Echo by oneslim - cross-section

[druxey]

Looks like you have a full production shop. We expect you'll have all the frames together and raised by the end of the weekend - right?

[dvm27]

Great setup, Bob. Is that spindle sander a Jet?

[oneslim]

druxey,  No, give me a few weeks at least.

 

Greg,  It's a Shop Fox.  Came with 5 spindles sizes from 3" to 1/2",  I have the 2" mounted.  Works  great,  just makes a lot of noise.

 

 

Bob W

[Trussben]

Wow Bob - very nice setup you have there!! Some nice machines which will help a lot.

 

I'm still in the process of getting everything I want for scratch building, money is my issue!!

 

Have fun.

 

Ben

[oneslim]

Thanks Ben,  Iwill.

 

Bob W

[Tarjack]

Well my homewok is done.  Went ahead and mounted the Keel to the base to check the Frame Squaring device.

 

BOB_0266_1 (Large).JPG

 

 

Profile

 

BOB_0268_1 (Large).JPG

 

 

End view

 

BOB_0269_1 (Large).JPG

 

 

Bob W

Just great idea....cool

[jml1083]

Hi Bob,

 

Came back to revisit your log, good thing I did. Somehow I missed your great idea about using double sided tape to hold pieces to the templates. I'll have to give that a try. The rubber cemet works well but does leave a residue that has to be dealt with.

 

Thanks for the tip!

[oneslim]

Thanks Tarjack.

 

Jim,  be aware that it comes in yellow package two ways.  Removeable and Permanent,  I'm using the removeable.

 

 

Bob W

[oneslim]

Update,

 

Here are afew shots of current work.

 

This is a block I made to hold a lead to mark the where the frames are to be cut for the ports. 

 

 

Profile of seven frames, not 'raised' as yet.

 

 

End view.

 

 

 

Bob W

[dvm27]

Your hull is progressing very nicely, Bob. I used to hook up a pencil to my height gage but now I just use the bladed end that it came with it a use a very sharp pencil to make the mark.

[oneslim]

Greg,

 

I was wondering if the floors were made solid with filling pieces like the Swan Class.

 

Bob W

[druxey]

Fillings between the floors and first futtocks were standard practice. They make a continuous solid 'floor' for the limber channels to drain water efficiently to the pumps.

[jml1083]

Beautiful work Bob, it is really coming along!

[dvm27]

Fillers were there Bob. I didn't include them because...I forgot. Thanks for reminding us so we can get the word to the others before they start planking internally. As my Swan cross-section was planked in and out I didn't include them.

[Cap'n Rat Fink]

Nice work Bob, she looking real good..!

[oneslim]

I though I'd show my system of frame building.

 

Here is how I mark out the frame drawing.  The red lines that cross the frames are the angles of the chock edges.  these are used to mark the chock itself for fitting to the frame members.  The red line across the top is to find the center of the frame.  The frame parts are in yellow and gold to keep the fore and aft parts straight in my head.

 

 

This shot shows the floor in place held by removable double sided tape.  The tape allows me to remove the part so adjustments can be made for fitting.  Also the tape can be removed and replaced without damage to the drawing if needed.

 

 

The chock is first given a straight edge on the disc sander.  It's fitted to the drawing and the angle of the end marked with a pencil that is lined up with the red lines.  Then it's sanded for a tight fit to the floor.  The second futtock is placed on the drawing with the use of spacers and the other end marked and sanded. 

 

 

The chock for the top timber is done in the same manner.  This is frame 3 Aft so it has the foreward cast for the gun port.  The cast is marked with a compass foreward and aft.

 

 

The pattern is taped to the timber and excess trimed.  Then to the oscillating sander where it is sanded to profile making sure to keep it square.

 

 

Here is the finished frame.

 

 

 

Bob W

 

 

 

[42rocker]

Bob

Thank you for that info and pic share. Gives me something to think about as I start working on my HMS Triton frames.

Thanks

 

Later 42rocker

[Trussben]

Very well done Bob, I will be back to remind myself how you did that when I get back to my build, thanks.

 

nem

[druxey]

A very nice, methodical approach, Bob! Looking good.

[oneslim]

42rocker and Trussben,  Hope You find this useful.

 

druxey, Thank You.

 

 

Bob W

[dvm27]

Beautiful work, Bob, especially that cast toptimber.

[jml1083]

Eureka Bob! Thanks for the photo of the cast toptimber. I can't tell you how many attempts I made at this and how many times I tossed the result. Too bad it is early in the day as I would love to run home right now and give it another try.

 

A picture truly is worth 10,000 words.

[oneslim]

Thanks Greg.

 

Jim, glad You can use this info.  BTW,  I forgot to mention that to remove the small amount of residue from the tape,  a Q-Tip wet with acetone brings it right off.

 

 

Bob W

[druxey]

Jim: once you've made a successful cast timber, you won't look back. Except, perhaps, unless you make two right-hand ones instead of a left and a right pair!

[jml1083]

Hi Bob, thanks for the tip about the tape residue; haven't had much of a problem with it but one piece that was held for a considerable period of time did have a tack to it when I finally removed it from the paper template. In a similar vein, do you happen to know what solvent should be used to thin Elmer's contact cement? I bought a new bottle when I got home from the workshop and despite my best efforts to quickly close the bottle after each use the glue it starting to get thick.

 

Good morning druxey. I have a long weekend ahead so I plan on spending a good deal of time down in the shipyard and cast frames are very high on my agenda. I'll keep my wits about me as I layout these members. I hope to have photos by the end of the weekend.

[oneslim]

Jim,

 

I'm not sure what thinner to use.  My bottle of rubber cement is by Best Test from Hobby Lobby.  The label lists n-Heptane and Natural Rubber Latex.  n-Heptane is a bad actor,  (http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9924237).  Have no idea where one might buy this solvent.

 

Bob W

[druxey]

Bob:  I use VM&P naphtha as rubber cement solvent, available from paint merchants.

[Maury S]

I recently learned that there is a difference between "Contact Cement" and "Rubber Cement".  They both come in the same size and shaped bottles.  Removal of the contact cement is more difficult.  I was informed Ronson Lighter Fluid is the same chemical as Goof Off.  Seemed to work fine.

Maury

[druxey]

Ah! Contact cement is a very different beast from rubber cement. One can now get non-solvent based contact cement, I believe. Much safer and better for health and the environment.

[jml1083]

Bob, druxey and Maury, thanks for the info. I'm using rubber cement so naptha is what I'm after. Back in my cabinet making days we used huge amounts of contact cement and used hexane as a release agent. Found out years later that can cause nasty neurological problems.Live (and hopefully) learn.