Cap'n Rat Fink

I'm now fairing the majority of the hull at this time....

Thanks mark, John, Denis,
     Trying to catch up here. Just starting to read your new build log John.
 
 
Hi Ben,
From stern to bow. 14 1/2 inches. Bot sure with the bowsprit haven't gone that far as of yet. She's a little one.


Hi Arthur!


Ok I am thru chapter 5 which works with the building jig that comes with the kit. So I had to work up a plan for me to go on thru the completion of the model. Bob included all the other chapters with this kit to complete the model, but his course w/w Hahn's upside down building jig.
The other clinch it Hahn's method leaves a bit of material on each and every frame. Pulling measurements from the plans the kits frames leave a whole lot less material on the frames. So I have to proceed with caution when I start fairing the hull and cutting the notches out on the frames.
So i am going to alter the jig so I can do the major fairing with the hull still in the jig. But I will have to remove it to complete the fairing higher up on the frames.
One other decision I have to make is there anything I can add to the interior of the hull before I remove it from the jig. I am not experience at all with Hahn's style of building models so I have think things out. Any advice would be nice.

So right now I am dealing with the wing transom. Got one question. Is it better to sand the hull before I install the transom??? If yes then I have to figure how to sand the inside of the hull. HAHA! All frames in, but only the cant frames fore n aft are glued in at this time.

Thanks mark, John, Denis,
     Trying to catch up here. Just starting to read your new build log John.
 
 
Hi Ben,
From stern to bow. 14 1/2 inches. Bot sure with the bowsprit haven't gone that far as of yet. She's a little one.


Hi Arthur!


Ok I am thru chapter 5 which works with the building jig that comes with the kit. So I had to work up a plan for me to go on thru the completion of the model. Bob included all the other chapters with this kit to complete the model, but his course w/w Hahn's upside down building jig.
The other clinch it Hahn's method leaves a bit of material on each and every frame. Pulling measurements from the plans the kits frames leave a whole lot less material on the frames. So I have to proceed with caution when I start fairing the hull and cutting the notches out on the frames.
So i am going to alter the jig so I can do the major fairing with the hull still in the jig. But I will have to remove it to complete the fairing higher up on the frames.
One other decision I have to make is there anything I can add to the interior of the hull before I remove it from the jig. I am not experience at all with Hahn's style of building models so I have think things out. Any advice would be nice.

Thanks mark, John, Denis,
     Trying to catch up here. Just starting to read your new build log John.
 
 
Hi Ben,
From stern to bow. 14 1/2 inches. Bot sure with the bowsprit haven't gone that far as of yet. She's a little one.


Hi Arthur!


Ok I am thru chapter 5 which works with the building jig that comes with the kit. So I had to work up a plan for me to go on thru the completion of the model. Bob included all the other chapters with this kit to complete the model, but his course w/w Hahn's upside down building jig.
The other clinch it Hahn's method leaves a bit of material on each and every frame. Pulling measurements from the plans the kits frames leave a whole lot less material on the frames. So I have to proceed with caution when I start fairing the hull and cutting the notches out on the frames.
So i am going to alter the jig so I can do the major fairing with the hull still in the jig. But I will have to remove it to complete the fairing higher up on the frames.
One other decision I have to make is there anything I can add to the interior of the hull before I remove it from the jig. I am not experience at all with Hahn's style of building models so I have think things out. Any advice would be nice.

Thanks mark, John, Denis,
     Trying to catch up here. Just starting to read your new build log John.
 
 
Hi Ben,
From stern to bow. 14 1/2 inches. Bot sure with the bowsprit haven't gone that far as of yet. She's a little one.


Hi Arthur!


Ok I am thru chapter 5 which works with the building jig that comes with the kit. So I had to work up a plan for me to go on thru the completion of the model. Bob included all the other chapters with this kit to complete the model, but his course w/w Hahn's upside down building jig.
The other clinch it Hahn's method leaves a bit of material on each and every frame. Pulling measurements from the plans the kits frames leave a whole lot less material on the frames. So I have to proceed with caution when I start fairing the hull and cutting the notches out on the frames.
So i am going to alter the jig so I can do the major fairing with the hull still in the jig. But I will have to remove it to complete the fairing higher up on the frames.
One other decision I have to make is there anything I can add to the interior of the hull before I remove it from the jig. I am not experience at all with Hahn's style of building models so I have think things out. Any advice would be nice.

ALL COMMENTS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

Well I have dealt with some of the going on's with the stern of the Hannah. Never have really done a POF of this nature before. So it's a learn as I go.

Please if you see that I have done something incorrectly. Let me know. I am trying to learn these more complicated models.







I had to bevel both ends and re-locate the outer slots to the wing transom for the outside frames. The bevel was for the WT to sit up against the deadwood

Hey been gone awhile witch you. So it took a while catching up with your build. Looks great!!!

ALL COMMENTS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

Well I have dealt with some of the going on's with the stern of the Hannah. Never have really done a POF of this nature before. So it's a learn as I go.

Please if you see that I have done something incorrectly. Let me know. I am trying to learn these more complicated models.







I had to bevel both ends and re-locate the outer slots to the wing transom for the outside frames. The bevel was for the WT to sit up against the deadwood

ALL COMMENTS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

TALKING TO A NOVICE HERE MARK! BUT I FOUND MY PATH. Now if you can tell me how to change the title, things will be good.
 
 
 
 
 
          Well I was away for a long time. So I decided to re-read the kit practicum. To refresh this portion of the build. Glad I did, because it saved me from a lot of work and from making any mistakes.
           Now I have a big learning curve here. So I go with the Ol' saying "MEASURE TWICE CUT ONCE". The practicum comes with all chapters to complete the model. But only goes so far with the JIG from the kit itself. So when I read on with the process I am also looking at pictures showing the explanation with Hahn's upside down JIG. Since I have no experience with either JIG. I'm trying to figure out things with two different JiG Views. So Bob's Jig is lasered cut. Lasers cut at an angle. So I have to file the slots square, Bob also mentions that the builder must also file the slots at angles since the laser will not do this, so the stern frames line up with the wing transom. So after re-reading and finding this little tid-bit of information it cleared things up.
             So at this time I am filing the slots slowly and making sure the stern frames line up correctly with the wing transom. This little jig Bob added to the over all Jig helps hold the stern frames in place, where if it weren't there you would have to use a scrap piece glued to each piece tying them all together. How far can I go with this little slotted jig, before I have to remove it? I don't know. I'll go as far as I can then remove it.






           If I could do it all over again, I would of never glued this part of the jig in. I would of made it fit nice and snug so I could remove it and put it back in place when I needed too. It would of made things easier to measure and view.

Hey been gone awhile witch you. So it took a while catching up with your build. Looks great!!!

ALL COMMENTS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

Hey been gone awhile witch you. So it took a while catching up with your build. Looks great!!!

Hey been gone awhile witch you. So it took a while catching up with your build. Looks great!!!

ALL COMMENTS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

Well I have dealt with some of the going on's with the stern of the Hannah. Never have really done a POF of this nature before. So it's a learn as I go.

Please if you see that I have done something incorrectly. Let me know. I am trying to learn these more complicated models.







I had to bevel both ends and re-locate the outer slots to the wing transom for the outside frames. The bevel was for the WT to sit up against the deadwood

TALKING TO A NOVICE HERE MARK! BUT I FOUND MY PATH. Now if you can tell me how to change the title, things will be good.
 
 
 
 
 
          Well I was away for a long time. So I decided to re-read the kit practicum. To refresh this portion of the build. Glad I did, because it saved me from a lot of work and from making any mistakes.
           Now I have a big learning curve here. So I go with the Ol' saying "MEASURE TWICE CUT ONCE". The practicum comes with all chapters to complete the model. But only goes so far with the JIG from the kit itself. So when I read on with the process I am also looking at pictures showing the explanation with Hahn's upside down JIG. Since I have no experience with either JIG. I'm trying to figure out things with two different JiG Views. So Bob's Jig is lasered cut. Lasers cut at an angle. So I have to file the slots square, Bob also mentions that the builder must also file the slots at angles since the laser will not do this, so the stern frames line up with the wing transom. So after re-reading and finding this little tid-bit of information it cleared things up.
             So at this time I am filing the slots slowly and making sure the stern frames line up correctly with the wing transom. This little jig Bob added to the over all Jig helps hold the stern frames in place, where if it weren't there you would have to use a scrap piece glued to each piece tying them all together. How far can I go with this little slotted jig, before I have to remove it? I don't know. I'll go as far as I can then remove it.






           If I could do it all over again, I would of never glued this part of the jig in. I would of made it fit nice and snug so I could remove it and put it back in place when I needed too. It would of made things easier to measure and view.

ALL COMMENTS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

Well I have dealt with some of the going on's with the stern of the Hannah. Never have really done a POF of this nature before. So it's a learn as I go.

Please if you see that I have done something incorrectly. Let me know. I am trying to learn these more complicated models.







I had to bevel both ends and re-locate the outer slots to the wing transom for the outside frames. The bevel was for the WT to sit up against the deadwood

Hey been gone awhile witch you. So it took a while catching up with your build. Looks great!!!

ALL COMMENTS WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!

Well I have dealt with some of the going on's with the stern of the Hannah. Never have really done a POF of this nature before. So it's a learn as I go.

Please if you see that I have done something incorrectly. Let me know. I am trying to learn these more complicated models.







I had to bevel both ends and re-locate the outer slots to the wing transom for the outside frames. The bevel was for the WT to sit up against the deadwood