ChrisLBren

The side counter timbers are being installed in the next picture, the wooden square you see was made to be exactly 12"3' wide and the same height as the toptimber height from the plan, this was then taped down to the build board exactly 5"3' back from the aft perpendicular as per TFFM.
I am hoping that doing it this way will ensure the these counter timbers are in the exact right place.
 
Ben

Hello friends,
 
construction end of the model.
Originally, the model was planed with a complete main mast
and complete rigging.
Massive objections and pressure through my admiralty and government
with regard to the enormous size of the display case required an
amendment to the plan.
 
Karl 
 
 
T e i l  59    /   Ende

Ah.. update sooner than I thought.  Got the anchor planking done on the starboard side.  I've ripped off the wales and redid them.  Have one small area I'm not thrilled with in the pearwood part.  But I think I can fix that with some more sanding.  I'll sort it out when I go to plank that area.   Next in line is to continue up the rail (cutline).  I won't be cutting her free though for quite a while as like the security of the jig. 
 

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

I've planked the starboard side gun port strip and on both sides added the ebony chain wale and the ebony bow area planking.  There's two areas that are unplanked in the chain wale where the channels will fit.  Things look wet because of the first coat of wipe-on poly.
 
Footnote.. I'm more than a bit chuffed as the chain wales (port and starboard) are within 2 scale inches of each other.
 
I'll now go around to the other side, and sand the ebony bow planking.  It's there but really rough before the next update.
 

Continuation.
 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relationship is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

If you're going to build 1/72nd go plank on bulkhead - full frame 1/48 or larger scale for best results (although I have heard you can go as small as 3/16). Personally I'm going to build full frame at 1/48 - as part of the deal for our new house - Ive got a big workshop !!!

If you're going to build 1/72nd go plank on bulkhead - full frame 1/48 or larger scale for best results (although I have heard you can go as small as 3/16). Personally I'm going to build full frame at 1/48 - as part of the deal for our new house - Ive got a big workshop !!!

If you're going to build 1/72nd go plank on bulkhead - full frame 1/48 or larger scale for best results (although I have heard you can go as small as 3/16). Personally I'm going to build full frame at 1/48 - as part of the deal for our new house - Ive got a big workshop !!!

The different options exist if you already own the original plans at 1/72nd that you purchased with the volumes.  So thats the cheapest option - just getting the supplemental ones that show drafted frames.  Or you can buy the entire set enlarged to 1/48 scale.  Hope this helps.
Chris

Hey Ben,
I think 150 is fine above the wales where you will plank - but I would sand at 320, then 400 and finish at 600 grit below the wales for optimum finish.  Sorry to be Mr Miyagi here from Karate Kid (LOL).  Its looking good !!!
Chris

Spectacular

Shipyard time has been tight and will remain that way for a while but I wanted to post a small update.  The manger is a triangular area at the bow formed by removable wood partitions.  A scupper drains the water that accumulates from hauling in the anchor cables.  It fits into a waterway to prevent the water from seeping under the manger wall onto the upper deck.  
 

 

 

 

 

Gaetan,
The sculptures look wonderful !  I'm also a huge fan of the look of using one wood exclusively for a build.  I had no idea you could realize sculptures of this quality with cherry - goes to show it all has to do with the skill of the artist.  
Chris

Impressive looking hull Ben !

Thank you very much Bill.
 
When I began that build, I decided to use 100% cherry wood for many reasons. One of these  to show that decent results can be achieve for the body  and for the sculptures too. To always buy exotic wood can be pretty much expensive. More differents colors can be use, but in this build, which is the first time I try to use only 1 kind of wood. In Canada and the US, it is easy to get  cherry wood. Also among the local woods this is probably the more stable wood we have.
 
Here are some results for the dolphins. Eyes are glued. Scales are still to be done.
2 sides  are correctly shape and the union of the 2 sides is done with a curve.
 
This is an interesting work requiring concentration, where you need to take your time to enjoy the work. To facilitate the work you must work within the capacity of the tool and do not try to overuse it. I like to finish  the parts with diamond bits, it works slowly but it is easier to control what you want to achieve.

another  dolphin  in the family, 2 more to go

And to show how the port lids fit when installed.
 

 
The blank lids without hinges were positioned first and while they were in....I glued the hinges in without there little pins.   It was easier to line up the hinges visually that way.  At least for me.
 
They are actually working hinges as you can see.  I am pleased with how well the laser board worked for this application.  That is one less element I need to rely on photoetch for in the future.
 

 
Chuck

a few more photos:

 

 

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 115 – Rudder, Miscellaneous
 
The first picture shows the last bit of work on the interior cabin deck detailing.
 

 
The curved seat/partition separates the cabin from the stern framing and leaves room for the rudder shaft.  All of this structural work aft of the partition will be hidden under poop decking.  As can be seen in a later picture, I decided to cover this rather austere seat with some upholstery.
 
With this in place the framing of the poop deck could be completed, including the fitting of the aft mooring bits and the boomkins shown in the next picture.
 

 
These are 12" x 12" timbers, tied together and into stout carlings that I reinforced with knees as shown.
 
The helm port was previously drilled through the framing but now had to be drilled through the bottom planking and sized for the 16" diameter rudder shaft.  After drilling a pilot hole, the center of the full hole could be set with a still wire through the gudgeons as shown below.
 

 
The hole was carefully enlarged with round files to fit the rudder.  The next picture shows the rudder hinges being fitted.
 

 
The gunstock shaped rudder rotates on the axis of the wire in the previous photo.  The top gudgeon has been added over the paint.  The hinges were fit one-at-a-time.  The masking tape is to keep the woodwork clean of metal dust.
 
The dry transfer stern lettering can be seen in this picture.  It is not yet finished.  The G, C and K need to be replaced and I am awaiting delivery of some more letters.  However, the picture below shows what it will look like.
 

 
I say what it "will" look like.  In the interest of full disclosure, I did a small amount of "photo shopping" on the three broken letters so I could use this picture.  Please excuse this.  The letters are quite small – 3/32" and 1/16".  When I get the replacement letters and successfully (hopefully) place them, the lettering will be sealed – probably with acrylic sanding sealer.  Right now they are easily scraped off.  I did a lot of that.
 
The next picture shows the fabrication of the iron rudder preventer in progress.
 

 
There are four parts – silver soldered.  It has rather long horns.  These have been rough shaped.  The strapping still has to be thinned down and drilled for bolts.
 
The blackened preventer can be seen below on the installed rudder.
 

 
The preventer was blackened with WinOx.  I have now disposed of all my remaining blue stuff in favor of this.
 
The rudder post in the next picture will be cut down later.
 

 
The mooring bits and boomkins are being shaped in this picture.  I found it easier to do this after installation – using rounded files.
 
The last picture shows the present state of the stern.
 

 
The poop deck is now ready for its two skylight coamings and decking.  Note that the portholes have been installed,   All of the work on the lower hull is now complete and it has been finished with wax.
 
Ed

The scupper and hawse hole linings ended up taking much more time than expected.  There are five regular scuppers and two larger ones for the manger and the pump effluent.  The scuppers are lined with lead sheeting.  I tried several approaches including aluminum foil formed over a dowel, self-adhesive aluminum and paper.  I ended up making the inner and outer openings with grey paper.  The paper and the scupper holes were painted with grey artist acrylic.  The shiny appearance of the frieze painting is from the lighting.
 

 

 

 

 
The hawse holes were lined with either lead or copper.  I did not want the shiny look of clean copper and so lined the holes with the same gray paper.  "Lips" for the lining pipes were added to hide the edge where the paper tube and the wood meet.
 

 
 

I began the  second dolphin. I received the last link to be able to process photo control  from camera to printer.To take a picture with an  DSLR camera,  you need to control 2 things : light and color.
How much light is entering in the camera is the white balance, a feature of the camera itself. To control the color, a photo of a calibrated Color Checker passport  is taken which is a color chart.
 
The monitor is calibrated taking into account the ambient light. On the picture the monitor can adjust at a lower height than what his original base would allow. Even if Apple do not want anymore that we remove the base, I did not like the height, so I cut the base and replaced with a better one.
 
The program Adobe Lightroom, corrects the picture and apply  printing adjustments.
 
The printer, the last component of the chain, also needs calibration. The paper also  have a  specific profile depending his features. Color Munki Photo is a  spectrophotometer use for the calibration of the monitor and the printer. It also can be use as a light meter to measure ambient light in Lux.
 
To verify  the calibration, a print is compared with the monitor and they should look like similar.

I guess it's about time I did something....
 
Gunport stripe (for lack of a better nomenclature) has been sanded, re-sanded, ports cut, re-sanded some more, gaps filled and sanded again...  I've applied one coat of wipe on poly to the stripe and to the counter to protect it.
 
Anyway... onward to the port side.
 
Once the port side is finished, I'll add the ebony chain wales and the French version of the billboard which runs from the stem, past the first port to the start of the second port.
 


 
As always, feel free to enlarge the photos by clicking on them.  Any advice, etc. is always appreciated.

más

Thank you Chris, and I look forward to see your next build, a french 74.
Cherry I bought in a lot, there was up to 12 inches wide,  and the color was deep.
For the pictures; cherry + 1 coat of tung oil. As you can observe on the picture, the color look natural because tung oil is I believe the a quite pure oil contrary to what could be linen seed oil. Also another very important advantage of tung oil, when you take pictures , often you can see reflexions on the wood surfaces especially with shellac, but this does not happen with tung oil. Also I went deep with the pictures, making it looking the wood darker.