thibaultron

Acetone, for sure. It will make the fairing of the hull difficult, if not corrected.

Thank you for my Saturday smile, Frank. Beautifully done.

Well done Frank.  The keel is laid, time to celebrate.
 
Bob

Great project!
 
I've raced with the skipjacks at Deal Island.  I'm tied between two of them in the photo.  Fun times!

Hi Frank
 
If it's any consolation, I'm with you about the planking.  However, my thoughts are that it's sacrilege to put so much work into something that may never be seen.  Leaving the hull and deck partially open seems to be the only way to go.
 
Well, that's my opinion anyway.
 
All the best!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Thanks Patrick!  I really do enjoy the challenge of trying to build the model the way the full-size vessel was built - but I think you seem to enjoy the same thing on your models.  When I get to the planking stage I need to determine how much of the work to show, or maybe just cover it all up.

Kurt;
Tried your cleaner recipe. Works very well, thanks!

Just got my copy today!! Can't say good enough things about the detail shown in the books. The only problem, is now I know my finished models will be much too clean! ;-)

Was finally able to do some testing of the booth today. Unfortunately neither my camera, nor my phone give good enough video to show the testing.

 
However, here are the results:

 
1.      The 250 CFM blower is too big for this size booth, 2' X 2' X 2', but it does not suck the paint stream when I paint, so, for now, I will use it as is. If I was to do it again, I'd get the 130 CFM blower.

 
2.         The blower is also, I'm sure loader than a 130 CFM unit, but it is not objectionable. My cheap Harbor Freight compressor, on the other hand, is objectionably loud though! I need to get a long hose at put it in another room.

 
3.         The baffle I added, helped in distributing the air flow evenly across the filter.

 
4.         When I did a smoke test, with incense, there were no blowback areas anywhere in the booth. The smoke was drawn directly back in a straight stream.

 
5.         During the summer I will have a nice breeze blowing past me! In the winter, maybe not so nice!

 
6.         I think I will simply direct the output into a covered bucket, with relief holes drilled in it, for acrylic paints. There was nothing coming out the outlet, nor any smell. If I use solvent paints, then I will vent it outside. The blower would exchange the air in the shop, much faster than either my heating, or air conditioner could keep up with, if vented outside all the time. Another reason for a smaller blower.

 
7.         This size booth is a better fit for my space than a 3’ wide one would be. I have another sheet of 3/8” plywood, though, so I may build the bigger one, just to see if I like it better.

 
I have to build the table/desk next, and paint the booth. I have some aluminum flashing, white on one side, I may line the bottom with it, just to make paint cleanup easier. I also have to find a light to install in the top.
2 Like this
 

Kurt;
Tried your cleaner recipe. Works very well, thanks!

Just got my copy today!! Can't say good enough things about the detail shown in the books. The only problem, is now I know my finished models will be much too clean! ;-)

Keel is ready for the deck... sort of. I was pretty diligent with the use of the square to make sure the transom was perfect but alas it isn't. I committed to the bonding of it to the keel and am now going to pay for that. It isn't off a LOT, but it is off. in the close up the transom's misalignment is noticeable. The deck is not glued to the keel yet.  Should I grab the acetone and try to reapply the piece? Or move on and do a bit of corrective sanding. I'm leaning toward a redo, but there is the danger of damaging the wood of the keel. 
 

Howdy Bulwark,
 
I like that...."shakedown."  Take her out there and work her bolts loose.  Ha!  Haven't heard "shakedown" in a while.
 
Ciao for now
Rob

Starting with the instructions. Gave them a good read through. Had trouble with seperating the keel from the sprue and, snap. Elmers to the rescue. Letting that cure before forging ahead. 
 
This is my first wooden ship model. I'm no stranger to modeling, or miniature painting so i hope my skills at figure painting will do me service here. I may or may not be verbose in my descriptions. This is less a how to and more of a document of what i did right and wrong. 
 
Suggestions are welcome, naturally.

Hi Frank
 
You're never one to disappoint!  Such meticulous and accurate work....well, it's akin to building the full sized ship!  Perhaps you were a shipwright in a previous life?
 
All in all, mighty fine work.
 
'Cheers
 
Patrick 

Part 5 – The Stem Knee, Keel, and Worm Shoe


 
The stem knee supports the inner stem, has a 5” square socket to support the Sampson Post, and has a mortise on each side for the foreward-most frame.  The following photo shows the stem knee drawing, which was mirrored for aligning the two sides of the knee.


 
                                  
 


A small chisel was used to cut the socket and the frame mortises into the stem knee.  Because the knee was fairly small, I used the work setup shown in the following photos.


 

 

A 5” x 5” strip was used to check the accuracy of the socket for the Sampson Post.


 

 

The stem knee was then glued in place.

 


 
The rest of the keel (aft of the centerboard slot) was installed as two pieces.  The first piece was installed at the beginning of the curve in the keelson.


 



 
The aft keel piece was formed from 3 separate timbers.


 


 
This aft piece was then glued in place.


 


 
This completed the Keelson/Keel assembly.


 


 
There is a ‘worm shoe’ installed under the keel, as a protection for the keel.  This is made from pine and is only 2 “ thick.  The following photo shows the worm shoe being installed.


 


 
The cutwater and outer stem were fabricated, but only temporarily installed at this point.  The outer stem will cover the plank ends, and will be tapered from the planks down to the width of the cutwater, so this work will be left until the planking is installed.  The profile of the outer stem has been cut, and holes have been drilled to allow the outer stem to be temporarily mounted to the inner stem.  In addition, a slot was milled in the forward face of the outer stem for installation of the cutwater.


 

 


 
The following photo shows the completed Keelson / Keel / Stem assembly, with the temporary installation of the cutwater.


 


 
And, finally, mounts were created to keep the keel assembly at the proper height from the shipway, and the assembly was mounted to the shipway.


 


 
With the assembly now mounted in place, it’s time to start making and installing the frames for Kathryn.


 
Thanks everyone for following along, and especially for the Likes and comments.

Years ago I had the same problem to make accurate cuts, use different methods without good results... the solution was a Guillotine Paper Cutter

You don't necessarily need an insert: simply make a ply over-table clamped or screwed to the existing table and raise the saw blade through it. Voila! Zero-clearance. All you need do is to re-arrange the fence to slide over this, or glue a wood fence on a the required spacing from the blade.

Kurt;
Tried your cleaner recipe. Works very well, thanks!

Frank;
OK, buy the new version, thanks!

The Byrnes table saw zero-clearance insert blanks are aluminum.
 
If the Proxxon doesn't have an insert I'd seriously consider doing what I had to to give it one, cutting away the surface around the blade and creating a mounting for a drop-in insert. Zero-clearance inserts are just plain required for precision work and his saw is of limited usefulness if it doesn't have one.
 

Steve.... bummer on the no insert.  Hopefully what I posted will help someone else.

Was finally able to do some testing of the booth today. Unfortunately neither my camera, nor my phone give good enough video to show the testing.

 
However, here are the results:

 
1.      The 250 CFM blower is too big for this size booth, 2' X 2' X 2', but it does not suck the paint stream when I paint, so, for now, I will use it as is. If I was to do it again, I'd get the 130 CFM blower.

 
2.         The blower is also, I'm sure loader than a 130 CFM unit, but it is not objectionable. My cheap Harbor Freight compressor, on the other hand, is objectionably loud though! I need to get a long hose at put it in another room.

 
3.         The baffle I added, helped in distributing the air flow evenly across the filter.

 
4.         When I did a smoke test, with incense, there were no blowback areas anywhere in the booth. The smoke was drawn directly back in a straight stream.

 
5.         During the summer I will have a nice breeze blowing past me! In the winter, maybe not so nice!

 
6.         I think I will simply direct the output into a covered bucket, with relief holes drilled in it, for acrylic paints. There was nothing coming out the outlet, nor any smell. If I use solvent paints, then I will vent it outside. The blower would exchange the air in the shop, much faster than either my heating, or air conditioner could keep up with, if vented outside all the time. Another reason for a smaller blower.

 
7.         This size booth is a better fit for my space than a 3’ wide one would be. I have another sheet of 3/8” plywood, though, so I may build the bigger one, just to see if I like it better.

 
I have to build the table/desk next, and paint the booth. I have some aluminum flashing, white on one side, I may line the bottom with it, just to make paint cleanup easier. I also have to find a light to install in the top.
2 Like this
 

Was finally able to do some testing of the booth today. Unfortunately neither my camera, nor my phone give good enough video to show the testing.

 
However, here are the results:

 
1.      The 250 CFM blower is too big for this size booth, 2' X 2' X 2', but it does not suck the paint stream when I paint, so, for now, I will use it as is. If I was to do it again, I'd get the 130 CFM blower.

 
2.         The blower is also, I'm sure loader than a 130 CFM unit, but it is not objectionable. My cheap Harbor Freight compressor, on the other hand, is objectionably loud though! I need to get a long hose at put it in another room.

 
3.         The baffle I added, helped in distributing the air flow evenly across the filter.

 
4.         When I did a smoke test, with incense, there were no blowback areas anywhere in the booth. The smoke was drawn directly back in a straight stream.

 
5.         During the summer I will have a nice breeze blowing past me! In the winter, maybe not so nice!

 
6.         I think I will simply direct the output into a covered bucket, with relief holes drilled in it, for acrylic paints. There was nothing coming out the outlet, nor any smell. If I use solvent paints, then I will vent it outside. The blower would exchange the air in the shop, much faster than either my heating, or air conditioner could keep up with, if vented outside all the time. Another reason for a smaller blower.

 
7.         This size booth is a better fit for my space than a 3’ wide one would be. I have another sheet of 3/8” plywood, though, so I may build the bigger one, just to see if I like it better.

 
I have to build the table/desk next, and paint the booth. I have some aluminum flashing, white on one side, I may line the bottom with it, just to make paint cleanup easier. I also have to find a light to install in the top.
2 Like this
 

Frank;
OK, buy the new version, thanks!