Emma C Berry by cdrusn89 - Model Shipways - 1/32

[cdrusn89]

I have had this kit "on the shelf" since 2020 (the Parts lost is dated 10/2019) so it is about time I got around to actually building it.

 

This is my first attempt at a plank on frame kit so it will certainly be a learning experience and I have a second Berry kit on the shelf in case I mess this one up to the point of starting over.

 

Having read through the first few pages of the instructions I think it best to get the build board constructed first.

 

The drawing shows a pretty good rendition of what the build board should look like.

And I just happened to have a suitable piece of 3/4" plywood. So here is step one - mark the centerline of the build board.

 

 

Edited Tuesday at 02:38 PM by ccoyle
corrected log title

[cdrusn89]

Here is the keel support and its "feet" resting comfortably under some convenient weights while the glue sets. 

[JacquesCousteau]

Very interested to follow along with this build!

[Dr PR]

How about a picture of the vessel (photo, box illustration, drawing) so readers will know what you are building?

[cdrusn89]

Phil - here is a picture and a few words about the Berry.

[cdrusn89]

The write-up in the instructions says that the Berry was originally sloop rigged (one mast) but sometime later (probably before 1900) it was re-rigged as a schooner. 

Assuming I can come to some reasonably dimensions I am considering building my Berry as a schooner.

 

Here are several questions that immediately come to mind before I do anything that can't be easily undone:

1. Top masts, if so only the main or both masts.

2. How tall (heel to head) would the lower masts be? Some back of the envelope calculations would be about 50' for the main and 45' for the fore. The current main mast is 56' heel to head. Do these seem reasonable?

3. Mast locations - I am reluctant to move the fore mast and a preliminary examination of the plans would have the main mast just forward of the deck house between frames 16 and 17. Any other ideas?

4. Head sails - As rigged Berry has two head sails. To retain two head sails would seem (to me) to require a top mast on the fore mast which would also have one on the main since I have never seen a schooner with only a fore mast top mast. 

5. Measuring the sail area on the plans (and using the plan dimensions rather than converting to sq ft shows)

    Main sail = 169 square inches

    Top sail = 25 square inches

    Jib = 48 square inches

    Top Mast Staysail = 25 square inches

 

    Total sail area as modeled = 267 square inches

6. I am planning on looking at how much sail area I can get using mast heights of 50' and 44' and booms of 5' on the fore and 10' for the main (which would put the boom end just past where it ends now.)

 

    

Edited Tuesday at 09:58 PM by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Having reread the instructions on setting up the build board I decided to rework what I have already done. I looked to me like trying to layout the frame locations with the keel support glued down could easily (for me) be a source of error since it would required reproducing the lines on both sides of the keel support in two steps, once on each side. 

So I removed the keel support from the build board using liberal amounts of 99% isopropyl alcohol and turned the build board over to use a clean side.

 

After that I used the drawing to transfer the frame locations onto the keel which was already glued up and set.

Then I clamped the keel support which was held in place on the build board by angle blocks and a carpenter's square.

I transferred the frame locations from the keel to the keel support and then from the keel support to the build board. Then used another square to extend the lines onto both sides of the build board.

Except for one set of lines that got misplaced somehow every seemed to work out.

 

With the lines in place I could again glue the keel support to the build board.

While waiting for the glue to dry I glued one side of the frame clamp bar fixture.

Edited Tuesday at 09:57 PM by cdrusn89

[JacquesCousteau]

If you're interested in building it as a schooner, there's a very interesting build log that will probably be helpful:

There are photos online that will probably help with mast/yard proportions, as well.

 

[robert952]

This looks like an interesting model.  Out of curiosity, does the kit include material to build the work scaffold and other material as shown on the box cover?  That image does seem to show and interesting way to display the frames.  

Good luck. I'll be following along. 

[cdrusn89]

Robert,

The kit includes a bunch of strip wood (basswood) but I do not think the display shown on the box is included. There is no mention of a display base (nor anything that could be used as one) mentioned in the instructions although there are several reprints of the box picture in them.

 

I have the build board and the frame clamp bar and legs assembled and it place. i used small pins to attach the guide rails to the base board. 

 

On to the rabbit. I scanned in the outboard profile (it had to be split into two section my scanner is limited to 8.5 X 11) them used a glue stick to attach it to the keel. A #11 blade cut along the rabbit line and along the bearding line.

 

 

I removed the paper and used a shape pencil to highlight the bearding line. I used  #17 blade to cut vertically (at the stem) then the #11 to cut out a piece of wood that was roughly triangular. I used a series of chiesels, files and sanding sticks to get the rabbit cleaned up (basswood does NOT want to cut cleanly cross grain).

 

Once I got aft of the stem pieces, the bearding line is the top of the keel and the rabbit is roughly a 45 degree "slot" into which the garboard strake fits. I used a 80 grit sanding stick to remove the necessary material using the removal of the laser char to help keep track of the amount removed and where.

A note of caution - some will notice that the forward most piece of the keel assembly is missing in the photo above. It snapped of (luckily exactly at the existing joint while the keel was being manipulated to cut out the rabbit at the stem. I would wait to glue this piece and the the horn timber assembly at the stern until after the bearding line is cut. Neither piece is involved in the creation of the rabbit and both are tempting targets for disaster.

 

Unless I can figure out a way to "mirror image" the plans (or the pictures that I scanned of them) the port side is going to be a bit more difficult.

Edited Wednesday at 02:49 AM by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

Jacques,

Thanks for the link. I spent most of this evening going through the log - much to consider going forward.

[Capt. Kelso]

Have visited the exhibit at Mystic Seaport many times. There may be some helpful information available on their website:  - Mystic Seaport Museum-

 

Good luck with the build.

[yvesvidal]

12 hours ago, robert952 said:

This looks like an interesting model.  Out of curiosity, does the kit include material to build the work scaffold and other material as shown on the box cover?  That image does seem to show and interesting way to display the frames.  

Good luck. I'll be following along. 

Yes, the box includes additional wood that can be used to build the scaffolding and stands.

 

Yves

[cdrusn89]

Thanks Capt. It is a bit far from here to Mystic but I hope to get there this summer.

 

I stand corrected on the scaffolding and stands material. 

Rabbit is finished on both sides. or the port side I used another copy of the starboard side view and used an awl to pin prick the rabbit line then transferred the points to the keel. I used a pencl to fill in the line and cut as before noting that the bearding line is a consistent distance from the rabbit line.

 

I have the keel mounted on the keel support and it seems to b e pretty steady and down on the support except at the bow which I am not sure I can do anything about.

 

I am still considering how exactly to execute the installation of the frames but first I need to cut them out and clean them up. Not sure if I should cut them all out or cut them out as I go along. There is considerable discussion in the other build logs about whether or not to pre-bevel the frames. I am inclined to at least bevel the insides as that is (IMHO) more difficult to do once the framing is complete but i think it would be useful to pre-bevel the outside of at least those where the bevel is significant, like 1 - 4 and 20 - 25. 

 

Here is the keel on the support ready (more or less) for the frame installation to begin once I have a set ready for mounting.

Edited Wednesday at 04:44 PM by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

For now I am pre-beveling both sides of each frame - probably a bit less dramatic on the insides than the outside where i am trying to follow what is on the drawings.

 

I scanned in all the frame drawings then printed two more sets. From the first set I cut out the outlined frame and using a glue stick attach this to the frame. I use a Dremel sanding drum on as low a speed as the tool will provide to get close to thje line on the outside then use a sanding stick to get to the line. On the inside I pretty much just "take the edge off as I will need more "beef" on the back side to get the frame to lie flat for the next step.

 

With the frames beveled I use the other copy of the frame drawing to clamp the frame pieces (starting with frame one which is two pieces that do. not touch) to the drawing. ext I measure and cut a piece of 1/8" X 1/8" strip wood to serve as a "brace" between the two pieces of the frame. I used full strength PVA to glue the support to the frame pieces. 

 

Here are the first two frames clamped down with the support piece under the machinist squares which are weighting down the support pieces. I will let this dry overnight before attempting to install the first frames.

 

[cdrusn89]

After considerable "fiddling around" with the #1 frames after beveling and gluing a batten on them I have come to conclusion that this is not going to work (for me). IMHO after beveling the outboard side there is precious little surface area left to support a glued on batten that can withstand the necessary manipulation required to get it attached to the keel. And beveling the inboard side make clamping the frame down flat to allow gluing the batten on problematic.

 

Since I have another set of frames available (two kits for the price of one back in 2020 when I bought these) I broke out the other #1 frames and tried fitting them.

 

After even more fiddling around including pulling out the laser to find the center of the frame setter cross bar "no kidding" I "think" I have the #1 frames ready to attach to the keel.

 

Here is the cross bar with the centerline and the 19mm outer edges of the #1 frames based on the frame drawing in red.

As it turns out the top of the #1 frames are 103mm above the building board according to the drawing which is about 2mm above the top of the crossbar. The forward side of each frame at the bottom needs to be sanded back to clear the rabbit which is inclined about 45 degrees at the frame 1 location. There is no indication of this on the frame drawing.

 

Here is a shot looking aft with the two #1 frames clamped to the crossbar in what is my best approximation of where they will be glued.

The camera (iPhone 17) was as close to vertical as I get it to try and see that the two frames and keel form the same size triangle on each side. the Mk 1 eyeball may have to be relied on here as trying to measure with all the clamps and cross bar in the way is pretty difficult (for me).

 

And here is what the frames look like after the modifications necessary to get them to fit and not block the rabbit.

Now comes the task of actually gluing them onto the keel and then figuring out how to keep them there while working on the rest of the frames.

 

One method I saw in another build log glued spacers between the outboard ends of each new frame and the frame in front of it. I measured the spacing between frames, which should be a constant if the frames are spaced evenly which appears to be the case but it seems to vary by a mm or so from one frame set to the next. Maybe just the drawing where the lines are .5mm wide in places. 

 

I have to solve that problem but not until I have a second set of frames to install. 

 

 

 

 

Edited Thursday at 09:03 PM by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

The first two sets of frames in place.

 

I have since changed to clothes pins to hold the frame to the crossbar - less twist induced in the frame. With these clamps the bottom of the frame wants to not line up where it should on the keel.

 

Also I am going to have to add material to the bottom of the crossbar if it is going to continue to be useful to clamp the frames. By my measurement the top of the frames will be below the bottom of the crossbar by about frame 6 or 7. My measurement says the bottom of the crossbar is 93mm above the buildboard and the top frame 7 is supposed to be 90mm above the basebaord. 

 

Review of some other build logs shows (i think) that either the supports for the crossbar are lengthened for some reason or the keel support is shorter now.

 

All three of the build logs I looked at were from 2013 and the Parts list on my kit is dated 2019 so presumably this kit is "different" from those from earlier. 

 

I am going to add some more material to the crossbar before proceeding further.

Edited Friday at 10:28 PM by cdrusn89

[cdrusn89]

The first 5 frames in place - I am going to put some braces out to track that carries the cross bar to stabilize frame 5 since it is just sitting in the keel with at best a 5/32' square contact area.

[cdrusn89]

I had a really difficult time trying to get frame five glued down. There is very little contact area to work with. Finally I decided to add a floor to frames 5 and 6.

 

I cut a piece of the carrier sheet for the frames and cut/sanded/filed and checked that the keelson will fit in the slot before gluing the floor to the frame.

 

Here is the "revised" frame 5.

 

If this doesn't solve my problem, and it must be me as none of the other build logs mention this as a problem, I am going to cut the keelson just behind frame 6 and use this to hold frames 5 & 6 in place. I might even use some small wood screws (if I can remember where I put them) to help secure the keelson to the keel.

 

[cdrusn89]

While sitting around waiting for glue to dry I noticed an interesting contradiction in the instructions on the keelson.

 

On page 14 is shows the keelson with battens (not sure what else to call them) on both sides abreast the notch in the keelson that is to accept the mast. 

If the mast is going there it needs to have a tendon cut in the bottom to fit into the slot now formed in the keelson.

 

On page 20 it shows the mast going into the grove of the keelson without the battens shown on page 14.

 

At the moment I am inclined to leave the battens off as they do not seem to have a purpose and having looked through three of the other build logs no one else seems to have added the "battens" along side the keelson. One log even planked over the slot in the keelson but the pictures of the mast going in did not show how it fit below decks.

 

[cdrusn89]

The first seven frames are in place with frames 8 - 12 assembled and awaiting installation.

 

I adding floors to every frame instead of every other. I use the floor for frame n on my second set of frames as the floor for frame N+1 going on the model.

 

 

Edited 8 hours ago by cdrusn89