HMS Racehorse by medic - Sergal Mantua - 1:47

[medic]

Hello all,

So I'm new to the hobby having commenced approximately two weeks ago, and this is my first new post of my very first kit. So strap yourself in for the thrills and excitement that is HMS Racehorse by Medic.

I've attached the bulkheads to the keel and as the manufacturers plans suggest the fairing is only required on the first and second bulkhead. I was of the belief that nearly all the bulkheads required some level of fairing. Has anyone else out there done this kit and what was their experience.

Cheers

Medic

 

 

[medic]

Evening all,

So before I begin to commence my planking has anyone got any tips and or tricks that I should be aware of in terms of ensuring I have a nice clean line to the ends of my planks especially where they terminate along the bow. Or is placement not so important and I should rely on good old fashion sanding.

Cheers

Medic

[medic]

Hey all,

So while I'm waiting for Santa to bring me a timber vice and therefore make the process of tapering planks easier (or so the story goes) I thought I would work on some of the deck furnishings/fixtures which was actually quite fun. I even made some extra parapet bitts out of off cuts so I can take the pick of the litter when the time comes. Now I think I'll turn my attention to the anchors.

Cheers

Medic

[GuntherMT]

What is this 'timber vice' you are waiting on?  Do you have a link to one? 

 

Nice work on the deck fittings it appears.

 

Thanks!

[medic]

Thanks GuntherMT,

So here is an image of the one I've ordered. It may be known by another name however this is what the website I got it from called it. Essentially it's an elongated vice with aluminium jaws which will take longer lengths of timber. You can position the planks on an angle and shave until you have the desired angle...........or there abouts.  I got mine from the modellers Shipyard

Cheers

Medic 

[WackoWolf]

I have the same one, forget who I got it from. I am happy with it for the price and it does what it was made to do. Just my 2 cents.

[medic]

Thanks for the feedback Joe,

Having yet to "break mine in" I like hearing someone else's positive feedback.

Medic

[medic]

Hey all,

So here is my Racehorse to date. As this is my first kit and therefore my first planking attempt I'm reasonably happy but I need a little advise please.

 

I've placed a temporary plank approximately half way and am placing my planks from the top of the bulkheads to the keel. As my bow and stern planks have nearly reached this point and the middle section has a way to go what should I do to maintain the lines?

 

Anyone who has seen this kit knows that this "middle section is filled with short planks I was hoping to avoid this, but I'm  not sure I can.

Cheers

Medic

[Woodmiester12]

Hello Mark, Looking good.  Glad you are enjoying it.

Ken

[Tyrnac]

Hi Medic,

 

Nice work so far!  I too am working on the Racehorse (on and off for several years now, as work and family allow), and have the deck furniture and rigging left to go.  I'm happy to answer any questions you may have up to where my progress has stopped.  

 

As far as the kit goes, I find the instructions lacking and the parts sometimes less than optimal.  That said, you get what you pay for, and I chose this kit as it was one of the cheapest.  I figured, if I screwed it up too bad, I'd give it a Viking funeral at sea.  So far, it has not come to that.  Good thing there are so many experienced builders here to show the way!

 

This is my first model too, and I chose to take it slow and try to learn while I go.  As such, I treated the first planking as a primer on how to plank, so that my second planking would look good.  Feel free to screw up as much as you'd like on the first planking, as no one will ever see it!  You can sand any bumps to oblivion, and if you mis-fared any of the bulkheads, after you finish the first planking is a great time to use sandpaper and filler to make things right.  You've hit the point where you will either have to start spilling planks, or start reducing the width from full at midship down to half original at the prow and stern.  I chose the latter route with decent results.   

 

Please let me know if you have more questions and I will do my best to answer them.  There is also a nice build log from Zyxuz here:

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1732-hms-racehorse-by-zyxuz-sergal-scale-147/?hl=racehorse

 

Cheers, and good luck!

Tony

[medic]

Hey Tony,

Thanks for your feedback. I'm with you mate and chose the latter method of planking. I've completed the first planking and am ready for sanding. I want to post some pre and post sanding pics so stay tuned.

 

As this is my first kit it appears to me and I'm sure you'll agree that unlike other sharp bow kits, Racehorse is quite "bulbous" about a third of it's way from bow to stern. So the lines that attracted me to this kit (as well as the price for a first kit) amplifies the challenges. 

 

Did you choose to apply a clear varnish and let the natural colours of the walnut do the work or have you opted for a stain?

 

I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions come rigging as for a new modeller to this medium the plans / instructions leave a lot to be desired in terms of interpretation. Is this reflective of this manufacturer?

Cheers

Medic

[Tyrnac]

I opted to finish the wood with tung oil, and I have been really pleased with the results so far.  It really adds a nice luster to the walnut.  I'll try to post some before and after pics sometime soon.

 

Keep any and all questions coming!

[medic]

Here is the completed first layer of planking pre sanding. I am reasonably happy as this is my very first build.

Cheers

Medic

Edited January 27, 2015 by medic

[medic]

And here is my post sanding and filling pics.............all set for second layer. Any last minute tips and advice welcome. The 0.5mm veneer of the second layer of walnut planks seems to wrap around the hull quite well. Is there a need to  bend these planks manually as per the first layer?

Cheers

Medic

Edited January 27, 2015 by medic

[Keith_W]

Looking good, Medic. Great job if it's your first build! Probably no need to steam bend the second layer of planking unless the bend is very severe, e.g. there are some sharp angles at the stern of your ship. Maybe 3-4 planks a most. You will need to taper the planks as you did with your first layer, though. 

 

Incidentally, are you an MD? I'm an oncologist. 

[dgbot]

Keep up the good work Medic. On your second planking you will be using thinner material so it will be a little easier. Apply what you have learned from the first planking and you should have no problems. If you can get your hands on a couple of books on planking that will help to make things easier.

David B

[medic]

Thanks for the feedback Keith and David. I really value the feedback from more experienced modellers such as yourself. I have been a modeller for about 30 years but this is certainly my first attempt at period ships. I start Nov 2014 when I joined the forum.

 

I plan on using white carpenter's glue as for the first layer. I read where some guys use CA or contact glues on the second layer but I feel I need a little more "play time" to ensure things are working.

 

I'm actually a nurse, the medic bit come from 20yrs Army Medical Corps

Cheers

Medic

Edited January 27, 2015 by medic

[Keith_W]

Medic, I prefer to use PVA glue when possible. But when I have to negotiate tight bends, I prefer using thick CA with spray on accelerant. The thick CA prevents the glue from running all over the place - it's more gel than liquid. Apply sparingly, attach your planks, then use the accelerant. The reason I don't use this 100% is because CA joints are brittle and not as strong as PVA joints. And it's more expensive. 

[Tyrnac]

I used CA occasionally (often at the stem, when I was in a rush), but tended to use PVA and pressure whenever possible.  You will need to narrow some planks, and you will find the thinner walnut will be much easier to work with - though brittle!

Edited January 27, 2015 by Tyrnac

[medic]

Thanks guys laying first walnut plank today

Cheers

Medic

[monkeyman]

Hey, mate! I'm not a professional modeller either, but I think you did good with raw planking. I just want to say, that you shouldn't worry too much of the final result. It may look ugly when raw, but it'll look much, much better, when you do some finishing stuff like sanding, using wood fillers or paint. I did a couple kits myself (never finished tho) and it was always the same: "Oh, god, it sucks! How do they do it THAT perfect?!" turns into "Huh... looks good! I'm the king of the world!". Just be a bit patient, my friend :-)

Edited January 27, 2015 by monkeyman

[medic]

Thanks for the support monkeyman,

To be honest I'm just concentrating on the here and now with this being my first build. If I was to flip the plans over now and see what I have left to do I think I would just lay in the corner in the foetal position...................ignorance is bliss.

Cheers

Medic

[GuntherMT]

I used nothing but PVA for my 2nd planking Medic.  If you are patient and make sure everything fits right, you should be able to do just fine without using CA.

 

As far as steaming goes - just use whatever works to make your planks fit.  For many of my 2nd planking I used nothing.  For some I just used heat, and for a few at the stern I used both water and heat (effectively steaming).  I just played it by ear and used what worked for the specific plank I was working with.

Good luck, looking forward to seeing how nice you make it!

[medic]

Cheers Brian,

First few walnut planks now in situ. For everyone who responded thanks, I am to date managing with the PVA I am just using hand pressure till the glue goes off as I found the walnut really brittle and it splint when I tried to tack it. Is the hand pressure I mentioned adequate or is there a better technique?

Cheers

Medic

Edited December 27, 2015 by medic

[medic]

Well it seems to have been ages since my last post, and all I've done is watch everyone elses build logs. Having said that I knew my first kit was going to be slow. But I have finally completed the second layer of planking on my Racehorse. I'm debating the option of a light stain or clear finish and would be happy for some opinions.

 

My biggest concern relates to conditioning the timber to allow better uptake of any subsequent coats of stain and varnish. Can anyone give me an idea of a good product to use, I've seen a few examples of a mottled finish and albeit this is my first kit I'd prefer not to go down that path.

Cheers

Medic

Edited December 27, 2015 by medic

[S.Coleman]

An absolute beautiful planking job! As for the finishing a lot of people use a wipe on poly. I try to stay away from varnish as it can be too glossy for my liking .

[Seventynet]

Hi Medic, super planking job! I plan to use wipe on poly for my second planking. I have used hand pressure to hold down the planks until the PVA holds, except at extreme bend areas where I used elastic bands and erasers, and very occasionally screw clamps. I've haven't had a single plank pop over six months, so that's some proof that the technique works.

Best, Ian

[medic]

Hey guys,

Thanks for your support. As it's my first kit I'm never really sure if it's was any good. So what's this 'wipe on poly' and where do I get it? Is it an acrylic base as I'm planning on painting the blue using Vallejo acrylics.

Cheers

Medic

Edited December 27, 2015 by medic

[S.Coleman]

I'm sure Bunnings will have some even maby smaller hardware stores. It's mostly regarded for finishing woods. Looks better. I don't think it's acrylic tho. Best of luck

[Seventynet]

Medic, I think this is what a lot of people use: http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_0_19?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=minwax+wipe-on+poly&sprefix=minwax+wipe-on+poly%2Caps%2C260

 

And it's oil-based.

Edited December 27, 2015 by Seventynet