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Kate Cory by jablackwell - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64


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I think it was to allow the whaleboat to be lowered without rubbing into the hull. The bow curve begins right about that location forward, so the foremost davit would be inboard more and cause the lowering boat to scratch all the way down. If you have sketches, that would be really handy. Thanks. I really appreciate that.

~john

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Looking at the drawings again and comparing cross section b~b with c~c it appears that the forward davit was placed outboard to avoid a conflict with the forward pinrail and to get the davit free of the shrouds and ratlines. That is the only reason that I can come up with. It seems to me,from an engineering standpoint ,it would have been simpler to have made minor allowances fo the standard davit. That is probably the conclusion reached by those who put that davit inboard with the others. Idont know what Ronnberg s reasoning was for showing it as he did , but I am sure he had a good one. He is recognized a having extensive knowledge of all aspects of the New England fishery.I would just do it as shown with a couple of u shaped brackets around the davit into the planksheer and mainrail, after removing the base and reducing the diameter at the lower end.

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Agreed on the pinrail and associated interference with the shrouds/ratlines. It's right in there with the whole mess of rigging. Well, looks like some fun times on the outer bulwarks! Thanks for checking into that. That helps. :-)  

 

~john

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My solution to the davit.... I shaved off excess materials from the davit (the base and the cleats), added a small wooden "shelf" just above the outboard plankshear with a notch to accept the base of the davit, a notch in the caprail.... then strapped it in place. It will look better when the copper oxidizes a little.  

 

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Ok - the irony: the plans from the Bedford Whaling Museum show the davit in both locations: outboard from the overhead deck view and then it is shown inboard on the bow facing vertical. Well..... I have decided it will be outboard. 

 

~john

 

 

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Hi John, looking at your picture with the davit outboard, I can see another reason for doing it that way. With the davit inboard, the whale boat would be up against the aft corner of the fore channel when hoisted up well clear of the water. Avoiding that with the davit inboard would have required that it be longer than the others to extend further out. That probably explains the whole matter.They ordered 6 just alike,and only realized they needed one longer when it came time to install them. Rather than wait for another one,they just did this. People back then were no different than us,~~forever painting themselves into little corners .

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Finished lifts and cranes.

Removed them when I discovered that they were at the incorrect height and whaleboats could not fit(!). Measure twice.... yep. 

Re-installed them. Tested. Phew.

Got the bowsprit and jibboom completed along with the martingale. 

I am thinking now about masts. 

 

~john

 

post-9749-0-87653600-1429979986_thumb.jpgpost-9749-0-02373000-1429980031_thumb.jpg

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Little gal is growing up.

 

Just a quick comment on masts and yards.  Get as much of the  fittings done off the ship, where possible.  I find it makes life a lot easier.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Hi John, just went through your log..... Excellent work!!!!..... loved your tryworks and your ships boats..  I've always liked the "Kate Cory"   looks like it's a really nice kit. Have Fun, will be following your progress.

 

Frank

completed build: Delta River Co. Riverboat     HMAT SUPPLY

                        

                         USRC "ALERT"

 

in progress: Red Dragon  (Chinese junk)

                      

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  • 3 weeks later...

I haven't posted anything in a while: been busy with making the masts..... lots of lathe work and sanding... slow sanding. They are assembled now, and painted. Little parts and pieces have been added to the main mast. I still have work to do on the fore mast. I'll then finish up the tops and royals with their respective rigging and shrouds.... then step them in for their all-ship standing rigging.

 

Now investigating sail material and seem to be running into serious issues finding a source of silkspan, what I used to use on model airplanes. Any ideas?  

 

~john

 

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post-9749-0-78690200-1431550598_thumb.jpg

 

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Nice work, John.  Get on as many of the blocks etc. as you can before you start the standing rigging.

 

Haven't seen silkspan in years!  Someone should chime in though ..... there are quite a few ships with sails on MSW.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Hi John, your KC is looking really good. I especially like your whaleboats. When I get to those for the Morgan, I ll have a look back at yours for reference. Ithink your solution for the forward davit is as sound as any. I bet that,if it was as I surmised in my earlier post,somebody was on the wrong end of some coal mine creole when they realized one of the davits would nt work.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been away for a while working on a re-build of the HO scenery in the basement. "Little Switzerland" is now a re-born project with about 24'x8' dimensions, thus saving me some 64 square feet of basement space... yeah, the old layout was large!  This new one will run prototypically with electricity from overhead lines (catenary) and pantographs on the locos. While that was going on.....

 

I found some Silkspan (Guillow airplane shop)!  So, it looks like either furled, unfurled, or a little of both for the Kate Cory. This has opened a whole slew of new research and reading... and omg rigging, lots more rigging. I am little excited and terrified at the same time. In the meantime, I have been getting the upper shrouds installed with their appropriate ratlines. The masts are looking good. I am using a hint from someone else here on MSW: go through the plans meticulously all the way to the end, and keep a running build notebook with step-by-steps that can be readily changed when something new pops up later on in the plan scouring. This has made planning out the masts a LOT easier. As recommended, I am doing all that I can to the masts before they are stepped.  

 

In the meantime, here are some shots of the revisited Little Switzerland.... perhaps off topic, but it's better than no pics at all ;-)

 

~john

 

 

post-9749-0-42770700-1433001446_thumb.jpgpost-9749-0-56772400-1433001573_thumb.jpg

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
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  • 2 weeks later...

Now working on the foremast details. First all the rings and eyebolts then upper futtock shrouds and sheaves.  I need to figure out a good way to attach the lower yard onto the front of the futtock band. It has made me think about bends in sheet brass to act as a catch for the little spindly metal piece (yard truss) that attaches to the yard. Going is slow, but the challenges excellent.

 

~john

 

post-9749-0-24109100-1434484668_thumb.jpg

 

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Making a slow and steady dent in the foremast details. I have decided to at least >>try<< to get furled sails onto this model. SilkSpan acquired and ready to go. Now I am learning a lot more about square rigged sails and sailing... quite a journey! 

 

post-9749-0-61588200-1434729666_thumb.jpg

 

~john

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

All,

 

A question concerning topmast shrouds.

The Kate Cory has three fore-topmast shrouds per side, port and starboard. How are these "attached" at the top (where the topmast meets the topgallant)? My understanding is that, when in pairs, two shrouds are one continuous line from base, to top, down to base again and then seized at the top. Now with this uneven count, I find myself stumped, and looking for the realistic methods of their installation and rigging.  My inclination is that the 3rd shroud gets seized upon itself? Which shroud would that normally be? Foremost? Aft-most? None of the above ;-)

 

Thanks All!

 

~john

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When faced with an odd number of shrouds, i rig the foremost shrouds in pairs and the aft most as a single running from port to starboard.  The single is not seized to anything.  Not sure that's 'by the book' but it works.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Sounds like a plan, indeed. Thanks Augie. There is mention of single, unpaired shrouds in the text The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War calling those unmated shrouds "swifters" and, yes, you are correct, they were the aft-most. They say to use an eyesplice on their tops. 

~john

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OK, that'll work and probably be most accurate.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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....and another text says to do what you suggested!  Have one shroud that goes through the cap and to the other side, port to starboard. Isn't modeling fun!? ;-)

 

Augie - thanks again - you have always been really helpful, and that is much appreciated. 

 

~john

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok - I am off for a little while on a research trip to Tokyo and will be back in August. I spent some loving time working on the shrouds for the foremast today, and that is about as far as I'm going to get until later in the summer, alas. Can't take that model with me!    Unti later!  ~john

 

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Edited by jablackwell
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Have a safe trip John !

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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  • 1 month later...

Back on the project this week and working on two pieces alternating... back and forth to maintain sanity ;-)  Ratlines and more ratlines... and more ratlines... and then the standing rigging on the bow. I love this part.

 

post-9749-0-33393700-1440592311_thumb.jpg

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Welcome home!!!!

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Spent this fine summer day working on the bow sprit and jib boom standing rigging. Had one instance of SNIP... the WRONG one. Ooops.   :angry:  but that was all rectified with a cold beer and some hours away from the model.  Now the basics are complete and looking quite nice.  Back to rat lines! 

 

~john

 

post-9749-0-19452900-1441051747_thumb.jpg

 

post-9749-0-74897900-1441051747_thumb.jpg

 

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I'm sure you're aware of it John, but the more of the rigging and spars you get on board, the more carefully you need to move around her.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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John,

 

Really enjoyed going through your build log. Beautiful details.

PS: Loved the oven (:-)

 

Regards,

 

Michael

Michael

Current buildSovereign of the Seas 1/78 Sergal

Under the table:

Golden Hind - C Mamoli    Oseberg - Billings 720 - Drakkar - Amati

Completed:   

Santa Maria-Mantua --

Vasa-Corel -

Santisima Trinidad cross section OcCre 1/90th

Gallery :    Santa Maria - Vasa

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

John, just went through your build log, very nice.  You have some great details, the tryworks, the whale boats and one of my favorites, the hp 11C.  I've used mine since the '80's and can't understand why everyone doesn't use RPN.

Sal

Nautical Research Guild

Current

USCG Harriet Lane - Model Shipways

 

Complete 

U.S. Brig Syren - Model Shipways

New York Pilot Boat 'Phantom' 1868 - Model Shipways

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Sal,

 

RPN is the only way I think mathematically these days. I learned it back in my early engineering days and never went back. Who nedes parenthesis!?  ;)

 

All,

I am still working on the ratlines for the foremast at this time. I have the mast set up in a block in front of the TV to watch old movies, tennis, etc, while I make little knots.... lots of little knots. I am going to work on the spars next then think about rigging in the shrouds and stays. Soon in that process, I want to get the whalecraft lines in place, well before I get into running rigging.

 

I am also experimenting with SilkSpan to make sails for this model and have been inspired by some of the amazing work being done by others in this regard. A little paint with white glue, some time and a lot of attention to small details, and the sails would look very very nice. 

 

Augie: you mention (quite correctly) to be aware of the issues of moving around the boat once rigging gets into place: SO TRUE!  This being my second model, the memories of the first experience have dulled a little, and I did encounter an error while rigging into the bowsprit. I snipped a true line and not the spare rope that needed cutting. Ooops. Had to re-rig.  Ahhh, patience!  

 

Cheers!

~john

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