HMS Victory by Glenn-UK - Caldercraft - 1/72

[Glenn-UK]

Slow progress as I wait for glue to dry as each of the gun port strips are attached to the hull assembly, here is a couple of pictures for first part of gun port strip 271 starboard. After this was clamped I decided to remove the quarter gallery pieces as I can start to dry assembly and adjust pieces as necessary.

 

[Jerry]

Nice going, Glenn. 

You're work is steady and excellent.  The gun pot strips look like thay are right where they belong.   You definitely seem to know what to do and should be able to make quick, good progress.  Best to you,

Jerry

[Glenn-UK]

Just a quick update, no pictures as I have left my phone at work - dooh

 

Anyway starboard gun port strip 272 has now been installed, glued and clamped in sections. Will start with port side tomorrow night so should be ready to start first planking at weekend.

 

In Keith Julier's New Period Ship Handbook he suggested planking in two section with butt joints around the central bulkheads so you were only having to bend one end when fitting to hull. Did anyone follow this advice? If not what is best approach to fit as one piece, start centrally and work forward to bow and the aft to stern, shaping and bending as necessary before installation.

Edited January 22, 2014 by Glennard

[Jerry]

Hi Glenn...

 First of all good going with your progress;  I look forward to the photos.

 

 I don't recommend Julier's method nor do I recommend starting in the middle of the hull and working towards both ends. First of all you'll end up with a vertical seam going up and down or it'll look like a deck if you stagger the ends.  I planked from bow to stern and had no problems.  I bought a length of 2"  of PVC pipe which I capped on one end and put a screw end on the other long enough to hold the planking strips. See attached photos.  I soaked the strips in water for about a couple of hours and I didn't break one strip in bending them.  I didn't do any shaping before gluing on the strips.  I used push pins to hold the first planking in place since the holes from the pins would never be seen as they will be covered up with the second planking.  I used push pins also on the second planking below the water line as the copper plates cover those pin holes.  By using CA glue I didn't need pins for he second planking above the water line.  I just held the strip down until the CA set.  I hope this is helpful.

 

Jerry

Edited January 22, 2014 by Jerry

[Ensign]

Hi Glenn,

 

I am now well into the first planking of my Victory, this is the method I use. I try to plank as near to the way ships were actually done as possible as I think this produces a better result for second planking, and requires less sanding and filler. I plank from bow to stern cutting the planks to fit halfway on the bulkheads at the ends ie: each plank butt joints on a bulkhead. I cut the planks to about 150 mm lenghts or so, such that they sit on a bulkhead. Each plank is then tapered to size and in my case steam bent to fit if necessary. I would strongly suggest working the bow and stern separately, they are the most difficult planks to fit. Read the tutorials on planking they are a great guide.

 

Gary

[Glenn-UK]

Thanks Jerry and Gary.

I would think starting at bow end makes most sense.  The butt joints would not show as they are hidden by the second layer of planking.  I plan to use wood glue and pins. I have a pin pusher which I used to aid the gun port strips installation. I also have 2 boxes of the colour headed pins. I will try both and see which one is easier to use, I'm more inclined to use pin pusher at moment. Not sure if I will soak planks or use my plank bender, again I will experiment with both to see which is easier. I would like to think the plank bender will be best for this ship.

[Shipyard sid]

Hello Glenn

Good luck with which ever way you go. I did my first planking with butt joints and staggered the joints, plus widened the bulkhead at the joints if you follow. If you use pins set you pin pusher so the heads of pins are proud so you can remove them. I very rarely soaked the strips at all, I only used a strip bender.And let the strips go were they want to go, don't twist them in to position them. DAVID

[Glenn-UK]

Hi David

Thanks I was looking at adding stealers, half stealers, drops etc. as necessary, as the planks will run along the natural path.

 

I do think staggered butt joints is the better way to go at the moment.

 

I know all about leaving pin heads free, as I didn't on my first boat build and it took an age to remove them all. My pin pusher does have an present depth adjustment, its just a matter of feel. I tend to get the pin started with the pusher, and then use my trusty pin hammer to finish off.

 

Glenn

[Glenn-UK]

I have started gluing the port side gun port strip 272 tonight, which like the starboard side, will be done in 3 or 4 steps, so I can use my available clamps to the full. Should be completed tomorrow evening so I can start with the 1st planking at weekend

 

Not sure how much time I will get as eldest son moves house tomorrow so I may be on house DIY tasks, or looking after the Grandkids. The eldest grandson is 3 years old and loves sneaking in to the shipwrights office, I'm told he was very impressive on Wednesday, with his wonderful comment WOW!, what more can I ask!

 

Whilst I wait for the glue to dry here are some pictures of the gun strip 272 assembly from start to current status.

 

Starboard gun strip 272 Stern

 

Starboard gun strip 272 Stern close up, showing alignment is correct

 

Starboard gun strip 271 / 272 slight bump on bow, but this will sand out without to much effort.

 

Starboard gun strip 272 completed

 

Start of port side gun port strip 272

 

Gun ports are all clear of the bulkheads which is good news, gun port support strips installed on all gun ports to aid the lining process later on in the build, which can be seen in some of the above photos.

Edited January 23, 2014 by Glennard

[Patrick Haw]

Hi Glenn,

 

Coming along nicely.  Slow and painstaking, but worth the effort.  Don't worry about the slight bump in the gunport strips as they curve around the bow.  I think everybody has experienced them.  You're right, filling and sanding and everything will be just fine.  Keep up the good work.

 

Patrick

[Jerry]

Hello Glenn...Looks like very nice work to me.  You're really moving now and it seems that you'll be planking in a day or so.  Good to see how nice you're doing.  Best,

Jerry

[Glenn-UK]

Next section glued and clamped, will have to let dry until morning, I may clamp next section first thing in morning before work so I can then finish when I get home from work - well it sounds like a plan! Here is a couple of new photos.

 

[Mick_S]

Hi Glenn, following your build with interest as I aspire to the same kit one day. I am currently at an early stage with the Caldercraft Granado but a lot of the techniques and decisions are similar. One question (and apologies if it's a daft one as I'm quite new to all this) is there not the option of leaving the pins in on the first planking..? They could I am sure be tapped flush with the wood and then covered by the second planking layer..? Might even add some strength..? Like you, my pin pusher has no depth stop and I find it's really easy to push the pins home rather than just part way.

 

Regards

 

Mick

[Glenn-UK]

Hi Mick

I think you will find you need to remove the pins before you sand the hull.

 

Glenn

[Kevin]

Glen - just found your log, now catching up on yours and all the other victory builds going on

[Glenn-UK]

Hi Kevin

Thanks for the message, I'm at a very earlier stage, only 30 hours into the build, due to start first planking tomorrow!

 

I have enjoyed looking at your build log, it nice to see what everyone else has done.

[Jerry]

Hello Glenn.  Just a note to emphasize your advice to Mick about leaving pins in the hull.  There'll be plenty of sanding and can you just see the metal sparks flying?  LOL  Have fun,

Jerry

[Glenn-UK]

Whilst waiting for port gun strip 272 strip glue to cure, I decided to test plank bending with tool.

First I marked the length of the bend and marked every 10mm to identify when I wanted to use the tool. This gave a reasonable bend but I felt it need more so added a second set crimps between the first set of crimps. This seemed to do the trick. I also trimmed plank so it would sit on bulkhead near centre of hull.



As per Dave's (Shipyard Sid) advice I also added some additional support strips on the butt joint contact area.



I think I will need to make one more adjust to starboard strip 272 as I have just noted the strip is sitting a bit proud on a couple of the bottom bulkheads around bulkhead 2 & 3. A spot of glue and use of clamp should do the trick.

Edited January 24, 2014 by Glennard

[Mick_S]

Thanks for the feedback Glenn and Jerry, I'll assume it's not the done thing..!!

 

Plank bending looks like it's given good results; the only thing to be careful of is that the crimps can be weak spots depending on how the wood is stressed afterwards.

 

Regards

 

Mick

[Glenn-UK]

Hello Mick

With my last boat build I bent planks by soaking which was fine and Jerry' s plank soaking device is a great idea and is worthy of consideration by all boat builders. That's what I like about this forum the tips and tricks you can pick up from the other modellers plus plenty of free advice on specific topics related to your own build.

 

I bought the plank bending tool last year and tried on a few test strips to see how much pressure would be required and I'm happy with the results. The pin pusher with an adjustable stop is currently out of stock from CMB. I have found with care and patience I can usually get the pin in OK for easy removal later. Sometimes I use a pin hammer to get the pin in deeper and sometimes I need to ease the pin back a tad.

[Glenn-UK]

No time in shipwrights office yesterday as the Admiral and I were tasked with looking after the grandkids (3 years and 6 months) all day, which was nice but hard work!

 

Managed to get 2.5 hours in office today and started first planking. I decided to use the plank bending tool which is working like a dream. I also decided to butt joint each plank around mid point.

 

I am very impressed that Jerry did the first planking as 1 strip, well done!

 

It is taking about 20 minutes to cut, bend, glue and pin two planks that will go from bow to stern. I'm using standard wood glue for this stage.

Here are some pictures of the start.

On the starboard side I let the first plank follow it natural path, which resulted in fitting a filler piece, as you can see I have followed the traditional advise with maximum depth of cut to only 1/2 plank width

 

But joint, and additional filler pieces fitted

 

On the port side it was not necessary to fit a filler piece as the plank natural flow did stay true with gun port strip 272!

 

2nd plank row also followed the same natural path on port side.

 

Butt joint for adjacent planks terminate on different bulkheads

 

Also found it necessary to fit an additional filler plank at stern, so plank could follow it natural path.

Edited January 26, 2014 by Glennard

[Glenn-UK]

First planking going well; completed 6 plank section from bow to stern on both sides of hull.

 

I calculate there are a further 22 plank layers to fit at the widest point. Given it is currently taking about 20 minutes to fit for one side bow to stern it take approx another 880 minutes to complete the first planking!

 

Given my available build time, the addition effort required for shaping, etc. the first planking will be completed some time next week, probably towards the end of the week then another day for sanding and filling as necessary.

 

I've had no problems using the pin pusher to get the pin started and the tapped in a bit further using a pin hammer.

Edited January 28, 2014 by Glennard

[Jerry]

Hello Glenn...

It looks like you're doing very well and i'm happy for you.  The planking is the first of many repetitive processes that you will endure through the building of this fine model.  You have it down very well so I believe you won't run into any problems.  It seems funny now at the stage of build that I'm at as to how I was concerned about the planking.  I had done it once before when I built the Cutty sark but that was over ten years ago.  When you get to the point where you will have to trim a plank as you round a compound curve take your time and plan well.  As I said it certainly looks like you know what you're doing so I wish you continued success and joy with your project.  Take care,

Jerry

[Mick_S]

Looks like it's going well Glenn, steady but sure.  A couple of questions if I may as I have run into a small problem at the bow of my ship whilst planking......are you 'spilling' the planks at all.....I believe this helps deal with the compound curves Jerry mentions..? Also noticed you are not necessarily symettrical with your planks and running them naturally on each side....my question here is that I assume this couldn't happen on the second planking when there is more visibility of the finished job..?  Glad to hear the pins are working well....I have taken a leaf out of your book and am also using the mapping pins I see in your pictures.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

Mick

[Glenn-UK]

Hi Mick

For the first planking I'm more than happy for the planks to run along the natural line and I'm not worried if the port and starboard sides don't match 100%. The main aim is to get a smooth surface in readiness for the 2nd planking. This may mean plenty of application of sanding and wood filler once the planking is complete.

 

For the complex bend at the bow end I have found the plank bender is working without any problems. At the moment my bend length is 210mm, and I use the plank bend tool every 5mm, this gives a nice 90' bend. I have found using the map pins direct into the balsa support works best for holding plank in position around the bend.

 

I took a few pictures as I installed one of the stern planks which may help.

 

First I identify when the bend starts and mark with the pencil

 

I then make a mark ever 5mm to indicate where to use the plank bend tool

 

I then apply glue to the bulkheads and top of plank

 

Using the pin pusher to get the pin started

 

Tap the pin further in using the pin hammer, ensuring there is plenty left for an easy extraction of the pin once the glue has dried.

[Glenn-UK]

Hi Jerry

Thanks for your comments, it is repetitive. I find it best to do 1 or 2 bow to stern lengths each side and then take a break.   I have the ship resting on two supports on the floor which gives me plenty if room to work and position the ship for each plank, but is not so good for the back!

[Mick_S]

Thanks for the extra information Glenn, very helpful.  I think I have spotted why I have been having trouble with the pins on my build going all the way in.....the ones I have look much shorter than yours......mine were supplied with my kit.  The longer ones will allow a bit more control.

 

I would be interested to see the line your planks take around the bow as you get further into the planking if you wouldn't mind....particularly the lower part of the bow....?

 

Your information and photos are a great help for someone like me who hasn't had much experience.

 

Regards,

 

Mick

[Glenn-UK]

1st Planking still progressing well, just reached rudder point at stern end working down from gun port strip 272

 

The question I have been pondering is: is there any benefit in starting the planking at the keel and work up to some point in the middle?

 

At the moment I’m more inclined to continue working down toward the keel.

[Patrick Haw]

Hi Glenn,

 

I don't think there's any advantage to starting to plank up from the keel at some point in your first planking.  You may want to consider doing it with your second planking depending on the effect you want to create, keeping in mind that it's all going to be covered with copper plates and paint anyway! If you'll pardon me posting a picture on your log, here's the effect I created with my second planking by planking down from the gunports to about the waterline and then up from the keel.  Not that it makes any difference, it's all copper and paint now!

 

Patrick

[Mick_S]

Hi Glenn,  I looked into this quite extensively before doing mine and I have started at the top and then stopped and then gone to the keel and started upwards.  It seems to be the recommended way to go but Patrick makes a good point in that it depends what comes next....if it is all covered up then maybe the priority is to get a straight and solid build in whatever way you choose.  I'm building my kit to get experience before doing a larger and more complex kit so its really a test bed for my skills and I was originally led by the research and reading I did including guides on this site.  A lot is said about the 'Garboard Plank' being a key part of starting the planking away from the keel so I had a go at that with a wider plank as recomended.  Anyway, don't go too much on what I have done, this is all quite new to me but I hope you don't mind me responding.

 

Mick