jwvolz

Log #71: Raising the Boom
Next up is the boom.
 
I rigged the block for the boom topping lift in much the same way the other blocks seized to the mast head were done. The main difference is I used a 3.5mm block instead of the 3mm ones. I had wanted to use a 4mm one, but as I have previously discussed, when I went to buy them they were no longer available and so I had to settle for 3.5mm.

I also have been experimenting a bunch with the fake splices and I am slowly getting better at them, though at the same time they are slowly getting closer to a real splice.

According to steel the topping lift should be 4.5 inches cir, this works out to .57mm, but as I didn’t have any 0.6mm rope I instead used 0.5mm.

Counteracting the topping lift we have the sheet tackle. For this I used 0.45mm line copying BE’s arrangement.

For the sheet line I used 0.35mm line. Steel seems to indicate this should be 3 in cir which works out to 0.38 so close enough. I am still having a bit of trouble with the different names between the alert book, steel and the kit instructions, but as there are so many mistakes at this point I am mostly just making sure it makes logical sense and roughly corresponds to steel / the alert book.

And here is the current state of her. Now that all these counteracting lines are in place I need to tie them all off to get rid of the clutter. You can also see I am still working on the tackle for the boom topping lift as the block is spliced onto the line, but is waiting for the glue to dry before I cut off the ends.

Thanks to everyone who has stopped by for the encouragement, she is really starting to look like a sailing ship now.

Great work so far, especially all the metal work. I like what you did with the siene boat and the dory as well.
 
Mine is long finished but I never did complete my log, including finished pictures. maybe you've inspired me to do so...

Sometimes when you don't post for several weeks, it doesn't mean you were not working on your model. In my case, it was several weeks of mistakes and figuring out how to do things. I decided to scrap several plans of rigging the futtock and bentinck shrouds on my Conny. After doing lots of research and viewing the pictures from the above posts by GSGerson I decided to go a different way. My main plan was to rig as much as I could off the model. When you view the photos on the real Constitution, the area of rigging under the fighting tops looks like a big spiderweb. Then if you figure in all the seizings it just looked clunky. 
 
I made all the metal parts using 28 gauge black annealed wire. My main tool was my needle nose pliers The end of my pliers was the diameter of my ring. There was a little learning curve, but it all went well. I even tried to simulate the serving on these parts with line. But, it was beyond my pay grade. I feel this gave me a less cluttered look and it looks more realistic. The real trick was to get these parts made and make them look close to scale. Please realize I have some paint touch up on the rings and metal parts. 
 
This is part one of the subassembly 

I have been mulling around how to make and install the beatnik shrouds on my Conny. I want to rig as much as possible off the model to make it easier. So far I have made the staves for the lower fore and main mast and placed them on the rigging. Now to make the hooks and rings and then rig them. I know this is gong to be harder than it looks. 

I finished up the ratlines on the lower shrouds. I am glad this part is over. I learned a lot on rigging the ratlines. First, make sure you use long lines to make the knot trying easier. Second, I used my rigging card as a sort of backstop when I tied my ratline. Third, I used diluted white glue to set my knots. This worked out well for making adjustments. Just wet the line to unglue them, make your adjustment and then set the ratlines with the diluted white glue. Fourth, I alternated from port to starboard to keep the tension on the shrouds equal. Fifth, if you have some slack in the shrouds, just wet them with water and will tighten up a bit taking the slack out. Sixth, when you put your eyebolts on the channels for your shifters, pay attention to where they go. My mainmast swifter eyebolts were to close to the shrouds, My foremast and mizzen mast swifter's were at the proper distance. Seventh, I made sure my tweezers were sharp and easy to help tie my lines. Overall, I learned as I went along and I am sure the next section of shrouds will go easier. 

I am making some progress on my shroud and ratline rigging. To keep everything equal, I am tieing the ratlines on both sides as I progress up the foremast. There are lots and lots of knots. I think I am getting a system with the clove hitch. The tweezers really help out a lot. One thing I found is that it is better to have a long line of thread to tie the knots. The short thread seems mohave mind go its own and goes where ever It wants. I usually go about five rows of ratlines and then double check them with my card and then set the knots with diluted white glue. (Elmer's). I also use just water with brush to help take some slack out of the lines. That is why I am doing both sides of the shrouds to make sure I don't get too much tension on the masts. So are it seems to be working. 

I managed to get the foremast shrouds served and installed over the masthead. I'm pretty pleased with how they came out. In retrospect, I may remove and install each one as I go and turn in the deadeyes, so I can snug them down neatly and tightly on top of each other. 
 
 

Hull Construction Complete
 
Just about a year since the beginning and the hull is ready for finishing.  All hull construction is complete.  
 
A major milestone.  What a learning process to say the least.
 
Looking forward to finishing the hull.

Merry Christmas!
 

This is not a post about the Byrnes Saw, I'll just sum that up by saying there is no saw but the Byrnes saw. It's also not about the Byrnes Disc Sander or Thickness Sander which I also own and are equally outstanding.
 
This is instead about Jim and Donna Byrnes and the level of customer service they provide in support of their amazing products. It's nothing short of OUTSTANDING!  I've had my saw for about 15 years and never had a problem until recently and likely one that I caused and not the quality of the design. Donna usually answers the phone because Jim is building things, I explained my problem to her, she said she'd have Jim call me back, which he did later that day. After some trial and error attempts per Jim's guidance he said "We'll send you a new arbor and an email on how to change it." Three days later I had the new arbor and installed it (after first admiring the piece, the milling is pure artistry) using his clear instruction. However another small problem resulted, by a few thousands of an inch the blade guard on the top of the table was rubbing the blade (after conferring further with Jim I had properly installed the arbor correctly). "Donna will send you a new blade cover." I'm sure he milled a special one that accounted for the few thousands because when I got it, again three days later, it was a perfect fit.
 
I've had other interactions with Jim and Donna over the years, always pleasant, always informative and helpful.  This incident though was above and beyond - total, thorough, and complete support for a product I purchased over 15 years ago as though I'd bought it yesterday.  No mail the unit in and we'll see what we can do, instead here's the part and how to install it. Who does that these days, what small business takes that level of pride and support in the products they produce over a decade after they sold it to you. 
 
Just Amazing!
 

Got the forecastle capping rail trim molding installed. This is something not even called out for in the instructions, however it is there in the AOTS book. This is a narrower molding than the sheer rail, so I ripped a 1x4mm piece of boxwood lengthwise to about 2.5mm wide, and carefully scribed the recess into that. This one I painted black, which is how it appears on the AOTS cover, though it is so small it is hard to tell. The finishing piece on the end was done with a 4mm strip laid on an angle an cut oversized, and finally trimmed to shape and scribed in place. Railing were all touched up and given a final coat of paint, and the quarterdeck timberheads were installed and painted. 
 
Pretty happy with how the trim work came out. 

I have gotten a lot done since the last update...
 
The topside planking is now complete and the treenails are finished as well. I also have completed the stern fascia and counter, including scribing the vents. Finally the waterline was marked and the bottom airbrushed, starting with a gray primer, followed by white and then finally Polly Scale Aged White, which has a nice "tallow look" to it. 
 
Now on to the quarterdeck. 

Some more...

GRANADO IS FINISHED !!!!! 
 
After 13 months and two days, she is complete. I do still have to make a permanent mounting and case at some point. It is a bit of a bittersweet moment, with things wrapping up, but I am very pleased with how she looks. A big thank you to Timmo for the inspiration and ideas I "borrowed" from his Granando build log, as well as everyone else who looked in, "liked" commented or made a suggestion along the way. Thank you!
 
On to the pictures. I'll put them in the gallery soon. 
 
 

RIGGING
IS
COMPLETE!
 
Finished today as I became an old guy, 50th birthday...
 
Really coming down the home stretch now. Only the swivel guns and anchors remain, and a few odds and ends here and there. I'm likely going to do some flags as well. 
 
 

COMPLETED!
 
Hope you like her. On sale very soon  
 

I'll do this update in 3 or 4 parts due to the number of photos showing the deck and bulwark fittings being added.
 
Here we go!
 
Most of these are self-explanatory, but let's take a look. First, as I've processed the pics, I've realised I didn't resize the coppering pics. I'll add those at the end (out of sequence).
 
In this photo, the rudder tiller has been added and the small deck section, plus the bread hatch.
 

 
 
 
The ironwork is now fitted. This is one of the most time-consuming parts of fitting out. A nicer smattering of these around both the bulwarks and deck.

 
 
 
And now the shot garlands.


 
 
 
Followed by cleats.

 
 
 
Al those belaying racks need pins. These are PE, painted black and slotted into the racks. A little brushed varnish secures them.

 
 
 
The garlands are now furnished with 1.5mm balls, again, glued into place with a brush of varnish.

 
 
 
The catheads are a multipart assembly that allows for engravings on all faces. Very simple to build and these just slot though the bulwark holes with minimum effort.

 
 
The pre-made fittings can now be added, starting with the skylight.

 
 
 
The the grates/coamings, ladder etc.



 
 
 
Capstan now present....



 
 
More in a moment....

Just a quick update before I soon hit the copper.
 
Te hull is now more or less painted. A few touch-ups here and there, and there will be a flat coat afterwards. I added the sheen simply because it's less likely to mark when handling the hull. All paints here are from the forthcoming Grecian paint set.

 
 
 
The first task is to paint the outside band in off-white. This was left a while to cure before then masking it to add the black.

 
 
 
Once the hull was painted black, more judicious masking was done so the inner bulwarks could be painted. For this, I mixed about 95% green and 5% black.

 
 
 
The upper edge of the green was then masked and black paint carefully added to the upper section of the bulwark.

 
 
 
The finished paint job looks like this. Notice that I had masked off the slots for the channels, and also the inner bulwark positions for the various rails.

 
 
Off to cut a few more copper tiles!
 
 

Painting time today. Used the recommended trash can as per the Kevin technique to spray the admiralty yellow on.
 
After a few coats and some sanding, I found not quite thick enough to cover well but was a good base.
 
 
So finished the main areas with a brush
 
Still a bit of sanding here and there.

Hi All,
 
Latest updates, just added the Bulwark patterns.  Many thanks for the likes and the encouraging comments, next stage the deck and inner Bulwark sides.

Thanks very much, Sal.
 
"Finished" Fife Rail:
 

 

Big milestone today, second planking complete (well apart from a few sessions of sanding!)
 
Overall happy with the way it came out but still glad this is going to be painted as my woodworking skills; especially at the Stem & stern still need improvement.  Paying much more attention to lining off the hull and splitting the hull into bands to plank did help in the long run.  Initially frustrating at times, having to bend and shape planks, then re-bend then trial fit again, this process seemed to fall into a rhythm I could follow by the end. A couple of planks went wrong, but (one split under the pins/clamps which I didn't notice and another I shaped too narrow, again not noticing until it was dry.)  as I said, all okay as its all going under paint soon! - Phew...
Additionally I paid no attention whatsoever to grading of the strips, so I ended up with nearly all the dark ones on one side, which would have looked bad if left unpainted.
 
So next update will be the sanding, filling, primer & painting stages.  Thanks again for the likes and following along.

Wow, those gunnades are a thing of beauty. 

Got the anchors hung today. I had built them a while back so this was relatively quick work. Now just the swivel guns. I did order some cloth flags from BECC Model Accessories in the UK, so they'll get installed when they arrive. 
 
Meanwhile, no updates for the next 8 days. My two sons, my father in law and I are off to Ireland for a week of some nice rainy, windy links golf! 
 



 
 

Topmasts have been shipped and and all of the ratlines and back-stays are now complete, as well as the topmast stays and the crow's feet. I now have to make new topmast caps, I seem to have lost the kit supplied ones...
 
 

Lower ratlines are complete. I don't mind doing them, and I do get into a bit of a rhythm as I go, but I'm just a bit slow with the process...