Bounty Launch by alde - Model Shipways - Small

[alde]

First, thanks for taking a peek at my first build log. I have decided to put my MS Kate Cory on hold. I originally bought the Kate Cory kit in December of 1992. Since this kit is over 20 years old it doesn't really compare to the modern laser cut kits with great instruction manuals. It also helps that there are so many builders of the modern kits to get help from.

 

I have just gotten started on it but I can see it will be a real pleasure to build. The parts are amazing compared to the crude wooden blocks and pieces for the old kit. I chose the Bounty Launch as a first planked project because of all the wonderful build here on MSW. Please feel free to nudge me in the right direction if I get off track.

 

Only one picture so far. I only removed a few parts from the sheets and started to clean up the char marks on the edges. It is not heavily burned like some pictures I have seen.

 

Looking forward to a fun build, Al D.

 

[CaptainSteve]

I'll be following you on your journey, Alde .... I've just bought this kit myself. 

Have you had a read of the other logs for this boat ??

 

You are already further along than I am !!

[alde]

Yes, I have been following other logs. They are so helpful. With the old solid hull Kate Cory set aside this will really be my first build and my first shot at planking too.

 

Al D.

[alde]

Just a bit more progress. These laser cut parts are fantastic.

 

Oh, how do some of you folks keep your work area so clean? I never seem to.

Edited February 17, 2014 by alde

[alde]

I have the building jig assembled and one side faired in. It was pretty staright forward from the instructions. If I were to do it again I would have waited to install the sheer tabs until the jig was faired. The whole bulkhead needs to be faired so the frames lay against it at the correct angle and the tabs make it more difficult. It would be easy to add them after it's all together and sanded fair.

 

I was really apprehensive about cutting the rabbet but the laser cut lines make it pretty easy. I am happy with the way it's going so far.

 

Al D.

 

[alde]

I have what may be a silly newbie question. I am still working on my building form (will do log update in a couple of days) but I have been re-reading ahead in the instructions. When I get to the planking stage and start gluing planks do I edge glue them to each other or just glue to the frames and keel. I imagine edge gluing would be the way to go as not would make for a weak boat.

 

Thanks, Al D.

[UdoK]

Hi Al,
you're definitely on the right track, edge gluing of the Planks is strongly recommended as it gives a lot of strenght to the hull and planking.

Edited February 27, 2014 by UdoK

[Keith_W]

Albert, you should definitely edge glue the planks. The frames on this model are effectively cosmetic and do not contribute very much to the rigidity of the model at all. 

[Twister]

Just to concur with other posters with the edge gluing question. A most emphatic yes! Not only will it add greatly to the overall strength of the hull,it will also give the planking much needed extra support through the sanding / fairing process.

 

In 'big boat' construction (carvel / clinker) planks were never glued (if built properly) with one exception, that being when 'Speed Strip' planking systems (usually cedar) are used. However, with this method both the inside & outside of the hull are also given a glass/epoxy coating to seal the wood and prevent moisture uptake.

 

Good luck with this build & I'll try and pop in to see your updates...

 

Regards,

 

Row

[alde]

Thank you all for the information. I am really looking forward to starting the planking. Right now it doesn't look like much of a boat. At this point the rabbet is cut and the form is built and faired. Bending the frames is next. I plan to put the frams to soak overnight Friday and try bending them to the form the next day. The log will be updated along the way and there will probably be more questions.

 

It's really rewarding to see it come together. This is a great hobby with some great people to help a new guy out.

 

Thanks, Al D.

[usedtosail]

Nice start so far Al. You'll have fun with this kit. As others have said, you want to edge glue the planks. But, be careful with the amount of glue you use. I found it difficult to get the excess glue off the inside of the planks after I took the hull out of the form. Luckily, I only had a few spots to deal with.

[alde]

Tom,

 

Thanks for the tip. I will try to keep the glue to a minimum. I am using yellow wood glue. I try to stay away from super glue where I can. It's too hard to recover from mistakes with it.

 

Al D.

[alde]

Here is the finished form before bending the frames. I decided to use binder clips to hold the keel alignment tabs closed instead of pinning through the keel. It seems to work just fine.

I let the cherry frame stock soak in plain water overnight.

Here is the form all framed up. There was quite a bit of breakage but like other have pointed out they give you plenty of sticks to work with. You can see my broken pile in front of the form.

Now to let it all dry while I re-read the planking section of the instructions.

 

Thanks for looking, Al D.

Edited March 1, 2014 by alde

[alde]

A wise man once said "You can never have too many clamps".

 

 

The planking is going OK. It's far from perfect but since I do plan to paint the outside of the hull it should be fine. There will be a couple of small gaps to fill but the planks are going into the rabbit really well and gluing up just fine. It's taking shape and looking more like a boat.

 

 

. 

[alde]

This is the lower planking on the starboard bow. You can see some gaps and dips.

 

Here is the port bow. A little better but not perfect.

 

Here is the stern and I think this is the problem. It looks like I put the garboard plank too far forward and the rest followed.

 

The upper planks are laying in just fine. I plan to use some slivers of wood and wood putty and paint the lower hull so will just call it a lesson learned and move forward. At a couple of planks a night after work it's slow going but that's ok. I am having a blast with this kit.

 

Al D.

Edited March 6, 2014 by alde

[Keith_W]

Albert, you won't like my suggestion. I recommend that you remove those planks and start again. Because the planks are precisely cut, any errors you make now will compound itself giving you more problems to fix later on. Just paint on some water, and that should soften the glue enough for you to remove the planks.

[CaptainSteve]

Hey Alde,
Sorry, but I gotta be agreein' with Amfibius' comment.

 

Also, have you noticed that the instructions suggest tapering the edges of each plank piece (spiling) so that they will fit together better .. ?

 

Another option, since you mentioned you are going to be painting your Launch, would be to hit the whole thing up with plenty of sawdust/diluted glue mix to even things out. Use sawdust made from the same wood (the left-over templates you removed the planks from would be excellent).

Sand down again, apply a coat or two of sanding sealer, and then paint, and nobody will ever notice the difference !!

(I had to do this with one of the boats on my Connie build when I got a little enthusiastic with the shaping of the hull.)

Edited March 6, 2014 by CaptainSteve

[alde]

Remove the planks? Sounds like major surgery. It might be the best option and then it will be right. I will give that some thought. I am using Elmer's Interior Carpenter's Wood Glue so it should loosen up with some water.

[alde]

OK, I have thought about it a bit and surgery it is. I will try removing the planks with water. Does it take a few applications to get it to work free? I should be able to work out the dent on the one garboard plank without any problems. You guys should see some de-construction pictures in a couple of days.

 

Amfibious, After looking closely at your photos it looks like your garboard plank is in fact a bit further aft. I can see where it flows better with the shapes of the planks that follow.

 

CaptainSteve, I think what Amfibious did by bending all of his planks before gluing any was a great idea. The instructions have us bending and gluing one at a time but the can be dry fitted better if you have them all bent first.

Edited March 6, 2014 by alde

[usedtosail]

Some isopropyl alcohol will help loosen the glue too. That's what I used to remove the transom on mine. I just dabbed it on with a Q-tip and let it sit for an hour or so. Some gentle prying and out they popped.

[alde]

Thanks for the tip Tom. I will give it a shot.

[CaptainSteve]

Al,

Just take care with each plank as you remove it ... and as you are replacing it.

We ain't in a race here ...

(Personally, I think the winners are you and I coz we get to see the problems the others had before us)

Edited March 6, 2014 by CaptainSteve

[alde]

Steve, That's why I don't mind posting close up photos of my mistakes. It not only helps me but maybe somebody else down the line. As frustrating as it gets at times it's still fun to work through problems.

[alde]

A question for those with more experience. When I remove the planks can I just remove the 6 planks closest to the keel or do I have to remove the sheer planks and their mates even though they laid in fine? I don't think the form will warp but wanted a second opinion.

 

Thanks, Al D.

Edited March 6, 2014 by alde

[usedtosail]

You should be fine leaving the sheer planks.

[alde]

OK, I have started with the alcohol application with a fine point syringe. I will let it work in for a while then re-apply. Now I will open a bottle of consumable alcohol in the for of a beer while I have pizza and watch the Boston Bruins hockey game. Life is good.

[alde]

OK, I gave the glue joints a good soak with 99% pure isopropyl alcohol and let it set during the hockey game. I came back and gave it another squirt and slowly started peeling and it came off pretty easy with no damage. I will just soak the 3 planks together in warm water to get them apart and clean off the glue on the rib lines.

 

Thanks all for the help and encouragement to do it the right way.

 

[usedtosail]

Glad to help out another Bruins fan.

[alde]

I got the second side off with no issues and soaked the first side apart and cleaned it all up. It went much easier then I expected. No to clean the glue off the old glue and get it back together. I tried dry fitting the planks further aft and the go much better. I don't think I was using the templates from sheet 2 of the plans corectly. It all lines up now. It's good to know that a mistake like this can be corrected without too much problem,

 

Thanks again for all the help.

 

Al D.

[alde]

The removed planks are back on and it's a world of difference. Just mounting the garboard planks a fraction of an inch too far forward threw the whole thing off. The big lesson here for me is to not be afraid to take something apart to do it right. I was going to patch it up with filler and move on but it would have just compiled. There are a couple of gaps from trying to fit the planks in the wrong place but they are minor.