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About genericDave

  • Birthday 12/18/1973

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    Austin, TX

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  1. Thanks for all the quick responses! @jimbyr, I was seriously just going to email you and ask what to order, but I rarely post outside of my build logs so I was trying to get my post count up That was one of the blades I was focusing on, so it sounds like one I definitely need. @Jaager, I am considering just getting a small selection of blades while I'm at it, and doing some trial-and-error to learn the differences. I'm still working on sourcing the wood (thinking I'll get the boxwood from Chuck, because I want to support when I can, but if I want other woods like some Swiss pear, I need to find a source), and I might end up with some varying thicknesses if I go with a local source (turns out we have 2-3 specialty wood dealers in Austin, Texas...who knew). I've also got a bunch of samples of different woods that I ordered earlier this year (in anticipation of starting to work with higher quality materials), so I'll be well equipped to do some trial runs. @Moab, I keep hearing/seeing recommendations for the slitter blades, so I think I definitely need to add at least one to my little workshop-in-a-closet. I think Jim's helpfulness is obvious given that he was the first reply in this thread I can't imagine better customer service than I've seen from Byrnes. @mtaylor, That is an excellent pdf. It has a lot of the advice I've seen around the forums in one convenient place. Already added it to my library of saved docs I also got a copy pm'd to me from another member. I think I've read it 3-4 times now, and I learn something new every time. So, assuming I grab the 3" 90 tooth .03 kerf blade Jim recommends, are there a couple other blades I should grab at the same time to get me 'covered' with a good set of blades?
  2. I'm going to attempt to cut my own planks for my current build since my puppy ate the material that came with my kit. I've found a lot of great info by going through all the threads here and in the wood forum. I found this thread particularly helpful: byrnes table saw questions. I feel like the resources on this site (including the PDFs in the Articles Database) have given me a great start on all the various tips and tricks. Aside from finalizing my wood selection, I only have one thing left to figure out... I'm considering buying a new table saw blade, and wanted to ask for suggestions on which one to get. I have a Byrnes table saw with the stock 4in carbide blade. I've successfully made test planks using this down to 1/32" thick from boxwood and swiss pear, and the results are certainly good enough to use. But I've read that a slitting blade will improve the finish, and that a blade with less kerf will waste less wood. Since wood isn't cheap (and is getting harder to source with various vendors shutting down temporarily or permanently), making the most from each board is very appealing. However, I saw that if you go too thin on the blade, it might bend or warp when it heats up. But when I go look at the blades available on the Byrnes site, I'm feeling a little overwhelmed. I see blades with a .04 kerf, .03 kerf, and .02 kerf. I'm also seeing all kinds of different teeth numbers. I'm also not sure if using a 3" or 4" blade will matter with what I'm cutting. So my question is: If I'm going to be cutting planks from wood up to about 3/16" thick (probably things like boxwood or swiss pear, with maybe a little cherry or such), which blades from Byrnes would you suggest? (List of what they offer is here.) I know I can get blades from a variety of places, but I'd prefer to stick with ordering from Byrnes because I need to order a draw plate anyway, and I've been really happy with their product and want to continue to support them whenever I can. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
  3. Thanks Michael! I'm using an little cart designed for storing rolled architectural plans for the wood. I got some clear plastic tubes, and sorted all the wood based on the largest dimension into the tubes and label them. I did a similar thing for my assorted brass strips and tubes. The cart has wheels, so I can pull it around as needed. When I need wood or brass of a certain size, I can pull that tube and drop it on the bench. Helps to keep all the various things sorted, but accessible. Someday I plan to replace the cart with a custom-built wood 'thing' with slots for all the tubes. It's not elegant or pretty, but it makes it easy to keep a lot of wood sorted and close at hand.
  4. I wish I had room for a setup like Michael's! Maybe in our next house...but for now, I did just give my work area a bit of an upgrade... I think I've posted my work bench before...it is in the corner of my home office. Since it is right off the main hall and visible from the kitchen, I'm required to keep it presentable It's abnormally clean right now because I've been slowly working on rigging, which doesn't make much of a mess. Over the last year or so, my collection of power tools has been growing quickly. When it was just a Proxxon drill press, it was fine to keep it under the table and move it to the bench when needed. As my collection grew to include a Proxxon mill and scroll saw, I grew tired of constantly moving the machines around. So I cleared off a shelf in a walk-in closet, ran a plug strip in there, and used the tools in there. Over the last couple of weeks, I upgraded the mill to a Sherline, and I added a Byrnes table saw. Both of these are too big to fit on the narrow shelf in my closet, so I decided to go all the way and turn the closet into a mini-workshop. The closet is about 5' x 5', and has built in shelves on three walls. I cleared everything out of the closet that wasn't model-related. I put in two sets of tall wire drawers for storage. Then I made a simple L-shaped wood bench top to fit the space. It is deep enough to handle all the tools, and sits right on top of the drawer units and the existing shelf (no permenant modifications to the closet were made). I added a little bit of LED lighting, run to a switch right inside the door. Now that I had a home for the Sherline, I was finally able to mount the DRO readout and get the wiring cleaned up. I also have enough room to keep my Proxxon mill set up, which is about 3/4 done being converted to CNC. Dust hasn't been a huge problem when I've used the drill or mill in here (given the small nature of the parts), but it will be a problem with the table saw. I'm planning to pick up a shop vac and stash it in the corner. It's not much, but for me, this is a big upgrade!
  5. What have you received today?

    Kurt, The t-slots on the Sherline are closer together than on the Proxxon, so I can only get one bolt in to secure the Proxxon's rotary vise (and I think I'd need two to ensure its square). The Sherline only has two t-slots on the included table, so I could probably solve this with a tooling plate for the Sherline (which has 3 t-slots), but at this point I think I'd rather just invest in the Sherline rotary table and a tilting table since those are MUCH more versatile.
  6. What have you received today?

    While working on the rigging for my Bluenose build, I've started prepping the workbench for the next build...restocking supplies, etc. My MicroMark table saw died while making some jewelry displays for my wife, so she agreed to let me buy a Byrnes table saw to replace it. Night and day difference from the MircroMark saw. This thing feels solid and precise. I went with the extended fence and a micro meter. I also pulled the trigger on upgrading my mill. I've been using a Proxxon MF70 for the last year. I originally went with the Proxxon because I wasn't sure how much I'd use it, and I wanted to try doing a CNC conversion on it, so going with something less expensive made sense. I've ended up using the mill a TON, so I took the plunge and upgraded to a Sherline 5410 with DRO (Package A). The Sherline will be my general purpose manual mill, handling the bulk of the work, and the Proxxon will be converted to CNC for 'playing around'. (I got the controllers and motors working last year for the Proxxon CNC conversion, but held off on mounting the motors to the mill because once you do, you can't manually control it with the hand wheels). I wasn't going to get the Sherline for a few more months, but I was following Thistle17's thread about mills and couldn't help myself. If my wife asks why I had to buy another mill now, I'm blaming Thistle17. Still need to pick up a rotary table for the mill...I was waiting to see if the rotary vise from my Proxxon would fit on the Sherline (it doesn't). Both machines arrived within a day of each other, and I feel like my shop just took a major leap forward. Now I just have to learn how to use the Sherline properly, figure out all the bits and pieces, and rework my 'wood shop in a closet' to have room for the new tools.

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