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Posted

The kit ought to arrive sometime next week from Spain. It will be my second build.

My first build was a small trawler-type boat, a cheap Chinese product, built about seven years ago. It turned out okay.

I had a bit of a fallout with this Beagle model after I ordered the kit. Apparently, I found out that the kit plans do not follow the redesign of the ship as a survey ship, at the time Charles Darwin sailed with her. There are many Beagle plan versions, and there is still some doubt that the latest version was even drawn correctly. All this did not satisfy the little perfectionist part of me. So, I decided to build this kit in an ad-lib fashion.

Heck, I might even cut the hull out and place the ship in a diorama (afloat, so to speak). Leave the more elaborate planking experience for another kit.

 

While waiting for the kit to arrive, I have started researching the HMS Beagle and Darwin. The more I learn, the clearer my vision for the diorama becomes.

I am preparing by gathering reading materials and tools for model building.

Today I ordered some tools, which will take a few weeks to arrive. I also bought timber from a local hardware store for the base to build the kit on.

I can hardly wait to get started.

 

Beagle5bBaseboard.jpg.c1e48b859bfb0b83a79c78852fc9478c.jpg

The base is the size of the diorama: 900 x 430mm.

 

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, LoydB said:

That base really brings home how freaking huge that is. Following.

Thank you @LoydB. I also realised that it may be a bit too big for the little space I have at home. 

 

The kit will be arriving soon, and I need to prepare a model base for it before I start building. My main concern was how to make a display case with the available materials. I want to be able to remove the model from the case if needed. Also, I need extra space around the model base for the display case. That is, the display base will be larger than the model base. Therefore, I had to compress the surrounding space around the model, which means the diorama will be smaller.

 

Please excuse my mud maps. I don't want to waste unnecessary time redrawing them.

Display Case c new.jpg

Display Case cb.jpg

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Display Case cd.jpg

Edited by Tecko

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted

I just cut, from plywood sheets, both display and model bases.

Both are slightly warped. What plywood sheet isn't? I will screw them together with each warp opposing the other. Hopefully, that will make a flatter worktop for making this model. 

image.jpeg.1b927603087872c62e96846bbba52796.jpeg

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted

Since this build will be adlib, I am free to do what I like with the diorama part.

As a diorama, I always wanted to create a Kracken attacking a fishing boat, or more famously, a sailing ship.

My initial thoughts regarding the Beagle (see bottom-right, the easier version).

MSW9.jpg.48426cf5dc65f95959467a98d010dc50.jpg

Shortly after making this sketch of a Kracken attacking the HMS Beagle, I came across the following information about Darwin's species collections.

Beagle10a.jpg.9fccc2543fa6455d0f3cb546ea44accc.jpg

Beagle10b.jpg.613cc88c63998b9ff94a2432535973c9.jpg

The reason Darwin favoured this specimen above the rest is that it can change its colour pattern to blend into its surroundings.

Well, well, well! Last night, I came across an old movie on YouTube, and it was in colour...

Itcamefrombeneaththesea.jpg.4a1e7fbc4bc4a7801a3a5aace3115828.jpg

You don't see much of the Kracken until 55 minutes into the film, and onwards. It's quite good.

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted

Just playing around to see if I will have plenty of room to include a kraken that is pulling the ship towards it.

DisplayCasecwidthangledoctopus.jpg.238cfe38c7a227c85a23faacbc22a5c3.jpg

There is plenty of room. 

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted
27 minutes ago, vvvjames said:

Shaping up to be quite the unique build log! Excited to follow along.

Thank you, vvvjames.

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

  • The title was changed to HMS Beagle by Tecko - OcCre - 1:60
Posted
3 hours ago, ccoyle said:

The basic OcCre kits are nice, and they look good built straight from the box, but there is also plenty of scope for upgrading if you feel so inclined.

Thank you, ccoyle, for the tip.

Yes, I believe many have upgraded by adopting a scratch-build approach to certain parts of the ship/boat. They seem to know what the boat ought to look like.

However, I would rather do such a thing once I gain some more knowledge and skill about building model period ships.

In the meantime, I will do some slight modifications to this model in a free-style way, building without fear of messing up what is expected to be accomplished. 

 

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted

Well, right from the start, I put the cart before the horse and got all confused along the way. I missed the page of instructions that shows images of parts with their part numbers.

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I have now decided to number the parts as I need them. Some are too small to be numbered directly.

I forgot how quickly a tabletop can get cluttered up without doing anything yet.

HMS-BeagleBuild2a.jpg.d4cd1448f8c9a68d1301557122c0b37c.jpg

A part of me is saying, "Oh yeah! Wait till you start building".

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted
6 minutes ago, vvvjames said:

I did the same thing on my OcCre build, only found that page halfway into things, I ended up being lucky that everything was put where it needed to be😂

Ha ha. Thanks, vvvjames. Perhaps it was not luck, but you have calculated insight.

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted

While researching how other builders followed OCCRE's instructions, at times, the deck was not flush with the tops of the bulkheads. I think the problem here is that some of the bulkhead slits are too long and drop into the spine too far.

 

So I decided not to follow the instructions in this case. Instead, I am going to use the deck as a template jig, and have the bulkheads fit flush to the deck before glueing. But first, I need to draw guidelines on the spine to ensure that the bulkheads will be 90 deg. The following photos show what I mean. I have not yet applied any glue, but when I do, I will use superglue to spot glue the bulkheads all straight and flush. Then, when all looks okay, I will use wood glue as welding-runs.

HMS-BeagleBuild3a.jpg.7161070b09cbbc0d5c4869684a1fbcc6.jpgHMS-BeagleBuild3b.jpg.db6d9177f8a3311c0977ac132d80869b.jpg

HMS-BeagleBuild3c.jpg.8d19a20909704537f7adf0f6f9a3d85c.jpg

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted

Started planking my first deck. I did not do it as the pros would, but I guess I would have if I were scratch-building.

HMS-BeagleBuild4a.jpg.c4dcb4ca30111eec4c0ab1e83047e0a9.jpg

I am using glass, with flat bottoms, as weights. Got them at a secondhand shop. PVA glue doesn't stick to glass.

HMS-BeagleBuild4b.jpg.54730a517de53791778c644ec1db39d3.jpg

HMS-BeagleBuild4c.jpg.60da060d75b9544865f84764c7226b30.jpg

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted

As I was planking the deck, I got to thinking that at this stage I could use the offcuts to fill in the rest of the deck.

To do so, I need to know where the plank needs to end. I found (online) a five-plank shift method of planking.

I temporarily marked the planks as per the plan instructions. I want to slightly sand down the deck before marking out the joints and fasteners (again).

HMS-BeagleBuild5.jpg.14a21fa36194b7c5f5f05349abc94369.jpg

I cut off all the overhang with a scalpel. But I erred to the idea of using the scalpel to cut out the enclosed slots. Instead, I drilled them out and then used needle files. 

To gauge how much to file, I used the pieces that were to be placed into those slots to get a neat fit.

I shortened the extended drill bit to stiffen the drill, so it won't wander if I overlap a hole.

HMS-BeagleBuild5a.jpg.0da0a466035321d836175f0b745354b7.jpg

HMS-BeagleBuild5b.jpg.5c3ffd6b2cc7de8c3ab413cb14e01b3c.jpg

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Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted

This model will have several lights. Six of them will be mounted into the deck. I will be using 3mm dia clear white light LEDs.
A seventh LED will be located in the wheelhouse area, but it will be red.

I plan to dim the LEDs down from their usual bright recommendations. I have seen too many models using the LEDs at full brightness. I cannot imagine using scale figurines wearing sunglasses in the middle of the night.

 

HMS-BeagleBuild6a.jpg.dff768c53a6d0e65d22ccdc5a94e00a2.jpg

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted

The-atlantic-fleet-at-moray-firth-reharding-deck-after-a-heavy-shoot-the-concussion-breaks-up-the-pitch-between-the-deck-planking-and-has-to-be-replenish.

HMS-BeagleBuild7.jpg.2df4031277cb78b9cefaeb1bfa31aa07.jpg

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted

Well, I was surprised to learn that I did not make an "Oops!" in post #20, in fact, I made a bigger oops by not realizing at the time that I needed to cut out another five slots.

HMS-BeagleBuild8a.jpg.315975d3b5c6eda37df18989f0bc08ad.jpg

Time to assemble bulkheads and deck... But I made another 'Oops!' The LED lights for the two hatches are directly over the spine. I had to cut access slots for when I need to mount them.

HMS-BeagleBuild8b.jpg.a7f45a537420b4bd7813994a980560ce.jpg

HMS-BeagleBuild8c.jpg.4af945eb22b7cd08b367fec65a70842e.jpg

After spot gluing everything snuggly together, I am now doing PVA runs, starting from inside corners going out...

HMS-BeagleBuild8d.jpg.2bca5837340be3177722ea6c8fca3cbe.jpg

 

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted

Just pulled up a chair and grabbed a glas of wine, hope the glas of wine will last throughout your build.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

Posted
1 hour ago, Nirvana said:

Just pulled up a chair and grabbed a glas of wine, hope the glas of wine will last throughout your build.

Thank you, Nirvana, for your response. You'd better drink that glass and bottle before it goes sour. 😆

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted

A strange thing is happening to me.

As I progress into the building of the HMS Beagle, I am growing fond of the boat as a whole.

My idea of a boat in water, as part of a drastic diorama, has become less appealing. Dioramas tend to steal the limelight, in this case, the boat.

 

I also want to see how I do in planking the whole hull, and not just to the waterline. 

I am sorry if my change of plan has disappointed you.

 

So, I am still going to exercise some liberties with the build, such as lighting.

__________________________________________________________________________________

I saw an odd approach to adding a diorama to a standalone model. Logically, it does not make sense, but for some reason, it looks okay. What do you think?

 

HMS-BeagleBuild9.jpg.3f4bfe021a32ce31befb5eb23720714b.jpg

 

 

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted
7 hours ago, vvvjames said:

Exciting switch! Looking forward to seeing the planking. As a display that picture you posted looks very cool; as a bonus if you decide you don't like it, you can just move the boat elsewhere!

Thanks, vvjames, for the great suggestion. Hmm.

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

Posted

Before I do any planking, I need to work out a few details about the interior wiring for lighting and how to alter or replace some of the kit pieces.

 

I want to have interior night lighting visible through the skylights, but there is a problem...

HMS-BeagleBuild11.jpg.002f18c507f9fc2ec6211c273aa567f5.jpg

Peter.

Current Build: HMS Beagle

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