Chuck Seiler

Based on Model Shipways plans Scale: 1/48 ¼”=1’ Circa: August-October 1776 Caveat. I start this build log with the understanding that I am better at building than I am at documenting…and I’m not all that good at building. As such, there may be large gaps in coverage. I actually started the model in the spring of 2013 so I would have a project to work on at the County Fair in June. After the Fair, I worked in dribs and drabs until I decided (got strong armed by our Guildmaster) it would be great to enter into the Fair in 2014. Some work got done without photographic documentation. So now you know. Background. I have been interested in the colonial gunboat PHILADELPHIA for many years. Having grown up in the Philadelphia area, I was interested in the Revolutionary War. I knew of the battle of Valcour Island, but it was more of a ‘backwater (literally) engagement’ (needs work). It is was more of a footnote to me than anything else. I really became interested in the model and the battle when I saw the in-progress model of PHILADELPHIA by Dave Yotter (Ship Modelers Association/SDSMG). He was building from scratch using the 20+ page set of plans from the Smithsonian. He even cast his own guns. Dave’s model is three times larger than mine will be. When Model Expo announced they were coming out with a model of PHILADELPHIA, I knew I had to build it. I saw that it was in 1/24 scale, which is a bit too large for my work/display area, so I decided to scratch build it in 1/48 scale (1/4”=1’). I would have preferred to build in 3/16” scale, the scale I have used for colonial ships LEXINGTON and SULTANA, but it was a bit too small. The ¼” scale is perfect, however, because it is the same as fellow SDSMG member Mike Lonnecker’s HMS FLY from the same era. Hey Mike, my ship might be smaller than yours but my guns are bigger!!!! Take that!!!

I use a method very much described by Russ by using strips (1/2" to 1") of thin wood run lengthwise. This allows the false deck conform to both camber and sheer curves with no buckling. I have used both thin (model aircraft birch) plywood and basswood. If the size of the model requires you to reduce something in order to achieve the proper thickness, I choose to sand down the bulkhead a little rather than make he planking thinner. This gives you a more stable base for planking. The thicker deck helps when securing deck furniture, eyebolts, etc.

I have found boxwood harder and potentially more brittle than basswood. When bending, I would recommend soaking it a little-10-20 minutes depending on thickness. Not too much because it may washout color. It sands well and finishes well. When using basswood, I usually use a sanding sealer to keep the surface from fuzzing up. Boxwood does not require that. Be sure to use dust mask when sawing and sanding. While we should avoid inhaling ALL sawdust, I find boxwood dust (like most exotic hardwoods) causes temporary respiratory issues. Chuck

Floyd, With regard to length of rod: pick a length that will lift your model off the base a distance which makes the model look good. I would think 4 to 6 inches, depending on the base. Experiment.

Floyd, I think you will be very happy with the result if you go with the boxwood planking. If you look, you can see I started building the kit and posted a build log. I stalled when I was unhappy with some of the results and decided to try again using a kit one of the folks from our group build bought, but did not start. I plan to start again using the lessons learned in these various build logs. The long boat built was not a waste! I use it when our Model Guild does show and tell sessions at the county fair. I let people handle it and get a close look...even kids. They are amazed that it is so light and delicate, but apparently quite strong. The boxwood lends to that.

...and while we are on the subject, don't forget the safety glasses.

Bob, Looking good. I'll see you Tuesday.

Clare, Looking good!!! I know what you mean when you say you thought the kit was just okay, until you started to work on it. It certainly provides some challenges that, once mastered (or in my case semi mastered) improve your modeling skills in general. Chuck PS. How is that newsletter coming?

Mast foot?

If I recall correctly, as of the noon log VICTORY was only doing 1.5 to 2 knots...and that was with the wind almost directly astern. The FRENCH/SPANISH fleet, with a much worse aspect to the wind, had to be doing a fraction of that. As we know, a huge storm hit shortly after the battle. The long, deep rolling swells that preceeded the storm wer ehitting the BRITISH form astern and the FRENCH/SPANISH from abeam. Good times were had by all.

Spanish news blimp gets a picture of HMS VICTORY as it cuts the line.

It is now 12:45, 21 October 1805, twelve miles off the coast of Cape Trafalgar...and you are there.

Bogey, I believe that is the method used by the folks in the Southern Hemisphere.

I think Grolz has an unstarted kit he is trying to get rid of. Hey!!! What do you mean you are in Japan? Who is going to run the meeting Wednesday?

ouch

Sounds reasonable to me. Now that I think about it, how much time would be spent under oar vice under sail? I would think most of the work would be done under oar. The sail would be used for long distance point a to b. Probably not a lot of maneuvering required.

We talked about this at length at one of our community build meetings. While the contemporary model may have had it, we wondered at the actual functionality of it. I can see, while coming about in a stiff wind, Helmsman Hewitt goes over the side after being hit by the boom while trying to bejigger the tiller bar. I sailed in small boats (a little) many years ago. I would have found it a problem trying to remove or shift the tiller bar/handle at the same time I was trying to tack or come about. Of course back then I found it a problem coming about and not getting hit by the boom WITHOUT worrying about the tiller bar. Perhaps some better small boat sailers/sailors than I can opine. I just know Bob's not going to win many America's Cup races with that rig.

Bob, It appears that you are running your horse under the tiller bar, per the original instructions. Is that correct? ("Correct" that you are running it that way, not "correct" right versus wrong).

I have used black India Ink on both Swiss Pear and Holly to simulate Ebony.

Gulfmedic1, I use TransTint which I get from Rockler. A Google search reveals other retail locations as well...even Amazon. Pricey...2oz goes for about $20 but a little goes a long way. See the reds I ended up with on my 18th Century Longboat build log. I'm not big on bright reds on a period model.

Bob, Looking good!! I'm feeling guilty about languishing on mine. ....although I think I will start anew with the one I got from Brian, incorporating lessons learned. I will then use the old one for a 'hand to the audience to look at' demo at the Fair. It was pretty popular last year. Once I get this cyber inspection at work out of the way (and deal with this newsletter that somebody dumped in my lap), I will be off and running with the Longboat and the Philly.

I have one just like that. Got it at Harbor Frieght for very reasonable. Great tool.

I hope to get a look at those bad boys Wednesday.

This is a great model. It makes a great display piece with much less effort than it's wooden counterpart. As pointed out, it is by no means easy. I made one many years ago, before I got into wooden ship building. I had it proudly displayed (without a case) until one of my cockatiels landed in the rigging and brought the whole thing crashing down. :-( ...but I digress. If I were going to make it today, I would consider planking the deck, making wooden mast and yards, or reinforcing the existing plastic masts and yards, and using after market wooden blocks/deadeyes....and getting a case. Chuck

I was going to question the MS Armed Virginia Sloop as a first model, however I recall a couple folks I know made that as their first model and it turned out rather well. I think in both cases they used Bob Hunt's practicum to help the build. It is a dandy model (and can be easily based to become Blackbeard's ADVENTURE....arrggghhh matey!!) Chuck