Gjoa 1872 by Jond - 1:48 scale - Amundson's Cutter

[John Ruy]

36 minutes ago, Jond said:

The 4^th image shows starting the delicate job to paint the inside of the bulwarks and sides only of the ribs white,

Nice work on the Bulwarks. I like your method of aligning the scuppers. Better than drilling them out, after planking is completed. 👍 

[Jond]

John 

 

You need also to thank the Norwegian builders that chose it.  I think it would be very practical on a fishing vessel.   Think of all the mess while working and little holes by each rib and one trap door for fish guts on the typical Gloucester fisherman.   Perhaps this open slot means more water on deck when healing over in a blow, but the crew all wore rubber boots anyway.

 

[wefalck]

Well, this slot under the lowest bulwark-plank seems to have common feature on smaller vessels all around the Baltic and Scandinavia, particularly, when the water-way was more or less flush with the deck. I have seen many original vessels and models like this.

 

Another option would have been hinged freeing ports that were locked in fine weather with a latch. The freeing ports are essentially the lowest bulwark-plank divided into sections that are individually hinged. I will discuss this particular feature in the forthcoming post on my building-log for a Rahschlup.

 

In the 1870s seaboots commonly would not have been rubber although such boots seem to have been manufactured since the middle of the century. They were oiled leather, above knee-length and had either wooden or heavy leather soles with hob-nails. In the Arctic, rubber-boots would have been impractical, as the rubber becomes stiff and brittle, prone to cracking and also conducts heat much better than leather - cold feet guaranteed in spite of heavy woolen socks. 

[Jond]

Thank you wefalck for the incite to the slot. I am sure you are right about the rubber boots too. 

 

Let me introduce you to a famous Maine boot first made in 1912.   These are the L L Bean boots that even today are extremely popular.  We in Maine all where a version of them around here over the next several months. The lined ne for snow and the unlined are especially popular in spring. I will admit however our outside durations do not approach the conditions of these brave explorers or fisherman either.

cheers 

[Jond]

Gjoa 7. Complete rudder and bulwark "shelf"

 

This week I have been able to get a few things done. I am about the middle of this stage and planning for the next one.

• 1-4. these four view show getting replacement drill bits, so I can complete the last pintel, and the laying out of the tiller by scaling a drawing.  I have a few sheets of pear wood that are great for this type of detail work. The third and forth view show installation and  the trimmed-out transom. I keep learning the hard way how critical it is to stabilize things like brass strips when drilling tiny holes.  I have broken many drill bits.
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• 5 this view is a group of new poplar strips I milled to use for both the bulwark shelf and cap rails.  
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• 6-9 show the progress of the shelf
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• 10-11. these views show all the belaying pins are in and the steel rod shelf supports are going in.  I am thinking to keep the brass pins brass. I know they should be darker but I like the look.
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Next up will include the cap rails. And planning for deck furnishings
 

Edited December 6 by Jond
typo

[sheepsail]

1 hour ago, Jond said:

Let me introduce you to a famous Maine boot first made in 1912.

I make watch straps and other things from old leather Usually pipe organ leather.    So I see an image like this and say oooh look at the watch straps.

 

This is an actual advertisement from my copy of Dickens' Little Dorrit, was printed in 1855.

 

 

We have fun replicating this at the Dickens Fair.

 

-julie   (Who is pretending to build a model of the Forester,  While acting in the Dickens Fair at the San Francisco Cow Palace.)

 

Edited December 5 by sheepsail

[John Ruy]

1 hour ago, Jond said:

  I am thinking to keep the brass pins brass. I know they should be darker but I like the look.

Looking Great Jon,

 

I like leaving brass belaying pins brass, too. Helps highlight the details. Like rope coils. 😎

 

John

[Jond]

Julie

thanks for dropping by. nice connection to reuse of good old material.  I am sure there are many old LL Bean boots around

 

cheers

 

[Jond]

John

 

thanks for reminding me of all those coils to make near the end.  they are just like ratlines.   got to do it though 🥴

 

cheers 

[Jond]

8 complete rails and plan deck work

 

Thank you everyone for your likes.  It helps keep the fire burning.  This is a partial update to record completion of the cap rails and this phase…. “ the hull”  .  It’s kind of like topping out of a building.  I suppose i could get a miniature Xmas tree and set it on the rail.   I had a nice glass of Single malt and now we move on...

 

• 1,2,3 these images show the completion of the cap rails.  It was pretty straight forward, as I used the rest of the milled poplar and cut out three sections for each side.
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 Next up will be to complete the deck furniture but first I need to plan it out. I think there are three parts.  First all the stationary stuff, Then the mechanical stuff then all the rigging stuff that is best to get on deck or the rails early.

 

• 4 I scaled the 1950 Model Shipway deck plan using TurboCad then cut it out to lay on deck. I then used light pencil lines to mark where things will go. I then will be using this plan and the long cross section to get dimensions.  
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• 5,6,7 these views show the progression of making up blocks to represent the stationary element.  Some of these I will trim down build back up with cladding.
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• 8-9 are just further along as the cap rail is now all painted and the 10 stationary deck pieces are laid out with some early shaping. I see in the photo I have a few more of the iron brackets to add in as supports for the shelves too. I need to get them done before setting any deck stuff.  None of this first phase includes the mechanical equipment.  That is a tough phase to follow as I quickly leave my comfort zone trying to make chains to actually fit on wheels etc.  I am thinking about it though as I look for material.
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All for now.