Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log

[Martin W]

Here you go, Dave:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1048-rattlesnake-by-martin-w-mamoli-kit-bashed-164/

 

I'm not the most disciplined keeper of build logs, so you'll see plenty of details skipped over.  I also believe there are some pictures missing; Jon was good enough to recover them and send them to me, but I haven't found the time to put them back in.  Still, you might have some interest in seeing someone go through the same process as you.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[DocBlake]

Very slow progress due to outdoor projects commissioned by the Admiral.  I've finished framing the gun ports in swiss pear.  Next up is cutting the oar sweeps.  I laid out the sweep ports and found that two of them fell directly on the kit bulkheads.  Not wanting to remove those bulkheads because the plywood is very hard and I need them for supporting the planking, I relocated  three of the sweep ports.  The last one aft was moved forward from where the Hahn plans call for by about 8 scale inches.  Port  #4 from the bow had to move the most: 2-1/2 scale feet aft.  Port #3 was moved 8" back.  I cut out little squares of pin striping tape and attached them to show the sweep locations.  Overall I think the placement is pleasing to the eye if not strictly correct according to Hahn's plans.

Edited June 26, 2015 by DocBlake

[GuntherMT]

Coming along nicely Dave.  For a profile scraper, I used a single-edged razor blade and just cut the profile with Dremel cut-off wheels.  I mounted the razor in a vise and hand-held the Dremel.  

 

To cut the profile into the wood, I just hand held the wood and scraper and run it down the wood repeatedly with only light pressure.  Would need something narrower than the normal cut-off wheel if I wanted to make anything other than a single line profile though.

[DocBlake]

Thanks, Brian.

[JSGerson]

I don't remember if I had the interference problem with the oar sweeps you described. but your solution would have been the same as I would have done (did?).

 

Here is something else to consider at this point - the hull sheaves. Bob Hunt 's practicum discusses these much later (Chapter 9.7) as a simple add-on and look rather crude. I didn't even know they existed or what they were at this point in my build. However if I had known, this would have been the time to construct them or at least plan for them. Bob's method was to just drill a single hole in a small thin rectangular piece of wood and through the completed hull. This is actually a block built into the hull. It has a wide opening, a pulley wheel inside,.and is flush to the hull. Once I realized what they were, I tried to make mine at least look like they were built in.

 

They are probably numerous ways to construct these, but one method is to drill two holes in a rectangular block whose thickness is a little bit thicker than the completed hull. The openings (both sides) are then carved to simulate a block. It is installed in the proper position in the hull frame. Once the planking is completed around it (inside and out) the excess wood is sanded down flush to the hull surface.

 

Jon

[DocBlake]

Jon, thanks for the heads-up on the sheaves.  I'll look into it.

[DocBlake]

I cut the oar sweeps into the bulkhead planking.  They turned out OK despite being a little "off" from the Hahn plans.

[scott larkins]

Starting to look like a real ship now.

[DocBlake]

After cutting the sweep ports I turned my attention to the main rail and swiss pear molding (for the quarterdeck bulwarks).  The practicum calls for a molding cut with a razor blade into which is ground the 3 bead profile.  This is then used like a molding plane to "scratch" the profile into the wood.  I tried a dozen times to get the 3 bead configuration right, and failed each time.  The problem is the the molding strips are .075" X .075", pretty small!  So I copped out and did the easy thing:  I cut the molding to have 2 beads, not 3.  In the end, no one will notice! (except me!).  The photos show the practicum molding and the blade used to cut it as well as the blade I used to produce the 2 beaded molding.  On my razor blade is a profile for the 3 bead molding that didn't cut well at all.  I used the profile to the extreme right.  Shown are two moldings: one in swiss pear, the other in holly.

[JSGerson]

You had the same results as me on those moldings. Your triple molding doesn't look too bad from what I can see except the grooves aren't as pronounced as the double - same as I got. Those wooden molded surfaces are very delicate and will dent real easy. I immediately used a couple coats of poly-wipe to saturate the wood to protect them.

[GuntherMT]

I gave up on the double and went with a single notch on my AVS for the same reasons you state Doc.  Given that the trim wasn't supposed to have a moulding cut at all, it still came out just fine, and yours looks great.

[DocBlake]

I assembled the 14 oar sweep frames off the model.  They will now be glued in place on the outer bulwark planking and then be faired along with the gun port frames and the kit bulkheads prior to adding the inner bulwark planking.

[DocBlake]

All the sweep ports have been installed.  I also installed the main rail and the planking above it on the port side.  It's starting to look like a ship!

[jdbradford]

Dave,

 

How many shipyards can you man at one time???   LOL

 

This is another great build by you and I want to build this one too someday.

 

Jeff

[DocBlake]

Jeff:  I helps to be retired, which I have been for 6 months.  I run a consulting business from home, so when I go to the "office" I'm still really near the shipyard!

[DocBlake]

I ran into another big problem, and it's the damn transom again!  That structure has caused more grief than the rest of the build combined.  When I completed the planking above the wales, I realized that my planking did not extend up high enough over the completed transom planking.  The space would have been fitted with stanchions and a rail.  I thought I had the angle of the transom to the counter correct when I glued it in place, but I was off a bit.  The transom should have been angled a little more from the vertical than I left it.  The result was that the planking of the quarterdeck bulwark is too "low" relative to the transom.  No room for a rail!  I've enclosed a photo of my transom and quarterdeck bulwark planking as well as one from Bob Hunt's practicum.  You can easily see how much "taller" the quarterdeck bulwark planking is on Bob's model.  I'm open to suggestions, but I think the only solution is to cut down the transom planking a bit like the photo with the blue line suggests.  This will have to be carefully measured and drawn out to accommodate the stern carvings to come later.  Any other solutions?

[JSGerson]

I feel for you. As you know, I had problems with the transom as well.

 

Now I don’t know if this had anything to do with your problems, I documented a correction I had to make that the Practicum did not address. If you look at the image of the transom on Hahn’s plans, you are looking at a foreshortened view. A true view would be perpendicular to the face of transom. As a result, if you made your transom template directly from the Hahn plans, it was too short. I looked back over your build log and didn’t see anything where you addressed this (at least in the log).

 

A first glance, your transom, as compared to Mr. Hunt’s appears to be installed higher. I counted the planks below your transom windows and got five, the same as Mr. Hunt’s. On my model, I ended up with four. I think if you had four planks, the transom would shift down giving more room at the top. If you made the mistake I described above and corrected it, then that would make the transom taller and also force you to increase the angle from the vertical.

 

I don’t know if I helped or hindered you. Do what you have to otherwise you won’t feel right about the model. I’m not saying make it perfect, but make it something that you can accept and live with.

 

Good luck

 

Jonathan

[mrshanks]

Man that's a tough situation Dave.  I think Jonathan might be onto some clues for you to explore.  If anyone can fix it, you can!!!  Keep going!!

[DocBlake]

Thanks for the comments, guys.  Jonathan:  I did compensate for the foreshortened view on the Hahn plans.  My problem is that I got the angle of the transom in reference to the counter wrong.  The transom should lead even further aft (from the vertical).  The result, had I done it, would have been a "shorter" transom with more of the quarterdeck bulwark planking above the level of the transom.  If I measure the Hahn plans, the distance from Frame #28 (Mamoli bulkhead 8) to the aftermost point on the transom is 6-5/8".  This is the length of the top quarterdeck bulwark plank.  On my model that distance is 6-5/16".  5/16" too short!  The only solution now (other than starting over!) is to cut down the height of the transom as I indicate in the drawing.  I'll have to make some adjustments also when I fit the quarterdeck deck clamps.

[JSGerson]

Dave, I'm sure you can make the necessary fixes and most people won't know the difference. Be aware however, there may be ripple effects as a result of the repair down the line as I found out when I compensated for my mistakes. Once your fix is made you will have to check everything from that point forward for fit because now you have deviated from the plans. One of the results of my troubles with the transom was the rudder. I really didn't have much room for the rudder post. It came out of the deck a bit too close to the transom wall, so again I had to be a bit creative.

[DocBlake]

Jonathan:  I think that the fixes and modifications that creep into each of these builds is part of the allure.  You're right, of course.  Everything will need to be checked and double-checked, especially at the stern end.  I know that the deck clamps have already become an issue, and the rudder post may be also.  But fixing these things is part of the game, right?  It does cause heartburn, though.  And in the end, people won't know the difference.  But as you and I have said many times in build logs : "I will!".

[Martin W]

But not only Will You know that there were issues, you'll also know how cleverly you dealt with them. 

 

Your progress looks really good.

 

Martin

[donrobinson]

Hi Dave,

 

 I was just wondering how the Rattlesnake is coming, or are you just working on the AVS. This is such a good looking build I was hoping to see more of it. Your AVS is coming along great by the way

[DocBlake]

Hi Don.  I've been consumed by the AVS, but the Snake is sitting near my work area and I may start in again .  I took a break because of frustration over the stern of the ship, but I agree, she's a pretty ship and the model deserves to be finished.  Hopefully soon.  Thanks for the kind words, by the way!

[KenW]

Another great build.  Since I building a Rattlesnake, I will be following this closely.  I'm behind you so my questions may be 'out of date'.

So, How did you cut the razor blade for shaping the molding?

Thanks.

[JSGerson]

Maybe I can answer that question for you Ken, per the instructions in Bob Hunt's practicum he states:

 

Two vital items are needed; a single edge razor blade and some very thin cutting disks. I'm not talking about those fat disks that Dremel makes for their Dremel tool. I'm talking about wafer thin disks. You can purchase these disks from a company called [Dedeco] International, Inc. Their address is Rt 97, Long Eddy, NY 12760 and their phone number is (914) 887-4840. You will need their super thin separating discs. You can buy a package of 25 (#5173) or 100 (#5183) and they also sell shanks for these thin discs.

 

You might be able to get something like these elsewhere but this is where I got mine.

 

He also states:

You use your Dremel tool with the fine cutting disk in it to cut the profile into the razor blade. These disks are very fragile and easy to break so be careful and wear some eye protection.

 

I can confirm, they are very fragile if you apply any pressure on the face of the cutting disc.

Edited November 7, 2015 by JSGerson

[KenW]

Thanks Jonathan. 

And I will have to keep an eye on my stern height.  I'm about ready to address the stern.  I can't put it off much longer.  I'll have to count planks and watch the angles using the Hahn plans (as well as the ones with the kit.)

Cheers.

[DocBlake]

That transom angle is critical...and there is no easy way to get it right,  It also creates a very fragile joint until it's beefed up on the sides.  Go slow and carefully.  It will turn out.  See earlier in my log what can happen back there!  Jonathan had problems too.