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About CDW

  • Birthday 04/16/1954

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    Tampa, Florida
  • Interests
    Scale model building of all types; American and world history; science; religious studies; flight; grandchildren; travel; antique car and motorcycle restoration

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  1. Jack I'm late for your build thread, but enjoyed browsing through your progress. Love the subject model, so much solid history behind the Liberty Ships. Regarding your photo etch doors...I recommend trying/using acrylic glue rather than CA. 1. It allows all the time you need to adjust the position of the photo etch part and will provide a superior bond (IMHO) for flat items like doors to plastic. 2. It dries totally clear and will not mar the finish of your plastic or photo etch. 3. It's water soluble so clean up of excess glue is a breeze just using a water dampened q-tip. 4. Because it's water soluble, it's easy to remove a part if you make a mistake...even if it's dry. Gator's Grip acrylic glue works a charm for photo etch. A small bottle of it lasts a very long time, years even. Regarding your air brush issues...is yours a siphon feed or gravity feed air brush?
  2. This just about wraps up engine painting and construction. Maybe a few touch-ups here and there, and I'm rather certain the exhaust system will need a tweak to get them to fit the exits properly once the engine is placed inside the fuselage airframe.
  3. That looks amazing! Will be giving those powders a try very soon. A Z-M P-51D screams for that as a NMF.
  4. Thanks Richmond. I used Mr Color Metal Aluminum on the engine cylinders and crank case, with Vallejo black ink for a wash to bring out the cooling fin details. Tamiya gloss black on the intake manifold and rocker covers. I used Mr. Color Metal Iron to dry brush the black manifold and rocker covers. For most of this model (maybe all?), I will be using Mr Color Acrysion, Mr Color Metal, Tamiya paints and some Vallejo washes. Will use Pledge Floor Care as a generic acrylic gloss clear coat where necessary before washes.
  5. While I was wearing my Optivisor, filing away a sprue burr from a photo etch part, realized the photo etch is not stainless steel, but rather it is brass with some type of sliver colored plating or coating. Don't know what the plating is all about. Maybe to keep the brass from becoming tarnished?
  6. That gloss finish looks great from my view of it. If there is a flaw, I can't see it. What brand of paint are you using. Is it Testors enamel?
  7. That's great that Testors is making an affordable airbrush most anyone can acquire. Things like this help grow the hobby as similar items that higher priced can discourage people from even giving the hobby a try. I remember well when airbrushes seemed out of reach for me from a financial standpoint. I admired them and those that used them, but just couldn't afford and/or justify the expense to acquire one. Painted everything with a brush and rattle cans for a long time.
  8. Thanks for stopping by, Denis!...and for the nice comments. You didn't get the tee shirt? Well, at least you were warned to do it when the admiral and children were not in the room in view of your monitor. I was caught totally by surprise. 😎
  9. While Zoukei-Mura is the sole provider of this and other photo etch update sets for this model, the sets are actually produced by Eduard. As far as I can determine, there is no logical reason why Eduard chooses to use stainless steel vs: brass on their photo etch sets. I am not a fan of stainless steel photo etch for the most part, and not a fan of Eduard for that matter. The sets are way over priced for what you get as are Eduard products in general. And yes, a 90 degree bend in stainless steel is very likely to result in breakage.
  10. It's one of the better builds of the old Revell Constitution I have ever seen. Looks positively excellent. The addition of the various detail sets paid off in spades.
  11. With the workshop counters cleaned up, Attention is now focused on building the 18 cylinder radial engine. Here in these photos, you can see the photo etch ignition wiring while it is being threaded to the appropriate cylinders.
  12. CDW

    The "What have you done today?" thread.

    My tricks to clean things are nothing to compare with my ability to clutter things up. I'm like an evil Jedi in that regard. A master of disaster. 😃
  13. CDW

    The "What have you done today?" thread.

    I can see the tops of my work counters again. Now it's to work on another model so I can completely clutter it all up again. 🙂
  14. Most of your old Revell kits came with movable parts...doors, hoods, trunks, steering. Getting the parts to work without breaking them was always the trick. Opening doors often had huge gaps around the doors that looked horrible. About the most foolproof working part/s were the metal axles that came with AMT kits. Plastic axles never lasted very long once you rolled them.

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