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US Brig Niagara by Laxet - FINISHED - Model Shipways


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Thanks John. It's actually not so bad. Once I overcame the obstacle of physically bending planks (without breaking them) the rest is pretty straight forward. I'm rooting for you to start soon. I'll give you all the help I can (keeping in mind that this is still my first wooden ship build). Just remember, free help is worth exactly what you pay for it! :D

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I have a smart phone too. Hasn't helped on iota.

Norwegian Sailing Pram 1:12 Scale. 2nd boat in the learning series.

 

 

In Dry Dock:

Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack. 1:24 scale. Model Shipways, 3rd in the learning series.

Not sure what'll be next, probably the Santa Maria by Artesania Latina 1:65 scale. Unless someone has a better suggestion for a beginner.

Pride of Baltimore. Model Shipways. Clipper used in the war of 1812.

Black Falcon. Mantua Model. 18 century corsair brig.

CSS. Alabama. E. Manolie? Can't read the font. Build in Liverpool in 1862 for use in the American Civil War by the Confederates. Steam and sail, sloop of war.

 

Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

A baseball cap my Dad wore.

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Here is some help on focusing your IPhone: first turn on the grid option for the camera (found in Camera under Settings), then when you line up your photo, wait for the yellow box to appear. The area inside the yellow box will show what the camera has focused on...hope this helps.

 

I enjoy reading your build log. I have just started my Niagra (and build log). You have done some nice work. Remember: only you will be aware of the blemishes. The rest of the world will just be amazed at what you did.

Steve Brock

San Jose, CA

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Started working on the open hearts for the bowsprit. According to Lever the heart is bound with a rope loop.

 

post-11110-0-11720200-1408224447_thumb.jpg

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Obviously, at this scale, this would be impossible. This was my solution. I see others had way different ideas on how to accomplish this. I think mine fairly closely approximates the original.

post-11110-0-07098600-1408224580_thumb.jpg

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The point where the two bights come together is moveable. I then seized the other end to the heart, adjusted the knot, then seized over it so it is barely noticeable. It looks something like this. This is both of them.

post-11110-0-76356400-1408224697_thumb.jpg

post-11110-0-24388400-1408224698_thumb.jpg

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These are the little things that I guess the old pros assume everybody knowns how to do. That is why I will highlight these things for us neophytes, so others won't have to go searching for how to do this stuff. Call it a public service. :)

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And here is the final result. Not too shabby. Notice how I've jumped right on touching up the paint from repairing the previous screw-ups.

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Working on the shroud collar now. It would have been nice if they would have put a note ON THE PRINT somewhere that said to use a drilled out deadeye for the bullseye. After fifteen minutes of trying to figure out what to use, I found a small footnote on the PARTS LIST of all places. Why, that's the first place I'd of thought to look for it! :angry:

 

I don't want to go off on a rant here but it would have made this kit easier to build for us beginners if they would provide a list of lines & referenced them on the prints. For that matter, a list of tie points (cleats, eyebolts, etc) as well. Then I would know if I missed any. It might make it easier to tell what I could do off ship, too. I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to attach the jibboom martingale. Looks like it will have to be seized in place. Some day this will all be second nature, but I ain't there yet. 

 

I know this kit is supposed to intermediate, but with the right instructions, it needn't be. The actual work is rather straight forward. What I need is guidance.

 

But that's just my opinion.

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I decided to redo the ship's bell. The legs I had made before were too short. That's what I get for following the print without verifying before building. It was a trick to figure out how to attach the actual bell. I ended up just tying a half hitch at each end of both ropes that held it & touched it with a dab of CA. Here's how it came out.

post-11110-0-96051900-1408397083_thumb.jpg

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I also did a small amount of work on the shroud collar. I hollowed out the deadeyes, & made the first seizing. I thought about serving it, but at this size, nobody will see it so I will keep it simple. I will probably finish this tomorrow.

post-11110-0-68880500-1408397256_thumb.jpg

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Hi Laxet

I wondered why my bilge pump and bell tower looked much bigger than the rest of the fittings

All the fitting drawings are at 1 to 1 EXCEPT the bilge pump and bell tower which are at 3/8 to the inch

So I had to go back and completely rebuild

Another trap for beginners !!

 

Regards

Ken

Under construction  US Brig Niagara

 

Completed  HMB Endeavour - Caldercraft

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You know what. Same thing happened to me. Once I discovered that I went back to the prints & put a note at each instance of these that they were double sized so I wouldn't get bit again.

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Got a package in the mail today from Model Expo. Once again they have come through. I was shorted some .028" black line. At the same time I requested a whole 'nother set of quarter boat lifts, since I had screwed up the originals so badly. They were there also. I really like dealing with Model Expo. They do stand behind their products 100%, no questions asked.

 

However, and I don't want to sound ungrateful here, but the line they sent is nylon & it is so stiff I don't know if I can make it straight. I may just have to buy or make some other line.

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Hi Laxet

I run black line through my forefinger and thumb nail

That seems to take some of the extra curl and kinks out of the line

 

Regards

Ken

Under construction  US Brig Niagara

 

Completed  HMB Endeavour - Caldercraft

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Guest Tim I.

Got a package in the mail today from Model Expo. Once again they have come through. I was shorted some .028" black line. At the same time I requested a whole 'nother set of quarter boat lifts, since I had screwed up the originals so badly. They were there also. I really like dealing with Model Expo. They do stand behind their products 100%, no questions asked.

 

However, and I don't want to sound ungrateful here, but the line they sent is nylon & it is so stiff I don't know if I can make it straight. I may just have to buy or make some other line.

 

Soak it for a little while (not more than 10 minutes), and run it through your fingers to straighten in. That has worked for me in the past.

 

- Tim

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I coat my lines with bees wax (cuts down on the amount of dust collected) and then run it over a light bulb. The heat of the bulb relaxes the line.

 

By the way, nice catch on the 3/8" scale. Glad you mentioned it before I got to that point. I checked plans and found several other instances, including the knighthead (2B-B) and bulwark x-section (2A-A).

Steve Brock

San Jose, CA

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Thanks Steve. Actually, it was Ken that brought up the scale issue, but I did confirm it.

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