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milosmail

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About milosmail

  • Birthday May 19

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Jose, CA
  • Interests
    sailing/racing, scuba, nautical history, PC 'stuff'.

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  1. Really nice build on your Niagra. I have been a lurker reading your blog, and I appreciate the info. on problems you encountered. As for mounting , We probably all made the mistake on our first kit to not drill mounting holes in the keel at an early stage. I know I did. Looks like you recovered nicely. Mine is going slowly, as life has interfered over time - mostly a couple of home remodels... I have just finished painting the hull and moving on to planking the deck. Well, enjoy your ship. What's your next build?
  2. This may have been previously stated, but... When you set the mast(s), be very sure you start attaching lines from the inside (i.e. closest to the center line) out. But, attach ratline shrouds first, to stabilize the masts, then all the standing rigging. Then any running rigging you want to add. You may want to put some running rigging on, such as sheets, braces, halyards that would normally be present on an operating ship at dock. Even without sails present.
  3. I never glue in the masts. They will be very snug once all the shrouds and stays are attached. They won't wobble, but be sure tension on shrouds is equal, such that mast is upright with the proper rake and vertical side to side... But, still very difficult to remove once many lines are attached to the deck and railings.... So just paraphrase the old carpenter's saying - measure twice (at least) and cut once.
  4. OK, vacations are done, visitors are gone, so I finally have time to get back to it. I have been building the scaffolding round the gun and sweep ports. In the process I discovered a manufacturing error. My bulwarks for section K were not equally spaced from the center keel line (not symmetrical), and in fact the port side was 3mm narrower measured from the center keel to the inside of the bulwark. This became very apparent when I placed the cross brace from K to L at the tip of the bulwark. I went back through alignment measurements - everything was square in all 6 axis, so I measured the
  5. Regarding anchor rope; remembering this large diameter rope could well run over 300 feet or more, and when it was not stowed below deck, then it would have been coiled in a figure eight pattern called a flake, and left on the deck near the bow. Flaking minimized the chance of the line fouling when the anchor was dropped.The working end would have to be available at the capstan, as that was used to pull it up. I believe typically when the ship was at sea, the anchor rope was detached and stowed below. It would be brought out only when anchoring seemed to be a probable event. I would run your
  6. Dale, isn't it nice how we get to be carpenters, painters, plumbers, electricians, riggers, sail makers, steam fitters, etc. I like the photo of the chain plate. These are really simplified from others I have seen, made from links or made from a solid bar. Easier to replicate. Yours will be fine. By the way, not sure on square riggers, but on a modern sail craft, the lee side stainless steel stays will always be slack as the mast will bend a bit. I suspect this was true for wooden masts with hemp/manila shrouds as well.
  7. Larry, what kind of wood did you fashion your oars from? I take it you cut the blanks from wood the thickness of a shaft, then did a lot of filing/sanding? Did you grind the shafts down first with a Dremel or? They look great, and I want to repeat the process.
  8. Very nice deck, Larry. Wood finish looks natural as is. I usually mount or mark deck coamings positions, cut planks to fit around. But I may try installing on top this time. I still hope to use nibbling strake, but if it gets too difficult, I will abandon. I probably will run planks full length, as you did.
  9. Boats are looking great. Glad to have you blaze the trail (calm the seas?) for me. Mine is going slow; still working on gunport framing prior to planking.
  10. Well....., I was going to post pictures today (but that was before I discovered I had washed my IPhone with my other laundry - oh well, I wanted a new IPhone 6 anyways). Once I have the new phone, I will post some shots again. I am in the process of executing the gun port/oar framing which is not difficult. Tedious due to the planksheer needing fill to match the thickness of the bulwarks as previously mentioned. I plan to plank the external hull from the caprail down to the waterway, and then begin with the garboard strake at the keel. This is my least favorite part of construction. I enjoy
  11. Had little time to work the past few weeks (my daughter has 7 month old twins which are a handful), but getting back to it now. Has anyone deviated from the painting plans on the kit? The green interior bulkheads seem out of place (shouldn't they be red?), and the red coamings seem wrong also, at least with respect to authenticity. I think the kit is just following the color profile of the ship in Erie. In looking at painting of models vs the posted picture of the real Erie ship, I was struck that on a large scale, the red and green are much more muted. The model paints are too bright. And
  12. How is the planking going? Here are a couple of thought. Planks do need to be tapered within the belts (duh) as they approach the bow, but no plank should be tapered less than half its width. Are you aware of the joggle strip technique? I don't have any photos, but essentially you make a custom fitted piece to dove tail into two narrow pieces near the bow. Sort of the opposite of stealers, which you will need at the stern. If you have access to recent issues of Ships in Scale, there are a series of articles on planking by Bob Hunt which demonstrate the use of stealers and joggle strips. Plan
  13. My computer crashed last Friday (bad memory chip corrupted the Windows kernel), so I have been busy rebuilding it. Back on the air now. Yes, a quick check showed most of the sills were too narrow. I had already painted them in preparation for installing, so I think I will add strips of filler after they are glued in and then shape when I add exterior planking. Is that about the right sequence? Meanwhile, back to the knightshead....
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