Mike Dowling
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Everything posted by Mike Dowling
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I thought some mean person might want some pictures !!! I will post some soon and give everyone a good laugh !
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- lady smith
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So, like a nutcase I have still decided to scratch build the boat !!! There is just no hope for some people and I discover that I can be very stubborn and refuse to give up !! I purchased an Einhall scroll saw. What a complete load of rubbish !!! The saw action was so slow even on maximum setting that it wouldn't have cut a bar of chocolate !! Added to which, despite the blade tension, the blade moved off in practically a sideways direction as soon as I tried to cut something. Needless to say it has gone back. I cut out most of the frames with a coping saw and after huge amounts of sanding they are nearly right - still some work to do though and some pieces so small that I just can't do them that way. So, (!!!!!) I ordered another dremel moto saw working on the principal that lightening doesn't strike twice in the same place. I plan to try it out tomorrow. Basically it is a very good idea for a machine as it is neat, fixes solidly to my work desk (!!!) and has very good variable speeds. Of course it only takes dremel blades which are a not standard length but I guess you can't have everything. It packs away into a very neat carrying case which is always a bonus I think. I just hope it survives my attempts. Anyway for those who are interested - you sad lot - I will let you know how I get on. By way of a PS. I now know why Constructo stopped manufacturing this particular model. The instructions are definitely not suitable for a novice and their method of marking, not cutting parts is horrendous. This has to be a scratch build - I don't believe anyone could do this as kit.]
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The scroll saw was bought through Amazon and, despite the delay their customer service dept. issued an immediate refund and returns label. Can't ask for better than that ! I doubt I will replace it with another Dremel if they break that easily but the idea of having a scroll saw hasn't gone away - seems like a very useful piece of kit. I just need to find a good make. I could of course progress this kit with a coping saw and sandpaper but I wonder if it is worthwhile. I did buy the kit on ebay and on finding it incomplete again got an immediate refund without return. So, in fact I have lost nothing so far other than replacement wood which I am sure I will use at some point and a bit of temper loss at such an early breakage. I think I will put all the bits back in the box for another day and get on with some of the other kits I have in my stash !!
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Thank you matey !!! I really have looked everywhere that came with this 'savaged' kit and the numbers for the parts really don't exist on the instructions, plans or anywhere. That is why I was hoping to find someone out there in the bright blue yonder who had done the same kit and survived the problems !! I had vowed that I wouldn't do another Constructo kit as their die-cast cutting is pathetic at best so, it probably serves me right and I should have stuck to my vow!! The thought is appreciated though, I didn't mean to sound rude.
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Oh great !!!!! I cut out one piece and all the vertical lines on the false keel to take the frames and sure enough my first piece fitted beautifully. Then the blade broke on my brand new, Christmas present Dremel moto saw. For reasons best known to others this has broken the blade holding and tensioning mechanism on the saw so you can't get a new blade in at all now. Isn't life wonderful ?!!! My dilemma now is, do I try to cut out all those pieces with a coping saw by hand and use loads of sandpaper afterwards. Do I get a replacement Dremel - I don't think so if they break so easily !! Do I get a different make of scroll saw (recommendations welcomed) or do I just bin the project, put it down to experience and forget scratch building ? All hints and suggestions warmly welcomed.
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The piece you numbered 3 I have surmised is actually a piece of deck at the focsle which would then explain the two number 8 pieces which will go in about the middle of the hull. The two curvy bits (upper middle on the picture) would be number 16s and the bits on the upper left are frames which go below piece number 3 at the focsle. Anyway, this all leads to your help being invaluable - thank you very much. As a matter of interest, is this a vessel that you are familiar with or did you work out the numbers from experience ?
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Thank you very much for that, I think I can make sense of it. I reckon as this boat has comparatively parallel sides that the nearly identical pieces will run around the middle of the hull. The false keel is shown as one piece and I don't think it splits but the deck has two levels, roughly in two halves so that would make sense. Anyway, I will have a go and see how good I am with a motorised fret saw !! Never used one before but got one for Christmas. Fingers crossed !!
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No I am afraid not, there are photos of the construction process but they won't really help as it is unclear from them which frame is which.
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I could take a photo of the empty sheet showing the outlines. Is that what you meant ?
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Can anybody help me with a problem I have. I have obtained a used kit of the Constructo Lady Smith boat but nearly all of the die-cut and laser cut pieces have been removed. I am left with the wood sheets with only the outlines to play with. I am going to try to scratch build the parts using the 'empty' sheets as templates, brave huh ? My real problem is that the sheet which would have contained all the hull pieces and frames would I guess have had the part numbers printed on them as there is no reference to this sheet in the instructions. Can anyone help me with numbering these parts ?
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I would not use super glue at all on second planking, it will always show through varnish or whatever finish you decide on.
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If it is of any help I don't use contact adhesive at all. Just PVA (white glue). I also don't use pins but have found that sticky tape works well without leaving holes in the planks for the second planking.
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I agree completely. I think the length of the yard would look very strange if shortened. I think it will look fine once rigged but quite rightly GLakie has pointed out that you might want to keep going up. You have got to make good use of your lathe after all !!!! Still jealous !
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With a name like 'Dowling' I know all about this Irish stuff!!!! As for using a lathe, I haven't done that since I was at school, a very, very long time ago!! It's no good you being flashy because you have one and I don't. I am jealous though !!
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Are you going to put the first 'layer' of yards on ? Don't ask me what they are called but you know what I mean.
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They look absolutely brilliant, you should be well pleased along with being thrilled at not having to tie any more for a while !! Well done sir!
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Thanks for that. Your twisted lanyards post was interesting but I found with the bottom deadeyes fixed and making sure the shrouds were not twisted I did OK. It was getting them level that gave me a headache ! Anyway, I knew you would enjoy the rigging (!!!!!), I shall be glad to see the back of it for a while.
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I am sorry if some of these are on their sides, you will just have to lie down to enjoy them !!
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Hello folks', No I have not been idle all summer but very slowly progressing with the OcCre version of the Santisima Trinidad cross section. I didn't start a build log so none of you will have been able to follow my progress. Part of my reason for this is that there is already a wonderful build log on this kit on msw already and it seemed silly just to duplicate everything. It will not be a surprise to you that I am an OcCre kit fan and the quality of this kit was up to their usual standards. I can't complain about them, only my own mistakes and 'shortcuts'!!! although I have to say their instructions were not as good as other kits they make. The reason I wanted to build this one was to practice and try to improve my rigging skills which I feel I have. My shrouds and deadeyes especially were much better than I had done before and most of the rigging I am pleased with. I know for the keen eyed that I did make one bilateral mistake and belayed a couple of ropes to the wrong places. By the time I noticed it was already too late to undo so I will live with it. I think it is a strange thing to do in some ways - a cross section - and I wouldn't do another one because for all the effort involved it never was going to look complete in a way. I wouldn't even dream of doing the whole ship which OcCre also do as not only is it huge but I think I would lose patience with it quite fast. Anyway, I will post some pictures of my efforts for you all to see and love or hate as you wish. My next project is going to be my second stage coach which I know is not of interest on this site but, fear not, I shall be watching you !!! I am thinking of doing the RMS Titanic afterwards !!!!!!!! Watch this space !
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How to avoid twisted lanyards
Mike Dowling replied to Captain Al's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
If it is any help at all I found that waxing the lanyard thread helps and then just run the shrouds between finger and thumb before you start 'lacing' the ratlines and then keep the deadeye facing whichever way it choses. It worked for me. -
Yes, easy stages and you get there in the end !! I am still working on my Santisima Trinidad cross section. Not the most rewarding model I have done but it is helping me practice my rigging skills - or lack thereof !! Still haven't decided on my next creation but I am beginning to think the Victory is a bit too clever for me. I don't have all the wonderful tools you have collected to bail me out of problems. I don't know about you but if I get too many problems I stop enjoying it all and after all that is not the idea. I will never be a master scratchbuilder like Danny but enjoyment is the most important thing. I can still enjoy other peoples wonderful models as long as I enjoy what I am doing. Your ratlines by the way look terrific.
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Dan you have highlighted a problem I have been trying to work out with someone on another log. To put the shrouds through the lubber hole as you show (and as I did on my Bounty after your advice) it is impossible to get the far end deadeye attached first as it simply won't go through! It makes the seizing of it a nightmare! I would be interested to know the solution to this and hope that C.Al doesn't mind me pinching a bit of his log space. I am sure others would like to know the answer to this dilemma.
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Don't despair, you have and do help a great deal. Many thanks about the book, I will have a look for that.
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