Mark Pearse

We're all boat trajics here, so I doubt anyone will mind if I go off-topic, on my own blog: I'll be away for a few weeks, happily going to the Wooden Boat festival at Hobart. But, even more exciting, I'm sailing on a small boat raid for 10 days leading up to the festival.
 
The red dots are the intended stops, starting down the bottom. For context, the detail map is the orange rectangle on the other one. The first few days are obvious exposed to the south & south-east. But assuming the weather is ok, it should be really good, some wonderful country there.

 

Thanks everyone. And no longer a whiter shade of pale....
 
I'll give the Humbrol paint a few days to harden, but it seems less hard than previously. The unmasking went ok, quite a few small tears, even though I sanded everything between coats. I'll need to work on them, one tiny spot at a time. The paint mix ended up about 20-25% satin & the rest gloss, with a few drops of Penetrol. 
 
Black is quite unforgiving, it shows flaws more than paler colours. But I'm pretty happy with the most recent coat & I'll have a good look over the next few days..

 


 
The transom may need another coat, as the flatness is even more unforgiving than curved black.

 

We're all boat trajics here, so I doubt anyone will mind if I go off-topic, on my own blog: I'll be away for a few weeks, happily going to the Wooden Boat festival at Hobart. But, even more exciting, I'm sailing on a small boat raid for 10 days leading up to the festival.
 
The red dots are the intended stops, starting down the bottom. For context, the detail map is the orange rectangle on the other one. The first few days are obvious exposed to the south & south-east. But assuming the weather is ok, it should be really good, some wonderful country there.

 

Thank you Roel, & I like the colours too. I'm doing a model of a specific boat that has these colours, so the timber choice in the case was to replicate the timber on the original, but it does go very nicely  with black.
 
One aspect I'm thinking about is the stand. I've decided to do a flat rectangular base that replicates a boat yard hard-stand area....spilt paint, etc, & the model held up with scaled support frames, some photos below. Maybe a piece of thick compressed fibre cement sheet as a base....

 

 

 
 
 

Thanks everyone. And no longer a whiter shade of pale....
 
I'll give the Humbrol paint a few days to harden, but it seems less hard than previously. The unmasking went ok, quite a few small tears, even though I sanded everything between coats. I'll need to work on them, one tiny spot at a time. The paint mix ended up about 20-25% satin & the rest gloss, with a few drops of Penetrol. 
 
Black is quite unforgiving, it shows flaws more than paler colours. But I'm pretty happy with the most recent coat & I'll have a good look over the next few days..

 


 
The transom may need another coat, as the flatness is even more unforgiving than curved black.

 

Hi Vaddoc,
 
If it is a print that you are talking about, one possible reason for a small error is that some printers slightly shrink to fit the page, without telling you. If you drafted in CAD to a certain size virtual page (eg A3), then when you print, you print to A3 paper size, but the virtual A3 is slightly reduced by the edge margin of the paper that the printer can't print on. The solution is to find the option in the print dialogue window that allows you to set the printing to 100% scale. 

Hi Vaddoc,
 
If it is a print that you are talking about, one possible reason for a small error is that some printers slightly shrink to fit the page, without telling you. If you drafted in CAD to a certain size virtual page (eg A3), then when you print, you print to A3 paper size, but the virtual A3 is slightly reduced by the edge margin of the paper that the printer can't print on. The solution is to find the option in the print dialogue window that allows you to set the printing to 100% scale. 

Hi Vaddoc,
 
If it is a print that you are talking about, one possible reason for a small error is that some printers slightly shrink to fit the page, without telling you. If you drafted in CAD to a certain size virtual page (eg A3), then when you print, you print to A3 paper size, but the virtual A3 is slightly reduced by the edge margin of the paper that the printer can't print on. The solution is to find the option in the print dialogue window that allows you to set the printing to 100% scale. 

Hi Vaddoc,
 
If it is a print that you are talking about, one possible reason for a small error is that some printers slightly shrink to fit the page, without telling you. If you drafted in CAD to a certain size virtual page (eg A3), then when you print, you print to A3 paper size, but the virtual A3 is slightly reduced by the edge margin of the paper that the printer can't print on. The solution is to find the option in the print dialogue window that allows you to set the printing to 100% scale. 

Hi Steven
 
Some responses from the gallery:
 
In modern traditionally built yachts: yes, definitely. The planks ends are then housed which gives you a backed recess into which to bang the caulking, pitch, putty etc. it's a really important joint. And if the stern post is hit heavily by anything (such as a dock), the impact load is somewhat transferred to the planking & on to the hull at large, instead of pushing the stern post only.
 
 
To my simplistic thinking it's logical they would have rounded it. But it would be easy to have it square & not foul anything - it's just a question of where the pivot point is, closer to hull or further away. 

Hi Steven
 
Some responses from the gallery:
 
In modern traditionally built yachts: yes, definitely. The planks ends are then housed which gives you a backed recess into which to bang the caulking, pitch, putty etc. it's a really important joint. And if the stern post is hit heavily by anything (such as a dock), the impact load is somewhat transferred to the planking & on to the hull at large, instead of pushing the stern post only.
 
 
To my simplistic thinking it's logical they would have rounded it. But it would be easy to have it square & not foul anything - it's just a question of where the pivot point is, closer to hull or further away. 

Your exploration of the hull via CAD was very interesting, & CAD drawings are useful in understanding the object drawn. Like you, I also used CAD to get an initial idea of the planking angles where they meet the keel, stem etc.

Thanks Steve, the first legs are quite exposed to the south & SE, & of course the weather changes pretty quickly down there. I'll post some photos on return.
 

Thanks Steve, the first legs are quite exposed to the south & SE, & of course the weather changes pretty quickly down there. I'll post some photos on return.
 

Your exploration of the hull via CAD was very interesting, & CAD drawings are useful in understanding the object drawn. Like you, I also used CAD to get an initial idea of the planking angles where they meet the keel, stem etc.

Phil, I have no doubt you are right. It will all be hidden and there is nothing that a bit of sanding and a bit of filler cannot correct. And indeed, a small piece of plank material is enough to just find the shape of the rabbet at that frame. I went through your log and of course your hull came out fine.
Apologies, just going a bit overboard with CAD! 
Not to worry though, things will soon revert to normality and will start going pear shaped the moment I touch the ply with a chisel!
 
Vaddoc

Sounds like that will a brilliant trip, Trevor. A very lovely part of the world down there.
 
John

Sadly, no. My years down-under were half a lifetime ago. Now, I'm half a world away.

thanks John, my trip - but who knows, I might bump into Trevor 

Hi Trevor
 
That sounds like an amazing trip. The weather changes more rapidly in Tassie than in NSW, & I'd rather keep the wind below 20 knots ..... IF HUEY IS LISTENING.....

We're all boat trajics here, so I doubt anyone will mind if I go off-topic, on my own blog: I'll be away for a few weeks, happily going to the Wooden Boat festival at Hobart. But, even more exciting, I'm sailing on a small boat raid for 10 days leading up to the festival.
 
The red dots are the intended stops, starting down the bottom. For context, the detail map is the orange rectangle on the other one. The first few days are obvious exposed to the south & south-east. But assuming the weather is ok, it should be really good, some wonderful country there.

 

We're all boat trajics here, so I doubt anyone will mind if I go off-topic, on my own blog: I'll be away for a few weeks, happily going to the Wooden Boat festival at Hobart. But, even more exciting, I'm sailing on a small boat raid for 10 days leading up to the festival.
 
The red dots are the intended stops, starting down the bottom. For context, the detail map is the orange rectangle on the other one. The first few days are obvious exposed to the south & south-east. But assuming the weather is ok, it should be really good, some wonderful country there.

 

Almost like bought one....it looks like the top edge of the boot top line didn't have quite enough lift towards the bow, just the last part. I usually find that going back & adjusting something is less work than I expected, so I jumped in & started it.
 
I scratched the black paint off, after carefully cutting against the side of the masking tape to give a sharp line to scratch off up to. Will undercoat, sand, topcoat, sand  etc etc. A bit like the Spam song....

 

 
 

I did a bit more work on the boat, so time for an update.
 
@Mark Pearse Indeed Mark, I wanted to build something much larger and more of a proper ship. I actually looked into building Ed's Young America POF, but this would be an extremely expensive project which at this time cannot be considered. I bumped onto Hercules and immediately liked the boat - rest is history! (in the making) 
 
So, I cut the space for the propeller and removed some of the paper template so that the frames can slide into place - they do not actually, all the frame slots need filling as they are not wide enough.
 
I also cut all the filler pieces for both sides and sanded all their bevels. These are needed to give support to the garboard planks as I will not be filling the gaps between the frames with wood. This went remarkably well, although some of the bevels had complex shapes. I only had to redo 3 out of the 30 pieces.

This is a piece that had to be redone, the disk sander is not forgiving.

I also sanded all the bevels in the frames. It went well but some fairing will be needed for the frames at the middle of the hull. These are all the pieces that need to be glued. This will need a lot of work: the paper template will need to be removed and the surface sanded or scraped to remove the glue residue and the pieces temporarily screwed in to check that the frames can slide between them.  I think I ll use epoxy, it is a messy glue but has great gap filling properties.

The elegant curves of the hull and frames, or alternatively Hercules after a dose of Delayed Mouse Making Potion.


I am assuming that my CAD plans are accurate and that I ve cut the wood accurately. Of course neither is certain. The bevels seem reasonable though.


I will need to cut the rabbet before I install the frames. I will first though glue on the filler pieces, as the angle of their bevel will help cutting the hull bevel. In theory, I have all I need to cut the rabbet accurately as all lines and the interaction of the planking with the hull are marked on the templates. However, chiseling plywood is difficult and requires extra sharp chisels. 

Take care all
 
Vaddoc

Thanks. 
Yes and no.  Corel is not really helpful.
The only thing I base it on are the colors on the Brandenburg Marine painting.