usedtosail

So I had some time to add more belaying pins to the fore mast pin rail.
 

 
I also added more to the main pin rail, just in case I need them there too. Thanks again Mowzer.

So I had some time to add more belaying pins to the fore mast pin rail.
 

 
I also added more to the main pin rail, just in case I need them there too. Thanks again Mowzer.

I wanted to add the gun tackles to the fore gun but couldn't figure out where the other end attached to until I saw @brunnels great build log for his Beagle, so I made up two tackles with 1/8" blocks with hooks and hooked them to the ring bolts. I am using Syren blocks (and cleats) for this model instead of the one size blocks and metal cleats supplied. I also glued the pin rail and pawls to the deck using two pins under the uprights.
 

 
I finally finished the windlass and got that installed. The plans for the two handles are way off so I basically had to remake them. In the process the blackening was coming off so I painted them flat black. I first glued the handles into the ends of the barrel and slid the end blocks onto the other end of the handles, then glued the windlass supports to the deck and the end blocks to the bulwarks. I put a dowel in the fore mast hole to make sure the mast wasn't hitting anything on the deck, since everything is very close around the mast.
 

 
This completes page I of the instructions so it is on to page J. I first cleaned the flash off all the white metal parts for this stage, cleaned them in acetone, primed them with Binn primer, and painted them with flat black enamel.
 

 
I also cleaned the char off the wooden gun carriage parts. Instead of using brass rod for the axels, I made some wooden axels from 1/16" basswood strip. After cutting them to length I files the ends round and pushed the wheels on to finish the shaping. I had to file 1/16" notches into the bottoms of the carriage sides, and once the carriage sides and bottom are glued together, I will need to continue the 1/16" groove across the carriage bottoms to fit the axels.
 

 
I plan to paint the carriages with bulwarks red paint when they are all glued together.

Quick update on my typically slow progress. I finished all the stanchions along with handrails. I put these together as individual assemblies that I intended to then just drop into the holes. Unfortunately, a couple of the holes were a little tight, which was easy enough to enlarge a little. The big problem was the lower stanchions. The holes I made in the solid hull were the same size as the hatches, and of course the walls were straight up and down. This was fine for the ladders, as I angled them such that the ends were even with the hatch. However, because of the angle the stanchions are at, they extended beyond that. Since these are not really visible at all, I could simply bend them forward enough to fit and tighten up the handrail from the top. If I had it to do over again, I would have just made the holes bigger. Since the holes get covered up by the deck and the holes cut in the deck can be made the same size as the hatch, the larger hole underneath would allow more room. here's how everything turned out:

 
Main hatch

 
Aft hatches

 
It was alot of work for a tiny bit of detail, but I'm pretty happy with it

Another small update on my progress.  Working now on the waterways and planksheer.
 
The waterways and planksheer that I will be placing now will be on the spar deck, but it looks like I will also be doing some version of this on the gun deck once I get to that level.  The spar deck waterways will provide some “solidarity” to the bulwark extensions, though, when I get to the point coming up where I take out the existing spar deck framework in order to work on a detailed gun deck.
 
In beginning to work on the spar deck waterways, I followed the instructions as shown on Sheet 2 of the kit plans, but I also relied on suggestions made by Bob Hunt in his Practicum, as well as looking back at how a couple of my fellow shipbuilders handled this step, especially Tom @usedtosail and Jon @JSGerson.
 
For the waterways, I used the kit-supplied 5/16” x 5/32” strips.  Lengths were measured and cut from the stern to Bulkhead E.  The plans show various degrees of beveling that is required on the outer side of the waterways so that it fits snuggly against each of the bulkhead extensions, depending on which bulkhead the waterway is hitting.  The inner side of the waterway has a 45o cut measured 3/32” on each side.  I used a compass to measure and mark that distance, then used the Proxxon disc sander to get the 45o bevel correctly.  I simply used a palm sander to make the necessary bevels for the outer measurements.
 
   
 
   
 

 
Then secured and glued the long waterway strips on both port and starboard sides from the stern to Bulkhead E.  I used some temporary small square-dowel pieces on the outside of the bulkhead extensions in order to squeeze the waterway strips firmly against the bulkhead extensions without the risk of breaking those extensions.
 
       
 
To make the waterways that have the serious bend around the inside of the bow (from Bulkhead E to the bowsprit in front of Bulkhead A), I decided to cut them from basswood sheet stock, like several others had done.  I have a decent supply of 8” x 8” x 3/16” basswood sheets, so I’ll use that.  I measured the distance from the center keel out to the inside of the bulwark extensions at each of the Bulwarks A-E.  Then, using a French Curve, I tried to draw that curve onto a cardboard sheet.
 
        
 
It came out pretty well, although I still needed to make some adjustments at the bowsprit for it to fit a bit more “snuggly” against the bow knighthead.
 

 
I then transferred the cardboard shape to the basswood sheet and, using my Dewalt scroll saw, made the outer side cut for the waterway.
 
   
 
Since this basswood sheet was 3/16” thick but the waterway needed to only be 5/32” thick, I had to sand the sheet down another 1/32”.  This was going to be easier to do with a larger sheet piece then after cutting it to its desired width.
 

 
Using the compass, I then measured and marked the 5/16” width thickness and made the cut again using the scroll saw.
 
       
 
I then, of course, repeated this whole “measure-and-cut” process for the starboard side. 
 
And, once again, I used some temporary small square-dowel pieces on the outside of the bulkhead extensions in order to secure and glue the waterway strips from Bulkhead E forward firmly against the bulkhead extensions without the risk of breaking the extensions, timberheads and knightheads.
 

 
Once the waterways were in place, the planksheers set on top of the waterways against the bulkhead extensions.  These came from the kit-supplied 3/32” squared strips.  One strip was placed from the stern to Bulkhead G, and another strip was joined at Bulkhead G moving forward.  To make the curve around the inside of the bow, I simply held the two sides’ strips under really hot running water for several minutes, which got them soft and pliable enough to make the bend.  I clipped them against the bulkheads to allow them to dry and hold their curves before securing and gluing them in place.
 

 
Here is a final picture with all of the waterways and planksheers in place.  Hope I’ve done everything correctly!  This will all be done again on the gun deck!
 

 
I am now getting closer and closer to the serious kit bashing, when all of the spar deck level support beams will be cut out so that the detailed gun deck can be built.  We will then get into working on all the gun port placements, as well.  Scary times, indeed!  Definitely nervous about the whole process, but there is plenty of history from successful builders to look back on, as well as current knowledgeable followers who can help guide and counsel me, if necessary.
 
As always, your likes, comments, concerns and criticisms are all appreciated.  Y’all rock! Thanks!

Would you believe there are 100 hooks in this container? Once I got into the rhythm of bending the 1/32” eyebolts, I could do about 2, to 3 per minute, but it was tedious and working using the pliers, wire cutter, with a magnifier headset was tiresome. Now comes the really tiresome part, making 5 identical sets of tackle per each of the 20 carronades and 2 long guns. Oh joy.

This brings Surprise almost up to date as I've begun to plank the hull.
 
All deck beams are cut from 4mm pear except for two in 3mm pear. All beams have laser char removed from the upper surface which is then masked before the rest of the timber is sprayed in white paint. I used Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. The beam knees are also sprayed in the same colour. The knees are specific to individual locations too.







 
Mast and capstan locations are bolstered with reinforcement parts.

 
 
And here is what Surprise looks like at this stage. Hope you like her.

I posted some pictures of my shipyard a year or so ago, but over the weekend I make some changes.  The two work surfaces used to be opposite of each other with the took box in between.  I decided to create an L shaped work surface to take better advantage of the light from the window.  
 

 

 

 
I still have my comfortable chair for watching the Premier League on Saturday and Sunday mornings.   
 

 

This is my basement hideout.  The first two are of the cubicle where I do most of the modoeling. I  carved this out of the big workshop when I gave up making furniture.   The second two show the rump big workshop,  now minus some of the big tools,  but the tablesaw still gets plenty of use, as does the bench.  Plus, I have my collection of Byrnes machines out there.
 
Many happy hours spent down there.   And more to come as I approach full retirement!
 
Bob

I was lucky when we moved up to New Hampshire that the condo unit we bought had a rental unit that we are not renting out anymore. My wife said I should use the kitchen and living room for my shop which I jumped at the suggestion.
 
My main work bench (with a lovely view)
 

 
The rest...
 

 

 

So I had some time to add more belaying pins to the fore mast pin rail.
 

 
I also added more to the main pin rail, just in case I need them there too. Thanks again Mowzer.

Tom, you're doing great work on your Beagle. I have bookmarked your build log. Beagle has been in my "I wanna build it someday" category for some time now, but probably a year or two away at best.  I'm just finishing OcCre's Endurance, and as I did with that build, I would want to kit bash a Beagle build enough that it doesn't look like, and is more accurate than, a typical OcCre kit. My next build is Vanguard's Grecian Baltimore clipper, and I may try to talk Chris into putting out a Vanguard kit for Beagle. I might even offer to buy your AOS book when you're finished, but to be honest, if I got a similar request I'd probably be inclined to say "I'm not interested in selling." 
In any event, I hope you enjoy your Beagle as much as I have enjoyed my Endurance.
 

I was lucky when we moved up to New Hampshire that the condo unit we bought had a rental unit that we are not renting out anymore. My wife said I should use the kitchen and living room for my shop which I jumped at the suggestion.
 
My main work bench (with a lovely view)
 

 
The rest...
 

 

 

So I had some time to add more belaying pins to the fore mast pin rail.
 

 
I also added more to the main pin rail, just in case I need them there too. Thanks again Mowzer.

I was lucky when we moved up to New Hampshire that the condo unit we bought had a rental unit that we are not renting out anymore. My wife said I should use the kitchen and living room for my shop which I jumped at the suggestion.
 
My main work bench (with a lovely view)
 

 
The rest...
 

 

 

I was just looking at my Beagle, and with the boat mounted on the deck you can barely see the windlass.  Your work looks so good you may want to consider not mounting the boat so you can see the other features better.  

In my defence, I think this next photo puts the pinrail more into context (ie it can't really be seen).  I still wish I'd been able to belay all my ropes properly though. I'll keep avidly following your build log here, so I can see how it should have been done. Still more work to do on mine, however. 
 
 

You've made a beautiful job of that pinrail, you'll be glad of all those pins later on.  To be fair, when the rest of the deck parts and rigging are in place- it's quite hard to see that rail.  However, with only the recommended 6 belaying pins, my Beagle's "Captain's Choice" ended up being fixing the ropes wherever he could find a fixing, and maybe just glueing some excess ropes onto the belaying pins. 
I took a photo which was intended to show that you can't really see that pinrail once you've added the mast and sails, but, in fact, a bit of macro photography with a flash clearly shows my Captain's Bodge Choice of CA glue- along with the remaining fuzz on the Occre ropes (which beeswax didn't fully resolve) and an unexpected number of cat hairs on board too. 

Your workmanship is fantastic.  I really like the way your windlass turned out.   

So I had some time to add more belaying pins to the fore mast pin rail.
 

 
I also added more to the main pin rail, just in case I need them there too. Thanks again Mowzer.

I wanted to add the gun tackles to the fore gun but couldn't figure out where the other end attached to until I saw @brunnels great build log for his Beagle, so I made up two tackles with 1/8" blocks with hooks and hooked them to the ring bolts. I am using Syren blocks (and cleats) for this model instead of the one size blocks and metal cleats supplied. I also glued the pin rail and pawls to the deck using two pins under the uprights.
 

 
I finally finished the windlass and got that installed. The plans for the two handles are way off so I basically had to remake them. In the process the blackening was coming off so I painted them flat black. I first glued the handles into the ends of the barrel and slid the end blocks onto the other end of the handles, then glued the windlass supports to the deck and the end blocks to the bulwarks. I put a dowel in the fore mast hole to make sure the mast wasn't hitting anything on the deck, since everything is very close around the mast.
 

 
This completes page I of the instructions so it is on to page J. I first cleaned the flash off all the white metal parts for this stage, cleaned them in acetone, primed them with Binn primer, and painted them with flat black enamel.
 

 
I also cleaned the char off the wooden gun carriage parts. Instead of using brass rod for the axels, I made some wooden axels from 1/16" basswood strip. After cutting them to length I files the ends round and pushed the wheels on to finish the shaping. I had to file 1/16" notches into the bottoms of the carriage sides, and once the carriage sides and bottom are glued together, I will need to continue the 1/16" groove across the carriage bottoms to fit the axels.
 

 
I plan to paint the carriages with bulwarks red paint when they are all glued together.

So I had some time to add more belaying pins to the fore mast pin rail.
 

 
I also added more to the main pin rail, just in case I need them there too. Thanks again Mowzer.

So I had some time to add more belaying pins to the fore mast pin rail.
 

 
I also added more to the main pin rail, just in case I need them there too. Thanks again Mowzer.

So I had some time to add more belaying pins to the fore mast pin rail.
 

 
I also added more to the main pin rail, just in case I need them there too. Thanks again Mowzer.

Can I offer a suggestion to head off a future problem with occre’s plans? You’ve made a beautiful pinrail near the mast to hold the six belaying pins as per the plans. However, later on, occre will want you to put fourteen (!!!) rigging ropes on those six pins… but your upgraded rail has room for more pins….