Scottish Maid by JesseLee - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - 1:50

[JesseLee]

I like the paint color idea

[clearway]

Nice work- i built the same kit a couple of years ago. I didn't plank as per the instructions but planked her "properly" with a single skin which did lead lo an interesting time with the transom! i also squared off the masts at the doubling.

Keith

[JesseLee]

I saw someone else square the mast. I looks better that way. The crosstrees from the kit seem to be spaced too far apart & have too long of a space for the mast doubling, but without any real plans I don't know if they are right or not.

[guillemot]

OK, Here's what I was working from. This is a scan from MacGregor's "Fast Sailing Ships". I don't know how far apart AL suggest, but this should help, I hope.

Here's a shot of my foremast doubling. I'm not going to guarantee that it dead right, particularly the top (I don't know if she had a top or just cross trees.

Certainly though, the mast was square from the cross trees to the mast top. and the sides, lower down, would be flattened to take the cheeks.

Edited April 5, 2014 by guillemot

[JesseLee]

Here is how the crosstrees fit that the kit supplied. Just doesn't look right to me.

 

[guillemot]

Hi,

There should be 'cheeks' under the crosstrees which support them.

Sort of like this-ish

Incidentally, I think I made mas head a bit short...c'est la vie. Here's a link to nice shot, probably have to scroll down, of the mast head of a 1/24th scale Brig o' war. but it's a good clear shot and shows the squaring off etc. to good advantage.

HTH,

F

[JesseLee]

Yes, they haven't been added on yet. This is just a dry fitting ahead of time to see how everything fits together. Look at how much space there is from the inside edge of the crosstree & the mast pieces on each side. Shouldn't they touch?

[guillemot]

Yes, the upper mast has a square bottom bit, then gets its corners chamfered and is round as it goes through the mast cap. Which is why, if you're making your own masts, you start with square sectioned wood. It's not terribly difficult to do, you'll find tutorials all over the web for it.

[JesseLee]

Still feeling rough but working a little bit during this down time.

 

Well, it was not an easy decision but historical accuracy won out. Don't know if I will leave the bottom like it is or if I will pain it too. Looks ok like it is.....

[themadchemist]

Nice look. I didn't think I'd like the paint but the contrast with the wooden lower is quite striking.

I think it looks perfect as is, but that just an opinion.

The wood from a distance almost gives it a coppered look.

 

She turning into a real beauty Jesse. Nice job.

By the way, what type of finish did you use on the wood? It really made the wood glow, whatever you used.

[JesseLee]

I used satin varnish- 3 coats, lightly steel wooled

[aliluke]

I'm with Keith

That looks really sleek and you could almost read the below waterline area as copper. The contrast shows her lines beautifully. Go for it as is, is what I'd say!

[guillemot]

I agree. Looks lovely!

[Sailor1234567890]

I agree, looks good. Won't weather to a nice green tarnished copper look but it will always look slightly coppery as mentioned already. Great job. I love this schooner.

[guillemot]

You could always 'weather it' .....

[JesseLee]

I was trying to read up on weathering ship models last night. Found a lot of discussion but not real instructions on exactly how to do it.

[JesseLee]

Just realized I left 2 pics out that should have come befire the last one showing the marking of the waterline & masking it for painting.

 

[themadchemist]

Hey Jesse

I see you broke down and purchased that VERY Expensive and high technology water-line marker

 

Necessity is the mother of invention, NICE Idea. 

[themadchemist]

It reminds me of the story of how NASA spent millions to develop a ball-point pen that would write in the zero gravity of space.

The Soviet space program used a pencil.

[JesseLee]

I actually got the idea here on MSW somewhere

[riverboat]

Just went thru your  log Jesse...... you've got a real nice build going on. A friend of mine gave me this same model, one day I'll give it ago.

I'll be using your log as a guide, so hang in there :P

Frank

[guillemot]

I was trying to read up on weathering ship models last night. Found a lot of discussion but not real instructions on exactly how to do it.

I know what you mean. It's so often over done as well. Personally, I think the black above and varnished wood below, or if you want to paint it, a chrome oxide green wood do very nicely. Oddly enough I was reading about a Welsh shipbuilder who always painted his ships green below the waterline. So there's a precedent.

[SGraham]

A styrofoam cup! Why didn't I think of that? Thanks for posting that photo.

 

Steve

[JesseLee]

Thank you Frank.

 

guillemot, would any light greenish color do if I don't have chrome oxide green? Just as a very light watered down wash?

 

Steve, I got the idea from one of the many discussions here on MSW somewhwere

[guillemot]

Chrome Oxide is a medium, rather earthy green. There's a thumbnail here link. Here's a pic of a model of Pride of Baltimore, with a nice green bottom.

HTH

F

[themadchemist]

Copper oxidizes in stages. First brown like a penny which is a formation of copper oxide, over time the surface will react with the CO₂ in the air and form a copper carbonate, think statue of liberty. Many don't realize she is copper. The copper carbonate is actually a protective coating.

Under the salty sea I don't know how well the carbonate would form but from pictures I've seen the usually have that greenish cast.

 

Personally though, since she most likely wasn't coppered and because the wood is so gorgeous, I'd leave it as is. But that my opinion.

 

I wonder if anyone has ever attempted simulated toperdo worms. Drill holes, cook spaghetti and let it dry wiggly, then glue in the hull holes. ICK

[guillemot]

 

I wonder if anyone has ever attempted simulated toperdo worms. Drill holes, cook spaghetti and let it dry wiggly, then glue in the hull holes. ICK

That's just sick

[themadchemist]

Just for reference, here is copper carbonate.
https://www.google.com/search?q=copper+carbonate&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=z6VGU87jHdDw2gWu0IHICw&sqi=2&ved=0CDIQsAQ&biw=1191&bih=710

Before the invention of organic pigments, minerals were used as pigments in paint. The benefit of doing this was the ease of reproducing color.


Chromium forms many oxidation states with many colours. Cr³⁺ is ok, but Cr⁶⁺ is carcinogenic. Here wiki shows its many colors.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromium

[themadchemist]

I agree guillemot, that would be discussing but I recall some one weathering a build on MSW and putting barnacles on the hull.

[themadchemist]

Of course the Scottish Maid never sail south into more temperate waters so the torpedo worm issue wouldn't be a problem, which is why she most likely wasn't coppered.

I would think coppering was a VERY expensive undertaking and was done out of necessity only, but that's just my opinion based on a very small amount of study.