lamarvalley

See you can do it !!!!!!!!!!
Very nice !
Chapeau…( French )
Keep on going and it goes better all the time and maybe in the future you gonna like it !
We have both a BIG day today.
We can be proud of our selfs !
I see Popeye are doing it some where but now I want to do it also with you….HIGH FIVE 
 

The translation may be incorrect... It's said that this a Chinese proverb...
 
Who doesn't know and knows he doesn't know is a child... Teach him...
Who knows and doesn't know he knows is in sleep... Wake him up...
Who doesn't know and doesn't know he doesn't know is a stupid... Stay away...
Who knows and knows he knows is a leader... Follow him...
 
You are the fourth...

Looks fantastic to me Andy. A tutorial on how it should be...
have a good voyage
 
oh and yes, we do like that sort of thing with plenty of illuminating sunlight

Hi Randy,
 
When you take a look at my build you will see that I have re-done a few ratlines.
That's also a part of the learning curve…..
Take your benefit with it !
I know you can do it !
And for two builds together…..I had also the same toughest about it.
When I started a new one, the other one will be never finished.
But now I found out that it is nice to have a few builds together.
When I'm tiered of the ratlines ,I can do wood work on the San Ildefonso.
And the Mirage is still going on 
 

I think Ferit gets it right... they look good... and you know it .
Mine, well, haven't attacked them yet.... maybe later today as it is only 6:30 in the morning and I should be able to carve out a bit o' time.

Looks fantastic to me Andy. A tutorial on how it should be...
have a good voyage
 
oh and yes, we do like that sort of thing with plenty of illuminating sunlight

I think Ferit gets it right... they look good... and you know it .
Mine, well, haven't attacked them yet.... maybe later today as it is only 6:30 in the morning and I should be able to carve out a bit o' time.

Hi Randy,
 
Be careful and notice that your ratlines are not straight.
Some are lower on the same rope then the other.
I mean the knots…..
When you tide them up, drop a little glue on the knot and then use a tweezer to make the knot in the right place and let the rope goes with the line on the template.
Then it goes straight…...
They are not terrible but you can do better ! 
And you can always do the same thing as I do.
Make another row between the ones who are all ready there.
If you have any question about it or you want to see a picture how I do it, please let me know.
I have to work tomorrow and when I get home I shall look for your replay.
Don't give up my friend.
You are on the right track !!!!
 

They look pretty darn good to me Sjors... I think I read something somewhere that said the people of that time were taller than most... so the distance between ratlines might just be perfect.

Thanks Frank but you are to late 
I have all ready place a few in between…...
 
@ Randy,
 
Rome is not build in one day !
Remember that !
For the distance….use a template behind the shrouds.
It works perfect !
When you closed the knot, Take a tweezer en pull the rope tight that is coming from the left side.
Then pull a little at the long rope and let it go.
Then you have a nice straight rope and a good knot.
Don't forget to put a little glue on the knot to keep him in place.
And I want to see pictures from you tonight !
And because I'm a Commodore and you are a Commander, you have to follow orders…...        
 

They look pretty darn good to me Sjors... I think I read something somewhere that said the people of that time were taller than most... so the distance between ratlines might just be perfect.

They look pretty darn good to me Sjors... I think I read something somewhere that said the people of that time were taller than most... so the distance between ratlines might just be perfect.

Hi Randy I must admit 3000 pieces is a lot ( have only done 1000 pieces before) but at least it will keep me busy for awhile.
 
for building that probably will still be weeks before I know.
 
whatever the verdict I will at least finish this build

Thursday, August 1, 2013 - Deck planking almost finished
 
Yesterday afternoon I 95% finished the deck planking. Today that glues is totally dry I proceeded to smooth with sandpaper (intermediate grain and subsequently finer) all the strips of the deck, to remove glue in excess and to level the whole. Needed some time and patience. . but still nothing if compared to what is coming for the hull.
 
Then I proceeded to apply a generous coat of wood oil. The color became almost immediately warmer and appealing even if what you can see in the pictures here is not the exact color due to the use of the camera flash. I have to wait until next morning to take daylight pictures outside . . but I can not tomorrow . . it will be a task for Saturday. .
 
I still have to refine the deck openings for the lower floors e masts partially covered by planks. And aft there is a small piece, covering the bowsprit, still uninstalled. 
After long days of hot weather with impossibility to dedicate my time to shipmodeling i'm too eager to show something . .
 
01
 
02
 
03
 
Cheers, Jack.Aubrey
 
High Resolution Images:
01 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090637.jpg
02 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090638.jpg
03 http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/12/86/14/83/p1090641.jpg

Greetings, Salutations and Hello Happy Modelers!
 
Work has continued on all fronts, the Mayflower included.  So far this is my favorite build of the three - I think it is because things are clicking for the most part and it is moving along.
 
I have started putting the posts and rails in and it is beginning to look more like the Mayflower (always nice with some of those goal moments where things begin to change the look and feel of the ship - I like it!).
 
I used Swiss Pear for the posts to give it some color and a slightly dark compliment to the rest of the ship.  The same wood and tint used on the hatches and the grates which help tie it all together. 
 
The foredeck is together and ready to go and posts have begun getting installed along the main deck.  Tedius, but each one looks a bit better
 
Had a little bit of stress damage on the foredeck bulkhead, but that will be filled and sanded out with little issue so not to worried about it.
 
Once all of the posts and rails are in I will be sanding it with the same 10:2ish ratio of natural to golden oak to blend all the woods together.
 
Oh - here are the pics!
 
 
Posts started getting installed,  I used a scrap piece of lumber to get the spacing.  The foredeck is a little of but i got it right later.  Luckily it isn't SO far off that it jumps out at you, it still looks good and "works" but to me it was a DERNIT!!!  moment.    A thin piece of basswood is used arond the edges of the inside deck which not only acts as waterways but also hides those oopsie not so nice cuts... so, wait, what not so nice cuts - can't see em; they don't exist!!

 
Railings are up,  spaced 1/8 inch off the side - again using scrap lumber to maintain the spacing all around.

 

 
Started working the main deck posts and will continue around and rail them. Then sand, finish and stain everything to blend it all together =)
 

 
 
 
Thank you all for stopping by and following along, the company and kind words and interest are appreciated!   Great crowd here at MSW!!!
 
 
Enjoy and Happy Modeling!!!
 
 
 
-Adam
 
 
 

Frank,
 
Thanks for your comments and interest in the posts.
 
I have become a true believer in liver of sulfur on copper to make model parts. Every time I use the blue solutions on brass or soldered brass I become more convinced. One reason is that the sulfur acidic solution neutralizes to an inert state quickly and naturally, so there is no remaining residue to keep working on the metal - or the wood. The selenious blue solutions are salts, so they never neutralize. Therefore, they need to be completely, repeat completely, rinsed out of the part and its crevices or they will continue to work, causing the effects we so normally see - sometimes weeks later.
 
Here is a link to the liver of sulfur product I have been using.
 
http://www.amazon.com/Liver-Sulfur-Gel--4oz-SOL-610-04/dp/B0058ECZ56/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1375359424&sr=8-5&keywords=liver+of+sulfur+gel
 
I put a few drops of water into a small plastic cup, dip the tip a small brush (No. 5 round watercolor brush) into the gel and stir it around in the water. The solution is yellow. If you will pardon my saying, it looks like urine. I then either drop the part into it and swish it around or brush it on the installed part. If the part is clean it will turn black in less than ten seconds. I then either remove the part and let it dry or wash off the installed part with the same brush dipped in clean water and let it dry.
 
The solution has very short life. In a few minutes a neutral white oxide precipitate begins to form and H2S is given off as a byproduct as the solution becomes inert. The H2S causes the odor, but in the small amounts I use in each application it is almost unnoticeable. With the sulfur going off as a gas the remaining neutral liquid is left. This is the reason it does not affect the wood, even if not washed off. It will also not blacken copper.
 
If you use a concentrated solution or just brush on the gel the black will scale off and the wood around it will probably be stained. Dilution is the solution. Make the solution only strong enough to do the job.
 
I do not heat either the part or the water. I use room temperature tap water. Sometimes it is filtered Brita water but that seems to make no difference.
 
I should of course mention cleaning of the part because that is critical. If the copper has a coating on it, it will not blacken. Some wire sold for hobbyists is coated. Use only uncoated material. Also, a polished part will blacken better. Oil from, drilling, tools or handling will be a barrier to the process. I use acetone to remove these residues by immersion or washing with a brush or Q-tip, often after the part is installed. Do not handle parts after cleaning except with clean tweezers. Acetone is very volatile and like all solvents can be harmful to your health if used in an unventilated space. If you are concerned about this, use isopropanol, a less volatile, but also a less universal solvent.
 
If you want to blacken soldered parts, use a copper phosphorus silver solder. Normal silver solder resists the sulfur and does not blacken. Here is a link for the solder I use:
 
http://www.contenti.com/products/soldering/420-860.html
 
Hope this helps. Let us know.
 
Ed

Hello friends.
There are three rider ( Kattspore ) in all reinforcing the hull.
The hooks and half-hooks of the mainmast step and the mast-step carlings.
These timbers are made up of a number of pieces because of their shape.
 
Karl
 
T e i l  30
 
 

Beautiful job Ferit. The sag is perfect... I can only hope mine look half as good.

Sanding, touch-up filling, and re-opening the gunports is just starting move along.  I've hit it with 220 grit and I'll follow up with 320 and possibly 600 once the gunports are proper.  I'm pretty happy with the planking so far.  Photo is without flasha and colors look pretty close to what I see. 
 

Eh... dinghy... row boat... whatever... for now it's an oarless tho nicely made vessel that answers to any name

Okay Augie..."row" boat... "life" boat... "life line when the big one sinks" boat... a rose is a rose... anyway.. it's 10:30 am way far east and I've had my coffee but that doesn't mean the brain cells are running at peak performance

Oh, you'd get a call if she would listen to me... but...
I can see it now... 'dear, Sjors sad I am free of doing the dishes until next summer'
 
once she stopped laughing she would then inform me I picked up floor scrubbing duty as well :D after of course... doing the dishes

Oh you can run Sjors but you'll be back.... a little break-away might be called for... but yeah, you'll be back

What a faith in me         
The only time that I take a break is when i have to work.
Or doing the housekeeping 
 

Little boat is finished.
It's not the quality that Grant is showing, but I'm happy with it !
I have to make some oars but that's for later because I have to buy a few dowels.
And of course pictures!