lamarvalley

Happy birthday Randy, happy lifetime...

Hi Randy,
 
Happy birthday from me to.
Here's one for you and many more to come.
 
Sjors

Hello Randy,
 

 
I hope you have a great day.
 
Anja

I am so glad your back!!!!   you've created such a great looking build....I've missed not seeing any progress!  these would be called cannonades......am I right?  ........I gotta get me a ship with cannons    they're very well done,  and set in place,  they look even better!
 
   I try and put stuff off as well.........the admiral and I have an agreement though.......she's more than willing to let me show my inner child,  but I have to keep my chores up too.  if I don't,  I can't get the bling and baubles I need for my ships.  she can't use the  'kit card'  on me anymore........she knows I can scratch build Hee....Hee
 
a poem came to me,  when I saw your post
I thought I was seeing a spectoral ghost
I clicked on it to read your text
and quite surprised at what I saw next
 
pictures,  pictures,  came to view
of lovely cannons, shiny and new
all set in place,  in neat little rows
which bolstered me to write this prose
 
we all know life likes to get in the  way
of the modeling we'd love to do every day
words become jumbled, causes me to say
 
pay the piper...'n...keep the peace
'cuz the more you pay........the more it's worth
 
AHOY!  from New Hampshire

The port side...

Thak you gentlemen for popping in and the good words, greatly appreciated!!
 
Popeye,  Below are some close up pictures - mind you I am way out of my comfort zone with close ups (I still havn't figured out how you guys get such awesome close up clean work, mine is all arms length work so far)  but figured what the heck.
 
So pardon the quality of the close up (am a bit embarassed by it to be honest)
 
I can see on the close up where I actually need to do a weeeee bit of touch up on the white caulking frame on the inside of the center window so that was good I guess
 
 
A blown up view of the back (still doesn't look bad)

 
 
Close up of the windows (OMG at this close up what the heck!!! How you guys do such awesome close up work is escaping me to no end)
 

 
 
 
-Adam

I'm sorry Randy...
You are right, if something begin to deviate from the path, it has to be left aside for a while... You should repose your mind... An error occurred... You should shut down and restart it to recover the system and to install updates...

Progress !!
I started roughly shaping  the hull with grid 60
 

 

 

 
After this I started using grid 100, grid 150, grid 240 and finished the hull with grid 400.
On the pictures down below I gave ½ the hull bees wax (color “blonde”) and on these you will notice immediately the warm glow of Sapelli wood taking over the picture
 

 
So this is the current state.
I must admit that it is not perfect and i have learned during the whole progress, but in general i'm very pleased with the result..
 

 

 

 
 

Just happened upon your build log Bankie... she's looking great. I'm enjoying your progress and look forward to more to come

good evening 
 
rudder saga continues
 
at last i am 99% happy with the result, took far longer than it should, stopping and listening to the cricket test match didn't help, what a game
 
i dont know why it, it took so long all everything seamed to be in the right place until it can to matching the rudder to the stern post, and continually moving this or moving that, i am not painting the straps black, it seams to make it all to much (in yr face) i will let it tarnish with the rest of the plates
 
some tiles to replace, some more nails to insert and then i can move on
 
all the best

Thanks Mick, I’m looking forward to that myself 
 
In the meantime I found out that the provided keel in the kit was cut in plywood and additionaly had an “funny” color.
I think it is a shame to use it side by side with the sapelli covered hull and decided to scratch build them from a 5mm Mahogany sheet.
 

 
After having cutout the bow section of the keel, I made an mistake during drilling of the holes .
As you might notice the holes are not equally spaced..
 

 
Instead of starting all over again, I decided to be a bit creative and break-up the bow section in separate parts.
After this I could easily replace the section with the wrongly cut holes
 

 
Here's the end-result
 

Thank you all for your kind words,
It is really appreciated & is encouraging me in a way that i'm not longer try to settle with any compromise
 
I know that this might seem like a small update, but it took me some time to produce all the 28 carriages. So here’s the pictures where all 28 are nicely lined up           ..i can barely wait to put them in line on the ST.. 

... says master model shipwright Randy.  May I remind you that I steal all the good ideas from your superb work?  Your build really is an inspiration for me.

Nice and neat Ray... fantastic!

Very nice Sjors... crisp and clean. Well done.
 
As to the wolves back in the Netherlands... good.... every nation needs apex predators.. other than politicians I mean

Trucks
 
I gave a bit of thought on the easiest way to make the Trucks (wheels) without resorting to using dowel - the grain would run the wrong way, although at this scale it would be difficult to pick the difference.
 
The Trucks are 4" thick, the Hind Trucks are 10.5" in diameter and the Fore Trucks are 12" diameter. On larger guns they were made from four pieces of timber with the grain running crosswise to each other and bolted together, but a 6-pounder's trucks were made from one solid piece.
 
I started off by cutting a strip of timber a little wider than the required diameter. I set up a simple stopper jig on my mill vice by CA'ing a couple of pieces of scrap to the top and drilling the 2mm centre hole. Then I cut the piece off square on the table saw.
 

 
To hold the piece into the lathe for turning the outside diameter I used a spare mandrel from my Dremel accessories. The screw was only 1.7mm, so I turned up a small brass sleeve to give a snug fit to the hole. When tightened it held the piece of timber beautifully.
 

 

 

 
I found it difficult to remove the truck from the mandrel, so I drilled a slightly smaller hole than the truck in a piece of scrap. By placing the piece over the hole I could easily remove it by pushing it into the hole :
 

 
There was a burr on one side of each piece after turning it, so to hold the rather awkward round piece without damaging it while sanding I drilled another hole in my piece of scrap which was slightly larger than the diameter of the truck and a bit less than it's thickness. The piece protrudes slightly from this hole, and a couple of wipes with a sanding stick soon removes the burr :
 

 

 

 
A view of the progress so far. The carriage sits on top of a 5 cent piece :
 

 
  Danny

Very nice Sjors... crisp and clean. Well done.
 
As to the wolves back in the Netherlands... good.... every nation needs apex predators.. other than politicians I mean

Very nice Sjors... crisp and clean. Well done.
 
As to the wolves back in the Netherlands... good.... every nation needs apex predators.. other than politicians I mean

Very nice Sjors... crisp and clean. Well done.
 
As to the wolves back in the Netherlands... good.... every nation needs apex predators.. other than politicians I mean

I finally made progress with my rudder pintles and gudgeons.  I struggled to crimp the brass strip provided with the kit tightly enough around the brass wire to form the pintle.  When I did crimp it tightly, the pintle did not fit in the notch provided in the rudder.  Instead, it protruded a mile behind the rudder, resulting in a huge gap between the rudder and the transom.
 
I asked for help over in the Tips & Techniques section and Jack Tar shared his fantastic technique to fasten rudders.  It results in natural looking pintles & gudgeons without the crimping pains.  (Thanks again Jack!)
 
I was going down that route when the Admiral’s father suggested a simple jig to solve my problems.  I filed a 5mm slot in a piece of aluminium.  At the bottom of the slot I filed another narrow slot (2mm) – just wide enough for the wire forming the bolt of the pintle plus twice the thickness of the brass strip. 
 

 
From a piece of brass rod I filled a “negative” template that fits into the slots I made in the aluminium.
 

 
From here the process was easy.  I placed the brass strip in the aluminium slot, placed the brass rod in and tapped the whole contraption with a hammer.  Voila.  For final adjustments, and to get the edges nice and square, I placed the brass strip over the brass rod and tapped it lightly with a hammer on all sides.
 



 
The result is a tightly formed partial pintle that holds the wire forming the bolt tightly, even before any glue is applied.   The pintle also fits neatly into the notch provided for it in the rudder.
 

 
The next step is to blacken the brass parts before attaching it to the rudder. 

I think you're english is very good Ferit... a little mistake here and there but so what, everybody makes mistakes and I think what you intend to say is easy to understand ... I can only imagine how bad I would sound if I had to speak your native tongue.

Update of my progress over the weekend...
 
Glued the stem and cutwater to the false keel (I had to sand quite a bit of the parts away to get rid of the charring left by the laser cut.)
 
I measured the required “overhang” of the keel plank at the stern and cut it off at a 30 degree angle as instructed.  I should not have done that.  I should have measured the angle of the rudder’s corner that will be adjacent to the keel’s protruding point once the rudder is mounted. I will now have to file the rudder’s corner a bit so that it fits snugly against the keel when it is mounted. 
 
I knew that clamping the keel plank during the gluing process would be a challenge (the keel plank that came with my kit is as crooked as a banana!)  To solve the problem I drilled three 0.8mm holes in the keel and glued pieces of wire into them.  Once dried, I trimmed the wires leaving about 4mm sticking out. 
 

 
Then I marked and drilled 0.8mm holes in the false keel for the wires to fit into.  This allowed my keel plank to fit snugly into the proper position (I almost couldn’t get the keel plank loose again after I tested the fit… so I naturally drank 3 beers to calm my nerves before I tried again.  Or that’s what I told the Admiral at least...)
 


 
Finally, I glued the keel plank to the false keel.  I used electrical insulation tape to hold the keel plank down while the glue dried.  Unlike masking tape, the insulation tape sticks quite well to wood - but still pulls off very easily without leaving any sticky residue or marks. 
 

 

Put the camera on a stack of books or a sturdy table, pre-focus and touch the shutter ever so gently.... might take a few tries but as long as the camera doesn't move when the shutter is open then it's picture time... Yea!!

Looking good Eddie and your repair is spot on. Nice looking lines on that vessel.

Well guys, after finally getting all the gun deck ports cut in and the framing of the gun deck done I went to work on the out side of the hull installing the main wale. Montagu main wale was four strakes of 8 1/2 inch thick planks, with the upper two being locked together and the bottom two being locked together. When I mean locked together am talking about a hook anchor type of plank. Peter Goodwin shows this in his book but I also found to primary plans of it one being the Elizebeth and ,Montagues. I like Elizebeth wale and also her other planking that Montaguplanking is taken after her. Being that I don't have any ideally of which type was applied, felt safe following her's. Now when it came to the thickness of this planking I decided to do it in two layers both being applied hook anchor type planking. Doing the first layer like this gave me a chance to practice before I layed the outside layer and once it was done,it was dyed black and given a coat or two of wax. I wanted a black wale but didn't want to mess with ebony and one can not tell the difference when you look at it with ebony laying next to it. Another one of those interesting items that was fun to do.