wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from drake1588 in First time planking a POB hull
Greetings mrm...
There should be no problems making this twist. The need to twist planks to make them conform to the shape of the hull is quite common. I assume the planking is basswood? All you need to do is soak the basswood strips in water until they are pliable enough to be worked into the shape you need. Usually, I twist them a little by eye before trying them on the hull. Typically, a soak in water of 20 to 30 minutes is all you need get the planks pliable enough for that application. I don't bother with all the voodoo and drama some folks use to bend hull planking such as heating in a microwave, soaking in ammonia/water or soaking in water for days. A little soak time in plain water is a ll you need for basswood.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from Canute in Minimum thickness for planks
Greetings Daniel,
I would agree with with Mark. Plus, the 1mm represents the rough thickness at the time the plank is placed. After sanding, the actual finish thickness will be somewhat less than 1mm. Don't over think.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from Bindy in Maximum length of a deck plank
Greetings,
Just an opinion, but I can't see how you get a single plank over 30', let alone 40' to 60'. To get a plank even 30' would require hauling tree trunks around that were at least that long. I can't see the need for such long deck planks, so why would they bother? It seems that it would have been much easier to handle shorter lengths. Yes, long timber lengths would be advantageous for spars and main structural members, but deck planking? Were such large trees readily available back then? Again, just an opinion based common sense, but I am willing to reconsider.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from mtaylor in Maximum length of a deck plank
Greetings,
Just an opinion, but I can't see how you get a single plank over 30', let alone 40' to 60'. To get a plank even 30' would require hauling tree trunks around that were at least that long. I can't see the need for such long deck planks, so why would they bother? It seems that it would have been much easier to handle shorter lengths. Yes, long timber lengths would be advantageous for spars and main structural members, but deck planking? Were such large trees readily available back then? Again, just an opinion based common sense, but I am willing to reconsider.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from mtaylor in Deck planking and how to show 'caulking'
Greetings,
Agree with vossy and mtaylor. The paper method reads too dark for practically any scale and becomes the "tail wagging the dog". In my opinion, a subtle dark line between planks looks best and compliments the deck and other details rather than competing with them for visual dominance. I have the same opinion about simulating deck fasteners: they always end up way out of scale and dominate the landscape.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from algeciras1801 in HMS Snake by jim_smits - Caldercraft - First Build
Greetings Jim,
Very nice work. May I suggest that the foot ropes don't look natural? Too tight and too perfectly shaped. Loosen them up and let them drape to form curves instead of sharp, precise angles.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in The Batteau by Cap'n Rat Fink - FINISHED - 1/24 - War of 1812
Greetings Cap'n,
Very nice work. Looks like you have everything well in hand.
Seeing the Rat Fink brought back memories. I had a model of the Outlaw when I was a kid. Was it tough to resist the temptation to add a couple of Big Daddy touches, such as bubble canopy or chromed Caddy engine? How about a round front end end like on the Orbitron? He was quite the designer.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from src in First time rigging - being organized
Greetings Richard,
In my opinion, you learn by doing. It seems you already have all the information you need based on the reading, videos, etc. you have absorbed. Plus, you want to make a spread sheet? A revenue cutter is relatively straight forward and a good ship with which to get your feet wet. You will probably take as much time to make a spread sheet as you would to rig the ship, and you won't have gained any skill for the time spent. Just do it, and as other have commented you will become proficient in no time. Don't over think this and don't be afraid to get started. Just do it.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from Canute in Gun ports
Greetings Jpar...
Don't give up the ship, she looks good. As a suggestion:
1. You will need to make all ports the same size and parallel across the top and bottom. Accordingly, determine which one is the largest and make all the rest the same size. Plus, this will allow you to insure that they are all parallel. You
2. Initially, do not cut the openings to finish size. Cut them about a 1/16" under sized all the way around.
3. Next, pack the space between the inner and outer planking full of good wood filler, or model filler. Let this completely harden for a day or so.
4. Then, using needle files, sanding sticks, etc. open up the ports to final size.
5. When you are done, you won't have to frame around the ports.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from mtaylor in Gun ports
Greetings Jpar...
Don't give up the ship, she looks good. As a suggestion:
1. You will need to make all ports the same size and parallel across the top and bottom. Accordingly, determine which one is the largest and make all the rest the same size. Plus, this will allow you to insure that they are all parallel. You
2. Initially, do not cut the openings to finish size. Cut them about a 1/16" under sized all the way around.
3. Next, pack the space between the inner and outer planking full of good wood filler, or model filler. Let this completely harden for a day or so.
4. Then, using needle files, sanding sticks, etc. open up the ports to final size.
5. When you are done, you won't have to frame around the ports.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from mtaylor in Gun ports
Greetings JP....
Did you frame all around ports before applying planking? Typically, if you drill a series of small holes around, and just inside, the finished perimeter dimension of the ports you can cut them out with a #11 blade and then file to final size using the frame as a guide.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from mtaylor in Thinking things trough, the gunport lids
Greetings Daniel,
According to Longridge, the small ports were for ventilation. They were square and "have a special sort of hinge". He said that he did not cut out these ports on his model "but put on an imitation hinge." A photo of his model shows what appears to be an oblong shape at the center of the gun ports which must be this special hinge. A drawing in his book (outboard profile, Plan No.2) shows the hinges on the lower deck gun deck. From the way hinge is shaped, it would appear that it is hinged at the top.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from mtaylor in First time rigging - being organized
Greetings Richard,
In my opinion, you learn by doing. It seems you already have all the information you need based on the reading, videos, etc. you have absorbed. Plus, you want to make a spread sheet? A revenue cutter is relatively straight forward and a good ship with which to get your feet wet. You will probably take as much time to make a spread sheet as you would to rig the ship, and you won't have gained any skill for the time spent. Just do it, and as other have commented you will become proficient in no time. Don't over think this and don't be afraid to get started. Just do it.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from dafi in Thinking things trough, the gunport lids
Greetings Daniel,
According to Longridge, the small ports were for ventilation. They were square and "have a special sort of hinge". He said that he did not cut out these ports on his model "but put on an imitation hinge." A photo of his model shows what appears to be an oblong shape at the center of the gun ports which must be this special hinge. A drawing in his book (outboard profile, Plan No.2) shows the hinges on the lower deck gun deck. From the way hinge is shaped, it would appear that it is hinged at the top.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from dafi in Thinking things trough, the gunport lids
Greetings Daniel,
Photographs of Victory in Longridge's book The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships shows tackles were used to open the port lids. These tackles were rigged to the bottom side of the deck structure above the respective guns. The photos show an eyebolt with ring in each lower corner of the lid - inboard side. Based on the way they were rigged, I expect the weight of the lids would cause them to self close when the tackles were released. The ring bolts were probably used to pull them in tight and lock them in place while under way, as Druxey suggests.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from mtdoramike in Kits to start with and avoid?
Greetings,
Full disclosure: I have not built any AL kits. However, it is my understanding that they are good value for money and good platforms from which to build a decent model. As with everything else, you get what you pay for. Don't expect the best woods, fittings, drawings, instructions, etc. unless you are prepared to pay higher prices than for a typical AL model. Personally, I like MS and Bluejacket models for all experience levels. Plus, made in USA.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from _SalD_ in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
Greetings Sal,
Nice work. Regarding pintles and gudgeons, I expect they were probably castings or wrought iron. If castings, they were probably iron or maybe bronze. I have never heard of cast copper parts because copper is too soft to resist wear. Given the stress pintles and gudgeons were under, I would bet on the iron over bronze. Not sure if builders were aware of galvanic action back then, other than its effects, but bronze and copper would go away very quickly in salt water further weakening stressed parts. Let's see what the "experts" say.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from GLakie in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
Greetings Sal,
Nice work. Regarding pintles and gudgeons, I expect they were probably castings or wrought iron. If castings, they were probably iron or maybe bronze. I have never heard of cast copper parts because copper is too soft to resist wear. Given the stress pintles and gudgeons were under, I would bet on the iron over bronze. Not sure if builders were aware of galvanic action back then, other than its effects, but bronze and copper would go away very quickly in salt water further weakening stressed parts. Let's see what the "experts" say.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from augie in US Brig Syren by _SalD_ – FINISHED - 3/16" scale
Greetings Sal,
Nice work. Regarding pintles and gudgeons, I expect they were probably castings or wrought iron. If castings, they were probably iron or maybe bronze. I have never heard of cast copper parts because copper is too soft to resist wear. Given the stress pintles and gudgeons were under, I would bet on the iron over bronze. Not sure if builders were aware of galvanic action back then, other than its effects, but bronze and copper would go away very quickly in salt water further weakening stressed parts. Let's see what the "experts" say.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from tadheus in La Salamandre by tadheus - 1:24
Greetings Paul,
I think your build technique exactly captures the way models should look. Your model is perfect because, in my opinion, it simulates the way real ships were built. Modelers, myself included, tend to build model ships as if we were building model cars - too much precision. Keep up the good work.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from Dimitris71 in If we learn from our mistakes, I must be pretty smart now.
Greetings Skip...
Nice model. I see no reason why you couldn't install the gun by the stairs. There is no rule that calls for the guns to be perpendicular to the gun ports. I would place it at an angle to the port so that it fits the space. I expect guns were placed as necessary to fit the spaces available.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from CaptainSteve in If we learn from our mistakes, I must be pretty smart now.
Greetings Skip...
Nice model. I see no reason why you couldn't install the gun by the stairs. There is no rule that calls for the guns to be perpendicular to the gun ports. I would place it at an angle to the port so that it fits the space. I expect guns were placed as necessary to fit the spaces available.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from GLakie in If we learn from our mistakes, I must be pretty smart now.
Greetings Skip...
Nice model. I see no reason why you couldn't install the gun by the stairs. There is no rule that calls for the guns to be perpendicular to the gun ports. I would place it at an angle to the port so that it fits the space. I expect guns were placed as necessary to fit the spaces available.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from uss frolick in Can anyone name this 38-gun Artois-class fifth rate frigate of the Royal Navy?
The way he's dressed, I'd say Elton John, 1970.
wq3296
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wq3296 got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Bare feet on deck???
Greetings,
There are far to many variables to draw any conclusions as to who,when, where sailors wore shoes, or not. I expect that from the beginning man sought protection for his feet as the need arose resulting in the development of foot wear. As time went on convention and fashion took over and shoes became the norm even if not needed. However, the default position has always been bare feet and, unless there is a need or a requirement, people prefer to be bare footed. So what if shoes were found on the wreck? All it means is that some folks wore them all the time and others occasionally or not at all - same as today. You cannot draw any meaningful conclusions one way or the other.
Disclaimer: My opinions do not apply to any ships that may have been crewed by women. They seem to love shoes and would find a way to wear a new pair every day even if they had to work in the rigging.
wq3296
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