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normanh

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Everything posted by normanh

  1. Luckily the Posidrives are very much out of view, the wood finish looks like a weather tinted varnish that has heavily weathered where exposed and less so where sheltered which would give a problem if i were to oil the timber with such like teak or tung oils the oil will not penetrate the oak timbers, removing the varnish will be difficult as i have smashed up my left hand recently Norman
  2. Hi Jan The carriage is a modern replica sometime from 20th Century how can i tell - posi-drive screwheads, the brown colour is either a varnish or a coloured wood stain. The bore is blocked about 30 mm from the muzzle and is about 35 mm diameter. It was sold as a replica but is interesting to me as it makes a change to the stationary steam pumps I have in the garden of which one has a naval background its off a Canadian built minesweeper. Norman
  3. Not been around much in the last years due to workload but now I have retired I looking to get back into the hobby. Picked up this model today, its a naval style carriage with a larger non ferrous metal barrel, I was told it wasn't brass/bronze but I am happy with it as a garden ornament, its too big for the house. The barrel looks to be a model field gun type , no markings seen so far. So the question is what colour should I paint the carriage for weather protection red or yellow ochre? I think its approx 1:4 scale. Norman
  4. I think the museum is still free until you add in the observatory and Cutty Sark then you pay. There is no way I would pay in its current fashion - Wooden Walls display removed from view, one of the greatest model period model displays I have seen. Not been there for a couple of years but I wouldnt be supprised if the George V model has been moved out. https://www.rmg.co.uk/plan-your-visit/tickets-prices Norman
  5. I totally agree with you shipman on the collections being removed from public view a sad moment for all, so much so I dont think I have visited these two establishments since. NMM biggest crowd puller is now the map on the floor for kids to run around on, its very popular brings in the families but does it meet the brief of the museum? I am not convinced but in a way it does demonstrate navigation. I honestly thnk its so shortsighted by these so called museum professionals but at the end of the day it does bring in the punters. Norman
  6. I put a small brass pin into the yard to fasten the yard to the mast as a blind fixing , then the rigging, its hidden and holds everything in place very easily. Norman
  7. I've always used a matt varnish that's white spirit based enamel - Humbrol in the UK in a small small tin, covers well and seals the wood, no sheen or shine. Silk finish makes the wood look a like its wet and a gloss is far to shiny. Norman
  8. Its a good kit and with effort will produce a fine model - I completed mine approx 4 years ago. Norman
  9. Revell make a colour called "Tar Black" that's looks great on the ironwork of a model. Its acrylic and easy to use. Norman
  10. I shape mine purely by hand and eye, marking the end grain with a black dot the size/diameter I wish the yard needs to finish up. Then I mark the position from where the taper starts. Using a good small hand file I file to the end from the start mark carefully rotating the yard on the edge of my work bench until the correct profile is obtained. I have used this technique on all 3 of my models to date now never fails. Just to finish I twist the yard in some fine abrasive to give a good finish that's about 30 in total. No machines used or needed. Norman
  11. I still have plans and can scan the relevant pages to A4. Hopefully without breaching copyright Norman
  12. Yes - very likely Stars and Stripes Found this as well - a very similar composition! Norman
  13. Where Jud? Yes I see a shadow below the house flag! Norman
  14. Theres nothing on the back of the canvas Don, I have already looked, no backing there. Norman
  15. Matle I think you are right based on the flag http://www.crwflags.com/fotw/flags/us~hfgr.html colours match perfectly on the flag but still cant explain the Red Duster. This looks very familar http://finishingtouchgallery.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Flying-Cloud-Yankee-Clipper-1851-1874-350x250.jpg Norman
  16. Unlikely to be American due to her flying the Red Duster, its not a courtesy flag no Stars and Stripes visible. I did try and look up the main mast flag but theres likely 100's of companies on the link I found and no easy way to look at each other than one at a time. Norman
  17. Not sure if this will work hopefully it will as I have cut the flags from the original picture, maybe these will help with the shipping line? Norman
  18. Purchased this oil painting a few months back of a sailing ship in full sail -its oil on canvas, Reeves branded canvas on what looks to be very professionally mounted in a frame all brass screws, my thoughts maybe 50's/60's painting. The artist has signed the picture - H Rowen. The ship is flying the Red Duster so shes British. I have no other details. At first I thought maybe the Cutty Sark but shes not carrying enough canvas, any thoughts guys on her name? Oh I paid the huge sum of £12 a bargin I thought from a local antique centre a few weekends back, its in very good condition with just one small fleck of missing paint. It was complete with a very tidy professional frame as well. Thanks Norman
  19. A number of years back this submarine was featured in a model build in the forums. Cant remember much all that data has been lost now. Norman
  20. This is just a fantastic museum and needs to be visited, we visited Oslo in 2015. Norman
  21. The Maud will make a further valuable exhibit in the Fram Museum at Oslo - this is well worth a visit just up the road from the Viking Ship Museum. Norman
  22. The bows dont look to bad but the stern has bulkheads that dont flow and blend in with the planking hence the sharp bends that appear like ridges. The bulkheads must be well rounded on their edges top avoid this look, made that mistake my self on one of my Caldercraft builds, I was lucky to be able to correct a lot at the first planking stage. Norman
  23. Never had an issue using a good quality file for squaring off a round dowel, have used the technique on all my builds to date, start with a single flat turn it over through 180 degrees then put in the second. I usually repeat the 3rd and 4th flats holding the dowel in a small vise. To bring up the size I usually bond on some thin light coloured veneer a side at a time thick enough to bring up the square section to the original dowel diameter. Works equally well for a octagon section as well. Norman
  24. I have the USS Arizona with the former White Ensign etch kits and a wooden combi and lots more work, just watch the bonding of the deck with mine I had to use a spray adhesive and the veneer is so thin light has penetrated the wood and killed the spray glue and given a few bubbles. Not too sure on how the self adhesive decks fair.. But above all wood terrific - must finish my model its 95% there and publish the build pics. Norman
  25. I believe hazel was used in the bands of the powder casks. Norman
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