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steamschooner

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Everything posted by steamschooner

  1. steamschooner
    Nils, Are you using safety glass for you case? Do you prefer glass over say plastic? Do you build in some sort of venting for the case to breathe. Someday I will need to build some cases to keep the eightlegged riggers from adding additional lines.
  2. steamschooner
    http://sanctuaries.noaa.gov/news/press/2016/lost-whaling-fleet-found.html No pictures but interesting.
  3. steamschooner
    jbshan: Yes now days three lights are required. The time frame of 1900-1930 there were only two mast lights ( see photo at the begining of my log ). The laws did not change until later, the Cudahy(now the Henry Foss ) likely had three when she was lost in 1952
  4. steamschooner
    Yes, thank you Mark, and a great New Year to you and yours.
  5. steamschooner
    I posted this in another area as well. I am working on some of the deck gear/fittings and this is one of the puzzles that has come up. photo shows the forward side of one side of the H bit with what looks like a pawl mounted on the right. Than just below and to the right is a warping head ( looks like it has whelps ) The other stuff is part of the steam gear that was also on the fordeck. That's another project in itself. This is what I think I might be looking at. Any thoughts , ideas ,
  6. steamschooner
    Patrick, I am just catching up on your project, it's looking really great. Have a Merry Christmas and best wishes for a hew year.
  7. steamschooner
    Spent a little time in the shipyard and got a couple of things done. First is the anchor davit, which I will need to blacken or paint. I turned my masts, painted them and installed a couple of mast lights that I had made for this build.
  8. steamschooner
    Nils, What a stunning project your "Pegasus" turned out to be. Thanks for letting us tag along.
  9. steamschooner
    Thanks for the comments everyone. Bob, The one I use is one that was built for automotive work. A friend built it for building his hotrods. In the "Ship Modelers Shop notes" there is a small roller shown with notes on how to build it.
  10. steamschooner
    I have been jumping around on my project getting little things done. The last couple of days it has been some metal work . Made and installed a stem strap with a shackle at the top, and both port and starboard mast stay straps. Had to pierce the caprail to do that and was worried I would mess something up. I make my straps from mild steel wire that I run though a bead roller to flatten it out. I use copper wire and brass wire the same way. Depending on how many times you past it though you can get an assortment of thickness and width. For pinning the straps I use some railroad spikes I got at a hobby store once. They are small dia. nails with a off set flat head. I file the heads to more or less a round shape and cut to length before starting them in a pilot hole. And I got the doors on the pilot house
  11. steamschooner
    It is nice to have detailed plans to follow. Your build is coming along nicely Bob.
  12. steamschooner
    John and Bob Thanks for checkin things out.
  13. steamschooner
    Thanks Patrick , I am glad it's behind me as well. Now maybe I can get some things done on my project.
  14. steamschooner
    Thanks Nils, It's nice to make some progress.
  15. steamschooner
    Well after dealing with walking pneumonia for the last three weeks I have gotten a little bit done on the pilot house. After a few tries I got a roof I liked, others were to big or to thick, Also made crown molding for the lip on the roof. Made and installed window sill below cabin windows. Working on cabin doors which I will mount in the open position.
  16. steamschooner
    Nils, There is a steep learning curve. So I am learning every time I make a mold and do a cast. Most of the time it works out and some times not! I do enjoy the challenge.
  17. steamschooner
    Nils, I agree with the rest of this bunch your model is looking just great...
  18. steamschooner
    Wow, Bob From frame to fully planked in about 10 days? But it is a small scale so the planks are also small. What did you use to plank her with... Bass?
  19. steamschooner
    Bob, I think I will pull up a stool and watch as well. Guys just don't get upset if I get popcorn all over.
  20. steamschooner
    Thanks Nils, I am happy with the cast iron look, now to add all the shiney stuff
  21. steamschooner
    Mark, Thanks I will try that the next time I post pictures. David B, Thanks for stopping by
  22. steamschooner
    After getting a good cast for the steam engine block I cleaned it up a bit. Flattening the top and bottom sides and filing away flash from the mold i had what you see in the middle picture Third picture is of the engine block after it was sand blasted to give it a cast iron look. First picture is of the engine block after treating it with india ink They did not show up in the order I loaded them but you can see the different steps I've taken.
  23. steamschooner
    Nils , Looks like we share the same "B" day have a great day.. Following your build and love what you are doing keep up the great work.
  24. steamschooner
    Bob, I use a product from Castaldo which is a vulcanizing rubber for the molds. The metal is a low temp alloy called cerrocast ,no lead, tin and bismuth mix. Whats nice about it is that parts that do not turn out right can be put back in the melt pot and reused. I am still learning things every time I cast.
  25. steamschooner
    Well after several tries and some errors I managed to get a good cast with the steam engine block. Still needs to be cleaned up some more. I than like to sand blast the parts to get that cast iron look . Parts will then be coated with black india ink.

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