USF Essex 1799 by Rossr - Model Shipways - 1:76

[RossR]

Until recently I assumed I would build my Syren next, but I think I felt a little burned out on rigging with my Frigate Diana so I decided to go with the Essex instead.  I was drawn to this kit in large part from the details like the pumps, stove, and Binnacle.  I am looking forward to building those items.  I am also looking forward to building that allows the gun deck to be viewed though areas of the upper decks that are left open.  The instructions say that each builder can decide what portion of the upper decks to leave open.  I plan to leave as much as possible on one side of the ship open.  I think I will plank as much as I need to to support the deck features that are placed along the center of the ship, and leave the area between those features and the margin plank open.  I will leave the cannons off on the side of the ship that I left open  

 

 

As I get started, I am considering a few updates to the kit.  I am considering upgrading the blocks (used mainly for the guns), and possibly looking into finding someone to 3D print the gun barrels.   

 

After opening the kit and going through all the parts, if there is one thing that is disappointing, it is the quality of the cast metal parts.  The gun barrels will take a lot of time to file/sand smooth.  I am a little familiar with the process of die casting parts from a former job, and it is clear that the molds that are being used for these parts have outlived their useful lives.   

 

If model shipways ever wanted to rejuvenate their lineup of models, replacing these metal parts with 3D printed parts would go along way towards making these kits more modern.   

 

The model isn’t designed to have any decks below the gun deck, but the instructions do show an option of cutting away parts of the bulkhead former and certain bulkheads and adding some sections of deck below the hatches in the gun deck.  I am not sure how visable those decks will be, and I think I will skip this option. 

 

One other option that you won’t see if you look at the online instructions is the optional strongbacks.  The bulkheads have been cut with a slot on either side of the bulkhead former to accommodate a 5/16 inch x 5/16 inch piece of wood glued along both sides of the bulkhead former to help keep it straight.  I will add this option.

 

 

This model has 22 bulkheads spread over about 20 inches, so on average less than an inch between bulkheads.   This should provide a good framework for planking the hull.  I will need to be patient and be sure to fair it properly.   It took me at least two weeks on my NRG half hull, this model has two sides and more bulkheads, this process may take me a month.

 

I do have more confidence in successfully fairing the hull and planking the hull after the NRG Half Hull.  I can’t speak highly enough of this kit if you are struggling with planking.  I will expand my planking skills on this model by using the edge bending technique with the 1/16 x ⅛ inch planking material that is supplied with the kit.  

 

The bulkhead former comes in two pieces.  The aft section on mine had a slight warp in it so I soaked it in some hot water and used an iron for heat to attempt to flatten it. 

 

 

 

I put some weights on it to be sure it stayed flat.  

 

 

Those are 1.75 liter bottles of scotch.  Part of my tariff protection stockpile.   

 

I found that the slots in the bulkhead former are all a little bit oversized, so I have added shims to the slots.  I will need to sand a little bit to get a good snug fit.  

 

 

With 22 bulkheads, I will be spending a lot of time removing laser char so it might be awhile until my next post.  

[Ronald-V]

Good luck on your next journey!

[RossR]

I have glued the two pieces of the bulkhead former together and added some support pieces on both sides of the joint.    I left a gap in the support pieces to accommodate the strong back on each side of the bulkhead former.   

 

 

 

 

The rabbet strip is 1/16 x 3/32 basswood.  I preshaped the rabbet strip after soaking it in hot water for about 15 minutes.  

 

 

Getting it centered was a little challenging.  I used a small drop of CA at the bow to get it started in the center and then used Titebond to secure the rest of the strip.    At the stern I was successful with just Titebond.   

 

 

 

Adding the stern post, keel and stem is also a little tricky.   I used only Titebond because I needed a little working time to ensure it was lined up even with the bulkhead former.   The stern post and keel went on fine, but when I placed the stem against the keel, the bottom didn't create a straight line with the keel.  To get the bottom of the stem and the keel to create a straight line I needed to leave a small gap between the keel and the stem.  I will fill this in with some putty and it will be covered with cooper eventually. 

 

 

 

 

 

I also pinned the stern post, keel and stem to the bulkheads former to make it more secure.

 

The bulkhead former and bulkheads are laser cut from plywood and they have a significant amount of laser char.  More than I experienced with my previous Occre models.   The stern post, keel and stem are laser cut from solid basswood and I was happy to see there was far less char and it was easily sanded off these pieces.  

 

I have almost all of the bulkheads released and the char removed.   I will be starting to install them next.