HM Colonial Cutter Mermaid by olliechristo - FINISHED - Modellers ShipYard -

[ringbolt2013]

Darn fine work!!!

[egkb]

Looks grand to me Ollie but then again you would be more familiar with the 'original', perhaps you can rig up extensions if you are concerned?

I really like what you are doing with this build!

 

Eamonn

[Jim Lad]

I think I'd leave them 'as is', Ollie.  Any extension would be really obvious and new parts would require life threatening surgery.

 

John

[olliechristo]

Thanks guys.. I thought you may say that John.. I have already done it, couldn't help myself.. Some serious deliberating and I took on some serious surgery...  I surprised myself at how it went and happy with the result really.  Didnt take that long..I didnt cut or break anything i didnt want to.. I am a bit mad I know but at least i know it    Pics coming soon.. Havn't touched the transom yet but it will be an easier fix if i decide to do it.... Ollie

Edited January 16, 2014 by olliechristo

[olliechristo]

Okay, not a operation I would recommend, but she survived her keel lift   The things we do.. I am happy. Thought i may as well do the bowsprit socket while were here..

 

Some of my reasons for doing this op were - I feared that drilling the three 1.5 mm holes in top of keel with such little room was going to be nasty - The bowsprit sits next to keel and I think it would look strange if it was higher than keel top. It's angle needs to be about 5 degrees so siting it lower is not an option. 

 

I decided i needed to follow the grain of existing timber for splice and also managed to align cut to meet just before thinnest point at tip of the deck, no saw cut seen from inside hull.

 

I think it looks better, its a compromise and of course your always going to notice it if you look close, so i'm not going to focus on it, from a foot back it looks fine.. Phew.. Onwards ..  Ollie

Edited January 16, 2014 by olliechristo

[olliechristo]

Okay and some after shots.. and comparison

Edited June 5, 2014 by olliechristo

[cnemo]

Ollie,

 

Sorry for the late reply, mate, I've been out all day (since 5.30AM actually) and have only just got home.

 

I'll send you a PM in a couple of minutes of an illustration of deck planking.  It's copyright, so can't go here on the open forum.  I'm just waiting for my printer to warm up so I can scan.

 

John

Hi Jim, I have sent you a PM.

Jim is possible to have an electronic copy of the illustration deck planking?

I would like to use it for my Lady Nelson buil.

 

Thanks

 

cnemo

[olliechristo]

Okay, 3 hours added to build..   I have done my first 5, 2nd layer planks.. Another milestone.. They are not to be tapered till the 6th plank and i have decide to go for full length planks for ease of assembly.. 

 

I am quite enjoying the second layer planking in the thin strips.. that was an easy stretch though.. 

 

Also tidying up below deck, added some false tree nails and butt joints, thought i may as well. 

 

Ollie

 

 

[Jim Lad]

That was a nicely done fix, Ollie.

 

Watch the run of the planking - it'll get away from you if you're not careful.

 

John

[ringbolt2013]

I'm afraid I agree w/ John watch your run on the second planking it an be ruined real fast!.....Looks are everything on the second planking!

 

Tom

 

Great job on the stem extension...can't even see it!

[olliechristo]

Thanks guys, I was a bit dubious about doing 5 planks without tapering like the instructions say but i suppose it is done like this  because wales follow these planks.  Is this okay what i have done, John what do you mean exactly by "run of the planking"?

 

I want the cutout side of hull to planked as good as i possibly can but other side is being painted and coppered, so not so bothered, i think i should do the painted sides planking first..  Regards Ollie

Edited January 17, 2014 by olliechristo

[ringbolt2013]

Remember that paint is a coating and does not dry to a perfectly flat surface. It will actually show up flaws in the underlying surface. I know....scary thought.

Ships and boats that are wooden have a wonderful set of curves inherent in their design. It is a precious thing and not something to mess with, it can ruin an otherwise good model.  Ask the guys!  I screwed up a few by being in a rush.   Gently does it.

Please don't get mad at me, I'd love to see this come out good for you!

 

Tom

[Jim Lad]

Ollie,

 

The planking above the wale would normally be parallel sided, but below the wale the planking will vary considerably in width, being widest at the stern and narrowest at the bow.  The run in between will not be a simple taper, but the plank width will vary depending on the hull shape.  Typically, the planks will be widest at the stern, then narrow in and then become a little wider about midships and then narrow in again towards the bow, but the actual shape is very much dependant on the shape of the hull.

 

The 'run' of the planking is simply the line of each strake of planking along the hull.

 

In this photo of the replica of the schooner 'Enterprize' (1829) under construction in Melbourne, the 'run' or the shape of the lines of planking can clearly be seen.

 

 

John

[olliechristo]

Thanks guys, Tom you raise a very valid point. I didn't think.of that about the paint and I should know being in.construction and renovations

...

[ringbolt2013]

s'OK I forget stuff too but as you are a contractor I've helped build the real deal and you know that there are NO STRAIT LINES on any true sailing ship hull!

[olliechristo]

Hi all.. I was wondering if the garboard plank i fitted looks okay where it meets the keel at bow.. Should it angle down more?  Ollie

Edited January 23, 2014 by olliechristo

[olliechristo]

I should be more clear on what i'm actually saying.. This diagram from a tutorial shows it.. Looking at it again now i think its okay... Ollie

[egkb]

Hi Ollie, That is some very tidy looking planking you have there, I only hope mine comes out even half as well.. seriously!

 

Looking at the diagram, does the Garboard come to a virtual 'Arrow Head' type of point ? (where the point is in the centre line of the plank) your one looks a as though the point is at the right side of the plank  (looking at the boat as she is in the middle photo)

Please note that I am not in any respect knowledgeable on this, but just comparing the two I did something like that with my Bounty and the planking took a rather 'upward' run the further along I went, resulting in crowding.. this is before I knew about Spilling and the like!

What do you think?  If you judge it to be an issue it looks easy to adjust (as it may just be the 'point' that needs trimming) but as I said, that is some lovely planking! I will probably be beginning my own first layer shortly, and would very much appreciate you 'Casting a Cold Eye' over it.

 

Take Care Mate

 

Eamonn

[Jim Lad]

Ollie,

 

Looking at the top right photo it seems that your garboard strake is certainly coming too far up the stem, but in the lower photo it looks pretty good, so the photos aren't showing the true situation.  If you'd pay my air fair up to Queensland, I'd be happy to have a look for you!

 

Seriously, though, if it's showing any signs of any sort of upward sweep at the bow, then it's too high.

 

John

[olliechristo]

Ok John    Thanks Eamonn, that actually all makes sense to me,, appreciate your input.. I think this angle shows the situation better... I have drawn a new line and i think it will be best cut back to darker line..  Ollie

[egkb]

I'd say ye aren't too far away from ideal now Ollie, just didn't want to see you get into the same issues I had with my 'pre MSW discovery' Bounty! (She was nothing too serious, one of those builds where the various bits came weekly in the post and gave me huge fun and no small amount of head scratching due to very dodgy photo/text instructions, the photo examples were from about 3 different builds of the boat and contradicted each other!!   :mellow:   )

Result was some serious upward swept planks and lots of crowding, looks ok (from about 3 feet away) but I wouldn't show her to a proper boat modeller

 

Best of Luck Mate

 

Eamonn

Edited January 24, 2014 by egkb

[Jim Lad]

Looks like that new line is about spot on, mate!

 

John

[ringbolt2013]

Yup I'd say you were right on track! Measure, measure, measure take your time and lots of checking. It is difficult but rewarding!!!  Guaranteed!

[Kerry]

Hi Ollie

I have been reading and rereading part of your log, a first time build wow, I have learnt so much

you detail is very impressive thanks for sharing

Kerry.

[olliechristo]

Thanks John and Tom.. Kerry I am glad to hear my log can be of some help... Thanks for commenting.. 

 

  I have fitted second garboard plank and adjusted them to appropriate angles, pictures should show this.. You can see difference from first layer planking..

 

  I am really taking baby steps, working out planking layout and am making sure i dont finish short of a plank, my gap between top planking and garboard is 84mm which is 14 planks if the planks are 6mm wide like kit says they are, but they are actually around 5.7 mm, this is okay as i end up losing about 0.5 mm per 5 plank runs.. So i fall short about a third of a plank over the 14 .. I figure i will take a milli-shave off a few planks and end up where i need.  Best to be taking some off than ending with a gap i gather.. Regards Ollie

[Sailor1234567890]

The plank shape was dependant in a great part on what the builder had available at the time of construction. He would lay out his planks to make best use of the material on hand. I know of one famous shipwright (Larry Pardey) who planked his boat (Taleisen) starting with a triangular garboard. The garboard he used was made of the widest board he had. It was a (relatively) short board and only went part of the length of the keel. (Small vessel of 30 feet) and the first broad (plank next to the garboard) was also build like this. In begining his planking in this fashion, he was able to thin the remaining planks at the after end of the boat to use the narrower boards he had. Made planking the rest of the boat easier as well.

All this to say that lining off (deciding how each plank will go) when done well can make planking the hull much easier and allow the builder to better use the wood available to him. If he were building two identical boats, they may not be planked identically because wood isn't all identical. Lining off is an art. If well done, the boat looks great and the job goes well. When poorly done, the lines show up clearly and it can look pretty bad. Lapstrake construction will accentuate the poorly lined off hull.

Your hull looks great to me. Keep at it. I'm loving the progress on her.

[olliechristo]

Really interesting Sailor1234 .. Makes sense also...

 

I have forgot to add hours to log.. estimating 15 hours since last mention..

 

Just showing you the latest pics of the lines being created.. I have done some spiling, tapering, some wetting of timber to help bending in some areas...

 

Last photo. I am a bit concerned about what is the best way to finish planks, at the stern where they meet, you can see how i did the first layer planking..  Regards Ollie

Edited January 29, 2014 by olliechristo

[Jim Lad]

Ollie, you shouldn't need any stealers at the stern of a hull like this, unless you plan on using just the kit hull strips, in which case what you did on the first planking is the way to go.

 

In the actual ship the planks at the stern would have swept up the stern post in a nice curve, but that would, of course, need wider planks to achieve the shape.

 

The picture below shows the hull of the oyster smack 'Betty' undergoing repair.  The lower strakes of planking have a much more pronounced sweep than is usual, but you can see the principal easily.

 

John

 

[olliechristo]

Thanks John. The only stealers I plan on having are on the stern post itself. I can see where I went wrong on first layer..

 

The thing i was unsure of is where planks meet from either side of hull under rudder.. . After looking at your picture im thinking they are parallel.

Regards ollie

Edited January 29, 2014 by olliechristo

[Sailor1234567890]

You can also very easily see that garboard strake is very much triangular in shape, just as I mentioned in my last post here. It makes planking the hull up much easier. You can also see another facet of wooden ship/boat construction. The planking doesn't necessarily start at the bottom and work to the top or vice versa. You can start mid way and plank the hull in sections. In larger ships, this would allow several gangs of plankers to work at once. One gang might start at the top and work down, another at the bottom and work up. On particularly large ships, there may even be a third gang planking in the middle. They will meet part way and close up the last space with what is known as a "shutter plank". This was normally followed by a shutter plank party. Alcohol may be invovled.

A modern builder prefers to use shutter planks everywhere so he builds by planking every second plank then putting "shutter planks" between each of the already installed planks. Sounds kind of odd to me but it works for him.