Duchess of Kingston 1798 by Glenn-UK - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Commission Build

[RolandR]

It is more a tutorial than a building log. As a beginner, I really appreciate it. It answered a lot of questions I had.

Thanks.

[Geordie Tyne]

3 hours ago, Glenn-UK said:

I think the handle looks OK. Should I paint the quoin black, thoughts anyone?

I like the contrast of the black handle and bare wood of the quoin. However you are the captain in charge, so ignore me and go with what you think will suit best. Judging by your previous builds, whatever you choose to do will look great.

 

I am currently trying to figure out the fittings and sizes for my ships guns, so seeing the work you are doing with yours is proving really informative.

 

Regards

 

 

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 12 (15th – 18^th Nov 2025)

 

Task 31 – Second Planking Preparation

Before commencing with adding the planks there was a bit of background work required. I had decided to use a 4-butt shift pattern for the second planking. With reference to the information contained in Longridge's book Anatomy of Nelson's Ships I created the following plan contained in the attached pdf file.

001 4 Butt.pdf

 

This a sequence that repeats and works as follows:

a) First plank has been positioned with the reference bulkhead

b) The second plank start point is then 2 bulkheads to the right of the first plank.

c) The third plank start point is then 1 bulkhead to the left of the first plank.

d) The forth plank start point is then 1 bulkhead to the right of the first plank.

e) the firth plank start point is then 2 bulkheads to the left of the first plank.

f) Repeat the above sequence a) to e)

 

When looking at both @James H and @DelF build logs it appeared that the first three planks were not tapered around the bow. I test this out and concluded I could follow suit without any issues.

 

When looking at the kit supplied Lime planks there is quite a bit of colour variation between them. Therefore as I proceed to fit the planks I need to colour match the planks with the bulwark as far as it practical, noting this becomes less of an issue below the waterline as the hull will be painted white.

 

Task 32 – Adding the first plank

After selecting the first plank it is test fitted in the rabbet and a line is drawn so it follows the curve of the stem post.

 

Following the information provided by @Chuck lateral bending method I set about working out the central point of the U-shaped bend. The plank brushed with water and clamped. A hairdryer was then used to apply heat.

 

The first planking layer (right and left sides) was then glued to the hull.

 

Task 33 – Adding the next two planks

It was then a case of cutting planks to the required lengths for the 4-butt shift pattern and gluing them to the hull.

 

Task 34 – Garboard Plank

Noting that 24 planks / side would be required, and as 3 planks had already been fitted below the bulwark I thought it would make sense to add the garboard plank which would then leave 20 planks to fill the gap. This would make it easy to split this area into 4 planking bands, width 5 planks per band.

 

I took my time to get the required shape around both the the stem and stern post. I also worked out the required plank start positions for the 4-butt shift pattern, based on pattern created by first three planks.

 

Photos

In the photo below I an checking if three full width planks can be fitted around the bow, not colour matched.

In the next photo I am checking the colour match of first plank with the bulwark, it looks good.

The next photo shows marking the plank for rabbet so it follows the curve of the stem post

The next photo shows the central lateral bend point, which is where the widest gap is

Lateral bending of the first plank (left and right)

First plank has now been fitted, and the 4-butt joints can be seen

Checking the second plank fits, also checking it is aligned with the required bulkhead line.

 Cutting planks method. This tool give a nice shape cut. I do give the cut edges a very light sand.

Second planking layer completed, I am using acetone and water to clean the planks to remove excess glue. The 4-butt pattern can be seen.

Third planking layer completed, so far so good.

 Garboard plank - stem post

Garboard plank - Stern post

Edited Tuesday at 06:54 PM by Glenn-UK

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 13 (19^th Nov 2025)

 

Task 35 – Banding Preparation

After fitting the first 3 full width planks and the garboard plank I was left with a gap of 80mm to fill at the midships, which would require 20 x 4mm planks to fill.

 

I think it will be a good idea to split the infill area into 4 bands, with each band comprising 5 planks.

 

I took some measurements and then calculated the planking requirements. as follows:

 

Stem Post

BK 1

BK 2

BK 3

BK 4

BK 5

BK 6

BK 7

BK 8

BK 9

BK 10

BK 11

BK 12

Length To Fill

40mm

48mm

65mm

74mm

80mm

80mm

80mm

80mm

80mm

76mm

74mm

74mm

74mm

Band Width

10mm

12mm

16.5mm

18.5mm

20mm

20mm

20mm

20mm

20mm

19mm

18.5mm

18.5mm

18.5mm

Plank width

2mm

2.4mm

3.3mm

3.7mm

4mm

4mm

4mm

4mm

4mm

3.8mm

3.7mm

3.7mm

3.7mm

 

I made a couple of paper templates, one for the bow area and one for the stern area. I added the required curve to the bow section template which will help with the lateral bend.

 

Using a spare piece of 4mm planking material I made a bow plank (from bulkhead 4 to stem post) and a stern plank (from bulkhead 8 to stern post) using the above table measurements and templates as guides. I was happy with how they both looked when test fitted.

 

The test planks, when held against the hull, both appeared a good fit, therefore I can now proceed with planking the first banding section.

 

Photos

The paper template is being checked in the photo below. I took my time to get the right shape for the top edge. The bottom edge and drawn planks could have been neater.

The stern template. I did make a hash of cutting the bottom edge.

I also did a test the template around the stern counter as would like to fit two planks to the outer edge before the planking has to rotate so it terminates with the bottom edge.

I did purchase a set of proportional dividers to help with tapering the planks. It has been correctly set in the photo below.

Test lateral bending of tapered bow plank, using the template as a guide.

Test fit of the test plank, looks OK, noting it was not colour matched.

[Glenn-UK]

Build Log - Day 16 (20^th – 22^nd Nov 2025)

 

Task 36 – Adding one planking layer

I thought I would share, in detail, the method which I am now using to fit the second layer of planks.

 

Step 1 – Creating a paper template for the lateral bend

A piece of paper is folded underneath the plank. I then use a pencil to trace the required bend, as shown in the photo below. Next I cut along the pencil line and this becomes the template for the lateral bend.

Step 2 – Tapering the plank

Using the various bulkhead measurements taken when creating the banding areas, I use my digital callipers to mark the required widths. You will note, in the photo below, I also have a guide plank to indicate the positions of the various bulkheads.

 

Step 3 – Lateral bend of the plank

Once the taper has been applied the plank is then laterally bent. The paper template is used to set the required curve, as shown in the next photo. Water is brushed on to the plank and a hair dryer is used to apply the heat.

Step 4 – Test Fit

Once the plank has been bent as per the template it is test fitted. As can be seen in the next photo the plank sits flush with the previous plank without any force added. The plank is then cut to the required length as per the 4-butt shift pattern.

Step 5 – Gluing the plank

Glue is applied to the hull, using the following attachment to the super glue container. This attachment has proved to be an invaluable asset in this respect.

I brush some water on the underside of the plank to aid the adhesive with the ca glue. The plank is then carefully fitted, working from the stem post. I am happy with how this plank (still damp) looks, once glued in place.

Step 6 – Midships Plank

The midships plank is cut to size, a slight bevel is applied to the top edge. Glue is then added to the hull before the damped plank is fitted. The red arrows shows the 4-butt shift joints.

Step 7 – Stern Post Plank

This is the plank that takes the most effort to fit. With the plank in position, as shown below, the underside is marked where the sharp bend to the lower stern counter pattern starts.

The bend area is then wetted and a bend applied. I usually start with a gentle manipulation with my hand to get the start of the bend. Next I use a bottle to complete the task. A hairdryer is used when the plank is being bent around the bottle.

The bent plank fit is then checked, as shown below. The bend looks OK. The pencil dot is where the plank need to terminate with the stern counter.

Using the pencil mark on the plank I use the following template to cut the correct angle.

The next photo shows the stern post plank prior to fitting.

The dampened plank is then glued in position. This time I work from the stern post to the midships to ensure I get a good join with the stern counter. Apart from one plank (red arrow), where I worked from midships to stern counter when the plank was fitted, I am really pleased with how the joints with the stern counter looks.  

As can be seen in the final photo of this post the remaining stern counter gap to fill is exactly one full planks width which is ideal.