Seizing or whipping a line. Here is how I have done it.

[Modeler12]

I have made numerous seizings on the strop or line that goes around a block. The cannon riggings on my USS Constitution is one example. There are twenty-two guns with four blocks each. Lots of time to practice.

 

I put a short video clip together for those interested in my approach.

 

 

Of course, there are many other places where this seizing is used. The top of shrouds as they go around the mast is another one. There are also variations to the 'common whipping', but in all cases the idea is the same.

[Tigerdvr]

Thanks Jay, simple and clear.

Regards, Harley

[Modeler12]

Thanks Jay, simple and clear.

Regards, Harley

You know Harley, the biggest problem I have had with seizing is that the thread is always too thick.

 

I wonder if anyone have suggestions about where and how thin a thread we can get. I am willing to dye it if necessary. But that, of course, adds thickness.

I mentioned the cannon rigging, and now I remember that I did not seize the tackle lines for just that reason. I ended up painting the seizing on these tiny strops. The blocks were 2.5 mm.

[Geoff Matson]

Jay  Great tip as usual. That's what I am doing right now with my Conny.

[cor_f]

Very nice video Jay! Very usefull.

I've put something similar in my building log. Thats about making 'tackle blocks'; a large block combined with a small one.

(I'm not sure these are called that way btw.)

Best regards, Cor.

[Modeler12]

Thank you, Cor, for that comment.

Inderdaad, I believe when you combine a large block with a smaller one, it would still be called a 'tackle' (at least in the case you refer to), but you have to be careful, because most of the time you would not combine different size blocks in one rigging. The block size depends a lot on the size line used.

In the video I happen to use blocks that were way too large, but only to make it clearer what I was doing.

 

Have you ever been to Lelystad and seen the replica of the Batavia? Het is een van de replicatie schepen die ik nog niet gezien heb, maar ik heb wel het boek gelezen.

[edmay]

Hello Jay,many thanks for the demo,much appreciated and stored,have a great day,Edwin

[popeye2sea]

The tackle is the system of ropes running through the blocks, i.e.:  a block and tackle

 

Two blocks made up together in one strop is called a sister block.  In fact, an example of two unequal sheaves in the same shell was a fiddle or violin block.

[Modeler12]

I should have explained that when I referred to 'large' versus 'small' blocks, I was referring to the length of the block or more clearly the size sheave or wheel that is inside. Blocks with the same size sheave can be wider when they are double or triple blocks, and as Henry pointed out, when they become special configurations with two sheaves mounted above each other in the same block (a fiddle).

However, I have never seen a setup where a line runs through blocks of two different sheave sizes. A thin line in a large block could easily snag between the sheave and block wall.

[bhermann]

Jay - thanks for putting this together.  I have read descriptions of that technique several times over the past few years, but seeing it being done really helps clarify what is going on for me.

 

Thanks,

Bob

[Modeler12]

Jay - thanks for putting this together.  I have read descriptions of that technique several times over the past few years, but seeing it being done really helps clarify what is going on for me.

 

Thanks,

Bob

Hi Bob, I made one little 'hick-up' in the video. The loose end of the whipping thread should go through the loop after the seven or eight wraps. I jumped the gun in my narration and said to 'loosen the thread that is taped to the hemostat . . .'.

I did not change that and I hope it did not confuse you.

[bhermann]

 I jumped the gun in my narration and said to 'loosen the thread that is taped to the hemostat . . .'.

 

Jay - I noticed that the thread was still taped after hearing the words so I figured you were getting a little ahead of yourself.  Loosening the taped thread at that point would have left you with one hand too few!

 

Bob

[Monarch]

Hi Jay

 

This may sound a stupid question but what glue do you use when rigging as yours seems to leave no residue?

 

Glyn

[Modeler12]

Actually there is a bit of residue, but I try to use as little glue as possible. When I made the coils for the belaying pins I used a tiny drop of PVA or carpenters glue. I used to thin that with water, but not any longer.

For the whipping thread I use also a tiny drop of CA that has a bit of filler (to make it 'cap filling').

I know I should not do that, but I squeeze the excess glue away with my bare fingers and then wash my hands shortly there after. Never had a problem, unless I held it too long with the CA. I keep a bottle of my wife's 'nail polish remover' handy. It is a washed down version of acetone and as long as it is ok for women, it is ok for me.

 

Below are two pictures. One is the top of the gaff (spanker sail) and it shows not only a small kink in the line but the darker tone because of the adhesive. The second one is part of the ratlines. Here I used a needle and thread (rather than knotting) and again you can see traces of excess adhesive.

 

 

[Tony H]

Really useful, thanks for the tips

[Greyfox57]

Terrific tip - I have been struggling with seizing - thanks for sharing

 

Bob Marchetti

[wefalck]

I used to use for seizings this very fine two-ply silk/nylon yarn as used for mending ladies' 'nylons'. However, in our throw-away society, no one seems to bother with mending nylons anymore, so these yarns seem to have all but disappeared from the market. The next best thing is 16/0 size fly-tying yarn.

 

I start the seizing by pushing the free end through the space between the block and the rope, fixing it to one leg with a half-hitch. I continue with a couple of half-hitches around the splice and then wind up as many turns as necessary. The sizing is finished with a couple of half-hitches, making sure that each turn is pushed tight against the preceeding one.

 

For securing, I prefer matt varnish. If the the rope is supposed to be tarred, I may use semi-gloss black paint instead.

 

wefalck

[jud]

A half hitch will hold it, two will hold the world. There is a saying I heard years ago, similar to that, don't remember just how it went. I would bet that I heard it from an old Bow swan Mate on the Ammen who was killed in the 1960 collision. I have found that Half Hitches if kept under tension and the bitter end is secure, will hold almost anything.

jud

[wefalck]

Actually, for very thin yarn I often use the ratline-hitch. It tightens on itself and is very secure (which is why it used for the purpose the name indicates), but can be a bit fiddly to do with two tweezers in places.

 

wefalck

[riverboat]

Thanks Jay

Frank

[Modeler12]

I used to use for seizings this very fine two-ply silk/nylon yarn as used for mending ladies' 'nylons'. However, in our throw-away society, no one seems to bother with mending nylons anymore, so these yarns seem to have all but disappeared from the market. The next best thing is 16/0 size fly-tying yarn.

 

wefalck

I have not used it, but have ordered some thread from a fellow in the US who sells fly tying thread down to 8 denier. For nylon that translates to about .0031 inch (or .08 mm) in diameter. The 16 denier would be around .0044 inch. Search 'Badger Creek Fly Tying'.

Edited December 12, 2013 by Modeler12