Wasa by fmodajr - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75

[Karleop]

Hola Frank:

Your last point is that worry me (and probably many of us) is where to put another model: 2 ships and 1 stagecoach in the living room, 1 ship and the Albatros plane in dinning room and 2 more in my hobby room and every time my wife urged me to sell at least one of them.  Thinking about making a special cabinet to place about 4 models in the hobby room, let´s see!!

 

Saludos, Karl

[Ulises Victoria]

Karl. I think this is a common recurring problem we all have: not room to build, but room to display.

 

Saludos

[fmodajr]

Its a kit by Corel named Prins Willem (a Dutch east Indiaman 1651) I painted it in its original coulors and corrected some of to the rigging

You can find the bull log on (I am sorry its in Dutch): 

http://www.modelbouw...c-schip-95.html

(I am sorry its in Dutch), and all pictures on: 

http://www.modelbouw...m-1649-voc.html

 

You are right in not using the Corel blocks they are to rough and full of splinters. I had to use them on the Prins Willem for I could not find 4mm blocks in the stores.

 

Andy

I have ordered the Wasa  

 

Hi Andy,

 

Thanks for sending the links to your Prince Willem. Excellent work, especially the stern section! I wish I could speak Dutch!

 

Frank

[fmodajr]

Hello!

 

Thanks for all the likes!

 

Some small updates.

 

I added the blocks to the masts where possible and also some blocks to the decks around the masts. After I was done, I fitted and glued the masts to the hull!

 

 

The Corel kit plans show some rigging for cargo tackle. However, on the Vasa Museum plans and on the 1/10 model, I do not see it being there. It would make sense that there would be some sort of tackle for getting things on the ship!

For the time being, I added the blocks and eyelets for this tackle on the back of the foremast platform. If I decide to eliminate this, it will be easy to remove. Any thoughts?

 

 

More blocks

 

Masts fitted and glued to ship

 

So now I will put the ship aside and start working on making the yards and the long process of making and sewing the sails.

Next week, I will take a ride to the fabric store and see if I can find something suitable (tight weave and thin muslin) that will work for this ship.

 

Thanks,

 

Frank

 

[marktiedens]

Hi Frank - I did not add that extra tackle. I`m not too sure ships of this time period had them - just looks out of place. It might be a good question for Fred at the museum.However,it`s your ship,so if you like it then go for it.

 

/Mark

[md1400cs]

Frank,

 

Nice update looking very sharp. Though I'm surprised that you did not have to shovel out some snow to make walkways in your work room (:-)

 

Michael

[fmodajr]

 

Hi Frank - I did not add that extra tackle. I`m not too sure ships of this time period had them - just looks out of place. It might be a good question for Fred at the museum.However,it`s your ship,so if you like it then go for it. 

 

/Mark

Hi Mark!

Thanks for the comments. I like your idea of reaching out to Fred Hocker. 

Right now I am thinking of leaving this tackle off my build, but I'll see if F. Hocker has any thoughts on the matter.

 

Thanks,

 

Frank

[GLakie]

Looks great with the masts in place Frank.  Makes her look more complete.

[fmodajr]

 

Looks great with the masts in place Frank.  Makes her look more complete. 

 

Thanks George!

 

With the masts on, I feel I've turned a corner and that I am closer to the end than the beginning!

 

Anyway,

I finished constructing and tapering all the yards.

 

Bowsprit Yards

 

Foremast Yards

 

Mainmast Yards

 

Mizzenmast Yards

 

Yards painted a flat black and sprayed with clear dulcote for handling

 

My next step is to lay out all the sail sizes and shapes on paper, creating a template.

 

Thanks,

Frank

 

 

[fmodajr]

Thanks for all the likes!

 

I took the time to lay out the sail templates on paper.

Since the Corel kit has no sails or sail plans, I used the dimensions Karl was kind enough to forward to me from his Billings kit. (Thank you Karl!)

I only had to make some small modifications for them to work on my model. 

 

These templates are the finished size of a fully laid open sail.

For the sails that I decide will be furled, I will cut off about a third of the template, to thin down the furled sail thickness.

Also, when I cut the sails from the cloth, I will have to add about a 1/4 inch all around the periphery in order for me to create a double 1/8 fold along the ends of the sail.

 

Bowsprit Sails

 

Foremast Sails

 

Mainmast Sails

 

Mizzenmast Sails

 

I'm off to the fabric store tomorrow to try to find some suitable cloth!

 

Thanks,

 

Frank

 

 

[Karleop]

Hola Frank:

 

I'm sure you are going to do a great job with the sails and your idea of partially folded them seems very good.

 

About the fabric: BB kit came with a bit stiff material so I recommend getting the thinner fabric you can get and starching it a bit before cutting (also could be a good idea to dye it a little with fabric colour or tea). This will help with the stitching and folding.

 

Muchos saludos, Karl

[fmodajr]

 

Hola Frank:

 

I'm sure you are going to do a great job with the sails and your idea of partially folded them seems very good.

 

About the fabric: BB kit came with a bit stiff material so I recommend getting the thinner fabric you can get and starching it a bit before cutting (also could be a good idea to dye it a little with fabric colour or tea). This will help with the stitching and folding.

 

Muchos saludos, Karl

Hi Karl,

Thanks for the advice!

I went to the fabric store today and I purchased a "premium bleached muslin" fabric and I am very happy with it. I think it will be thin enough, with a tight high density thread count.

I also will be taking your advice and dyeing the fabric to "dirty" it up a bit! 

I am washing it now to remove any shrinkage, then I will be cutting the sails and start the dyeing process.

We'll see how it goes!

 

Thanks for the help!

Frank

[fmodajr]

Hello!

 

Continuing on with my sails:

 

My next step was to transfer my sail templates onto tracing paper and add a 1/4 inch band around all sides in order to create a double 1/8 inch fold along the edges while sewing.

 

 

I picked up a nice sheet of fabric from the fabric store. (Bleached white Muslin).

Since the cloth is too white, I picked up some fabric dyes and after some trials on scrap pieces, I settled on a formula in order to "dirty up" or soften the look of the sail cloth.

 

 

After mixing, per the instructions, with hot water, I dipped the whole sheet into the dye mix, in order to create an even look throughout the sheet. 

 

 

Then I left the cloth dry overnight

 

 

After I pressed the wrinkles out of the cloth, I pinned the tracing paper to the cloth.

 

 

Now I cut the sail cloth to size.

 

 

I am now ready to start sewing.

I picked up some sewing thread that matches the running rigging line I will be using and the bolt rope I will be hand sewing later in the process.

 

 

Thanks,

Frank

[GLakie]

Awesome assembly-line Frank! 

[md1400cs]

Frank,

 

Nice update on how your doing the sails, great help for later. They are looking very good at this early point.

 

Michael

[fmodajr]

Thanks for all the likes!

 

George and Michael,

 

Thanks for your comments.

I am re-acquainting myself with my wife's sewing machine.

I am working on the sticking of the vertical lines, then I will start the edges. Hopefully I'll have more updates in a week.

 

Thanks again,

Frank

[marktiedens]

Great looking sails,frank. If I do sails at all they will be furled - I don`t have a sewing machine to make all those simulated seams.

 

/Mark

[fmodajr]

 

Great looking sails,frank. If I do sails at all they will be furled - I don`t have a sewing machine to make all those simulated seams.

 

/Mark

Hi Mark,

Good to hear from you!

So, there is a lot to be said for furled sails. I like the sails to be furled so that the rigging can really still stand out to the viewer looking at the ship from outside a case. (Sometimes the intricate rigging can be "hidden" behind a fully open sail).

What I am thinking right now is to have the lower mizzen mast boom sail furled, the lower foremast sail furled, the sail under the bowsprit furled and the lower mainmast sail semi-furled (similar to Karl's sail on his log and the 1/10th at the museum. Hopefully I can pull this off!)

Then have the upper mizzenmast sail, the middle mainmast and foremast sails fully open. I will then make a decision on what to do with the top mainmast, foremast, and bowsprit sails after the other ones are on.

My thinking is to have the lower sails furled in order to not have the sails obstruct the views of the deck of the finished model. 

We'll see.

 

Thanks,

Frank

[GLakie]

Hey! Happy Birthday Frank! Hope you don't over-do-it with the grog and feel rougher than a cob tomorrow!   

 

Cheers

[fmodajr]

Thanks for the birthday wishes George!

 

My wife made my favorite Veal Cutlet Parm for my birthday and I did wash it down with some merlot!

 

Anyway, another year older (and wiser perhaps?) 

 

Frank

[fmodajr]

Hello,

 

After spending some time getting re-acquainted with my sewing machine, I started to sew the vertical lines of my sails.

 

I used a "disappearing ink" fabric pen to lay out some of the vertical lines. The ink disappears after a few hours on its own or right away if you wet the cloth.

 

 

Sewn vertical lines of the lower sails

 

Sewn lines of some of the upper sails.

[GLakie]

Nice job on the sails Frank! I like the use of the disappearing ink for layout. Which kind of sewing machine are you using?

[fmodajr]

When I finished sewing all the vertical lines, I turned my attention to the ends of the sails.

 

First I folded the ends 1/4 of an inch and ironed the fold flat. 

 

 

Then (and this was the hard part for me), I lifted up the 1/4 inch fold and re-folded an 1/8 of an inch and tucked it under itself. Then I re-ironed it flat.

 

 

With the ends folded and iron flat, I now stitched the fold. I tried, as best I could, to keep the stitch near the inside edge, so I could insert some wire for shaping if needed.

 

Back side of sail

 

Front side of mizzenmast sail

 

Insertion of 22 gage wire for shaping of sail (if needed). If not needed when I hang the sail I can always pull it out.

 

 

Lower mainmast sail

 

I am pretty happy with the way things are turning out so far, but I wish I were more educated in the art of sewing!!

 

Now I am going to start hand stitching the bolt ropes around the edge of the sails and then start attaching the completed sails to the yards.

 

Thanks,

 

Frank

 

[fmodajr]

 

Nice job on the sails Frank! I like the use of the disappearing ink for layout. Which kind of sewing machine are you using?

 

Hi George,

 

I hope all is well!

 

The sewing machine I used is my wife's "Janome New Home" Model 1860.

 

Luckily for me, my wife a lot more experience with it than I do, so she was able to show me a few things!

 

Frank

 

[fmodajr]

Hello!

 

I was able to make further progress on my sails.

 

I hand stitched the bolt ropes to the 2 mizzen mast sails.

 

 

I now rigged the mast rollers and attached the lower sail to the yard (boom).

You may notice, that I cutoff 1/3 of this sail because of the furling. The material was removed before I sewed the folds around the edges and the bolt ropes.

 

 

Photo of furled sail.

 

 

At this point, I added the blocks to the yard and sail. Also, I tried to "pre-Rig" line to the sail that might be harder to do if I left it for a later point. A lot to these lines will not be fastened to the deck until later.

 

 

Assembly ready for attachment to the mast!

 

 

Thanks,

 

Frank

 

[fmodajr]

Now I attached the lower  pre-rigged yard (the one without a sail) and the boom with the furled sail.

 

 

My next step is to install the lower shrouds (ratlines) to the mizzen mast on both sides, pre-rig and install the upper yard and full sail, then finish the upper ratlines.

 

Thanks for visiting,

 

Frank

 

[marktiedens]

Nice work Frank. I have always done the shrouds before fastening the yards but your way may be a little easier.I am now trying to decide whether to add belaying pins to the crossbars between the bitts next to the main & fore masts. Someone on the Vasa forum said these crossbars did not have belaying pins. I don`t know how they would belay the lines without them .

 

/Mark

[GLakie]

That's some really nice sewing work you've done on your sails Frank. So the rigging fun begins. 

 

Cheers

[md1400cs]

Frank,

 

Awesome work on your sails they look so good. They will certainly add a huge "bling" to your gorgeous ship. The bolt ropes work is excellent! Did you use ropes from Chuck as well, and what size?

 

Cheers,

 

Michael

[fmodajr]

 

Nice work Frank. I have always done the shrouds before fastening the yards but your way may be a little easier.I am now trying to decide whether to add belaying pins to the crossbars between the bitts next to the main & fore masts. Someone on the Vasa forum said these crossbars did not have belaying pins. I don`t know how they would belay the lines without them  .

 

/Mark

Hi Mark,

 

Thanks for your comments. The rigging of this ship is sure confusing and interesting at the same time. I do wish that Vasa rigging book would come out in print in order to give us some guidance! I was hoping for some better references. I am getting by with a combination of the Vasa plans from the museum (from the 1980's?), the Corel plans, the Billings plans and pictures from the 1/10 model. In the end, hopefully I will come somewhat close to being accurate!

 

Thanks,

Frank