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HMS Snake by drtrap - Caldercraft


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Now, I'm about to start the assembly & shaping of the main mast and I know what to do to do it better.

First thing in my opinion  is to mark and paint the yellow to black border below the bibbs and second to drill and open at hte same level the cleats holes. 

Edited by Stergios
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Following the manual instructions the week before I cut and glued Nr 31 walnut parts for the foremast cheeks...

The right was to cut and glue Nr 32  :angry:  :angry:  :angry:

Another wrong from the manual writter propably due to a beer's complication... :cheers:

The only solution for the main mast was to elongate parts Nr 32 (foremast) and simulate Nr 31 (main mast) cheeks.

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Edited by Stergios
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This is a critical step.

I'm trying to establish the right (parallel to the water) orientation of the lower top mast.

I need your comment, what's the best choice: sanding with a file the cheeks and bibbs or placing a wedge up there between the walnut parts?

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  • 4 weeks later...

I agree.

 

Mort

Current Build - Caldercraft Victory

 

Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William 

 

Waiting to be Launched -  Bluejacket Constitution

 

 

Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society

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In the middle of the summer a point for debating...:

to glue or to not glue to the deck the lower parts (lower-mast) of the fore- main- and mizzen-masts?

I've prepared and painted the lower parts of the masts as appropriate but I do'nt feel so sure about how to proceed....

What's the best next step? Gluing the lower masts to the deck, adding & gluing the upper parts to the lower parts of the masts or starting the shrouds bilaterally without gluing the masts on the deck?

If you're there, away from the beach, I'm waiting your experienced opinion/recommendations.

Thanks a lot!

 

Stergios 

Edited by Stergios
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I have always preferred to attach as many yards and lines - both standing and running rigging lines - as possible to the masts before I step them.  On my last 3 ships - Mamoli Connie and Rattlesnake and Caldercraft Snake - I did not pin - nail -  the yards to the masts or the masts to the deck. I followed Lees, Pattersson and Lever and had no problem. It was just as they said. On my first few models I glued the masts to the deck and pined the - nailed - the yards to the masts.  

 

I think it is easier and faster to work with everything off of the ship. I label all of the standing rigging lines with the # of the pin they attach to. The schrouds are numbered from bow to stern on the plans  by me so I know where to tie them to on the model. Same with the fore and back stays.

 

There are times that all of the lines look like a plate of spaghetti but they are easy to untangle and you should have no problem if you take your time.

 

The rat lines I attach when everything is tied down.

 

Hope this helps,

Mort  

Current Build - Caldercraft Victory

 

Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William 

 

Waiting to be Launched -  Bluejacket Constitution

 

 

Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society

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I have always preferred to attach as many yards and lines - both standing and running rigging lines - as possible to the masts before I step them.  On my last 3 ships - Mamoli Connie and Rattlesnake and Caldercraft Snake - I did not pin - nail -  the yards to the masts or the masts to the deck. I followed Lees, Pattersson and Lever and had no problem. It was just as they said. On my first few models I glued the masts to the deck and pined the - nailed - the yards to the masts.  

 

I think it is easier and faster to work with everything off of the ship. I label all of the standing rigging lines with the # of the pin they attach to. The schrouds are numbered from bow to stern on the plans  by me so I know where to tie them to on the model. Same with the fore and back stays.

 

There are times that all of the lines look like a plate of spaghetti but they are easy to untangle and you should have no problem if you take your time.

 

The rat lines I attach when everything is tied down.

 

Hope this helps,

Mort  

Hi Mort and thank you so much.

I think I need to take my time to deal with all those ...sticks and spaghetti!!

For the mo I feel more safe to attach first the lower parts on the deck, but we'll see, I'm taking seriously on my mind your reffering recommendation.

Thank you again!!

 

Stergios

Edited by Stergios
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I have always preferred to attach as many yards and lines - both standing and running rigging lines - as possible to the masts before I step them.  On my last 3 ships - Mamoli Connie and Rattlesnake and Caldercraft Snake - I did not pin - nail -  the yards to the masts or the masts to the deck. I followed Lees, Pattersson and Lever and had no problem. It was just as they said. On my first few models I glued the masts to the deck and pined the - nailed - the yards to the masts.  

 

I think it is easier and faster to work with everything off of the ship. I label all of the standing rigging lines with the # of the pin they attach to. The schrouds are numbered from bow to stern on the plans  by me so I know where to tie them to on the model. Same with the fore and back stays.

 

There are times that all of the lines look like a plate of spaghetti but they are easy to untangle and you should have no problem if you take your time.

 

The rat lines I attach when everything is tied down.

 

Hope this helps,

Mort  

Hi again Mort

could you please inform me what;s exactly "Lees, Pattersson and Lever" ??  :rolleyes: 

A reffering rigging textbook or something related?

I'm in complete darkness about this....  :huh:

Thank you in advance.

Edited by Stergios
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Hi Stergios,

 

There is nothing to thank me for. We are all in this together. Any advice I can offer I will.

 

Lever is Darcy Lever - "Young Officer's Sheet Anchor"

 

Pattersson is Lennarth Petersson - "Rigging Period Ship Models"

 

Lees is James Lees - "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War"

 

Take your time and enjoy the rigging process.

 

I only have to rig #'s 54 and 55, the lower ratlines and hoist the Red Ensign.....hopefully 3-5 weeks more. 

 

Keep up the great work. Your model is beautiful.

 

Mort

Current Build - Caldercraft Victory

 

Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William 

 

Waiting to be Launched -  Bluejacket Constitution

 

 

Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society

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Hi Stergios,

 

There is nothing to thank me for. We are all in this together. Any advice I can offer I will.

 

Lever is Darcy Lever - "Young Officer's Sheet Anchor"

 

Pattersson is Lennarth Petersson - "Rigging Period Ship Models"

 

Lees is James Lees - "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War"

 

Take your time and enjoy the rigging process.

 

I only have to rig #'s 54 and 55, the lower ratlines and hoist the Red Ensign.....hopefully 3-5 weeks more. 

 

Keep up the great work. Your model is beautiful.

 

Mort

Right, I've "Rigging period ships models" on my desk but I did/nt know the writter.... :o

Thanks a lot.

Cheers

Edited by Stergios
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My pleasure my friend.

Current Build - Caldercraft Victory

 

Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William 

 

Waiting to be Launched -  Bluejacket Constitution

 

 

Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society

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Enjoy your vacation.

Current Build - Caldercraft Victory

 

Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William 

 

Waiting to be Launched -  Bluejacket Constitution

 

 

Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society

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  • 2 weeks later...

Next stop: trying to chequ the alignment of the midle (top mast dowel) and the lower part of the foremast.

The most difficult point of this procedure is to find the right height to open the hole and pass the hinge to stop the middle part on the gunwale (i prefer to use a 2mm toothpick vs the 1,5 mm walnut strip). All the parts are dry fitted, so isn;nt so easy to keep them in the right way.

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Edited by Stergios
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I'm thinking of picking up the HMS snake myself. Looking at Caldercrafts online PDF instructions for some of their other ships (since Snake's instructions don't seem to be available on their website), there's a list of paints, finishes, and other materials in the manual that they recommend to finish the model.

 

If there's a similar list in the Snakes manual, could I ask a tiny favour for you to maybe snap a pic of the list, or transcribe it here in a post? I'd like to buy everything in one go, rather than buy the kit, read the list, and then have to make a second buy of all the supplies.

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I'm thinking of picking up the HMS snake myself. Looking at Caldercrafts online PDF instructions for some of their other ships (since Snake's instructions don't seem to be available on their website), there's a list of paints, finishes, and other materials in the manual that they recommend to finish the model.

 

If there's a similar list in the Snakes manual, could I ask a tiny favour for you to maybe snap a pic of the list, or transcribe it here in a post? I'd like to buy everything in one go, rather than buy the kit, read the list, and then have to make a second buy of all the supplies.

Hi Kitzilla

I think this is all that you want...

Cheers

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At this point I'd like to ask, especially you Mort and Norman whether you have painted in yellow ochre the middle and upper 1/3 parts of fore- and main- masts or you have left the unpainted (except the sections in black).

If you have left them unpainted, did you use the original dowels from the kit or have you ordered walnut aftermarket dowels?

Thank you in advance!

 

Stergios 

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