HMS Victory by Dominic - Constructo - 1/96

[fifthace]

Hi Dolly. Welcome back to the hobby

 

Feel free to chime in whenever you like, if I can help I would be happy to. You should also check out Paul's log of the same kit, he is much further along than I am and is doing a natural finish, to say nothing of his skill being far better than mine:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6684-hms-victory-by-paul-bell-constructo-scale-1-94-first-wooden-ship-build/

 

Monkeyman, depends on how you define caulking on models, technically none of them are actual caulking...well not unless someone uses actual tar between the planks lol. Yes there are gaps, but the resolution of my camera and the contrasting colours exaggerate them. In reality we're talking around 0.2mm gap. (Although there are some area's where the planks wandered a little wider, but even then no more than 0.4 or 0.5mm).

 

When veiwed with the naked eye it's not noticeable that there is actually a gap. It takes practice to perfect, and this is only my second attempt, a few more decks under my belt and I should be able to get the gaps to an absolute minimum

 

Visualy, it looks very similar to the real thing, which did have gaps, of course for the tar to sit:

 

 

 

Edited January 30, 2015 by fifthace

[monkeyman]

Monkeyman, depends on how you define caulking on models, technically none of them are actual caulking...well not unless someone uses actual tar between the planks lol. Yes there are gaps, but the resolution of my camera and the contrasting colours exaggerate them. In reality we're talking around 0.2mm gap. (Although there are some area's where the planks wandered a little wider, but even then no more than 0.4 or 0.5mm).

 

When veiwed with the naked eye it's not noticeable that there is actually a gap. It takes practice to perfect, and this is only my second attempt, a few more decks under my belt and I should be able to get the gaps to an absolute minimum

 

 

Damn, indeed I never thought of resolution! Guess it's not really inportant and noticable in this scale. The only thing that bugs me is sanding. What if you try to sand this "gapped" planks? Won't they chaotically fill your 0.2 mm craks and spoil them?

[fifthace]

Damn, indeed I never thought of resolution! Guess it's not really inportant and noticable in this scale. The only thing that bugs me is sanding. What if you try to sand this "gapped" planks? Won't they chaotically fill your 0.2 mm craks and spoil them?

 

Make sure everything is dry, check it is dry, check it again, leave it overnight, check again.

 

Sand lightly, blow, sand lightly, blow, and repeat...if you're wife or otherwise good partner has one of those big soft blusher brushes, swipe it, they are excellent for removing dust and the like.

[fifthace]

Evening.

 

Making these ammunition racks was more tricky than I first though. I had several, well 8 to be exact, failed attempts at making them. Eventually I managed to make by the following method:

 

Firstly I got the lengths of 2x3mm I needed ready, simple enough:

 

 

Next, using some spare veneer I made myself a template, with small holes drilled through at 4mm intervals. Should have been 3mm really but I felt the earlier test results looked too cluttered.

 

 

Using this, I created a further template with larger holes, using the same 1.5mm bit I would be using on the final racks:

 

 

Using that, I clamped it to each piece in turn and used a pencil to mark the position of the cavities:

 

 

Using my mitre box as a makeshift vice I drilled in about 1mm on the holes I had marked:

 

 

And after some sanding and tidying up, curved the two ends and stained with Oak, and fixed the shot in place. There didn't appear to be any included with the kit so I used some spares:

 

 

Repeated this process for the remainder and finally fixed in place on the deck. Thats this deck pretty much complete except for the cross beam:

 

 

 

 

 

[monkeyman]

Looks good, but I guess you could've just drilled smaller holes thru the planks and glue the cannon balls on top. On this scale it shouldn't be noticable, I think, but in general could be easier to implement. Never did this myself, so just guessin...

Edited January 31, 2015 by monkeyman

[fifthace]

Thanks. I did consider that, but from looking at photo's from the Vic in Portsmouth the shot were quite inset, yes as you say at this scale it wouldn't have been noticeable...but I would know.

 

It's one of those things, ya know, like when I used to make model cars, I used to paint and detail all of the engines even though in most of them it was under a closed bonnet (hood) so would never been seen, but I would know.

[monkeyman]

Yes, that "I would know" feeling is what messes with us mostly :-)

I also look at my projects and tell myself "there's a problem here and there", but any 3rd party viewes never notice them. But hey, I'm a perfectionist too!

[fifthace]

Not really much to report yet, with the previous deck finished I've begun work on the main external deck, sprayed black as before.

 

Now I am  just prepping planks. I've worked out I will need app 136 planks, which means 544 holes to drill

[shihawk]

Just found your log , Glad to see you back and with a Vic . Fantastic job so far and some great ideas ,i hope you don,t mind if i borrow a few ? 

 

Boyd .

[fifthace]

Thanks

 

And of course not, that's why I share them. And also I know my methods are unorthodox, I think outside the box a little. (Mainly cos I can't fit in the box haha).

 

I have cut and drilled 70 planks so far, (280 holes), another 70 planks and another 280 holes to go......

[Gundorph]

Go Go Go Go... Looks superb... Great skills..

[fifthace]

Thanks

 

I've been planking the main deck the last few days, not posted anything as it's only stuff I've already covered for this build.

 

However the deck is now in place clamped whilst the glue dries. Once that is done I will fix the main cabin walls and see about detailing them as the kit doesn't provide for this.

 

 

[Dolly]

Hi Dominic, just checking that you use the oak satin wood stain for all the decks, cheers Dolly.

[fifthace]

Dolly I did yes in the end. I was planning on using a different stain for the external decks, to show that they would be weathered more than the internal decks, but realised I had already done the small deck at the bow (not sure of the name), Oak Satin as well so had to stick with it.

[Dolly]

I think the colour looks good I'll be off to Homebase tomorrow to buy. Would you recommend separate stain then gloss rather than the tins which combine the two together, Dolly.

[fifthace]

Well, I always use a flat or satin stain rather than a stain/gloss combination, firstly because one coat is rarely enough to give a decent gloss shine, meaning more coats of the stain is needed increasing the effect of the stain. IE making it darker for example where you may not want it darker. Also using a flat or satin leaves you with the option of adding a gloss topcoat for the shine IF you want it.

 

Where I can, I use a flat or satin stain brushed on and then a clear gloss varnish spray, also from B&Q. If I can't use the spray then just the clear gloss from the same range as the stain.

 

As a rule I would only use these stains on the decks or outer hulls. For smaller detailing I tend to stick with the Admiralty stains and a decent flat brush.

Edited February 3, 2015 by fifthace

[fifthace]

Hello.

 

With the main deck in place, next task was to plank the grand cabin walls. Like Paul did on his build, I decided to detail this. I am surprised the kit doesn't provide for detailing this section, I have seen Vic kits at far smaller scales/qaulity/price have this detailing, however crude or innacurate.

 

To start with, I placed the false walls and added some supports for the outer corners behind them.

 

After expermimenting with various wood I had in stock, I started adding the frame work, starting with 6 larger "columns" for the internal/external corners. My detailing wont be strictly accurate but will be as close as I can get at my skill level.

 

Once they were in place I started on the rearmost wall, with the vertical uprights between panels/doors. Then the lowest horizontal beams. I used a thicker wood for the beveled, panels, adding the bevel as best I could. Would have preferred wood the same tone as the rest but as I would be staining it didn't matter a great deal.

 

I've kept to working on one central panel so I could finish one to give me a baseline reference for the rest. I added the centre and upper horizontal beams, and finally the window frame itself. These were literally slivers trimmed delicately off the wood I was using for the frames.

 

Finally, a coat of Admiralty Oak stain.

 

Pics below:

 

[fifthace]

OK small update:

 

The cabin walls/doors I was working on about...I did complete that back wall, and wasn't happy so I've just spent the last hour ripping it all out, as much as I could, and frabricating new false panels to replace the ones damaged as a result, on the plus side they are fitted to my build, not the plans, so take into account subtle differences and so on.

 

Plus, I can work on the cabin walls off-ship which will make it much easier

[fifthace]

Good Afternoon.

 

I've been busy the last few days, remaking the cabin walls and have finally finished them

 

I wont go into detail on the process, although have taken step by step photos so you can see the general process I took. They aren't perfect by any stretch but they are a damn sight better than the standard kit.

 

The last photo shows them installed on deck with my own scratch made knees for that bit of extra detail.

 

[Gundorph]

Looks very very good...

[Mike Dowling]

Only just found your new log Dom !! Looks like you are doing rather well. I will be interested to follow it and to know your opinion about Constructo kits, I think you may know what mine are.

 

Anyway, I will be keeping my eye on you in case you need my help !!!!!!!

[Dolly]

Hi Dominic, do you ever nail the decks into place or do you find glue and clamping is fine, Dolly.

[fifthace]

Hi Dolly.

 

It all depends on the kit, the materials being used, the level of curveature etc. I do a lot of dry testing first though. If I think that glue alone isn't going to be enough then I would fit the false deck pieces before planking, to obviously ensure the pins aren't visible.

 

If I feel that glue alone will be enough, my personal experiences tells me about 75% of the time it is, then I would plank off-ship and then glue/clamp.

There is no right or wrong answer here, it's down to as I said the kit and the wood and so on...and your own intuition.

One example when I was building my aborted DeAg Victory (basically a canibalized AL kit), I found that pinning the decks down was required.

[thomaslambo]

Hi Dominic,

 

I’m new to this forum and model ship building but I've been building some sort of model for the better part of 45 years.

 

I’m reading many threads on this forum but paying particular attention to a few of my favorite ships; the HMS Victory, the HMS Bounty, the Cuddy Sark.

 

Build threads like yours are invaluable to beginners like myself so I really appreciate the time you take to maintain the posts.  

 

You have a great start on your HMS Victory.  I really like the technique you used for deck planking (the black paint on the false deck with spacing as well as the method you used to drill tree nail holes….very creative as well as efficient).

 

I look forward to following your progress.

 

Boyd T 

[Dolly]

Hi Dominic, waiting for the middle deck to set so looking ahead a bit. I can't seem to find the length to cut the steps, I assume that if the stairs have to be 20ml wide so the steps would be approximately 18 ml, is this about right. So many different sizes of wood I'm bound to use the wrong bits at some stage. Followed your decking procedure with the holes and slight gap, very pleased with results, regards Dolly.

[fifthace]

Hiya Dolly.

I am not 100% certain of the measurements off hand now, but to work it out I measured the internal width, (inside the frame), deducted the "total" width of the two stair side peices then took 2mm away from that. (The notches are only about 1mm into the sides, though check this as on mine they weren't all even.

 

I've had a busy week or so, so not been able to post an update for a while, however I am quite a way through the planking of the hull so far

[fifthace]

Hiya, just a quick photo update on the progress of the planking. Need to do some filling between the planks on the second row of lighter coloured ones...made the silly mistake of glueing whilst wet

 

 

 

[AndyW]

Just found your log Dom, great start.

 

One question, what diameter cannon balls did you use 2mm?

 

Any luck on the stern decoration as in finding a casting?

 

Well two in the end

[fifthace]

I believe they are 2mm yes. They were from an old AL vic kit.

 

Stern decs...None. Zero. Zip. I may have to put up with the flat PE ones or try to scratch make some, not a task I relish.

 

This, along with my others is on hold at the moment anyway while I pursue some other projects.

Taking a well needed break as I've come across a major issue which I believe Paul came across as well, with marking the gunports. The plans are amazingly vague with nothing I can accurately use as a starting ref point, just going by the plans as is causes the majority of the ports to hit ribs, and we're not talking half a mm either some are smack in the middle...

[AndyW]

Is it to do with hull curvature that throws the measurements off when related to the plans?

 

Oh the joys of what I have to look forward to

 

Busy studying stacks of reference material and making notes.

 

Had been wondering if I could "build" the etchings up then guild them, got plenty of leaf.

 

Need to ask Paul if he went the caldercraft route or what difference size wise by using the Mantau 1/98 castings that are available.