Chuck Seiler

Steve, Absolutely, ask away. Keep in mind this is scratch, not kit, so some of the process will be different. For reasons to be outlined in a future post, I will probably build/start a build log on the PHILADELPHIA kit myself, so I will be more familiar with the actual kit build. My plan is to substitute boxwood for most of the basswood planking and 'stuff'. I also plan on 'correcting' some of the issues I found. --If you check out the Smithsonian link I posted earlier, you will see the virtual 3D Philadelphia. It indicates that the bulkhead behind the forward platform is either non-existent or not a full bulkhead and that there is access under the platform. I plan to model that in there. --In the kit/plans it appears the bailing well/bailing pit has four walls. It makes sense that the well would have free access to the whole bilge so water in the ship could be removed. It seems that all or some of some of those would be gone. Again, I polan to model those. One thing you should start thinking about up front...how do you plan on displaying the model. As I was completing the model and was getting ready to mount it, I found I did not have anything to anchor the pedistals to...so a big gob o' glue is holding them in. Start a build log and i will come over. I suspect some of my followers will come as well. I believe Kurt Van Dahm, who is doing the Ships in Scale build checks us out from time to time. Maybe he will check yours out as well.

That's why he gets the big bucks. When is the featherboard coming out?

I see that it has two 3" drums. Could it handle a wider piece of wood if you used the same grit sandpaper on both drums?

Okay Per, now you did it. I'm going to have to get one of THOSE too. <sigh>

Mick, You will not be disappointed.

I tend towards the Dremel. I have several. While one is corded, I find myself using the cordless 770 (7.2 volts) most of the time. One recommendation if going Dremel...get rid of the collets and get a micro chuck.

Bob, Looking really good! That oughta get you at least Honorable Mench at the Fair next year. Now that you have fleshed it out a bit, perhaps you could go into detail about the open stern area. Also, what are your plans for finishing? will it be natural or will it have some colouration?

I am seeing alot of people using wipe on poly. Can you stain once you have applied it or do you have to stain beofre you apply. Obviously you can paint over top of the poly wipe.

Is that HMS THUNDERER I see? Ooops. Can't be. Has a US flag.

Wow, indeed!!!!

Don, Welcome to the fray. My gunboat PHILADELPHIA is in the water and Mike's (Mike 41) Row Galley WASHINGTON is fitting out at Ft. Ticonderoga.

Bob, Thankee.

Rusty, Thanks. That is about what my current build looks like; wale = 1/16 over base and black = 1/32 over base. I am a bit concerned with working with the 1/32" stuff. My other option is to go full thickness: 3/32". My opinion on that is it will be TOO thick to porperly bend. I guess that's why they made experimentation.

What is the URL for Clare's website?

Rumor has it that you were soliciting Fair go-ers to find Japanese speaking/reading folks to help with the instructions. How have you been able to cope with the Japanese-only instructions? Any recommendations for somebody considering this kit?

Rusty, What thickness above existing planking will you be doing for the wales? Will you be doing a blackstrake? If so, what thickness above existing planking? Chuck S.

Kurt, I don't know how far along you are. If you get a chance, take a gander at the rigging plan. Does the location of the top yard lift blocks look right to you? I think when I get my PHILLY back, I will move that up the mast another 1/4" or so. Bob, Kurt was going for the "under the water for 150 years" weathering. :-) Chuck

This kit category is a tough crowd. Slack off a couple days and you slip to page 4. Bob, I have it on good authority that you had a good 8 hours of build time Saturday. Let's see some updated pictures of that balsa wood pirate ship. Chuck

Bart, I have added it to my list of things to do if I ever get back east again. I am glad that I have had an opportunity, along with other PHILLY builders, to bring this little known part of American history to people's awareness. Chuck

I agree with Mike Y. It is very fixable.

I remember SOB. Signs northbound all the way from Florida and Southbound from Virginia.

Bob, Your CONSTITUTION feels forsaken and unloved. First the longboat, now Woody Joe. I look forward to your progress.

JS, I just came upon your log. I am planning on building the Hunt bashed MS Rattlesnake in the near future. I will review your build log in great detail and will refer to it often.

Dave must be one of the Manitowoc promoters. He is trying to get me to come from San Diego,

Allan, Thanks. I had forgotten about that. I used India Ink for the wale on my SULTANA. I think I diluted it slightly with alcohol to help penetrate. On SULTANA, I had experimented with both black and variations of red. I tried several different methods (diluting vs not diluting, etc) that I forgot what I did. :-( Since I will install the wale and black strake before I plank anything else, I can paint or ink without fear of it bleeding over. Also, since I will be experimenting with planking (real vs haphazard) I am thinking about trying the painting method of multiple coats of diluted acrylic. Decisions, decisions. Perhaps one method on one side and one on the other. Or one on the side and one one the transom. I better stop before the moderators move this to the PAINTING folder. ;-)