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Scottish Maid by mrangus - Artesania Latina - first build


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I think epoxy will work as a lot of the other guys are getting good results with it, using it for other deck-fittings like stanchions and windlasses, along with a pin for extra holding power, as well.

GEORGE

 

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Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

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Looks great!

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks gents.

 

Jesse - did you consider building a different mast platform? My kit doesn't have the crosstrees, that is part of the prefab that went missing from my kit. (I'm sure that it will show up in one of my daughter's buckets in the distant future.) I most likely will use the kit design since I have the scale plans.

 

George, you always have good ideas - what are your thoughts?

 

I'm also a bit perturbed by the foremast chains on starboard side. They don't look right - will address when I start with the shrouds. Ugh. I don't mind moving them, I just cringe trying to fill the holes.

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Well Robb I don't have any easy way out for you and from looking at a pic I Googled, I say you'll end up having to scratch-build those pieces. Shouldn't be too bad if the plans show the 1:1 view of the cross trees. The up-side is that there's only 2, as opposed to a 3-masted square-rigger.  :D

 

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GEORGE

 

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Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

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Robb, I had to fabricate my own. The parts supplied by the kit did not fit right. They made the mast pieces spaced too far apart. It was a little frustrating. I looked up other builds & it seems no two are alike since there are no real records of the Scottish Maid's plans. I did the best I could to make them spaced like the plans show. This was a regular problem with this kit. As you've seen with the chain plates there was a lot of stuff just not done right in this kit. If you look hard enough you will even find two different rigging plans- who knows which one is right? I went with the kit plan but afterwards wished I had done the other one.

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

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Look up the Scottish Maid build by guillemot. It is one of the best SM builds I've ever seen- I leaned heavily on that build for help with mine. He went with the alternate rigging plan.

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks George. I recognize that ship - that's the one that Ian Lawrence built, I have referred to his web site and build history a number of times. I will give it a go - will use the pear wood I purchased not too long ago. Shapes very nicely.

 

Jesse - I'm a little intimidated by the whole rigging process, but I hope that logic will prevail. I looked around for the guillemot build but couldn't find it. Any ideas?

 

For the ship: Catheads!

 

It took me a few tries to get the sheaves right, very difficult to drill a straight hole four times but managed to get the hang of it. I used the brass pins to line up the second cathead sheaves (see pic) which worked great. Also tried adding a little more detail at the end of the block, but no carving the cat head - not on this ship. :)

 

 

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Nice shot of the deck!  She looks great!  You've done really well so far Robb, and I have no doubt when the rigging comes around, you'll manage nicely.

 

Cheers

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

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It's looking great, and I hate to point this out after you made such nice straight holes, but I've never seen catheads with the sheaves that way.  They would typically run 'along' the cathead, not side to side.  Like this:

 

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Of course, there are exceptions to every rule, so maybe this is the correct way for this particular ship?  If you are happy with the way they look, chances are that very few people who aren't into this hobby will ever notice, but I wanted to point it out now, before you get further along in case you decide a re-do is in order.

 

Good luck!

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Funny that you say that Brian. I remember looking at the exact picture you posted above and loved how precise/realistic it looks. I stressed over what to do for a while and looked at several models. The picture in the (lame) kit instructions show the sheaves going in the direction that I built. Most of the SM models that are posted have the rigging going this way as well - there was one model by Ian Lawrence (on his own site) that had the sheaves going in the direction that you describe and illustrate above. (That's where I got the cap idea from for the ends of the catheads.) It looked good but what I didn't like about it was the end line was attached to the outside of the ship. That didn't make sense to me.

 

So after a long think about it, I succumbed to the model instructions. Jesse did it this way as well and thought it looked good.

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Cool, I've just never seen one rigged that way, so it looked 'wrong'.  Certainly doesn't mean it is, as I'm sure there are a bunch of ways to do things 200+ years ago that I've never seen either.  As long as you like it, then it's perfect!

 

 

It looked good but what I didn't like about it was the end line was attached to the outside of the ship. That didn't make sense to me.

 

 

For my catheads & the end line, what isn't complete in the photo I posted is another hole just behind the sheaves (I had forgotten to drill it before the picture).  The rope starts at this hole with a stop knot, then runs down through a double block with the hook, then back up to the first sheave, then back down to the double block then back up to the second sheave and then is belayed to a cleat or timber head on the bulkhead.

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Sorry, he used different names. My computer wont copy links on this site for some reason. Look up : Scottish Maid by Fraser - Hall's 1839 Clipper Schooner

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

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Oh right Jesse - the little mini-one in the carved water. That ship is AMAZING. unbelievable the detail at such a small scale. and all hand built too. Thanks for reminding me sometimes its easy to get caught up in the 'get-it-done' process.

 

Brian, what you describe makes a lot of sense and from a realistic perspective I'm sure it would be a lot easier to manufacture a pulley system in the direction you describe rather than what the model provides. Hoisting out of the water would be a bit easier too. However.... it took me 2+ hours on the two cathead anchor pieces so.... I think I'll stick with it :)

 

Thx

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That's one area I didn't check out on my build. Don't know if it is right or wrong. That's the problem with this ship. All the records were lost to fire- not much to go on now.

Edited by JesseLee

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

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Looking awesome Robb! The catheads and bowsprit look great!

Matt - aka The Squirrel Whisperer

 

Current builds - Benjamin W. Latham by Matt

 

Competed builds - USS Ranger by Matt

HMS Bounty Launch by Matt

18th Century 10" Sea Mortar by Matt

18th Century Naval Smoothbore by Matt

 

Future builds - Willie L. Bennett Chesapeake Bay skipjack (MS) Half Moon (Corel) Emma C Berry Lobster Smack (MS)US Brigantine Eagle (Corel) New Bedford Whaleboat (MS)

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Thanks Matt and Don. I'm not going to put the anchors on until later. I may re-do the cathead sheaves, it still bothers me that it looks like they go the wrong direction.

 

Not much to show, just working on the cross trees for the masts. I had to mill my own 5.5mm planks and create the components by hand. Just a lot of measuring, cutting and sanding. One thing that I don't understand so well. I've seen a lot of different methods for attaching the shrouds to the masts. What is typically done? are there two lines that come down from one loop that goes over the mast, or is it individual loops for each shoud line? Done both ways? it's very confusing. Also it looks like all those rings need to go on the mast before the top part it added. what are those for?

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A lot of the shrouds I've seen, like on my own plans are 2 lines,going to the same side, and one hoop, then repeat for the other side. But for your ship, I'd follow what the rigging plans say to do, because they are not all alike, and are probably different. 

 

Cheers 

GEORGE

 

MgrHa7Z.gif

 

Don't be bound by the limits of what you already know, be unlimited by what you are willing to learn.

 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

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That's how I did it- 2 lines-one loop

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks guys. Looking closely at the plans and lots of examples, I will follow your lead. run line up, loop, line down for two of the shrouds. and make kinda fancy loop to hang over the mast.

 

Getting to the foremast. It's really exciting, get to see the real height this ship is going to have. I put on for a test look/see and it's pretty impressive. No pics though, not until it's real... but here's the work I've done to pull the foremast together. I had to use the "poor man's lathe" to finish shaping the masts. I rough narrow by hand with sanding block rolling the mast back and forth, it takes forever but works ok. then the PML smooths out some of the bumps and gets looking pretty good. Not perfect but best I can do.

 

I also took a shot of the binnacle I made. I based on a few pics of early binnacle stands which were quite simple and did not have the magnetic globes on either side to counter all the iron on the later ships. The maid is mostly wood anyways (except for the extra bling I've provided).

 

Traveling this week so not much will be accomplished.

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Robb I still can't get over how awesome your steering setup looks. One thing that helps me with the PML is the flex shaft for the dremel. It takes some adaptations because of the small chuck size but makes it worthwhile with the ease of control.

Matt - aka The Squirrel Whisperer

 

Current builds - Benjamin W. Latham by Matt

 

Competed builds - USS Ranger by Matt

HMS Bounty Launch by Matt

18th Century 10" Sea Mortar by Matt

18th Century Naval Smoothbore by Matt

 

Future builds - Willie L. Bennett Chesapeake Bay skipjack (MS) Half Moon (Corel) Emma C Berry Lobster Smack (MS)US Brigantine Eagle (Corel) New Bedford Whaleboat (MS)

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Sitting outside on a beautiful summer afternoon while watching my daughter play with the neighborhood kids I managed to get the mainmast shaped and put together as well. Also got the first crosstree set cut. I have an entirely new appreciation for some of the work scratch modelers do - getting the cuts precise is not so easy, and especially so when using nothing but hand tools. I'm a long ways from that....

 

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A little more done tonight. worked on getting the second crosstree finished, this is exacting work and very challenging for me. I got the crosstrees on the foremast and thought I had all lined up, but see now that they are just *slightly* off. I am deciding whether to live with it or try to pull apart and fix. Wanted to see how it looks on the boat....

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Looks good in the photo.

 Current build: Syren : Kit- Model Shipways

 

Side project: HMS Bounty - Revel -(plastic)

On hold: Pre-owned, unfinished Mayflower (wood)

 

Past builds: Scottish Maid - AL- 1:50, USS North Carolina Battleship -1/350  (plastic),   Andromede - Dikar (wood),   Yatch Atlantic - 14" (wood),   Pirate Ship - 1:72 (plastic),   Custom built wood Brig from scratch - ?(3/4" =1'),   4 small scratch builds (wood),   Vietnamese fishing boat (wood)   & a Ship in a bottle

 

 

 

 

 

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