Carmen 1850 by GuntherMT - FINISHED - Constructo - Scale 1: 80 - pailebote (Schooner) - first wooden ship build

[GuntherMT]

So as I've worked on this kit, I've done a lot of thinking about what I liked about it, but also about what I would look for in a first kit if I knew a few weeks ago all the things I've learned since starting.  Things that I came up with:

 

- Larger scale, but not necessarily more complicated.

- Better instructions and plenty of reference works to use for assistance.

- Single mast preferred, not square rigged.

- Double planked.

- Guns to learn that aspect, but not very many of them.

- Something that appealed to me (the Carmen does fit this bill, it's a pretty ship).

 

I kept coming back to the same model, over and over again when looking through models offered by many different companies, and that model is the Armed Virginia Sloop by Model Shipways.  I finally decided this weekend that I was going to get that as my next kit, and when I visited the Model Expo website this morning, discovered that it is on a 30 day back-order, which seems like pretty good timing to me (I figured another week or two for shipping for 5-6 weeks total to be delivered), so I went ahead and ordered it.  Next project confirmed!

[themadchemist]

...and you forgot
 
- wont be building this one to see if you like the hobby
 
It's funny, but as I read your list of requirements, I was going to suggest the exact boat you picked. I've only been at this hobby for 2 years this Nov. and I never expected to become so immersed in it. I'm in the process now of working on a shop more suited to making sawdust, as I do most at my desk now and that limits so much. I've recently been spending hobby budget on reference material, so if there a topic of interest, let me know and possibly I could direct you towards some of the best. Petersson's book on fore and aft rigging is a must, It will come in handy on this build also. Its nearly all diagrams and available for download.

Here:
http://www.libramar.net/news/rigging_period_ship_models_a_step_by_step_guide_to_the_intricacies_of_the_square_rig/2009-11-05-48

examples from petersson


Congrat's on the new acquisition and on finding a place in an interesting hobby.

[aliluke]

Very nice work on Carmen Brian and I can definitely recommend the AVS - a great choice you have made there, she builds into a wonderful model.

[GuntherMT]

Thanks Keith, I'm downloading that book now.  Luckily I don't need to read it right now, as they throttle free accounts to old-school modem speeds.

 

Thanks for the kind words Alistair.  Your build of the AVS was one of the ones I went through and will reference when I get to this a couple months from now, and I'm following your Fly build as well, it's looking great so far.

[GuntherMT]

First off, Keith, that book is fantastic.  Thanks again!

 

It seems that I've run into a bit of a stumbling block.  I'm at a point in the instructions where I'm building deck furniture (fittings?) and the instructions say - "Cut out the bitts no. 71 and make the recesses as shown in the centreline plan."

 

The only problem is, that as far as I can tell, I don't have a centreline plan.  I could try to put these together from the pictures in the book, but without decent measurements I am not sure how well that will work.  I don't have much extra of the wood sizes used for these pieces for do-overs either.

 

I've sent an email to the email address I found elsewhere on the forums to a guy at Constructo (diset), but I understand they take a while to respond.  I'm not sure if I'm missing plans, or if they really expect me to figure the recesses out from a single overhead deck plan that doesn't actually show the recess depths or heights.

 

I have finished up both cabins, and they came out ok, if nothing special.

 

There are other little bits I can continue to work on, as these pieces can be placed later (but must go in before rigging starts, as it ties off to them).

 

In other news, my "30 day back-order" on the AVS shipped later on the same day I placed it, and the website now shows that kit available instead of back-ordered.  So I guess I have an AVS in the mail about a month sooner than I expected.

[themadchemist]

Sound like maybe you are missing part of the plans. If so that's not good.

 

On my swift the bits were precut with notches, but I made some of my own using cherry from a tree we lost in a storm. Cutting and fitting those notches takes a bit of time doing it by hand, to insure a tight fit. My set were a bit larger then the kits also, but then I added the double cap rail. I'm really not a good source on following directions as I tend to break every rule there is. Oh well, it makes me happy.

 

Sound like good news of the AVS, you've just gotta love packages in the mail. 

[GuntherMT]

Yesterday I worked on the cabins, so here are a couple of pictures of that process.  I was worried that they would look very bad based on what I started with, but I think they ended up turning out alright, and will look better after finishing.

 

 

For the port holes in the cabins, I used some parchment paper and traced the plans, then held them to the side of the cabins and used a punch to set the center point of the holes for drilling.

 

 

The more I looked at the plans problem mentioned in my prior post, the more I began to think that there are probably no plans missing, Constructo just expects you to 'figure it out' without proper detail diagrams.  I also came to realize, that for these parts (bitts, pin racks), if the heights of the cross pieces weren't exactly right, nobody would ever know, so I traced them out as best I could from the plan views I had, and got to work.

 

The plans/instructions give no indication of what size hole to use for the pin racks, so I measure the belaying pins at their thickest point with calipers, and then used a slightly larger sized drill (1.7mm).

 

I was ridiculously pleased with myself when I finished my first piece of pin-rail.  It was about as perfect as I could have hoped for (pictured here next to the bitts that wasn't quite so perfect, but is ok).

 

 

My smugness ended abruptly after coming back from a dinner break, looking at the parts remaining to assemble the rest of the rack, and realizing that I'd used the wrong piece (too long) between the uprights.  Doh.  Set my pretty little pin rack section off to the side and started over. 

 

The completed pin racks didn't come out perfect, but I think they are good enough for this first run.

 

Here everything up to this point is set onto the deck in the approximate final locations.  Nothing is glued.

 

 

Pretty happy with how things are looking.  Once varnished, should fit right in.

 

Things I've learned over the last couple days:

 

- I should have purchased stock in Micro Mark (and Amazon) the day I bought this kit.

- I ordered a Dremel drill-press/work station that will be here tomorrow or Friday.  It would have been *really* helpful for the pin racks, I think I ruined about 5 pieces trying to get the holes drilled acceptably.

- I need to find a source for some scrap wood to make jigs and crap (and a building board in the future), and to drill into instead of using a perfectly good basswood block.

- The flexi-shaft attachment thingie for the Dremel is the best bleeping thing.  How did I ever use a Dremel tool without one of these?

- One skill that has remained intact after 25+ years of not touching a model; I'm still really good at using too much glue and getting it all over everything.

- Buying drill bits from #80 to #60, and from 1mm to 2mm (in .05 and .1mm increments) was a very good thing.  Should have ordered metric bits from 2mm up also, those are on order.

 

Looking a number of steps ahead, the instructions have the pin racks and other pieces set onto the deck and glued in place permanently prior to setting the masts.  It seems to me that it would be much easier to set the deck stuff in place with the masts set, than it would be to set the masts with all that stuff in the way.  Thoughts on that?  Advice welcomed.

 

Oh yea, the bitts (that's what the instructions call it anyway) where the bowsprit will mount - should it be vertical in relation to the deck, or vertical in relation to the waterline when it is mounted?  The deck has an upward sweep in that area, which would give it a slight backwards slant if mounted vertical to the deck.

 

Thanks for visiting, and please feel free to throw advice, comments, or whatever else my way.

[Blackie]

Hi Brian

For a first time timber model you seem to have got the hang of it very well.

 

From my own experience I would hold off glue fixing the deck houses etc until you have the masts i and set to the angle that you want. I have found that I am only now beginning to fit the deck furniture after the masts, shrouds, gaffs and boom. It has been a lot easier to tie the ratlines to the shrouds without the yards getting in the way. I guess that you will find the best way to suit you but start with the masts and take it from there as everything from here on is built up to and around them.

 

Good luck

Blackie

[themadchemist]

 I agree on setting the masts first.

As I stopped looking at directions over a years ago, I tend to feel that one should progress in the best manner so that your kind of working your way out. Deciding which pieces are next based on what they will obstruct and what obstructs them. I would think this would be even more important a factor on a square rig build.

 

Always remember, you can judge the quality of builder by the size of their scrap box(s). You will always be your own worst critic also. Also never underestimate the VAST difference that a finish can have on that raw wood . That's one of the reasons I love tung oil.

 

Looking at your deck filled, you should feel proud. I think you've done a Superb job. The most important part is the knowledge that you gained.

 

I guess the Amazon and MicroMark stock purchases are proof that you've decided this hobby's a keeper.

 

On the glue issue, do you use CA or PVA. For PVA I suggest getting a syringe. If you don't have access just PM me as the Admiral work in an OR and they trash all unused material that's open, due to sterile protocol. 

[GuntherMT]

Thanks for the mast advice.  It seemed kind of obvious to me that it would be better to have a clear deck to do the mast mounting, but thought maybe I was missing some important reason to mount the deck stuff first.

 

On the glue issue, do you use CA or PVA. For PVA I suggest getting a syringe. If you don't have access just PM me as the Admiral work in an OR and they trash all unused material that's open, due to sterile protocol. 

 

I'm using 95% wood glue (Titebond original).  I only use the Jet superglue when bonding a metal piece to wood or other metal.  I typically use the tip of a flat toothpick to apply the glue, and occasionally get about the right amount, but still have a tendency to feel like I'm not using enough glue when in fact I'm using too much.  Doubt that the applicator will help with that, only time, as I am slowly improving.

 

Edit: Also got a response to my email from Constructo already, and indeed I am not missing any plan sheets, they just give no details of these parts.  Getting out of the plastic model mindset and shifting into the 'figure it out and make it yourself' system that seems to be the norm for wooden ships is something that isn't coming naturally for me.

Edited September 4, 2014 by GuntherMT

[themadchemist]

That's common I think. It's tough to go from pre-formed styrene parts to (as a friend put it) "a box of sticks".
and many of us started with plastic models, typically modifying them.
Building a 68' mustang like my first car, was what got me thinking about the step up to wood and I still have a Z28 and B-17 on the shelve that will be fun projects. I mistakenly looked down on plastic kits when I first started building, then I saw what some people here were achieving with plastic and card.
I've never looked down on any type of medium, after that. Evergreen styrene has many uses on even a wooden kit, as does card stock.

Check out Dee Dee's use of dollar bills to form mast hoops and you soon start seeing everything as potential building material.
  
I remember showing a friend my build and they mentioned "oh that looks fun", then I opened the box and got the above reply.
They just couldn't believe that most everything came as rough timber and required building/making/shaping every piece by hand.
I also remember a "but they're all straight pieces, how do you make the curvy pieces" that is when explaining this hobby lost them.

This hobby seems to draw a higher developed mind that is seeking something real and tactile, you know the kind of real that isn't on "reality" TV.
The type of people that tend to not see TV as a hobby but a diversion. Personally next year will mark my first decade without TV and yet I just found this hobby less than 2 years ago. It has changed my life. I think I'd only go back to TV if there was a model ship building channel

Someone call discovery channel   Just Kidding.

It's almost strange the satisfaction one gets when, as you mentioned when you made the bitts and said
"I was ridiculously pleased with myself when I finished my first piece of pin-rail. It was about as perfect as I could have hoped for"

 

That feeling has never stopped for me since I started building and when you consider all the types of ships, you know Life just won't be long enough to get to everything we want to achieve. I always revel when I see others cross this bridge into the pleasures of this hobby.

Its a dying art-form that strangely the internet has made more accessible to us usually land locked builders.

 

The community of MSW, can never be given too much credit for their advancement of this hobby. Together we all learn more and as with any activity, the human aspect of belonging to a support group makes the undoable seem not so daunting. 
 
I'm not saying ship builders are smarter or better, just a bit more eccentric in their tastes towards what is fun.
 
I'm glad you received a quick reply from constructo. Waiting forever is isn't any fun.

[GuntherMT]

2 years without TV in November Keith.  Don't really miss it, and I certainly don't miss sending that $75 per month to the cable company for something I rarely used.

 

Not a huge amount accomplished in the last couple of days, but - First mast!

 

 

This assembly has reminded me to check the measurements on the plans - for *everything*, as I built the crows nest thing (not sure what the platform is called on this small ship) with the measurements in the instructions, instead of the measurements from the plans.  So the openings for the masts are too wide and I had to carefully put a 'step' in the sideboard things to fill that gap. 

 

A better man would have deconstructed to start over probably.  

 

One of the things that has been bugging me about this model for a while now, is that the ships wheel is not only a terrible looking cast part that appears to be completely out of scale:

 

 

..but it's also 'per the instructions' just mounted to the rear bulkhead directly with a nail.  Like so...

 

 

This just didn't seem right to me, so I spent a long time going through pictures of every sloop and schooner build I could find in the build logs here, in the tips and tricks, finished kits, and books and online.  I finally found a fairly simple ships wheel that was mounted to the rear bulkhead like this, with no rope showing, but it was mounted with a large barrel/shaft coming from the bulkhead, and the wheel was supported to the forward with an a-frame arrangement.

 

So, I sanded down a piece of dowel and drilled a hole in it, and then spent some time with a little piece of basswood, and came up with a first-time scratch build thingie on my ship I swore I would build 'out of the box' for this first time.

 

It's nothing compared to the amazing scratch build stuff on many of these builds, but after everything is stained and painted, who knows, might look halfway decent, and can't really help but be better than the little wheel stuck to the bulkhead.

 

 

I figure I can replace that cast part with something better someday if I decide I want to as well.

[themadchemist]

Congrats on the no TV, that $75 a month is a nice hobby budget.

 

The wheel looks good I like your modifications. On the wheel it may look better it you filed the white metal casting with a small file and reduced its chunkiness. It doesn't look so much out of scale as it does just plan ole PHAT.

[GuntherMT]

I'm going to sand my little wooden a-frame down a little more to expose more of the wheel, and also try to clean up the casting a bit, I haven't touched it yet.

 

On to other modifications, I was reading through Dubz Syren build (still only a bit over half-way through that, it's magnificent), and saw how the bowsprit was mounted into the bitt, and a light-bulb went on in my head.  My kit instructions just show the dowel, still rounded, glued to the hull and ending at the bitt, but after seeing how it's actually supposed to work, I've re-done my bitt (or is it bitts?) with more wood inside so that I can square off the butt end of the bowsprit and give it a nice tight home in the bitt.

 

Also continue to shop for flat black paint and am having a horrible time getting any for some reason.  I got a can of Humbrol from across town, and it's almost a solid chunk in the can when I opened it.  I bought a couple different acrylic's from Hobby Lobby today, and they are both pretty bad on a sample piece as well.  I'm at the point where I need to mount all the cast pieces on the hull, and they are all supposed to be black (I assume they used iron?).

 

On the brass parts - eye-bolts and stropping the blocks and deadeyes, the kit has all of this as brass wire, should it all be blackened, or was it actually common to use brass fittings around 1850?  I got a bottle of blackener so I can do it either way now.  Maybe I can just use the blackener on the cast fittings?

[themadchemist]

Historically the metalwork is blackened to simulate the forged steel, but some prefer letting the brass shine. Its kind of a personal thing.
 
Blackening is usually preferred to paint, but paint is less problematic.
Blackening can be a trial by fire, but E&T has done an extensive study on the process.
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6977-the-blacken-it-trials/?hl=blacken

You should check out E&T's HMS Terror log also, its another good one, along with Dubz Syren and Sherbourne. Dubz Swift is in the finished section also, which is a Pilot boat similar to Carmen

[GuntherMT]

Thank you Keith.  I may try this blackening on a bit of scrap brass and see how it works, and just blacken all the brass if that's what it should actually be.  I may have to just paint the chain-plates though, as they are already mounted to the ship, and I'm not going to pull them off for that, as they are attached with  CA and nails.

 

The AVS that I ordered expecting a mid-late October delivery showed up today.  I opened it up and took inventory, and am sort of wishing I hadn't now.  Every single thing about that kit makes the Carmen kit look cheap in comparison, and apparently, wildly out of scale.  The AVS is 1:48, while the Carmen is 1:80, yet all the little fittings (eye bolts, deadeyes, blocks, etc.) on the AVS are actually smaller (and very much sharper and better quality) than the fittings on the Carmen.  All of the wood is much nicer, and the laser cut pieces absolutely blow away the pre-cut pieces on the Carmen both in sharpness, and in the quality of wood.

 

Oh well, I still think it's looking nice and will turn into a nice looking model, but it certainly points out that there is a huge variation of quality between the two kits.  Does the quality within a specific manufacturer vary a lot as well?   I.e. is the Constructo Constitution better quality, or similar to the Carmen.  Makes me wonder for future kit purchases.

 

Finished up the 2nd mast, and have the bowsprit all shaped and fit to the bitt that I modified.

 

Edit: Eh, I'm wishy-washy.  After I blackened the cast fittings, I played with the brass a bit, and decided since the chain-plates are brass, I'm just going to leave all the brass fittings as brass to match them.  Time will tell if that's the right decision, but I've started putting in the eye-bolts, so it's decided now.

Edited September 7, 2014 by GuntherMT

[GuntherMT]

What method does everyone use to get the rigging line through the tiny little holes in the blocks?

 

As best I can measure with calipers, the provided rope is about .028" diameter for the small size.  I also have some .025" diameter rope from Syren that I am actually going to use.  Neither size rope can be threaded through the blocks without doing something to it, and if I were to try using a needle threader, it would double up the rope that is already almost the same size as the hole, so that's a non-starter.

 

I used micro drill-bits to measure the size of the holes in the blocks, and a .0292 bit (#69) will pass through the hole, not tight, but it's very close to size.  A .031 bit (#68) will not pass through the hole.  I tried soaking the rope in 50/50 white glue mix and letting it dry, but that doesn't work.  I can't even get the rope through the catshead that I've drilled to .032" (#67) with that method.

 

The only method I've found that worked so far, and the non-drilled stock blocks are still quite a challenge, is to take CA glue and dip the end of the rope into it, wait a few seconds, wipe it off, then let it harden, and then use a razor and cut the rope at an angle to use the CA section of rope itself as a needle.

 

Is this the method everyone uses, or am I missing an obvious (or not so obvious) trick of the trade here? 

 

Thanks,

[russ]

Have you opened up the holes in the blocks a bit? That and the CA trick should do the job.

 

Russ

[GuntherMT]

Russ, I opened up the holes a bit in one block, to .031 (the next bit up that doesn't currently fit), but the blocks have a frighteningly small amount of room left to do this, and I'm a bit worried about breaking them if I try to open them up much at all. 

 

Of course I've also got quite a few blocks already stropped and mounted to eyebolts in the hull and on the masts, so those will be a bit of a pain to drill out too.  Oh well, I'll keep working with it, I was just wondering if there was a 'technique' that is commonly used to thread the blocks.  In the mean time I'll continue to use the CA glue and cut method.

 

Here is the first one I managed to get threaded, along with the catshead.

[russ]

Brian:

If you use a slightly larger bit and a light hand to drill them out, you should be able to do it. However, if they are already placed in tight spots on deck, I think that might be a problem. The CA method you describe is used quite a bit. I think you are on the right track.

 

Russ

[GuntherMT]

Thanks again Russ.  I went to a .032 drill and opened up all of the double blocks that I currently have stropped, along with the catsheads.  Seemed to go okay, so I'll do that for all of the blocks I suppose.  Seems somewhat goofy that the kit gives you blocks with holes too small to use the rope that they provide, but I guess that such is the world of wooden models!

 

On to today's update.  My last post had the little modification to the ships wheel mocked up, and after I finished that I finished up the masts, and did a first dry test fit.

 

I also mentioned in one of my posts since my last update that I modified the bitt to actually do what the real bitt does, instead of just sitting on the deck straddling the bowsprit.  This was the result.  Certainly not up to the amazing standards of Dubz where I got the idea from, but it actually worked quite well to help position the bowsprit later when I mounted it.

 

Blackened the pot metal wheel after cleaning it up a bit, and began mounting the deck fittings.  I also trimmed the wheel a-frame I made down a bit, and I think it looks better now.  No rope behind the wheel, I'm going on the theory that all the actual workings for the steering gear are behind the bulkhead.  That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

 

I'll spare you the pictures of the block stropping, I'm sure everyone here has seen plenty of that.  The kit provides small copper wire to strop all the blocks, instead of the brass wire used for the deadeyes.

 

I installed the bowsprit, and then realized that I had gotten the martingale crooked while I tweaked everything, and of course it dried that way.  So, off to the store and got some acetone.  Used some cotton swabs and acetone and it broke it right free without too much difficulty after just a few minutes.  Remounted it and this time got it straight!

 

 

The kit has nothing about anything like gannoning on the bowsprit, but I thought that the pictures looked a little too bare, so I added some just because.  I really should have done a proper gannon through the top of the stem, but there isn't enough gap between the bowsprit and jib to get the rope through, and in order to slot the stem I'd have to remove the braces, so I just did one 'for looks'.  Outside of this forum, nobody looking at this ship will have a clue that it's not right anyway!

 

That picture also does a great job of showing that my hole for the bowsprit is too big.  Woops.

 

Started working on the catshead rigging.  I have no idea what sort of knot I should have used to secure the rope to the eyebolt, and the instructions are no help at all, but I just used a normal knot.  Hung a little weight on the rig to straighten the ropes out a bit and applied thinned white glue.

 

 

A week ago, my plan for the rigging was still what it was at the beginning, just do it simple like the plans show, using basic knots and glue where needed.  You might notice a terrible precedent starting on this anchor line.

 

 

I'm sure I did it wrong, and probably too much for the scale, but the seizing (or is it serving?) began here.

 

Secured the line to the cleat the same way we used to tie up the boat (spent a lot of time on a boat in my youth, both power boats and sailing), and the same way I tie off the halyard on my flagpole out front.  Not sure what it's called, but conveniently the pictures in the instructions show the same sort of tie off.  I guess the way cleats are tied hasn't really changed in hundreds of years.

 

 

Finished the other side as well.

 

 

Moved on to begin rigging the bowsprit.  The instructions say exactly nothing about how to secure the lines to the bowsprit or to the eyebolts, so I ended up just using loops, and seizing everything.  Since it's black thread, the seizing doesn't really show up, but it seemed like the best way to get things tight against a round piece of wood.  I really need to learn to tie more kinds of knots I think.

 

I had a lot of problems with the thread loosening up while I was trying to wrap it around the rope, so I ended up just using a half-hitch for every single loop of every seizing, as that kept it tight as I worked.  I don't think any of them will be coming loose now.

 

 

And finally, here is how the instructions show the anchors stowed.  Doesn't strike me as a very brilliant way to stow large iron objects on your ship, but I'll worry about whether I want to do something different with them later.

 

 

Thanks to everyone who wanders through my log, and for the likes and comments.  Always open to criticism and suggestions, even if it's too late for this build, I can always incorporate improvements in my next one!

Cheers! 

[russ]

This boat has very nice lines. Very attractive. You have done a great job so far.

 

Your bitts look good. I think that is a viable solution.

 

On the anchors, our local schooners slung the flukes over the rail and lashed them to a cleat on the inside of the bulwarks. On these small working vessels, they used what they had and made it work.

 

One thing I can point out that could be improved, but it is too late to deal with it on this model. Your chainplates should lay flat and the rub rail should go over them. Your chainplates sit over the rubrail. I made this same mistake on a past model. As I said, it cannot be corrected now, but it is important to note for the future. It does not really detract from the model's appearance. Just one of those little things.

 

Russ

Edited September 8, 2014 by russ

[GuntherMT]

Thanks Russ.

 

I really do think this ship has great lines, really surprised there aren't more examples of it here on MSW.

 

I've seen a variety of different lashing examples on anchors, I am just surprised the kit doesn't bother to do anything with them other than toss them on the deck like that.  Seems like a simple extra step to add in that bit.

 

On the chainplates, thanks.  I really wasn't sure how they should have gone, and the instructions specifically show a step for bending them to go over the rub rail (instructions call it the guard rail).  I tried to sort of form them over the rail instead of just having a gap on either side like the instructions show, but it's good to know for future that they should go under.

 

Are they typically under the rail on any ship that doesn't have the actual channel for them?

[russ]

Brian:

The chainplates would normally go under the rub rail, but that is not an absolute statement. There will always be variations, but it would make far more sense for them to go under the rub rail rather than be formed over the top of it.

 

Russ

[GuntherMT]

So I got a package in the mail today, perfect timing as I'm now starting to work on blocks in earnest in preparation for mounting the masts.

 

I've seen plenty of people talking about blackening the wire for block stroppings, and in someone's build log I saw where he was using blackened copper wire.  When I realized that all of the stroppings on the Carmen were going to be the fine copper wire in the kit, and not the brass (except for the anchors and the stern block), I got on the web and did a search, and I found this:

 

http://www.firemountaingems.com/search/copper--blacks?keywords=zebra%20wire&itemsperpage=20&sortby=bestmatch

 

I got 1 roll ea. of 20 gauge through 30 gauge black copper jewelry "Zebra" wire, and even with shipping costs, it was a whopping $16, as each roll is only about $2-$3 and that's for 30-50 yards of each size.  I ordered it on the 4th, they shipped it that day, and it arrived today, so pretty good service from them, and it comes with everything you need to return it without even requesting an RMA if you don't like what you got from them.

 

Just started working with it after work today, and I have to say it's pretty nice, it's slightly stiffer than the copper wire from the kit, so easier to work with the tiny blocks, and the coloring is very difficult to get off, it only seems to come off by scraping it with something sharp.  Gripping it firmly with pliers while twisting doesn't make it come off at all.

 

Good stuff, and while it's a small detail, I think it will be nice to not have copper colored stroppings on all my blocks.

 

[Bindy]

Hi Brian,

 

You sure do build quickly!  But even more importantly your work is great and your ship is really taking shape.  Congrats on your progress so far!

 

I have to say though, that I am particularly enjoying your log with the information, level of detail and all your pictures.  Thank you!!  I will continue watching and reading eagerly

[GuntherMT]

Thanks Bindy, too bad you can't send me some of that awesome looking cooking and peppers. 

 

Today was a big day.. 

 

Masts!

 

After giving them a chance to set and making sure they remained correctly placed, I placed the deck stuff.

 

 

Here is a shot trying to show the blocks pre-rigged to the masts before they were stepped.  I managed to put several of these in wrong, not just once, but twice.  Yea.. 

 

 

Thanks to a fantastic post with pictures by qwerty2008 here - http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7277-stropping-and-seizing/#entry214960 - I decided to try my hand at 'real' seizing on the shroud deadeyes.  Here is the first one, then the second one done before and after trimming.

 

 

I had quite an entertaining time figuring out how to hold things in order to get the top of the seizing tight.  Finally figured it out using a 'helping hands' thing along with a hemostat.  Then of course, I needed to seize the top of the shrouds, and since it's attached to the mast, it gave me a lot of trouble.  I got it done, but it's not very pretty.  Need to figure out how to keep a seizing tight where I can't hold solid amounts of tension on all the lines.  I didn't want to put a lot of stress on the mast without anything to balance it out, so wasn't able to hold a lot of tension on the lines while doing this.

 

 

Not sure how many hours a day I'll be able to stand fighting with the rigging in spots like that, it was a bear.

 

All in all, progress continues however, and while it's nothing like some of the truly amazing builds on here, I'm pretty happy with it, and will have no problem displaying it in my front room (or maybe at my office).

 

FYI - I have a bunch more pictures at much higher resolution that I'm not putting up, just sorting through them for the posts and resizing them to a reasonable size, but if anyone wants a higher resolution of something, or would like to see something that I haven't posted, feel free to ask, I might have a picture of it.

[russ]

The masts and deck furniture look great. Well done.

 

Russ

[_SalD_]

Brian,

 

Just read through your building log.  You're doing a great job. The planking, deck fixtures, and masts look terrific.  As a first time builder myself I can appreciate the effort you're putting into it.  Keep up the good work.

 

By the way, have you read all those books?

[The Sailor]

Hi Brian.

 

I think, you did a very nice job. The hull looks great and also the deck furniture is well executed. You don't have to hide your model later!