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kostas_gr

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Everything posted by kostas_gr

  1. I have modified the stairs, I have trimmed the vertical base of the step to look thinner and I have rounded the steps
  2. browsing erebus and terror build log, I have decided to install crates right beside the entry ports
  3. Orlop deck I have decided not to use treenails for the orlop deck, but I will the 'rule of 4" for the deck planking (as I used this rule for the hull planking) the cabin above the pump house, with a door half open
  4. after finishing hull rib, and install pump house etc, I made a mistake and I had to remove it I had to rebuild it again, but it was very hard to put it again where it was, so I cut it in two parts and tried to install it as it shown in picture there are gaps. Those gaps will be not shown when is finished because of the rocks I will place in cargohold
  5. I have always wanted to build a cross section, and since my next build will be HMS victory, so I have chosen corel's Victory and corel's victory cross section in 1:98 scale. I 've been told, that corel's kit is quite old and in some parts outdated. some pictures from cargohold, I have added pump house, shot holder and hull ribs
  6. Thank you very much Thanasis, too bad we didnt meet each other this year. This contest had some excellent ships that with very high level of details.
  7. tung oil is thick, looks like syrup/honey rather like oil. at the first phase, I am applying a lot of it, quickly and letting it for 15 mins, in some cases you have to apply more, the goal is to keep model wet, dont let it dry because it will be hard to be removed. After 15 mins or a bit more with a very soft clothe (microfiber clothe worked for me), you wipe out all the tung oil from your model, you have to be take it all out, until the wood have this perfect silk..ish touch. Remove it all, and let it rest for a couple of days or more. At the second phase, you repeat the step, but you will find out that now the wood does not "drinks" the tung oil very fast, keep it wet once again (you will not have to apply that much this time), after 15 mins (and without letting it dry) you wipe it out with the soft clothe. In my first build (san juan nepomuceno) I have used tung oil in every wooden part, but took me a lot of time to wipe it out from smaller parts. In my second build I have used it only for large parts (hull, decks, masts), for the rest part I have used baby Johnson oil, thicker than castor oil & easier than tung oil, with an average look/patina.
  8. Thank you for your kind words. I am very happy because this year San Francisco won the gold, in 2018 IPMS contest in my country. It was a milestone for me, and I hope my next project will be as good as this one.
  9. Almost finished, need to finish the stand and the case (and the small cover for the red switch box) rear view with painted shields attached I have to stop playing with switches (turn on/off leds) and hide switch box rigging close details
  10. I have to make some adjustments in order to install stern lantern. I have already placed a red led at the stern, but I have to replace the bottom part of lantern and drill a hole in order to pass through the led. I have decided to replace it with a carved wood. Starting shaping.... after a lot of sanding, finally it getting shape almost done, a comparison with the standard IKEA stencil a close look
  11. replacing the metal part with wooden, and making some improvments the result is..

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