Blue Ensign

Cheers Guys, nearly there now.
 
Post 51
 
Crewing the Boat
 
I like to include a figure or two on a model purely for scale reference purposes. In the case of a Zulu the entire crew can be represented as it comprised no more than six including a boy.
 
 
I prefer to display them as silhouette figures by either painting or chemically blackening depending on the medium.
 
This also neatly avoids testing my very limited figure painting skills.
 

9494(2)
For the crew I am using Modellu figures in S scale (1:64) and they are an excellent fit to the model and very finely detailed.

9501(2)
Modellu don’t do specific Fishing boat crew figures, but their industrial, farming, and gardening figures provide reasonably suitable candidates.
 
Deck accessories
 
Edgar March gives useful details of these additions.
 
 
Six oars 26’ long with a blade of 12’ x 5”
 
They are more like sweeps than oars and were used to row the boat out of the harbour and very hard work it must have been. Sockets to take the thole pins were fitted between the stringer and rail.
 
At scale these work out at:
o/a length 124mm with a blade 57mm x 2mm.
 
The oars at this scale are quite delicate. The shafts are made from 1.5mm Boxwood square stock and the blades from 2.4mm x 0.7mm Boxwood strip.
 

9520(2)
When I made a prototype to these dimensions, I was struck by the seemingly long length of the blade which looked out of proportion to the overall length, but as best as I can gauge from photo’s, Gordon Williams reproduced them to the same proportions.
 

9543(2)
There was quite an attrition rate in making the oars, ten started to produce six.
 
 
 
Two Push sticks or wands 36’ x 2¾” ø
 
These were used like punt poles for manoeuvring and fending off.
 

9541(2)
At scale: 171mm x 1mm ø
 
One Boathook 14’ x 2” ø

9544(2)
At scale;
67mm x 0.80mm
 
 
Spar for squaring jib when running 36’ x 6” ø
 

9525(2)
I’m not quite sure how this was used, but it does present another large impediment on the deck.
At scale: 171mm x 2.5mm
 
 
This is a lot of stuff to be lying on the deck; how was it positioned to not interfere with handling the boat or when fishing; how was it secured to stop it sliding about or going overboard in rough weather?
 
 
It was all certainly there as many old b/w photo’s, including the one below testify, The crew must have been pretty nimble of foot to handle the boat in a lively sea whilst negotiating all this deck hamper.
 

9527
Zulu British Ensign leaving port.
 
One of the crew members can be seen using the Wand at the stern and one of the oars is also in use. The large amount of clutter on the deck is clearly evident.
 
 
Still these items do add to the interest on the model and give some idea of the conditions in which these boats were worked.
 
 
The next post will see the model finished with the completion photo’s.
 
 
 
 
B.E.
27/12/20

Post 52


 
Muirneag completed


 
Building this model has been a four-month journey of interest and pleasure and in a way I am sad to see it end.


 
Firstly the detail shots.


 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 
The final set of photos which together with the detail shots I hope may be of benefit to those following on with this kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fifie and Zulu



Zulu and Fifie

 
My thanks to Chris Watton for providing the makings for my conversion, but even with an out of box build there is a fine model to be had, and it is a good choice for those starting out in our hobby.


 
With three Vanguard models built in continuous succession I am now taking a short break before I take on another project.


 
I have a bathroom remodelling starting early in the New Year.


 
So, thank you to those who have supported my build, in the meantime I will be compiling my usual photo book of the Fifie and Zulu builds.

 

 
Stay safe and wishing you all a better 2021


 
B.E.

28/12/2020

 
 
 
 

Post 52


 
Muirneag completed


 
Building this model has been a four-month journey of interest and pleasure and in a way I am sad to see it end.


 
Firstly the detail shots.


 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 
The final set of photos which together with the detail shots I hope may be of benefit to those following on with this kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fifie and Zulu



Zulu and Fifie

 
My thanks to Chris Watton for providing the makings for my conversion, but even with an out of box build there is a fine model to be had, and it is a good choice for those starting out in our hobby.


 
With three Vanguard models built in continuous succession I am now taking a short break before I take on another project.


 
I have a bathroom remodelling starting early in the New Year.


 
So, thank you to those who have supported my build, in the meantime I will be compiling my usual photo book of the Fifie and Zulu builds.

 

 
Stay safe and wishing you all a better 2021


 
B.E.

28/12/2020

 
 
 
 

Cheers Guys, nearly there now.
 
Post 51
 
Crewing the Boat
 
I like to include a figure or two on a model purely for scale reference purposes. In the case of a Zulu the entire crew can be represented as it comprised no more than six including a boy.
 
 
I prefer to display them as silhouette figures by either painting or chemically blackening depending on the medium.
 
This also neatly avoids testing my very limited figure painting skills.
 

9494(2)
For the crew I am using Modellu figures in S scale (1:64) and they are an excellent fit to the model and very finely detailed.

9501(2)
Modellu don’t do specific Fishing boat crew figures, but their industrial, farming, and gardening figures provide reasonably suitable candidates.
 
Deck accessories
 
Edgar March gives useful details of these additions.
 
 
Six oars 26’ long with a blade of 12’ x 5”
 
They are more like sweeps than oars and were used to row the boat out of the harbour and very hard work it must have been. Sockets to take the thole pins were fitted between the stringer and rail.
 
At scale these work out at:
o/a length 124mm with a blade 57mm x 2mm.
 
The oars at this scale are quite delicate. The shafts are made from 1.5mm Boxwood square stock and the blades from 2.4mm x 0.7mm Boxwood strip.
 

9520(2)
When I made a prototype to these dimensions, I was struck by the seemingly long length of the blade which looked out of proportion to the overall length, but as best as I can gauge from photo’s, Gordon Williams reproduced them to the same proportions.
 

9543(2)
There was quite an attrition rate in making the oars, ten started to produce six.
 
 
 
Two Push sticks or wands 36’ x 2¾” ø
 
These were used like punt poles for manoeuvring and fending off.
 

9541(2)
At scale: 171mm x 1mm ø
 
One Boathook 14’ x 2” ø

9544(2)
At scale;
67mm x 0.80mm
 
 
Spar for squaring jib when running 36’ x 6” ø
 

9525(2)
I’m not quite sure how this was used, but it does present another large impediment on the deck.
At scale: 171mm x 2.5mm
 
 
This is a lot of stuff to be lying on the deck; how was it positioned to not interfere with handling the boat or when fishing; how was it secured to stop it sliding about or going overboard in rough weather?
 
 
It was all certainly there as many old b/w photo’s, including the one below testify, The crew must have been pretty nimble of foot to handle the boat in a lively sea whilst negotiating all this deck hamper.
 

9527
Zulu British Ensign leaving port.
 
One of the crew members can be seen using the Wand at the stern and one of the oars is also in use. The large amount of clutter on the deck is clearly evident.
 
 
Still these items do add to the interest on the model and give some idea of the conditions in which these boats were worked.
 
 
The next post will see the model finished with the completion photo’s.
 
 
 
 
B.E.
27/12/20

Post 52


 
Muirneag completed


 
Building this model has been a four-month journey of interest and pleasure and in a way I am sad to see it end.


 
Firstly the detail shots.


 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 
The final set of photos which together with the detail shots I hope may be of benefit to those following on with this kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fifie and Zulu



Zulu and Fifie

 
My thanks to Chris Watton for providing the makings for my conversion, but even with an out of box build there is a fine model to be had, and it is a good choice for those starting out in our hobby.


 
With three Vanguard models built in continuous succession I am now taking a short break before I take on another project.


 
I have a bathroom remodelling starting early in the New Year.


 
So, thank you to those who have supported my build, in the meantime I will be compiling my usual photo book of the Fifie and Zulu builds.

 

 
Stay safe and wishing you all a better 2021


 
B.E.

28/12/2020

 
 
 
 

Post 52


 
Muirneag completed


 
Building this model has been a four-month journey of interest and pleasure and in a way I am sad to see it end.


 
Firstly the detail shots.


 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 
The final set of photos which together with the detail shots I hope may be of benefit to those following on with this kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fifie and Zulu



Zulu and Fifie

 
My thanks to Chris Watton for providing the makings for my conversion, but even with an out of box build there is a fine model to be had, and it is a good choice for those starting out in our hobby.


 
With three Vanguard models built in continuous succession I am now taking a short break before I take on another project.


 
I have a bathroom remodelling starting early in the New Year.


 
So, thank you to those who have supported my build, in the meantime I will be compiling my usual photo book of the Fifie and Zulu builds.

 

 
Stay safe and wishing you all a better 2021


 
B.E.

28/12/2020

 
 
 
 

Cheers Guys, nearly there now.
 
Post 51
 
Crewing the Boat
 
I like to include a figure or two on a model purely for scale reference purposes. In the case of a Zulu the entire crew can be represented as it comprised no more than six including a boy.
 
 
I prefer to display them as silhouette figures by either painting or chemically blackening depending on the medium.
 
This also neatly avoids testing my very limited figure painting skills.
 

9494(2)
For the crew I am using Modellu figures in S scale (1:64) and they are an excellent fit to the model and very finely detailed.

9501(2)
Modellu don’t do specific Fishing boat crew figures, but their industrial, farming, and gardening figures provide reasonably suitable candidates.
 
Deck accessories
 
Edgar March gives useful details of these additions.
 
 
Six oars 26’ long with a blade of 12’ x 5”
 
They are more like sweeps than oars and were used to row the boat out of the harbour and very hard work it must have been. Sockets to take the thole pins were fitted between the stringer and rail.
 
At scale these work out at:
o/a length 124mm with a blade 57mm x 2mm.
 
The oars at this scale are quite delicate. The shafts are made from 1.5mm Boxwood square stock and the blades from 2.4mm x 0.7mm Boxwood strip.
 

9520(2)
When I made a prototype to these dimensions, I was struck by the seemingly long length of the blade which looked out of proportion to the overall length, but as best as I can gauge from photo’s, Gordon Williams reproduced them to the same proportions.
 

9543(2)
There was quite an attrition rate in making the oars, ten started to produce six.
 
 
 
Two Push sticks or wands 36’ x 2¾” ø
 
These were used like punt poles for manoeuvring and fending off.
 

9541(2)
At scale: 171mm x 1mm ø
 
One Boathook 14’ x 2” ø

9544(2)
At scale;
67mm x 0.80mm
 
 
Spar for squaring jib when running 36’ x 6” ø
 

9525(2)
I’m not quite sure how this was used, but it does present another large impediment on the deck.
At scale: 171mm x 2.5mm
 
 
This is a lot of stuff to be lying on the deck; how was it positioned to not interfere with handling the boat or when fishing; how was it secured to stop it sliding about or going overboard in rough weather?
 
 
It was all certainly there as many old b/w photo’s, including the one below testify, The crew must have been pretty nimble of foot to handle the boat in a lively sea whilst negotiating all this deck hamper.
 

9527
Zulu British Ensign leaving port.
 
One of the crew members can be seen using the Wand at the stern and one of the oars is also in use. The large amount of clutter on the deck is clearly evident.
 
 
Still these items do add to the interest on the model and give some idea of the conditions in which these boats were worked.
 
 
The next post will see the model finished with the completion photo’s.
 
 
 
 
B.E.
27/12/20

Post 52


 
Muirneag completed


 
Building this model has been a four-month journey of interest and pleasure and in a way I am sad to see it end.


 
Firstly the detail shots.


 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 
The final set of photos which together with the detail shots I hope may be of benefit to those following on with this kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fifie and Zulu



Zulu and Fifie

 
My thanks to Chris Watton for providing the makings for my conversion, but even with an out of box build there is a fine model to be had, and it is a good choice for those starting out in our hobby.


 
With three Vanguard models built in continuous succession I am now taking a short break before I take on another project.


 
I have a bathroom remodelling starting early in the New Year.


 
So, thank you to those who have supported my build, in the meantime I will be compiling my usual photo book of the Fifie and Zulu builds.

 

 
Stay safe and wishing you all a better 2021


 
B.E.

28/12/2020

 
 
 
 

Post 52


 
Muirneag completed


 
Building this model has been a four-month journey of interest and pleasure and in a way I am sad to see it end.


 
Firstly the detail shots.


 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 
The final set of photos which together with the detail shots I hope may be of benefit to those following on with this kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fifie and Zulu



Zulu and Fifie

 
My thanks to Chris Watton for providing the makings for my conversion, but even with an out of box build there is a fine model to be had, and it is a good choice for those starting out in our hobby.


 
With three Vanguard models built in continuous succession I am now taking a short break before I take on another project.


 
I have a bathroom remodelling starting early in the New Year.


 
So, thank you to those who have supported my build, in the meantime I will be compiling my usual photo book of the Fifie and Zulu builds.

 

 
Stay safe and wishing you all a better 2021


 
B.E.

28/12/2020

 
 
 
 

Coamings and Gratings
The kit blurb suggests using 3x2mm walnut strip to make the coamings, but this does not allow for the curve in the head ledges which should be similar to the deck camber.
I therefore used 5x2mm stuff to make the head ledges to allow for the round up.
To begin, a template of the hatch sizes was made around which the coamings will be constructed. I used the ply cut outs from the deck for this purpose.

For those who may not have considered it, there is an orientation in respect of gratings. The athwartships timbers are deeper than the longitudinal timbers which run in notches cut into the former.
When viewed along the deck of the ship the longitudinal timbers should appear unbroken. A small point and one that will be noticed by very few, well perhaps only me, but if gratings are being made up from strip, they may as well be fitted to reflect the correct method.

It is suggested that the coamings are mitred at the corners in the same manner as a picture frame; this makes for a neat arrangement but was not the case in reality, the head ledges were half tenoned into the coamings the end of which are apparent from the fore aft view.
The corners of the coamings were rounded above deck, an early nod to Health and Safety perhaps.

Once the gratings are made up they can be fitted into the frame and sanded to the rounded profile.

Fore Hatch /ladderway, this will most likely be left open.

 

Here the Capstan step has also been fitted (not part of the kit) with the pawls set in place.

The run of hatches along the deck, yet to be fixed after a little more fettlin';
I haven’t quite decided at this stage how to finish the coamings, varnished or painted red ochre or black, but there’s time to decide yet...
I have also been working on the Capstans and pumps which will be the subject of the next update.
 
B.E.

Cheers Guys,
These are the completion photo's, before Pegasus  is enclosed in her case, which is still wip.
firstly the detail shots:













 
The Rigging shots

 





 
With the Longboat, which will be placed within the case, but not on the temporary stand as shown below.



 
Overall shots





 
B.E.
 

Post 45
A few more bits and pieces.
 
Scuppers
These are given as four in number each side with a diameter of 2½” (0.99mm at scale)

3881(2)
They are made from thin slices of aluminium tubing flattened on the anvil.
 
Iron plates for Backstays
As with the Chainplates I fashioned these from some brass strip.
 

3904(2)
According to the Alert Book drawings these are for (from aft) the Running Backstay, Running Backstay Tackle, and Standing Backstay. (set up with deadeyes.)
The kit rigging follows the Alert book.
 
The subject of Backstays.
There is a confusion in my mind about the notation used in relation to the rigging in the Alert Book. There are several instances where the description for the same line varies across the different drawings.
For instance, drawing H22/2 shows ratlines across all five connections along the channel whereas on H4/1 they terminate at shroud four.
The book narrative notes that:- a fifth pair of deadeyes were added for the Standing Backstay, - on the channel and shown in drawing H4/1
However, drawing D1/1 annotates this as being a shroud deadeye, with the first of the iron plates aft of the channels as relating to the standing backstay. The aft two plates being for the standing end and tackle of the running backstay.
So how many standing backstays are there?
Strangely, the rigging table in the Alert Book (taken from Steel) does not list backstays for the lower masts, only the T’gallant standing Backstay is mentioned.
 

3906(3)
Backstay rigging as I recognise it.
 
The use of deadeyes on the iron plate, ostensibly the same size as for the shrouds along the channel doesn’t sit easy with my eye. Tackles are usually seen hooked into iron plates on Cutters.
The question remains, if the first iron plate is indeed for a standing backstay, what size line is it, and is the use of deadeyes a drawing error.
The kit indicates use of 0.75mm ø line which scales up to a 6” circumference line, as with the shrouds.
Steel gives the circumference of the shroud lines as 8” scaling to a 1mm ø line.
None of the cutter models I have seen have a deadeye arrangement for this standing backstay, except those based on Goodwin’s Alert book, which the kit follows.
 

3301
The Hawke model with the usual tackle secured Backstays.
 
I note that Lennarth Petersson in his book Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft shows yet another variation on backstay tackles, but tackles they are, not deadeyes.
Having looked extensively thro’ all my rigging books and at many cutter models, I have decided not to use deadeyes for the backstays and I have formed all the plates to take hooks.
How I will rig the tackles I can now safely leave until later.
 
B.E.
16/12/2019
 

Post 90
Cheerful is completed.
An eighteen month journey has drawn to a conclusion.
It is interesting to note that the original was built and fitted out within a twelve month period.
Tempted as I may be to mast and rig her, display constraints rule this out, but it's not like I don't have fully rigged models on display, Pegasus, and indeed a 1:72 scale cutter amongst others.
I am happy to conclude the build with this configuration in the knowledge that there are many  contemporary models displayed in this style.
 
I really have to compliment Chuck for making this posssible with his wonderful plans, accurate  pre-cut hull parts, mini kits, and excellent instructions.
Cheerful as I bought it is an example of a high end PoB kit with beautiful kit specific fittings, a real pleasure to build.
 
 I must also compliment Jason at Crown Timberyard who supplied the bulk of the Boxwood strip and sheet, presented in a very clean and accurate condition.
 
So here are the completion photo's before I slip the cover over the base. The case  wasn't designed for Cheerful but for Pegasus to serve as protection during the long years before she was masted, but it does ideally fit the bill.

9361(2)

9371

9360(2)

9374(2)
A set of 1:48 scale figures stand to provide a human scale to the model.

9376

9380(2)

9365(2)
To provide an Historical link two copper coins of 1806 sit at the head and stern of Cheerful.

9382

9384

9387

9388

9392(2)

9383

9396

9403
Display position yet to be decided;
 
Finally I must  thank those members who have shown interest in this build and for their supportive comments and 'likes'.
 
Regards,  
 
B.E.
 

Post 89
Boom and Gaff
As part of my reduced rig presentation of Cheerful  I decided to add the Boom and gaff, or at least make them to see how they look.
These are made from Ramin dowel a good straight fine grained timber which, as the spars are painted black, is a good substitute for  the more expensive Boxwood.
Boom
8mm ø dowel is used to make the boom which has an o/a length of 334 mm. The interesting thing about booms is that they taper both ends but not from the centre of the spar.
The taper is produced on the lathe using a card template to check the diameters at various points. The taper is achieved using sandpaper only.

8313
It's when long spars are required to be worked that the bed extension to the Proxxon lathe comes into its own.
A lot of taper is required on the boom reducing in the outboard end from 8mm to 1.5mm and the inboard end from 8mm to 3mm.

8546
The jaws proportions were transferred to 3/32" Boxwood sheet, and cut out on the scroll saw, finishing off by hand.

8550
Checking the fit of the jaws.

8548
...and of the parral trucks.

8549
trial fit of the boom.
Gaff
I used 5mmø Ramin dowel, and the procedure is exactly the same as with the boom, but with considerably less sanding dust.

8870
The 'iron' bands are once again  made from heat shrink tubing.
Mast rings

8885
I had Chuck's mini kit for the rings I used a few to slip over the stump mast and provide a spacer between the boom and gaff.

8880

8884

8881

8883
 
Getting close to completion now
 
B.E.
08/05/2019
 
 

Cheers guys for your comments and likes 👍
Quickly moving on.
Post 88
Positioning the anchors
The position Chuck has placed the anchors on his model has a nice symmetry about it,  looks aesthetically pleasing, and shows the anchors off to good effect.
This placement  however seems to put them a long way from the cathead which is unusual at least in respect of the Bower anchors, and this is the source of some puzzlement that has been engaging my mind.
 The two timberheads either side of the first port are there to do with anchor tackle, but it seems to me that there should be another one further back to to secure the shank rather than have that function achieved by seizing around the rail above the second port.
... but bringing the anchor ring closer to the Cathead and Cat block  means the shank crosses the first port and the stock inhibits the line of fire available for the chase gun, The sole example we have of the Cheerful/Surly model shows the anchor ring close by the Cathead with the shank running across the first port.

This is not unusual as demonstrated by many models of all ship types. I have scoured my books and endless photo's of cutters to try and establish anchor stowage arrangements.
My solution to this particular problem is to add a bulwark cleat to secure the aft shank painter.

8523(2)
 The forward painter can then be secured around the second timberhead, and a stopper secured thro' the ring and over the first  timberhead.

8518

8531

8534
This is the arrangement I have opted for on the starboard side, crowded as it around the cathead area.
On the Port side I have the anchor hanging from the Cat block and secured by the stopper.

8529

8520
I like this position, it is aesthetically pleasing, indicates the use of the Cat block, and removes all of the issues around stowing the anchor.

8540
Getting some drape into the cables.

8527
I can see myself fiddling for some time adjusting the cables along the deck.
In general I find securing the anchors to the boat a tricky business; they seem to have a life of their own, and temporary seizings are required whilst the first proper seizing is applied.
 Syren wooden anchors are far more delicate than their metal equivalents, and extra care has to be taken when attaching the puddening and cable to the anchor ring.   
Knock the shank and there is a risk of snapping it.

8539
Still have a nagging doubt, but for the present I will turn my attention to a bit of lathe work.
 
B.E.
04/05/2019
 

Suffering from modellers block in relation to the anchors, I turn my attention to another tricky subject.
Post 87
A boat for Cheerful
The only reference photo I could find of a boat onboard a cutter is this one of a model of the Hawke of 1777.

Hawke
The Cutter Alert book by Peter Goodwin indicates a boat stored on the centre line but from the plans there is room only for a 13' boat. On Cheerful in this position a boat of only 10.5'  could be accommodated.
The  Model Shipways kit of a 1:48 scale Longboat would be in scale but is far too large for a deck stowed boat, and at 26' is on the large size for a towed boat.
Before I consider scratching a boat as I did for Pegasus, I  knocked up a version of a 14' cutter to assess whether I like the look of a boat on Cheerful's deck .

8424
The boat is based on a Caldercraft resin hull kitted out with thin boxwood planking and fittings.

8425

8426

8429

8431

8432(2)

8433(2)

8437
Not quite sure if it's what I'm looking for but I'll leave it in place  to see if it grows on me whilst I return to the anchors, and making the boom.
 
B.E.
03/05/2019
 

Post 86
Thinking about Anchors
... or ground tackle as we professionals call it. 😉
I have usually purchased metal anchors for my models, I check out the weight sizes according to Steel for the vessel concerned, work out the shank length at scale which gives me the size to buy.
Anchors were allocated to ships by relative size and tonnage and Steel gives tables covering all rates.

His reference to cutters appears to indicate (3) anchors of 10cwt + a figure for quarters which is not clear. This is at variance with Goodwin's figures in the Alert book which suggests anchors of 18cwt, 15cwt , plus a stream of 6cwt, and a kedge of 3cwt
 
I don't know how Chuck arrived at the sizes for the anchors, they have a shank length of 55mm which scales up to a length of 8' 6" which according to Steel equates to an anchor of 6cwt  but I made up the Syren wooden anchor kits, and in truth I do like the look of them.
 
I used a toned down black paint for the anchors followed by weathering powder, dark brown and a smidge of rust.
 
For the puddening of the anchor ring I used 0.30mm line (2" circ at scale) and 0.1mm line ¾" circ at scale)
The stocks I drilled and pegged and coated with wipe-on poly.

8394
To represent the iron stock bands I used my favourite medium of slices of heat shrinkable rubber tubing.
A short blast from the hairdryer on top heat and it moulds securely to the stock.
 
Rigging the anchors
I am trying out various arrangements, mainly using John Harland's reference work, Seamanship in the age of Sail.
In relation to anchor cables and windlasses he describes thus:
The cable is taken three times around the barrel, the turns coming off the top, the inboard end being kept to the outer end to facilitate the turns.

8402

8404
The cable is 1.5mm dia stuff equivalent to a 9" circ cable.
The Alert cable is given as 11½" circ - 1.9mm ø at scale.
I decided to stick with 1.5mm stuff.

8408

8409
Normans (wooden pegs) have been inserted into heaver holes to which the cables will be seized.
This is a stylistic arrangement to display the run of the cables  around the windlass and onto the anchor ring.
I continued to rig the Cat blocks and falls  using a 6mm double block with the ironwork represented  once again by a slice of heat shrink tubing.

8418

8420
That is the easy bit, but as with other questions relating to Cheerful, positioning the anchors is a different story, and one that is giving me a headache, and  brought me at least for the present, to a shuddering halt. 😖
 
B.E.
01/05/2019
 

Post 84
A significant milestone is reached
So here she is some seventeen months since the keel was laid.

8243

8245

8246

8248

8249

8252

8253

8268

8254

8264
Whether I proceed to mast and rig her is undecided but there is still a fair bit of fiddling to do before I consider her complete.
 
B.E.
24/04/2019
 
 

Post 83
Completing the deck fittings
With the guns completed the remaining deck fittings are added;
I have also busied myself making a stub Bowsprit which will remain in place if I decide not to rig her.

8215
 

8214

8256(2)
I painted and weathered the Bowsprit retaining fids to represent iron which I thought more apppropriate than wood.

8228
Pumps. The pump handles are now coloured to represent iron. I used toned down black paint and brown weathering powder to slightly change the look.
 
Belaying pins.
From the plans 9mm o/a length 3.5mm heads. As suggested by Chuck I used 3/64” x 3/64”  Boxwood square stock.
How do you make belay pins, the answer is very carefully.
These are truly fine little items and I only have to give them a hard look for them to snap usually just when I reach the point of near completion.
I am carving these by hand using a very sharp N0 11 scalpel blade, and my success rate is currently around 1 in 3.
I have doubts that the stems will hold good under any sort of pressure so I may have to increase the diameter and enlarge the holes in the pin rack.

8231
I did retro add the hoops at the axletrees of the carronades which was a bit tricky but achieved insitu using micro drills and flexible awls.
I thought in retrospect that as the deck rings were in place to take the training tackles they should be there.

8268(2)
The Winch in place together with the stub mast.
Not much to do with the mast, apart from adding the boom saddle and mast cleats.

8216
I fashioned the saddle on the mill and used Chuck's  7mm cleats to complete the job.

8256(3)
The chimney is covered with micro lead foil to represent metal.
Need to generally check her over now, and give her a dusting.
 
B.E. 22/04/2019
 

Post 82
The agony of indecision
I have now rigged all the guns, bar the portside bow chaser.
I have flipflopped between fitting it at the bow port or the second port, but the decision now has to be made.

8026
Having the port gun at the second port position but the starboard gun at the bow gives the model an unbalanced look, and having no guns at the bow with those large open ports empty doesn't look good aesthetically to my eye.
 I still think it's odd having those two large openings without any protection from an incoming sea.

8034
Gromit seems as confused as I am, but I can't deny the irrefutable evidence of the plans.

 
The notation that the windlass be moved two feet back to give more room to work the portside chase gun.

1972
The plan appearing to show the revised position of the windlass.
But the most important factor Mrs W agreed  the bow position looked the best, even if it raises issues of practicality.

8027
So bow position it is with all its apparent difficulty of working the gun.
I can now fix the gun and Windlass and complete the other deck fittings.
B.E.
17/04/2019
 

Post 81
A base for Cheerful
Whilst I wait for more blocks to arrive I turn my attention to making a more stylish base for Cheerful.

7618
For the base I have an old drawer front made of American oak, already shaped and profiled.

7651(2)
The hull supports are made from some 1/8" Boxwood sheet and slots are cut into some 7mm Walnut square stock to take the support tabs.

7654(2)
 

7657(2)

7658(2)
This will suffice for now but I may add keel blocks along the hull as I did with Pegasus.
Taking a break for a week now, and hopefully when I return my rigging blocks will have arrived.🙂
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
05/04/2019
 

Post 52


 
Muirneag completed


 
Building this model has been a four-month journey of interest and pleasure and in a way I am sad to see it end.


 
Firstly the detail shots.


 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 
The final set of photos which together with the detail shots I hope may be of benefit to those following on with this kit.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fifie and Zulu



Zulu and Fifie

 
My thanks to Chris Watton for providing the makings for my conversion, but even with an out of box build there is a fine model to be had, and it is a good choice for those starting out in our hobby.


 
With three Vanguard models built in continuous succession I am now taking a short break before I take on another project.


 
I have a bathroom remodelling starting early in the New Year.


 
So, thank you to those who have supported my build, in the meantime I will be compiling my usual photo book of the Fifie and Zulu builds.

 

 
Stay safe and wishing you all a better 2021


 
B.E.

28/12/2020

 
 
 
 

Post 78
Arming Cheerful
With the breeching ropes fitted to the guns it is at last time to fix the guns in position on the deck.

7410(2)
 A spot of pva on the wheels is sufficient to hold the guns in place at the ports and allow forming the shape of the ropes, and later fitting of the side tackles.

7415(2)
Still in a state of indecision about the positioning of the Portside long gun, and why were the two forward second ports left free of guns?
 
Whereas the Breeching rope attachment is a fairly straightforward procedure particularly if you follow Chuck's fine example, making up the side tackles by comparison is a bit of a pain.
There are two single blocks each with a hook and the standing end of the lanyard spliced into the bulwark block.
I am using Chuck's now discontinued 3mm black plastic hooks and 3mm Boxwood blocks. For the lanyards I am using Syren .012" (0.3mm ø line.)

7401(2)
A further modification to the gun jig is required to assist rigging the tackles before they are transferred to the gun.
The main issue with side tackles is getting them to look in scale both in relation to the carriages, and the breeching ropes.

7413
The 0.3mm ø line equates to a 2" circumference line which is the upper end of the rope size for guns of this calibre, and there is a sufficient visual difference on the model with the breeching lines.
0.25mm ø line equivalent to 1½" circ  would also be fine and provide an even greater contrast with the breechings.
Personally I wouldn't go with any greater line size, not least because fitting it thro' the 3mm block sheaves would prove testy.
The first side tackles are fitted but I'm not sure I like the effect.

7422(2)

7421

7416
Probably to do with getting the lanyards to hang naturally.

1855
 Not that this example on a twelve pounder on Victory is anything to write home about.

7424
I have to wait for a supply of blocks from Chuck so I'll have a play  with the side tackles in the meantime.

7407(2)
Completing the guns is probably one of the longest exercises of the build. I actually started the process in early January.
 
B.E.
27/03/2019
 

Cheers Michael,  and thanks for the reminder about those teenytiny lines and knots.😉
Post 76
Completing the rudder
I had completed the rudder and its ironwork earlier in the build but now I turn to adding the tiller.

4904

3017(1)

7156
I may be wrong but I don't think a rudder coat is necessary given that the rudder head doesn't pass betwixt decks.
Onto the Tiller
Chuck had suggested cutting the tiller from some 1/8th Boxwood sheet and I followed his example.
There followed a period of  shaping using a scalpel blade, files and sandpaper. I did the whole tiller from one piece including the ball on the end.

7185
The rudder was secured on the mill to cut the mortise for the tiller heel.
The iron bands were added around the rudder head using Chuck's  Laserboard fittings, the bolt heads represented by mini pva blobs allowed to dry before painting.

7151
The tiller is not glued into place, it is held by a snug fit of the tenon in the rudder mortise.
 
In fitting the tiller I took care to ensure that the underside height at the forward end was 22mm (41" above deck.) Don't want the helmsman to be on tiptoes to steer the ship.
Once again I found myself indecisive when it came to the decoration of the tiller; all natural, paint, part paint/natural, bloody decisions.

7189
In the end I decided, at least for the present, to paint the tiller arm red but varnish the handle section.

7198

7196
Back to gun rigging.
B.E.
18/03/2019
 

Cheers guys for the appreciation and 'likes' 🙂
 
Post 75
Ordnance all in order
The fiddly fittings are all completed, not the end of the process as the quoins have to be glued in position and then there's the tackle rigging, but a relief nonetheless.

7098

7113
For the first time the full complement in place on Cheerful.

7114

7116

7111

7107

7105

7104
Before I return the task of tackle rigging I will have a change of  scene and complete the rudder and make the tiller.
 
B.E.
15/03/2019