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Posted

Hi

This will be my build log for the Artesania Latina HMAV Bounty. It will be my first plank on frame model so wish me luck :D

 

The first thing i decided to do was build myself a homemade slipway to stand the model in as it gets built.

I got a plank and cut it to the size i wanted and then i cut two lengths of smaller plank to the same length. I then glued the smaller planks to the base plank with the Keel in between them (taking care not to get any seepage of glue into the centre slot. This will not only act as a stand but it will help to make sure the keel remains straight as i build.

 

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The next thing was to cut out some slots crossways along the length of the slipway to allow the frames to fit in their respective slots

 

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To make sure that the frames sat all the way down in their slots i took a spare 1.5mm x 5mm plank and layed it in the central slot of the slipway then when the keel was put back in it raised it in the slot just enough to stop the frames touching the base plank when they are fitted.

 

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That's as far as i have got for now i will post again as soon as i start to build the keel and frame parts

Posted

Bob,

You are off to a good start.

You have gotten the right approach of keeping a straight false keel.

Just pulled up a chair, poured a cup of coffee and waiting for the next step.

Guessing the coffee will be all gone before next posting  

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

Posted

Hi Nirvana

                Thanks for your comment, I agree with you that keeping the keel as straight as possible is a basic fundamental of getting a good model and cutting down on any hassle later on. Enjoy your coffee, just got myself some too :)

Posted

Hi Cobr.

Nice to see another Bounty on the go.

Very good idea on the slipway. Will make life much easer for you as the model grows in size.

I also have this kit lined up to start after Christmas.

 

Have a nice one.

Regards Antony.

Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask.

Completed Mayflower

Completed Fun build Tail boat Tailboat

Completed Build Chinese Junk Chinese Pirate Junk

Completed scratch built Korean Turtle ship 1/32 Turtle ship

Completed Santa Lucia Sicilian Cargo Boat 1/30 scale Santa Lucia

On hold. Bounty Occre 1/45

Completed HMS Victory by DeAgostini modelspace. DeAgostini Victory Cross Section

Completed H.M.S. Victory X section by Coral. HMS Victory cross section

Completed The Black Pearl fun build Black Queen

Completed A large scale Victory cross section 1/36 Victory Cross Section

Posted

I have now dry fitted all the frames into the keel to make sure that they fit in the slots. The slots themselves are not part of the frame alignment process, they will be fitted using engineers squares.

 

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Posted (edited)

Hi Captain AL

                     I am following your build along with the other AL Bounty builds on MSW. I suppose this does give me an advantage with my build because i get forewarned of any problems others have encountered before me, and no doubt i will find a few of my own along the way :huh:

Edited by Cobr@
Posted

No doubt.  But it does look like you are approaching things in a very well considered way.  I haven't been too active in either my building or my log due to some medical issues, but I hope to get along with it shortly.  Hope my pix and problems are helpful.

Posted

No doubt.  But it does look like you are approaching things in a very well considered way.  I haven't been too active in either my building or my log due to some medical issues, but I hope to get along with it shortly.  Hope my pix and problems are helpful.

 

Yes the pics and text on all the builds i am following are a great help. some of the problems are silly mistakes on AL's side, like giving wrong part numbers on some things, but i find reading 5 or 6 steps ahead in the instructions saves a lot of work later. and of course the help from build logs is invaluable, like needing to put a couple of grooves in one of the crossbeams for the pumps before you assemble all the decks permanently, ( I would have missed that and been fiddling to get it done). Good luck with getting back to your shipyard matey.

Posted

Forward and Aft holds deck bases fitted ready for planking.

I have ordered some Boxwood for the planking as i don't want to use Basswood for planking, i once experimented with different woods for planking and i found that Maple and Lime gave a really bad finish, As Basswood and Lime are basicaly the same (just named differently in different countries) i do not fancy using it, so once my Boxwood order arrives i will commence the planking of the hold decks.

 

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Posted

Cobr@, are you to plank the entire hull with boxwood as well? If so, what did the cost come out to?

Boxwood is nice to work with.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

Posted

Hi Nirvana

                 i am doing all he decks with boxwood and i am using the kit supplied wood for the outer hull skin. As you say boxwood is really nice to work with but it's quite expensive compared to other woods, with delivery the cost for all the decking is around £70, dear but the finish it gives is worth it to me :)

Posted

Hi Bob.

I like the look of tulip wood for my decks as it has a tinge of green in it. But that's my choice..

 

But boxwood is the best one can get..

BTW were are you getting your boxwood from ??

A question ...Will you be doing a little kit bashing? ( making your own modifications)

 

Regards Antony.

Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask.

Completed Mayflower

Completed Fun build Tail boat Tailboat

Completed Build Chinese Junk Chinese Pirate Junk

Completed scratch built Korean Turtle ship 1/32 Turtle ship

Completed Santa Lucia Sicilian Cargo Boat 1/30 scale Santa Lucia

On hold. Bounty Occre 1/45

Completed HMS Victory by DeAgostini modelspace. DeAgostini Victory Cross Section

Completed H.M.S. Victory X section by Coral. HMS Victory cross section

Completed The Black Pearl fun build Black Queen

Completed A large scale Victory cross section 1/36 Victory Cross Section

Posted (edited)

Hi Antony

                 I'm not actually planning any kit bashing but as i progress i go back and read other build logs on this ship again and if anyone has had a good idea for an improvement i am not going to rule out doing something similar, after all a good idea, is a good idea lol.

The planking on this model is two different sizes, the lower holds and the middle deck are 0.6mm x 5mm and the main deck is 1mm x 5mm.

I had to use 2 different suppliers to get what i needed. For the lower and middle decks i used a company called Original Marquetry. They do Boxwood in 0.7mm x 4.5mm or 0.7mm x 6mm. plus other sizes but all 0.7mm thick I went with the 4.5mm as it's just slightly under but to they eye it won't really make much difference.

For the main deck i got the 1mm x 5mm from Euromodels. They are dearer than the first company but the only place i can find the correct size in Boxwood, having said that Boxwood is pretty expensive anyway for what it is. hope this info helps :)

Edited by Cobr@
Posted

While i wait for my Boxwood to arrive i knocked up a quick jig that will enable me to cut all my planks to exactly the same length. I'm using single sided razor blades to cut the planks, so that i don't get split ends from using a saw. Have to change the blade regularly so the edges stay as good as possible :)

 

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Posted (edited)

Got bored so i dug out an old plank and some spare narrower Boxwood i had left over from another project and quickly laid a bit of decking for practice. Didn't take any particular care as i just wanted to see what shift pattern to use.

I used the 4 butt shift pattern for this one but on the actual build i might change it to a 5 butt shift pattern. have to see what it looks like with the wider planks on the Bounty. The ones i used are about 1mm narrower so the effect will change when i use the wider planks.

 

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Edited by Cobr@
Posted

Just had another look at the plans and pictures and i noticed there is no cover over the hatchway on the forward lower deck. I strongly suspect this is another error in the plans. I am pretty sure that an entrance to the Bilge would have had a hatch cover over it. Anyway i have some spare material for making hatch covers so i am going to add one  ;) 

Posted

Hi Thomas

                 Thanks for the comment, I find spending a few hours going through other logs saves a lot more time in the long run so it's well worth the effort.

Also it's nice to see how others building the same kit are progressing with theirs :)

Posted

Forward and Aft hold decks planked.

Planks were cut to 120mm, at 1/48 scale this equates to a 20ft plank. The planks were then laid in a 5 butt shift system using a 13524 pattern. Mast support rings were then fitted and then i made up a grating to cover the bilge entry. This was made of some old grating material i had left over from something else. not quite the same scale but it's better than leaving the hole there and the scale difference will hardly be noticable once the middle deck is on and some cargo dispersed around the deck. Then the aft hold deck was done in the same way. Once done they were given a coat of matt varnish to seal them.

 

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Posted

Fitted the forward and aft middle deck crossbeams and painted them except for where glue will be needed later

 

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When fitting the pillar chock under the 4th crossbeam i did not want to get any glue on the deck planking so i only applied glue to the top of the chock, to make sure it was still secure i drilled a hole through the crossbeam and fitted a large treenail in with glue to strengthen the joint.

 

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Posted

Hi Bob.

Looking very nice.

Makes my fingers twitch in anticipation of starting my kit after Christmas.

Keep up the postings.

 

Regards Antony.

Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask.

Completed Mayflower

Completed Fun build Tail boat Tailboat

Completed Build Chinese Junk Chinese Pirate Junk

Completed scratch built Korean Turtle ship 1/32 Turtle ship

Completed Santa Lucia Sicilian Cargo Boat 1/30 scale Santa Lucia

On hold. Bounty Occre 1/45

Completed HMS Victory by DeAgostini modelspace. DeAgostini Victory Cross Section

Completed H.M.S. Victory X section by Coral. HMS Victory cross section

Completed The Black Pearl fun build Black Queen

Completed A large scale Victory cross section 1/36 Victory Cross Section

Posted

Nice!

just a hint, if you allow...

I would leave mast support rings, as well as mast support heels loose at that moment.

Later, when it is time to push the masts into a sequence of 3 fixed holes it might appear they are not exactly in a straight line. Then a slight allowance to the left or to the right might be very very useful.

========

Current build  -  HMS Bounty - 1:48 - Artesania Latina

 

Previous build    Golden Star - 1:150 - Mantua (not finished)

Posted (edited)

Nice!

just a hint, if you allow...

I would leave mast support rings, as well as mast support heels loose at that moment.

Later, when it is time to push the masts into a sequence of 3 fixed holes it might appear they are not exactly in a straight line. Then a slight allowance to the left or to the right might be very very useful.

 

Hi Capt

                 Of course it's allowed, all tips and hints should be welcomed by everyone, no matter how good the modeller is, there are always more things to learn  ;) especially if someone is trying to be helpful

All the mast heels are already fixed but i did dry fit all the decks and pass the masts through the holes before i fixed the  heels in place, the same method was used for the bottom support rings, and i will use the same method as i build upwards hopefully this will keep it all lined up, I say hopefully because you never can be sure until the last deck is permanently fixed :huh:

Edited by Cobr@

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