popeye2sea

The first picture looks like part of the windlass.  Not sure what the hole in the second picture is.

Do you have a picture or a description of the item that we can go by?

White stuff was made from whale or fish oil, pine pitch, and sulfer so I'm sure the color would vary depending on the mixture.

John,

Not wishing to hijack your build log again, I will post some pics of 4th of July in a separate thread.  Come see it there.

Roger,

The Burton Pendant is rigged first. (the thimble on the end will take a tackle for hoisting heavier objects from the deck).  The pendants (port and starboard are joined together with a cont splice sized to fit the masthead(forms an eye in the middle of a rope). The cont splice is dropped over the masthead so that the pendants hang down beside the mast.

Next the shrouds go on in pairs.  A length of rope is doubled and an eye is seized in the bight (loop) to fit the masthead. The first pair is set up on the starboard side, then the forward pair on the port side.  Continue for the required number of shrouds.  The final odd number shrouds for the port and starboard side are set up like the burton pendant with a cont splice.

The upper deadeyes get turned in on the lower end of each shroud.  When set up all the deadeyes should be in a horizontal line.  This is what the jig is for.

First set up the lower deadeyes to the channels.  Make sure that the middle hole of the deadeye is down (lower than the other two).  Using the jig to give the proper spacing turn the upper deadeye  in on the end of the shroud.  The shroud will pass around the deadeye and get seized to itself.  Make sure that the middle hole of the upper deadeye is up.  Reeve the deadeye lanyard  through the upper and lower deadeyes.  The lanyard always starts on the upper deadeye with a stopper knot on the inboard side. It will start at the aft upper hole on the port deadeyes and the forward upper hole on the starboard. 

The end of the lanyard will go from the lower deadeye up to the shroud where it will be hitched around the shroud with a cow hitch and the end brought back down and seized to itself.

Src,

The only spacing guidance that I am aware of for shrouds is that the are spaced so that their associated chains do not pass in front of any gunports.

John,  look me up when you get into town.  I'll make sure you get the full tour.

Giving a tour to some of our privateer friends from Rhode Island

Me giving a tour last year....

 Oh, and no ship that's not crewed by the damned and captained by a man so evil that Hell itself spat him back out could possibly have black sails, therefore couldn't possibly be any other ship than the Black Pearl. Is that what you're telling me?       

Can I get an Amen and a Hallelujah!      

If you consider that the sewn lines are the seams of the sail cloths used to construct the sail, then the emblem would have been an additional piece sewn over  the cloths.  Hence the seams would be hidden by the emblem.

Dan,

Does Lee suggest that one of the parrel rope methods is older than the other.  I would think that the one that brings the end of the parrel strop to the deck to be the later of the two.

Looks like the bottom of a fish tank.

Chuck,

I received mine and they look great.  Now I have to start making strops and hooks to go with them .  I'm waiting on Alexey's serving machine so that I can begin the strops.  96  2mm blocks and strops and 48 hooks to rig 12 cannons     

Thanks folks,

This being my first build I really do not know what to expect.  I keep thinking that I have to allow for tension.

I guess that is another reason that I am glad I found this site.  The advice I get is priceless.

What metal are people making their hooks from?  I am worried that at the small gauges that I am looking to use they will simply bend open when I put a strain on them.

I have been told that the Loring model of the Constitution is a mix of different iterations(?) of the ship.  And it is not a very good model to use as a reference piece.  

There is a flexible rammer made of rope that would allow the powder and shot to be rammed down the barrel without the end (or the sailor) being stuck out of the gun port.

Thank you Spiff and Wefalk.  Your comments explain a lot.  I'll prime with white from now on.

Thanks Russ

What was the size of a typical breeching rope?  I have 8, 18, and 24 pdrs on my Soleil Royal.  I am assuming I can use the same size for the 18's and 24's.  And I will scale down accordingly for the 8pdr.

R.C. Anderson gives a rule of thumb in his Rigging of Ships in the Age of the Spritsail Topmast as follows:

Diameter of the Main Stay = 1/6 the diameter of the mast

Fore stay = 4/5 of the Main Stay

Mizzen Stay = 1/2 of the Fore Stay

Stay collars = 3/4 of the stay

Shroud and stay laniards = 1/2 of the stay or shroud, except main stay is 1/3

Shrouds are 1/2 of their respective stays, i.e. topmast shrouds are 1/2 of the topmast stay

Mast tackle pendants, backstays = 1/2 of the shrouds

Tackle runners are 2/3 of their pendant

Tackle falls are 1/2 of their runner or pendant

Ties = shrouds

Halyards = 2/3 of the Tie

Lift and Brace pendants = 1/2 of the shroud

Lifts = 3/8 of the shroud

Braces = 3/4 of the Brace pendant

Tacks = 1/2 of the shrouds

Sheets = 3/4 of the shroud

Clews = 1/2 of the sheet

Bowline = 1/2 of the shroud

Leechlines and Buntlines = 1/3 of the shroud

Blocks sheaves are 9 times the diameter of the line, blocks are 12 times the diameter of the line.

Hope it helps

Lambsbk,

There are two hawse pipes on the gun deck and corresponding ones on the berth deck that allow the cable to pass down to the orlop.  I will take pictures of them on Tuesday when I am aboard next.

The difficulties in handling this yard was probably the reason it was replaced by a simpler gaff and boom rig.

I believe that the same method would be used to hoist cannon aboard.