Blue Ensign

Very kind of you to say so Bob, but I think you flatter me, there are so many excellent logs on here that I use as reference points, and grateful for it.🙂
I've not actually sat and read the book from cover to cover, but I have made extensive reference to mainly  the Scottish fishing section, having read it over and over.
When I've finished Muirneag I will take time out and sit and read it as a relaxation, with glass of Merlot in hand.🍷
 
Have a good Christmas and stay safe.
 
B.E.

Cheers Guys for you ongoing support, much appreciated.
 
Post 49


The Rigging Part Four


 
Rigging the jib

 
This is the last piece of rigging fitted to the model.
 

9427(2)
Before I start, I need to make two hooked tackle blocks and a Cranse iron.


9434(2)
The kit provided Cranse Iron suffers from the limitations of Photo etch, being flat in profile with the ring that takes the tack hook being in the wrong plane.

 
Three connections (cringles) secure and work the Jib sail. At the peak, for the Halyard, at the clue, for the sheets, and at the stay for the Tack.


 
The kit jib is fitted with a simple cringle at the peak for the Halyard attachment, whereas the Underhill plans show a jack yard attachment at the head of the sail. Again there is mention of the use of a Sister Hook to secure the halyard to the jack yard strop.


 
Too risky to start messing about with the sail, the possibility of fraying bolt ropes overrides the merit of adding this small detail.

 

9459
The halyard runs thro’ the upper half sheave at the Fore masthead.


 
I have used 0.30mm line for the Halyard, and 0.20mm line for the tackle falls


9461(2)
At its end there is a tackle (6”(3mm) blocks). The upper block is hooked to an eye in the Halyard, and the lower block is hooked to a bolt thro’ the stringer.


The halyard tackle is secured between the Fore yard halyard and the Burton pendent tackles.


9448
The tack is hooked to the Cranse iron to which both the outhaul and inhaul lines are also attached.

 

9449(2)
The outhaul runs thro’ the sheave in the Bowsprit end, thro’ the sheave set low down on the Starboard side stem, up thro’ the fairlead at the bow to belay inboard at a cleat.

The inhaul runs directly inboard to belay at the large cleat fixed to the skegs on the Port side.


 
The sheets (0.30mm line) are doubled thro’ the clew cringle and belay port and starboard at the kevels.

 

9443
Jib sheet to the Port side kevel.


9442
Jib sheet to the Starboard side kevel.


9454
I love the lines of these fast sleek boats.



9440(2)

9446(2)
All the rigging is now in place but will still need tweaking and the line ends properly belayed, that is the next task.

 
 
B.E.

18/12/20


 


 

Very kind of you to say so Bob, but I think you flatter me, there are so many excellent logs on here that I use as reference points, and grateful for it.🙂
I've not actually sat and read the book from cover to cover, but I have made extensive reference to mainly  the Scottish fishing section, having read it over and over.
When I've finished Muirneag I will take time out and sit and read it as a relaxation, with glass of Merlot in hand.🍷
 
Have a good Christmas and stay safe.
 
B.E.

Looks pretty clean to me Steve, and certainly better than mine was at that stage. Plank thinness seems to have afflicted several builders me included, but unless there is light behind it I found it not to be too problematical once the hull had been varnished, and in my case painted below the waterline.
 
B. E.

Cheers Guys for you ongoing support, much appreciated.
 
Post 49


The Rigging Part Four


 
Rigging the jib

 
This is the last piece of rigging fitted to the model.
 

9427(2)
Before I start, I need to make two hooked tackle blocks and a Cranse iron.


9434(2)
The kit provided Cranse Iron suffers from the limitations of Photo etch, being flat in profile with the ring that takes the tack hook being in the wrong plane.

 
Three connections (cringles) secure and work the Jib sail. At the peak, for the Halyard, at the clue, for the sheets, and at the stay for the Tack.


 
The kit jib is fitted with a simple cringle at the peak for the Halyard attachment, whereas the Underhill plans show a jack yard attachment at the head of the sail. Again there is mention of the use of a Sister Hook to secure the halyard to the jack yard strop.


 
Too risky to start messing about with the sail, the possibility of fraying bolt ropes overrides the merit of adding this small detail.

 

9459
The halyard runs thro’ the upper half sheave at the Fore masthead.


 
I have used 0.30mm line for the Halyard, and 0.20mm line for the tackle falls


9461(2)
At its end there is a tackle (6”(3mm) blocks). The upper block is hooked to an eye in the Halyard, and the lower block is hooked to a bolt thro’ the stringer.


The halyard tackle is secured between the Fore yard halyard and the Burton pendent tackles.


9448
The tack is hooked to the Cranse iron to which both the outhaul and inhaul lines are also attached.

 

9449(2)
The outhaul runs thro’ the sheave in the Bowsprit end, thro’ the sheave set low down on the Starboard side stem, up thro’ the fairlead at the bow to belay inboard at a cleat.

The inhaul runs directly inboard to belay at the large cleat fixed to the skegs on the Port side.


 
The sheets (0.30mm line) are doubled thro’ the clew cringle and belay port and starboard at the kevels.

 

9443
Jib sheet to the Port side kevel.


9442
Jib sheet to the Starboard side kevel.


9454
I love the lines of these fast sleek boats.



9440(2)

9446(2)
All the rigging is now in place but will still need tweaking and the line ends properly belayed, that is the next task.

 
 
B.E.

18/12/20


 


 

Cheers Guys for you ongoing support, much appreciated.
 
Post 49


The Rigging Part Four


 
Rigging the jib

 
This is the last piece of rigging fitted to the model.
 

9427(2)
Before I start, I need to make two hooked tackle blocks and a Cranse iron.


9434(2)
The kit provided Cranse Iron suffers from the limitations of Photo etch, being flat in profile with the ring that takes the tack hook being in the wrong plane.

 
Three connections (cringles) secure and work the Jib sail. At the peak, for the Halyard, at the clue, for the sheets, and at the stay for the Tack.


 
The kit jib is fitted with a simple cringle at the peak for the Halyard attachment, whereas the Underhill plans show a jack yard attachment at the head of the sail. Again there is mention of the use of a Sister Hook to secure the halyard to the jack yard strop.


 
Too risky to start messing about with the sail, the possibility of fraying bolt ropes overrides the merit of adding this small detail.

 

9459
The halyard runs thro’ the upper half sheave at the Fore masthead.


 
I have used 0.30mm line for the Halyard, and 0.20mm line for the tackle falls


9461(2)
At its end there is a tackle (6”(3mm) blocks). The upper block is hooked to an eye in the Halyard, and the lower block is hooked to a bolt thro’ the stringer.


The halyard tackle is secured between the Fore yard halyard and the Burton pendent tackles.


9448
The tack is hooked to the Cranse iron to which both the outhaul and inhaul lines are also attached.

 

9449(2)
The outhaul runs thro’ the sheave in the Bowsprit end, thro’ the sheave set low down on the Starboard side stem, up thro’ the fairlead at the bow to belay inboard at a cleat.

The inhaul runs directly inboard to belay at the large cleat fixed to the skegs on the Port side.


 
The sheets (0.30mm line) are doubled thro’ the clew cringle and belay port and starboard at the kevels.

 

9443
Jib sheet to the Port side kevel.


9442
Jib sheet to the Starboard side kevel.


9454
I love the lines of these fast sleek boats.



9440(2)

9446(2)
All the rigging is now in place but will still need tweaking and the line ends properly belayed, that is the next task.

 
 
B.E.

18/12/20


 


 

Cheers Guys for you ongoing support, much appreciated.
 
Post 49


The Rigging Part Four


 
Rigging the jib

 
This is the last piece of rigging fitted to the model.
 

9427(2)
Before I start, I need to make two hooked tackle blocks and a Cranse iron.


9434(2)
The kit provided Cranse Iron suffers from the limitations of Photo etch, being flat in profile with the ring that takes the tack hook being in the wrong plane.

 
Three connections (cringles) secure and work the Jib sail. At the peak, for the Halyard, at the clue, for the sheets, and at the stay for the Tack.


 
The kit jib is fitted with a simple cringle at the peak for the Halyard attachment, whereas the Underhill plans show a jack yard attachment at the head of the sail. Again there is mention of the use of a Sister Hook to secure the halyard to the jack yard strop.


 
Too risky to start messing about with the sail, the possibility of fraying bolt ropes overrides the merit of adding this small detail.

 

9459
The halyard runs thro’ the upper half sheave at the Fore masthead.


 
I have used 0.30mm line for the Halyard, and 0.20mm line for the tackle falls


9461(2)
At its end there is a tackle (6”(3mm) blocks). The upper block is hooked to an eye in the Halyard, and the lower block is hooked to a bolt thro’ the stringer.


The halyard tackle is secured between the Fore yard halyard and the Burton pendent tackles.


9448
The tack is hooked to the Cranse iron to which both the outhaul and inhaul lines are also attached.

 

9449(2)
The outhaul runs thro’ the sheave in the Bowsprit end, thro’ the sheave set low down on the Starboard side stem, up thro’ the fairlead at the bow to belay inboard at a cleat.

The inhaul runs directly inboard to belay at the large cleat fixed to the skegs on the Port side.


 
The sheets (0.30mm line) are doubled thro’ the clew cringle and belay port and starboard at the kevels.

 

9443
Jib sheet to the Port side kevel.


9442
Jib sheet to the Starboard side kevel.


9454
I love the lines of these fast sleek boats.



9440(2)

9446(2)
All the rigging is now in place but will still need tweaking and the line ends properly belayed, that is the next task.

 
 
B.E.

18/12/20


 


 

Cheers Guys for you ongoing support, much appreciated.
 
Post 49


The Rigging Part Four


 
Rigging the jib

 
This is the last piece of rigging fitted to the model.
 

9427(2)
Before I start, I need to make two hooked tackle blocks and a Cranse iron.


9434(2)
The kit provided Cranse Iron suffers from the limitations of Photo etch, being flat in profile with the ring that takes the tack hook being in the wrong plane.

 
Three connections (cringles) secure and work the Jib sail. At the peak, for the Halyard, at the clue, for the sheets, and at the stay for the Tack.


 
The kit jib is fitted with a simple cringle at the peak for the Halyard attachment, whereas the Underhill plans show a jack yard attachment at the head of the sail. Again there is mention of the use of a Sister Hook to secure the halyard to the jack yard strop.


 
Too risky to start messing about with the sail, the possibility of fraying bolt ropes overrides the merit of adding this small detail.

 

9459
The halyard runs thro’ the upper half sheave at the Fore masthead.


 
I have used 0.30mm line for the Halyard, and 0.20mm line for the tackle falls


9461(2)
At its end there is a tackle (6”(3mm) blocks). The upper block is hooked to an eye in the Halyard, and the lower block is hooked to a bolt thro’ the stringer.


The halyard tackle is secured between the Fore yard halyard and the Burton pendent tackles.


9448
The tack is hooked to the Cranse iron to which both the outhaul and inhaul lines are also attached.

 

9449(2)
The outhaul runs thro’ the sheave in the Bowsprit end, thro’ the sheave set low down on the Starboard side stem, up thro’ the fairlead at the bow to belay inboard at a cleat.

The inhaul runs directly inboard to belay at the large cleat fixed to the skegs on the Port side.


 
The sheets (0.30mm line) are doubled thro’ the clew cringle and belay port and starboard at the kevels.

 

9443
Jib sheet to the Port side kevel.


9442
Jib sheet to the Starboard side kevel.


9454
I love the lines of these fast sleek boats.



9440(2)

9446(2)
All the rigging is now in place but will still need tweaking and the line ends properly belayed, that is the next task.

 
 
B.E.

18/12/20


 


 

Cheers Guys for you ongoing support, much appreciated.
 
Post 49


The Rigging Part Four


 
Rigging the jib

 
This is the last piece of rigging fitted to the model.
 

9427(2)
Before I start, I need to make two hooked tackle blocks and a Cranse iron.


9434(2)
The kit provided Cranse Iron suffers from the limitations of Photo etch, being flat in profile with the ring that takes the tack hook being in the wrong plane.

 
Three connections (cringles) secure and work the Jib sail. At the peak, for the Halyard, at the clue, for the sheets, and at the stay for the Tack.


 
The kit jib is fitted with a simple cringle at the peak for the Halyard attachment, whereas the Underhill plans show a jack yard attachment at the head of the sail. Again there is mention of the use of a Sister Hook to secure the halyard to the jack yard strop.


 
Too risky to start messing about with the sail, the possibility of fraying bolt ropes overrides the merit of adding this small detail.

 

9459
The halyard runs thro’ the upper half sheave at the Fore masthead.


 
I have used 0.30mm line for the Halyard, and 0.20mm line for the tackle falls


9461(2)
At its end there is a tackle (6”(3mm) blocks). The upper block is hooked to an eye in the Halyard, and the lower block is hooked to a bolt thro’ the stringer.


The halyard tackle is secured between the Fore yard halyard and the Burton pendent tackles.


9448
The tack is hooked to the Cranse iron to which both the outhaul and inhaul lines are also attached.

 

9449(2)
The outhaul runs thro’ the sheave in the Bowsprit end, thro’ the sheave set low down on the Starboard side stem, up thro’ the fairlead at the bow to belay inboard at a cleat.

The inhaul runs directly inboard to belay at the large cleat fixed to the skegs on the Port side.


 
The sheets (0.30mm line) are doubled thro’ the clew cringle and belay port and starboard at the kevels.

 

9443
Jib sheet to the Port side kevel.


9442
Jib sheet to the Starboard side kevel.


9454
I love the lines of these fast sleek boats.



9440(2)

9446(2)
All the rigging is now in place but will still need tweaking and the line ends properly belayed, that is the next task.

 
 
B.E.

18/12/20


 


 

Fantastic in every way, BE. This is one of the best build logs I have ever read!
 
I hope you poured yourself a pint and found a yourself a nice, comfortable chair to sit in while you were reading!

Looks very smart Erik, especially against the black hull.👍
 
B.E.

Looks very smart Erik, especially against the black hull.👍
 
B.E.

Looks very smart Erik, especially against the black hull.👍
 
B.E.

Hi Ken, I think it was Danny who alerted me to their use in his Vulture log and I'm reliably informed that the technical description is Hairdressers Sectioning clips, they are readily available  on places like Amazon or e-bay,  but I think my wife got them for me in a local shop.

 
What is good about them is they don't apply too much pressure and can be bent and modified to suit particular holding jobs  in awkward places.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 
 
 

Thank you Bob, Grant, Michael, Martin, Steve, and Christian.
 
So this build is completed after a leisurely five month exercise.
The final item to make the base board and hull supports.

1034
For the base I have used a plain piece of Boxwood sheet of 3mm thickness with slightly chamfered edges.

1036
 You may recognise what I enlisted into service for the supports.
 

1037
For a change I made a greater effort for the final photo shoot.
 
and here are the results.

0444

0448

0465

0475

0496

0497

1029

1038

1040

1044

1045

1046

1048

1049

1050

1053

1054

1056.
Thoughts on the Pinnace kit.
My thanks go to Chuck for designing this fine kit and giving us modellers the opportunity to build a nicely scaled model of an iconic 18th c boat.
This is a fine little model but a sod to plank, although I did use rather thin Boxwood strip which allowed a very small margin for sanding corrections .
The supplied basswood is not really suitable for a model of this single planked type being too soft and feathery to get clean edges. I did replace much of the wood with my stock Boxwood and were I to do it again I would use Boxwood overall albeit of a somewhat thicker strip for the exterior planking, allowing me a little more leeway for my planking deficiencies.
I wasn't too happy with my work at the outset but as the build progressed and I got into the detail I eased up on myself somewhat, a model is more than the sum of its parts, and although I don't rate it as one of my best efforts, I do rather like the look of it outside of the prying eye of the macro lens.
This has been a nice little five month summer project, not entirely relaxing, but with a satisfying result, and it has wetted my appetite for Chuck's forthcoming Barge kit.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

A small diversion to play with the boat equipment.
The Grapnel
The grapnel as provided by the kit seems to have been rigged without the benefit of a ring, the line secured directly thro' the eye in the shank where the ring should be.

A grapnel as illustrated by Steel shows a ring fitted thro' the eye.
Steel gives a grapnel rope circ for ships boats as 3" - 3½" which equates to around 1mm diameter line at scale.

0946
This alone would not be possible without a ring, particularly as the classic hitch for small anchors is a Fisherman's Bend where the line passes twice thro' the ring.
 He also gives 35 fathoms as the length of the grapnel rope. which scales to 2667mm. This is 8.75ft at scale, where would all that fit in the boat!

0967(2)
I satisfied myself with a rope length of around 30' - 300mm which I figured would be long enough for what is essentially a harbour boat.
Boat Hook
This is shown on the plan but the makings are not included with the kit.
 

0950
Not too difficult an item to reproduce, I use a soft white metal strip (the arm from one of Mrs W's hair clips, cut and shaped with files, and inserted into a length of thin Walnut dowel.

0948

0964

0956
The Thole pins and chocks are also shown on these shots. Nothing much to say about the tholes except they are fiddly little things to make, parts very small, fingers too big.
I changed the style slightly from the plans, and left them unpainted as a contrast to the predominantly red  scheme.

0961
Just the Splashguards left to do now.
 
B.E.

Thank you Sailor and Nils.
@ Nils -  George is a Dean's Marine 1.24 scale figure, but he underwent some serious surgery. originally he was a Vietnam War period American soldier in Jungle gear. His arms were broken in two places, his uniform and jungle hat cut away and he was given some clothes from the slop chest. I was pleased that at a given 1:24 scale he fitted the boat spot on. 
 
B.E.
 

It’s been a couple weeks since I’ve posted an update here.  Work has been a bit of a blur.  My studio had a big client presentation on Thursday, which my team has been working towards for the last few months.  We presented final drawings for our clients’ new house and grounds.  And we knocked it out of the park.  I am so proud of our team, and of the lovely project we shared with the owners.
 
Now things slow down a bit as we approach the holiday, so I can concentrate on the really important things... such as ship modeling.
 
I finished the timberheads, all 98 of them (yes, I counted.  ). As I said before, this is not a particularly difficult task, it just takes patience.  Then I added the side rails, which are developed in two parts per side, with a very nice little dovetail joint in the middle.  These fit perfectly, and it would be hard to mess this up, as Chris has provided laser-etched marks on each timberhead, to mark the correct position.  He even provided a vertical mark at the midpoint, to mark the location of the joint, so it’s really easy to make sure the rails on each side are in the same spot fore-and-aft (yes Chris, I noticed!  Thank you. 👌).  I glued them in with white PVA, and clamped them to make sure they conformed to the curve.
 
 



 
Then I added six adorable little cleats to the rails, and then gave the deck a light sanding with 600 grit paper, just to take the fuzz of of it, but not enough to ruin the beautiful etching.  Then I gave the deck and rails two coats of matte poly varnish.  I like the subtle satin sheen of this Minwax poly.  Good stuff.
 
Then I added the registration number on to the sides of the hull.  This was done with white dry transfer letters (RR Roman, white, from Woodland Scenics).   Came out well, I think, and it gives the boat real character.  I made the little decimal point with a toothpick, and white acrylic.  
 
The number identifies her as BF 1479 Fidelity, the Zulu from those beautiful drawings at the Greenwich Museum, which closely resembles Chris’ design.  The “BF” is for Banff, her port of registration.
 
 

Back from the fair county of Devonshire, William had a fine time on the Dart.

0720
Here performing his lookout duties as we cross from Dittisham to Greenway.
Back to the build and in relation to small boats I like to have a scale figure to check the  relevant proportions of any model I build, and here is George one of the oarsmen.

0922
Here you can see that with George in position the oar loom doesn't quite reach where the thole pins will fit.
Is this correct, should the loom fit between the thole pin centres? the plans would suggest that this width would allow the thicker section of the oar to pass thro'.

In this contemporary model the looms  appear to just catch the thole pins.
I was interested in the oar proportions and the relationship to the tholes.
There's a lot more to this oar and thole business than you might first think.
The Length of the oars has a direct relationship to the width of the boat, and whether it is single or double banked; the tholes to the distance from the aft edge of the thwart.
On our model the centre of the chocks scales to 13" from the relevant thwart edge which puts it about mid centre between thwarts.
Looking at boat plans this seems to generally be the case.
Our boat is scaled to a width of 5'11" The oars on our boat are 186mm length overall with a Loom length of 37mm. This gives a length of 14.6' and  a loom length of 2.9'.





0929
This is the link to the online reference tables by Steel.
https://www.thebigrow.com/?p=659
I must admit I couldn't make any sensible correlation  between the Steel figures and our model. Looking at his tables relating to Barge,Wherry,or Skiff  the oar lengths seemed much longer for an equivalent breadth to our Pinnace.
This of course is all academic as the oars as modelled look proportional to my eye, and resting along the thwarts there is no direct reference to the thole positions.
 
Need to fix the Thole pins and chocks now.
 
B.E.

Thanks Bob.
Thinking about oars.
As a change from working on the boat I decided to make the oars.
Our Pinnace is a four oared single banked boat which means the oarsmen sit on the opposite side of the boat to the oars thole pin an arrangement which was common in Pinnace and barges.
There are two main references regarding oar specification; David Steel and W.E May's book The Boats of Men of War, which also makes use of Steel's 1797 work.
In our model the oar is  scaled to 14' 9"
For the handles, looms, and body I have used Boxwood 3.4mm square stock The blades will be cut from some Boxwood sheet stuff.

0201
For this the wood lathe is required, not used since I turned the masts and yards for Pegasus. These oars can be made without using a lathe, but it surely makes life easier.

0218
Forming the handle, the Loom is left in the original square profile, although David Steel in his The Art of making Masts, Yards, Gaffs, Booms, Blocks and Oars (1797)notes that The Looms of boats' oars are often made round.

0211
 A combination of files and sand paper is used  to shape the various parts.

0221.
Getting quite crowded on the work bench at present.

0323

0322

0321
The completed set before final sanding.
 

0325

0326

328
I am undecided at the moment how to decorate the oars, paint them or leave them with a clear finish.
All of the contemporary models appear to show the oars painted red overall some with only the Handle left unpainted.
As the boat interior is mainly clear I am leaning towards an overall red paint job, but this is not a pressing decision to make.
 
Making the oars has been a pleasant diversion, and one that proved more straightforward than I had initially imagined.
 
B.E.
 

Thinking about Treenailing.
To do or not to do, I am drawn by the effect achieved by both Mike Y and MikeB4 on their Pinnace builds regardless of the work involved but I note that Chuck did not add this feature on his own Pinnace build, a question of scale perhaps?
The smallest drill that would make the job even worth considering would be a 0.5mm ø. but this equates to a tad under ½"dia at full scale or a circumference of just shy of 1½" which seems somewhat over-scale.
Below this drill size, the effect would not be apparent, and above perhaps too much, but having said that regardless of scale the two Mikes result is very appealing to my eye.
Using a 0.5mm drill I have added the treenail holes but because my Boxwood strip was only 0.7mm thick before sanding, and slightly narrower than the kit stuff, I was concerned that using toothpicks may split the already very fine planks.
I have therefore used a fine filler toned mix to represent the treenails which border on subtle approaching invisibility. They are apparent to the naked eye from certain angles and light which is good enough for me.

9814
Difficult to photograph but this close-up shows  the effect before cleaning up the hull.
I expect the effect to be more pronounced once the hull is varnished.
B.E.

Cheers Guys for you ongoing support, much appreciated.
 
Post 49


The Rigging Part Four


 
Rigging the jib

 
This is the last piece of rigging fitted to the model.
 

9427(2)
Before I start, I need to make two hooked tackle blocks and a Cranse iron.


9434(2)
The kit provided Cranse Iron suffers from the limitations of Photo etch, being flat in profile with the ring that takes the tack hook being in the wrong plane.

 
Three connections (cringles) secure and work the Jib sail. At the peak, for the Halyard, at the clue, for the sheets, and at the stay for the Tack.


 
The kit jib is fitted with a simple cringle at the peak for the Halyard attachment, whereas the Underhill plans show a jack yard attachment at the head of the sail. Again there is mention of the use of a Sister Hook to secure the halyard to the jack yard strop.


 
Too risky to start messing about with the sail, the possibility of fraying bolt ropes overrides the merit of adding this small detail.

 

9459
The halyard runs thro’ the upper half sheave at the Fore masthead.


 
I have used 0.30mm line for the Halyard, and 0.20mm line for the tackle falls


9461(2)
At its end there is a tackle (6”(3mm) blocks). The upper block is hooked to an eye in the Halyard, and the lower block is hooked to a bolt thro’ the stringer.


The halyard tackle is secured between the Fore yard halyard and the Burton pendent tackles.


9448
The tack is hooked to the Cranse iron to which both the outhaul and inhaul lines are also attached.

 

9449(2)
The outhaul runs thro’ the sheave in the Bowsprit end, thro’ the sheave set low down on the Starboard side stem, up thro’ the fairlead at the bow to belay inboard at a cleat.

The inhaul runs directly inboard to belay at the large cleat fixed to the skegs on the Port side.


 
The sheets (0.30mm line) are doubled thro’ the clew cringle and belay port and starboard at the kevels.

 

9443
Jib sheet to the Port side kevel.


9442
Jib sheet to the Starboard side kevel.


9454
I love the lines of these fast sleek boats.



9440(2)

9446(2)
All the rigging is now in place but will still need tweaking and the line ends properly belayed, that is the next task.

 
 
B.E.

18/12/20


 


 

Sizing the small Fore-deck made me scratch my head a little, it is relevant because it will govern the positions of the other thwarts and according to the plan should result in the fifth thwart sitting just over the forward edge of the aft platform.

9657
I notched my Foredeck to fit around the much reduced false keel at the bow which runs up to the stem, and extends just short of halfway between the second and third frames.

9658
The first of the Thwarts butts against this Foredeck.
For the Thwarts I used the provided Limewood, veneered with 0.7mm Boxwood strip and the overall thickness then reduced to size.

9661
I also made a spacer jig similar to that used by Mike4B in his build.
I would suggest that this is a useful item to ensure correct spacing of the Thwarts.

9665

9664

9663

9666
The Thwarts apart from the first one are not yet fixed, I will do that once the seat back has been installed and a little interior fettlin' is completed.
B.E.
 
 

Thank you Martin, Mike, and Bob, and for the 'likes'
For the Risers I have used the kit provided Limewood, basically because it is to be painted and will take the bends fairly easily to follow the sheer of the boat.
I had retained the bulkhead stiffening strips from earlier in the build and as these follow the sheer line, I pressed them into further service as a template for the Risers.

9567
Not too difficult to achieve the sheer curve using wet and heat, but there is a downward turn around the first two frames at the bow which is a little trickier to achieve.
According to the plan the top of the Risers are 8.5mm below the frame tops. I used a marked stick to check the levels as I fitted the risers.

9571
With one side fitted the second side was glued so far along the hull and temporary thwarts put into place so the level could be checked before the glue was completely set, so adjustment could be made if necessary, fortunately it wasn't.
Before painting I coated the Risers with sanding sealer to give a smoother surface and reduce the inevitable fuzziness of the Limewood.

9611
The frames below the Risers I varnished to take off the whiteness of the Limewood.
The small fore deck is also being fashioned, 8mm Boxwood strip is used for this.

9610

9606
I am thinking at present that I will leave the Foredeck and Thwarts in the natural Boxwood finish.
 
B.E.

So the process of cleaning up the hull progresses, any slight hairline gaps between the planks are painted with diluted pva, sprinkled with boxwood dust, and smoothed in followed by immediate cleaning off of the excess.
Had my planking skills been better all this of course would have been unnecessary.
One of the things that has been on my mind is toning in the Limewood keel and stem to match the Boxwood planking.

9034
Firstly these areas were fine sanded and coated with a sanding sealer, this will present a surface on which to paint a colour matched varnish to compliment the planking.
This is also an opportune time to remove the bracing strips that supported the bulkheads during the fairing process, and which provided an anchor for spring clips during planking.

8920
It was a fairly painless exercise to remove  the bulkhead centres, and all the frames held firm.
Chuck recommends using a needle file to cut thro' the bulkhead tabs but I have found a very fine etched scalpel saw does the job for me.

8918
These little saws come in very handy
https://www.air-craft.net/
https://www.air-craft.net/acatalog/Photo-Etched-Saw-Blades-Set-2.html#SID=77

9037

9039
The process of fining down the frames can now begin.
Not quite clear to me at the moment how to approach the thinning down of the first two frames at the Bow. The angles look far steeper on my build than appear in the kit instruction photo's (p9)

9052
I have also had to add interior strips of boxwood in the bow area as the planking was getting a little too thin in this area.

9051
Not too much of a problem in reality as the small Fore deck will cover this divergence from the shipwrights art.
So the build will progress, but without I have to say much enthusiasm at present.
Still off to North Yorkshire soon, and a break from the frustrations of this project. 
 
B.E.