thibaultron

2/17
 
After going over my drawings one last time, and finding a few errors, I started construction on my Spray Booth.
 

 
I've cut out all the plywood, and ripped a 1 X 6 into 3/4" strips. The strips are for the corners, to strengthen the joints.
 
Here is a picture of the sides, with the strips glued and nailed on. The ply is warped a little, so all the clamps are to hold the glue strips on solid, until the glue dries. I'll let them sit overnight, and do the rest tomorrow, when I the clamps are free.
 

 
The glue strips are sitting over at the left of the ramp. The rectangular arrangement of strips are for the filter mount and blower bulkheads. Most of the case is 3/8" ply (I would have preferred 1/2", but I had the 3/8"). The blower bulkhead is 3/4", as I felt the 3/8" was too thin for this. The notch on the larger end of the one side is a lap joint in the plywood. The ply is 3/8" exterior siding.

2/19
 
Today I glued the sides onto the bottom of my spray booth.
 
Before I start, for my mother should she ever read this. Yes, shop horrible mess, you raised me better, suitably ashamed. Sorry. :-)
 
I started out dry fitting them. The filter frame will not be glued in today, but it is being used as a jig to keep the sides square, and correctly oriented front to back. It is tight against it's glue strips which are already attached to the sides.
 

 
I disassembled the parts and marked the bottom of the sides for where the long strips mated to it. Then I drilled 1/16th pilot screws through the ply. The purple paint was put on by the lumberyard. The panels were damaged, so I got them for 70% off. The paint is how they indicate to the cashier that this is the case. The damage was to the lap joint notches, so didn't affect this use.
 

 
After putting the side and frame mount back in I installed the screws. Starting in the middle, due to warp in the plywood, I drilled the pilot holes through the glue strips and ran in the screws. Then, naturally I installed the other side.
 

 
I found that both sides bowed in, so I had to clamp the filter mount in firmly, and put a screw in to hold it in place.
 

 
I mistakenly installed the glue strips at the back of the booth to the side pieces, so I couldn't put screws in from the bottom, with everything screwed to the table. I used my two long clamps to hold those two joints tight to the bottom. Tomorrow, I'll remove it from the table, put in screws, and reattach it.
 

 
One side at the back was twisted in, so I clamped it from the side, another reason the two glue strips should have been attached to the bottom first.
 

 
The strips and ply come out to 1 1/8" thick, and my screws are 1 1/4" long. When I'm done, I'll go back with a motor tool and cut the ends flush.
 

 
 

2/18
 
Today I glued the corner strips to the bottom of the spray booth.
 
The booth will ultimately reside on a table with casters, so I can move it around. I have an old table top, that will be used for this.
 
As I mentioned before the plywood is warped. I don't have deep enough clamps to get to one of the internal corners. So I decided to screw the bottom to the table top, in the position it will be at. This flattened the ply.  In addition I temperarily screwed the corner pieces down also. I'll remove all the screws when I go to assemble the booth.
 
Here is the bottom screwed to the table. I'm left handed, thus the offset to the right. The left hand area will be for storage of the airbrush equipment.
 

 
Next I laid down the sides in alignment with the bottom, so I could position the internal corner pieces correctly.
 

 
Then I glued and screwed the pieces in place. I found that even with the bottom piece screwed to the table, the screws in the corner pieces were needed to get them to lay down without a gap.
 
Here's the bottom finished as far as I want to go for now.
 

 
I still have to put in the piece for the bottom of the blower bulkhead, but I'm going to do that after the sides and bottom are assembled. Less chance of having it in the wrong spot, if the sides are not perfectly aligned. A good seal here is essential.
 
I stopped here to let the glue dry overnight.

2/17
 
After going over my drawings one last time, and finding a few errors, I started construction on my Spray Booth.
 

 
I've cut out all the plywood, and ripped a 1 X 6 into 3/4" strips. The strips are for the corners, to strengthen the joints.
 
Here is a picture of the sides, with the strips glued and nailed on. The ply is warped a little, so all the clamps are to hold the glue strips on solid, until the glue dries. I'll let them sit overnight, and do the rest tomorrow, when I the clamps are free.
 

 
The glue strips are sitting over at the left of the ramp. The rectangular arrangement of strips are for the filter mount and blower bulkheads. Most of the case is 3/8" ply (I would have preferred 1/2", but I had the 3/8"). The blower bulkhead is 3/4", as I felt the 3/8" was too thin for this. The notch on the larger end of the one side is a lap joint in the plywood. The ply is 3/8" exterior siding.

Bob, what a delightful pair of launches, I enjoyed watching them come together.
 
Michael

Wow so many responses.  I did not know there were so many following my build.  I'll have to be more carful in the future.  Any way, thank you all for your kind words and encouragement. 
 
Bob

Ron:
The photo below is of the Badger Air Brush spray booth - the fan is 165 cfm.  It is more than adequate for the 13" x 18" size of this unit.  There are times I do not turn on the fan because the air movement draws the paint away from the object being painted.  Using only acrylics, so turning it off isn't a big deal. 
 
I think you may be overpowering the spray booth with the 250 cfm unit but with the depth of your unit being so deep, moving the object out and away from the rear of the box might be the answer to too much air movement.
 
I used 4" metal duct off the fan to go up from the fan, over to the center of the unit - past the motor - and then down.  I secure a nylon stocking over the end of the metal duct to catch any over-spray that isn't caught by the filter in the unit - and some does get by.  Being acrylic, the stuff that gets by the filter is dry particulate and is caught in the piece of stocking.  Also, the Badger paints are virtually odorless so I have never been encouraged by the ADMIRAL to exhaust to the exterior.
 
I like the design you are using and the plexi panes are a nice addition.  Look for a 2' led type light for the top - the more light the better.  I added a light to the top of the Badger unit that is just outside of the front of the box.  This is OK as most of the time my work sits just outside the front of the box anyway to have access to the part being painted, but your location is the optimal location.  The 165 cfm fan in the Badger unit is entirely adequate to catch the over-spray and pull it to the filter so you won't have any problems if you bring the object forward.
 
You will probably want to get a turntable of some sort.  I use the one by Tamiya and every so often I drop it into the paint remover to clean up the top turntable surface.  I have a larger turntable but it's finished wood so I cover it with a piece of newspaper so it stays clean - when it's not being used in the spray booth it sits on the table where club members use it to access the snacks during meetings.
 
Following with interest.  Be sure to let us know how the unit works.
 
Kurt

2/16
 
After looking at a few spray booths, and plans, here is what I'm planning on building. The top has a cutout for a light, I'll put plexiglass in the opening. The top hinges up so I can have more access to the top of the model, or to clear masts, if needed.
 

 
The front lip will also be a plexi piece. I think I'll use plastic wrap as an inside cover to both clear parts. I can strip it off and replace it, when it gets coated.

2/15
Today I had an epiphany. I've been shopping around for a fan to use in a spray paint booth. I'm going to be using acrylic, so "explosion proof" is not a neccessity, even if I could find one. The internet sites say 500 CFM.  Seems a bit high, but start there So, I've been looking at the squirrel cage type with the motor outside the case. Non explosion ones on Ebay with ~150 CFM go for about $60 US. I next thought of using an old dryer blower and motor. Used driers are about $100. I stopped and asked about broken ones at the local places, $35 or more.
 
 
Then I remembered the old electric leaf blower that has been dragging around my shop for 6 years, that my wife bought at a yard sale. Squirrel cage, motor  outside the blower housing, and lots of CFM. I think I have a volunteer!! I'll probably end up building an outside box to house it, to cut down on the noise, but for now construction can begin.
 
After some discussion, about 500 or 600 CFM being way too much flow,  I found a 250 CFM blower on Ebay, and bought that. The leaf blower idea, though, did get me moving on construction.
 
2/15
 
The trouble with the regular hood and bath fans is that the motor is in the air stream, and the vapors (if solvent type) can deteriorate the insulation. The squirrel cage hood fans run about 30 to 50 CFM, too low.
 
You can get new SC fans with about 130 CFM for $60, but if that is not enough, I've wasted the money. The leaf blower is rated 600 CFM. If that is too much I can ramp it down, to find the right value. A 500 CFM new fan runs about $150.
 
A drier runs about 130 also, if I can find a free one, I can try that later.

Started a new thread about the construction of my spray booth. I started detailing it on the “What have you done today” thread, but figured that that was to much info to clutter it with.
 
I’m going to put the earlier postings in with the date I posted them, then continue in this thread. So the beginning may be somewhat choppy, stick with me.

2/15
Today I had an epiphany. I've been shopping around for a fan to use in a spray paint booth. I'm going to be using acrylic, so "explosion proof" is not a neccessity, even if I could find one. The internet sites say 500 CFM.  Seems a bit high, but start there So, I've been looking at the squirrel cage type with the motor outside the case. Non explosion ones on Ebay with ~150 CFM go for about $60 US. I next thought of using an old dryer blower and motor. Used driers are about $100. I stopped and asked about broken ones at the local places, $35 or more.
 
 
Then I remembered the old electric leaf blower that has been dragging around my shop for 6 years, that my wife bought at a yard sale. Squirrel cage, motor  outside the blower housing, and lots of CFM. I think I have a volunteer!! I'll probably end up building an outside box to house it, to cut down on the noise, but for now construction can begin.
 
After some discussion, about 500 or 600 CFM being way too much flow,  I found a 250 CFM blower on Ebay, and bought that. The leaf blower idea, though, did get me moving on construction.
 
2/15
 
The trouble with the regular hood and bath fans is that the motor is in the air stream, and the vapors (if solvent type) can deteriorate the insulation. The squirrel cage hood fans run about 30 to 50 CFM, too low.
 
You can get new SC fans with about 130 CFM for $60, but if that is not enough, I've wasted the money. The leaf blower is rated 600 CFM. If that is too much I can ramp it down, to find the right value. A 500 CFM new fan runs about $150.
 
A drier runs about 130 also, if I can find a free one, I can try that later.

2/16
 
After looking at a few spray booths, and plans, here is what I'm planning on building. The top has a cutout for a light, I'll put plexiglass in the opening. The top hinges up so I can have more access to the top of the model, or to clear masts, if needed.
 

 
The front lip will also be a plexi piece. I think I'll use plastic wrap as an inside cover to both clear parts. I can strip it off and replace it, when it gets coated.

Started a new thread about the construction of my spray booth. I started detailing it on the “What have you done today” thread, but figured that that was to much info to clutter it with.
 
I’m going to put the earlier postings in with the date I posted them, then continue in this thread. So the beginning may be somewhat choppy, stick with me.

Hi Folks .
 I have'nt posted for a while as work and family interfere with the Ship Yard.  With reference to instruction I have purchased the Talhoer Altsu Mendi Tug in the past week..  Curiously the kit is marketed by Disarmodel.
 
I digress.... It comes with a 20 page booklet listing all the parts in Spanish, French ,Italian, English and German.. Also included are a 98 page book of colour step by step instructions and as an addition 4 x A4 sheets of plans how to constuct the steam winch....Very helpful.
 
And that should get me through what seems to be a very good kit.
 
Previous builds...
 
Billigs Le Curieuse...Billings Krabbencutter....Constructo  Enterprise... Artesania Latia  Maria Ii  and Le GranLejon  ...Occre Tramvias Barcelona and Soller....Not ships but 90%  wood and a few Tamiya 1/350 ships
 
 Work in Progress...
 
Caldercraft  HMS  Snake 85% completed...... Artesania Latina   a vintage Charles W Morgan @ 50% complete and fighting all the way.
 
In my Stash
 
Dusek   Golden Hind.....Constructo  Gjoa......Artesaina latina  Jolie Brise and Bon Retour.... Corel Scotland......Talhoer/Disarmodel  Altsu Mendi and last but not least an very old Model Shipways   solid hull Gjoa
 
I should live so long

Thanks for the responses! I know how to convert scale, but guess I don't really know where to find sizing of the original rigging components to scale down.
 
@Chuck: would you say that most model expo kits show accurate sizing of blocks in the materials lists? Or should I only trust the ones you have worked on?
 
Thanks again!

Bob,
Not only good work, but fast work besides. I'm thinking from the end of Oct. to now is about 3.5 months for 2 crafts? Mighty productive!
TB

Beautiful launches Bob.  Very befitting of a day on the river or lake.  

Congratulations on completing and, well, launching your launches, Bob! Cute little things, aren't they?

I posted a few pix of this in my tugboat build log but I thought it might get a few more eyes over here. The Foredom belt sander is an attachment for a flex shaft tool. I have a Foredom but it may fit on others as well. I tried it out on the tug - I had some epoxy I needed to remove from a frame. Took it off in a matter of seconds. This frame fits (or is supposed to fit) around a coaming in the deck. I'd been hand sanding these parts trying to get them to fit. Between the epoxy and a poor glue job (my fault) it needed a lot of work. Again, the sander thinned up the frame in seconds. Problem solved.
 

 

 
The long narrow shape would be great for getting into places a regular (or even miniature) belt sander just wouldn't go. And of course with the foot switch for speed, you've got a lot of options. I was afraid the belts would get used up quickly, but even after the rock hard epoxy it is still ready for more.
 
In my book, this one is a winner.
 

Good Morning Mark,
 
Yes, I agree with you.  Caution is the word.  For example, possibly a typo, the length of the bowsprit varies a full three feet between two editions of Steel.  Also, mast diameters are a bit beefier in latter editions.  I am building Liverpool after her last refit, and between 1776 and 1778 when she sank in Jamaica Bay off of Long Island New York.  I have a set of masts and spars that are on the Model Shipwright plan.  However, they are of mixed scales so you need to be very certain to resize based on the rules in Lee's or Steel.  Also, although much different, David Anscherl's Swan class give clues although you need to go back to the earlier establishment.
 
Very good discussion.  Thanks

Hi Tom;
 
Just one note of caution.  The 1745 establishment might be a better guide to Liverpool,  as this listed mast and yard lengths and diameters for various sizes of vessel.  Steel is about 40 years later than Liverpool (unless you are modelling her after a refit) and there were quite a few rigging changes in those decades (the widespread use of royal sails,  for example) 
 
This establishment only lists a 24 gun vessel,  not a 28,  but Lees will give the formula which applied during this period for calculating main mast length,  and which can be used to work it out for Liverpool. 
 
You could then check this against the establishment,  and work out the proportion for the difference,  if there is one.  The result could also be compared against those listed in Steel.  They may well end up being similar,  but they may not.
 
I would check,  if only for peace of mind.
 
All the best,
 
Mark P

Good Evening Dave,
 
Yes, there are rules for wooldings and latter Iron bands.  Whether wooldings or iron bands was based on period rather than ship size.    If you can get hold of Lees, or better, Steel, there are tabulations of how many mast reinforcements would be required.  Basically, it was based on whether the mast was a "made mast" or a single pole.  In most instances for both British and American vessels, the reinforcement was for the lower masts and for the bowsprit.  Top masts and higher were generally pole masts and do not have reinforcement bands.  I just needed to go to Steel for my current build, HMS Liverpool, a 6the rate, 28 gun frigate built in 1757.  As others have stated, smaller vessels had pole masts and there was no reinforcement needed.  Again, use the available references and you will get the picture.  For example, schooners were small enough that the masts are pole masts.  SO, no wooldings or iron bands.
 
Hope that this helps,
 
Tom

You can use a  number of metal powders. Cast bronze decorative copies of famous statues are made that way. The metal powder do weaken the strength of molded part but look great. I have no idea what the mix ratio of resin to bronze powder is.

Hi Doc;
 
From what I have seen whilst researching among the NMM draughts of masts and spars,  pole masts were used as much as possible until around 1780.  After this date,  New England (American) timber was no longer available,  due to the loss of the American Colonies,  and built masts were required to make up the shortfall.
 
For small vessels,  pole mast timbers could still be imported from the Baltic,  but it would appear that these were not available in such long lengths as the New England timbers,  and far more Naval vessels therefore needed built masts than had been the case previously.
 
I cannot quote any record that states this,  but there are quite a number of mast drawings from the late 1770s,  which show masts for all sizes of ship,  and how many blanks were required to be joined to make the built mast.  Based on the sudden appearance of a complete range of drawings,  it would seem reasonable to assume that prior to this,  built masts were much less required due to larger timber being available.
 
Wooldings were used on larger pole masts to strengthen them against splitting,  but bands were only used on built masts.
 
All the best,
 
Mark P

Very nice boats Bob!! Great workmanship.