Mike Dowling

I am confused half the time with some of the lingo as well.  There was a long time where I was interchanging bulwarks and bulkheads.  Even worse, I just realized I have been misspelling "bowsprit" the last five years    What I love about this hobby is not only the craftsmanship/building aspect, but also the learning aspect - history, technology, mechanics, etc.
 
Your Bounty is very nice!  I should probably take my own advice, but don't get overwhelmed by all you have to do - just break things up into small discrete tasks.  The decision on the sails is yours alone - do you want to build a model with sails?  If so, where there is a will there is a way   You'll have to spend some time researching - I probably spent two months of reading and planning things out.  But, I wasn't in a rush to finish the model as I got more out of the journey than the destination.   In the end, I think everyone wants a model they can be proud of, so if you like ships with sails, add sails!
 
I may be overstating, but standing rigging is fixed.  It includes all the various stays to keep the masts in place and the shrouds (which are probably a form of stay).  Running rigging is a working line - the lines enable one to raise and lower sails, move the spars, hoist or lower things, etc.
 
Do you have the Lennarth Petersson book "Rigging Period Ship Models"?  If you're like me and learn more from pictures than words, it is an invaluable resource to learn all the rigging that goes into a ship.  The book is entirely composed of pictures, and no words.  It is fantastic.

Mike, the Badger was my first ship.  If I can do it, you can do it
 
You don't need all the running rigging if you use furled sails.  I did the clew lines, buntlines and sheets.  The leech lines would be hidden I think, so I didn't bother with those.  There may be another set of lines that I also didn't add.  The clew lines, buntlines and sheets should be in your kit plans for the masts.  The bowsprit takes a little more work with the jib sails, as you need to add jib stays and halliards.  You also need chocks, a jib traveler, suitable belaying points.
 
Take a look here - this might help:
 
http://sailing-ships.oktett.net/square-rigging.html
 
 
Good resources are Lees "Masting and Rigging" and the TFFM volume 4.  I recently bought Marquardt's "Eighteenth Century" book which also looks pretty good.
 
Hope that helps.

Thanks so much for the link and the information. The time and trouble you have taken will I am sure help a great many modellers. I think for me it probably confirms that I am too new to all this to contemplate sails which whilst being a shame because as you say they are sailing ships will save a great deal of breakage!!!!

Sails are very hard to replicate in the smaller scales.  When using them and you are furling them cut them in half.  I have also use very fine rice paper as well.  Works nice but very delicate.
David B

Mike, if you're thinking about furled sails, I set up a separate thread/tutorial on what I did for my Badger.  Maybe this can be of some help:
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3944-landlubber-mikes-technique-for-furled-sails/
 
 
Sails are a personal decision.  There are the purists who leave them off because of scale.  For me, these are sailing ships and like someone said here once - a ship without sails is like a car without tires.  In any event, good luck with whatever you decide.  Adding sails added considerable time to my build, but I really enjoyed the process of going through and learning what all the lines, etc. were for.  It gave me a greater appreciation for these gorgeous ships.

Mike,
 
In my opinion, the time to add sails is never.  Unless they are furled, and/or your model is at least 1:48 or larger they are very difficult to make to scale and rig so they hang naturally.  I have done sails on a number of schooner models that are 1/4" scale only because the client always requires it but I use at least 800 thread count linen or better, 1200 TC if I can find it at a discount price.  I will probably try silk span on the next one.
 
If you feel you must include sails, the thinnest you can probably readily find is silkspan.  It comes in three grades, starting from the lightest,  00, 000, and SGM.  I believe all the new stuff is polyspan.   I also suggest you get a copy of David Antscherl's TFFM Volume 4 to get a great source of information on rigging.  If you want to go with silkspan Google K&S White Aero Silk Covering for information and sources.
Good luck
Allan

Mike,
 
I try to complete maximum rigging setup, including sails on the masts and spars before installation on the model.  My approach and pictures are included in the Topsail Schooner "Eagle" 1847 build log.  See the links below:
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/6774-topsail-schooner-eagle-1847-pete-jaquith-scratch/page-3
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/6774-topsail-schooner-eagle-1847-pete-jaquith-scratch/page-4
 
Regards,
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Many thanks Bindy for you kind words.
 
Shihawk, thank you very much for the info and taking the time for me. I think I now know more or less what I have to do. I haven't actually started on the masts etc yet, just trying to work out how to do it. The plans I have and the parts list are not the same, measurements and quantities vary considerably so I think I am going to have to work from the plans mostly, especially for measurements.
This is going to be a very long haul - do you ever get the feeling that you have bitten off more than you can chew?

So, that's the easy part done. Next the masts, spars, rigging etc etc.
 
Before I start here are some views from the mast before I start them!!
 

 

 

 

 

Hello all!
 
I have now finished the hull ! There are a few accessories like barrels etc to add but they will wait until I come to the end as I don't want them rattling about. A few bits to do on the launch as well but they also will wait.
 
Thought you would like a few pics. For the purists amongst you out there I have made a couple of minor modifications and I may give prizes for anyone that can find them!!!. The fact that it is not painted is not a modification but personal choice so no prizes for that.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Hello all!
 
I have now finished the hull ! There are a few accessories like barrels etc to add but they will wait until I come to the end as I don't want them rattling about. A few bits to do on the launch as well but they also will wait.
 
Thought you would like a few pics. For the purists amongst you out there I have made a couple of minor modifications and I may give prizes for anyone that can find them!!!. The fact that it is not painted is not a modification but personal choice so no prizes for that.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

Hello all!
 
I have now finished the hull ! There are a few accessories like barrels etc to add but they will wait until I come to the end as I don't want them rattling about. A few bits to do on the launch as well but they also will wait.
 
Thought you would like a few pics. For the purists amongst you out there I have made a couple of minor modifications and I may give prizes for anyone that can find them!!!. The fact that it is not painted is not a modification but personal choice so no prizes for that.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

I can't stand football and have been getting on with my boat!! Look forward to seeing your pics though.

Beautiful work Mike - now you're on to the fun part!
hamilton

wow Mike that's a huge leap forward from the last pics I saw!
 
Exquisite work!

So, that's the easy part done. Next the masts, spars, rigging etc etc.
 
Before I start here are some views from the mast before I start them!!
 

 

 

 

 

Hello all!
 
I have now finished the hull ! There are a few accessories like barrels etc to add but they will wait until I come to the end as I don't want them rattling about. A few bits to do on the launch as well but they also will wait.
 
Thought you would like a few pics. For the purists amongst you out there I have made a couple of minor modifications and I may give prizes for anyone that can find them!!!. The fact that it is not painted is not a modification but personal choice so no prizes for that.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

I,ll add my congratulations ,.great work  ,i don,t suppose the prize is a free weekend over the new year period ??? don,t like haggis though !!1

Let me be first to congratulate you.  Masterful job!!  I may not be eligible though for the modification prizes as I believe I may have some insider information.

Wow Mike,
 
That looks just fantastic!  Great job!  I really did like your planking (even after reading of your trials and tribulations) but the finished hull just looks so special!

Looking great Mike!
hamilton

Hi guys and gals! I'm back having completed my second deck!! A bit if a challenge owing to the 'bendy' character of wood but eventually all the bits fitted as required.
The dreaded planking gets ever closer and I am still trying to get my head round the procedure.
 
So far I understand 'fairing' the hull and don't have a problem with it. 'Lining off' is a different matter! Some people seem to advocate the use of temporary battens whilst others favour using string or similar. What I can't understand is that if you use battens without subjecting them to any lateral stress, they seem to me to sit differently from using string. The latter seems to be placing the string by eye for a pleasing curve rather than where the wood 'wants' to go. Help please!
 
Also, I assume when working out the number of planks that are needed I should measure the widest bulkhead which would be midships and divide that by the maximum width of the planking wood provided. Is that right?
 
I don't understand the purpose of a fan template. I can see that it would provide a regular taper but boats are not like that. It seems you would have to have one for the stem and one for the stern but the template starts at one point and expands theoretically to infinity so where do you start from. You see I am really struggling with the concept here!! More help please.
 
This becomes even more complicated with this particular kit and the 'nose' section of the boat is not fitted until after the first planking. It is eventually covered by the second planking.
 
The instructions advocate using as many straight pieces as possible and filling in the gaps afterwards with long wedge shaped pieces. Whilst I am sure this would do the job I am also sure that the good ship builders out there would throw up their hands in horror. What shall I do??
 
 
 

HELP!!! I thought that I was OK with my fairing but before I get in a right state can I please have some expert opinion on these photos. I think maybe I should remove quite a bit more wood to sharpen the back more and I wonder if I should take enough off the last bulkhead for it to meet the second deck. I have done my best to show you what I mean in the pics. 
 
Also for the pleasure of Cannon fodder there are a couple of pics of my bulwark that snapped. Now I have repaired it I think it will pass muster?
 

Wow, a few questions to answer there. Firstly, I did find your message after all CA, it must have been here all the time so I apologise for my senility!!
I haven't had a problem with the masts, they sit just right. Looking from the front they are straight except maybe for a wee bit of warp on the rear mast which does indeed slope very slightly backwards when viewing from the side. Can't say I notice much slope on the main though. The rear and mizzen (?) masts are indeed round pegs in square holes, the main required drilling the seating for if that makes sense.
My technique for the fairing was just a longish sanding block and sandpaper for the main hull and a smaller block for the bow and transom. I did use a small file a bit on the transom end formers. I didn't use a dremel as I find it a bit vicious though I might with the planking.  Once I had all the decks on the hull was quite rigid and stood up to my sanding abuse!! Bare in mind that the bow section on my kit is balsa blocks which are fitted and shaped after the first planking. I just hope my fairing so far is OK, time will tell.
It does occur to me CA that looking at you photos the two halves of your deck do not appear to be square. Is that me or because of your warping problems?
I can't believe that you drilled all those holes for imitation nails, I found it quite hard enough with a pencil.
For the deck planking I just put white glue on the ply only and then the planks. Unfortunately I have found that the veneer wood for the planks does vary quite a bit in width so you can't always rely on the sitting just right beside each other. Still, it all adds to challenge I guess!
 



 

Firstly, yes, I have to put holes in my beautifully repaired bulwarks as well!!
 
Secondly,
 
deep breath,
 
one plank!!!!!! (sorry strake)
 
Does this look right, I spent a while making sure there is no lateral bending.
So, what next?