normanh

Repara is absolutely fabulous for bonding the odd copper plate that refuses to stay in place with CA

I would only plank in situ then you can cut and shap the perimeter planks exactly to fit leaving or really minmizing any possible gaps

Definately steamers - if you get the chance visit the Historic Dockyard at Chatham the Wooden Walls exhibition has one made up following the course of a build.

From memory those parts are made from walnut ply, you need to be very careful in cutting it out, I have broken a couple in the past as the design is common across the Caldercraft kits so I used a superglue - no problems. Norman

I usually pin using a countsunk nail, filling the head to mak it invisable if its to be painted and superglue high viscosity type in situations like this.

Let it age naturally, any spray lacquer is very likely to show any poorly covered area in time as it will develop a patina unlike the covered area and it will look patchy, seen this so many times in brass and copper objects however carefully sprayed. Aged looks better in my opinion every time. Norman

Birch ply is common in all the Calderkraft kits , no issues with it its good material and used in the false keel and frames and even down to 2mm for the deck, birch dowel is widely used for the masts. i wouldnt use it for planking its just too thick 2 to 5 mm are the usual thickness on ply but often widely used in gunport templates where ply sections are often precut with the ports to aid assembly and marking out. I never considred that in my reply until now, never considered birch veneer but I suspect its too white and would neet staining. Norman

Simply try a Caldercraft kit, one of their smaller models or one from Euromodel. I dont think you can go wrong with either although I only have experience with Calderkaft they both have strong similarities. Norman

They are ok but you do need to predrill a pilot hole with brass pins as they are too easily bent with pressure and you still have to finish by hand using a small pin hammer in my experience. I made my pinpush and just use it these days to start the pin off if at all. Norman

I'll stick to my little dab of low viscosity SG so quick and not fiddly at all sorry guys - this is gizmos for the sake of it to me. Norman

Slighty off topic but how many of you smoke? I trained in analytical chemistry many years ago and I know full well whats in tobacco smoke ( I worked in the industry for 13 years including 6 years in the Labs), that would concern me more that what we would encounter within our hobby. I dont smoke. Norman

Be careful on the overall height of the barrel in relationship to the deck and the gunport my friend, those look might high and look like they will foul the top of the gunport. Norman

In a kit the mast is usually located into a slot within the false keel often with blocks of ply with a semicircular cutout at the bottom of the slot to stop the mast moving out of alignment, the deck alignmet is usually controlled by the deck ply. Just be careful in drilling the deck ply to match the slots. I usually put a pin in the lower end of the mast that I push into the false keel to stop any movement once I am happy with the position. Its worked on the 3 models I have built to date. Norman

I found Petersson to be very good in conjunction with the Caldercraft Drawings very good in rigging my Snake, helped me no end. Norman

Looking very trim there, keep up the good work. Norman

This is what I use its rebadged under several names and is very common.It wont last in a continuous mode very long but does what I need and has for 2 years now. http://www.tooled-up.com/product/draper-expert-oil-free-air-brush-air-compressor-240v/195385/?Referrer=googleproductlisting&gclid=COGt4LnbnLwCFWfLtAod1W0Akg Norman

Sorry but I have to totally disagree with the guys comments in that article - you dont need masses of air or even an air tank unless you are spraying large areas, my compressor holds 20 psi steady doesnt pulse and switches off when I stop and the airbrush - usages stops. It bearly gets warm unless its used for protracted periods of time. There is no noise other than a gentle hum when in use. Using a compressor with a tank can give you all sorts of issues with condensation and the pressure switches can be so coarse in their reaction to pressure changes the pressure will cycle and not give stable conditions for small air usages. Airbrushes are not like spray guns requiring huge volumes by comparision. I am definately not going to airbrush paint for 45 minutes like in the article - a typical airbrush will only contain a small volume of paint typically 2cc up to a max of about 20cc if it uses a glass jar. Checkout Testors Site for information. These are an overkill - http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/search/filter/airmaster-2/type/any/module/shopcategory/page/1 and I wouldnt like to risk the anger of good lady, the next might be suitable - at a price http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/search/filter/ultra-quiet-air-compressors/type/any/module/shopcategory/page/1 I would honestly suggest you sit down and write out what you need to do and speak to an expert who uses an airbrush - I did and I am very satisfied with my set up which was more than ample in spraying the hull of my 1:200 Arizona model I am currently building. Norman

I have a small airbrush compressor theres absolutely no noise issue with it - RoHS modwl AS18-2 1/6HP with auto start filter and air delivery of 20-23 litres a minute. Noice issuescome in when you are purchasing much larger units with receivers of many litres and motors in excess of 1 HP. I use the Aztek A470 Airbrush Set. A good UKsupplier is http://www.sylmasta.com/acatalog/Aztek_A470_Airbrush_Sets.html they sell good compressors and handy consumables for model making. One of spares I usyually get from Hobbycraft who usuually stock a fair range but can be pricey. Norman

Tulipwood? Its imported into ther UK in huge amounts from the USA and is widely used in joinery pale in colour but can have some stricking variations fine grained and no knots. I am not sure if this is used in modelling? Norman

Ramin is regarded as a protected species depending on its country of origin and is listed on CITES http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gonystylus Importation into the EU or US can lead to stiff fines and or prison in the US. or EU UK would be subject to the EUTR Regs or the Lacey Act in the US. The consequences on the importer for illegal logged timber entering the supply chain is likely to result in series legal implications - fines and or prison in the US. I dont think there is much FSC certified timber around which can demonstrate sustainable timber through certification in the supply chain - known as chain of custody. Norman

I have to say I have always found Caldercraft/Jotika more that helpful on any quality issues and very responsive in replacing parts. Norman

Shes a model I would dearly love to build one so I will be following your thread with keen interest oh the size wow! Norman

Masts starting to shape up well Glyn Norman

Can I just make a correction here to the statement on polyurethane varnishing yellowing - the reaction is caused by uv exposure - common varnishes use an aromatic di-isocyante , usually MDI by its shortened name. The fact is all aromatic di-isocyantes react with uv as this is a reaction due to the double bonds in the core molecule of MDI. Not all polyurethanes yellow - try looking for a grade containing an aliphatic di-isocyanate commonly used in car paint lacquers. Norman

Hank - with Pontos duplicating the Trumpy PE it maybe a blessing in disguise as I found the Trumpy PE to be as soft as putty and pretty much useless on a number of parts. I have yet to try the Pontos PE on my Dreadnought but I hope its like the White Ensign PE. Norman