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Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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Jim Byrnes Model Machines
Chuck Seiler replied to Mahuna's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I see that it has two 3" drums. Could it handle a wider piece of wood if you used the same grit sandpaper on both drums? -
Jim Byrnes Model Machines
Chuck Seiler replied to Mahuna's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Okay Per, now you did it. I'm going to have to get one of THOSE too. <sigh> -
Jim Byrnes Model Machines
Chuck Seiler replied to Mahuna's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Mick, You will not be disappointed. -
I tend towards the Dremel. I have several. While one is corded, I find myself using the cordless 770 (7.2 volts) most of the time. One recommendation if going Dremel...get rid of the collets and get a micro chuck.
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Bob, Looking really good! That oughta get you at least Honorable Mench at the Fair next year. Now that you have fleshed it out a bit, perhaps you could go into detail about the open stern area. Also, what are your plans for finishing? will it be natural or will it have some colouration?
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I am seeing alot of people using wipe on poly. Can you stain once you have applied it or do you have to stain beofre you apply. Obviously you can paint over top of the poly wipe.
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Is that HMS THUNDERER I see? Ooops. Can't be. Has a US flag.
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Harbor Freight Workbench
Chuck Seiler replied to Landlubber Mike's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Wow, indeed!!!! -
Don, Welcome to the fray. My gunboat PHILADELPHIA is in the water and Mike's (Mike 41) Row Galley WASHINGTON is fitting out at Ft. Ticonderoga.
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Bob, Thankee.
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Rusty, Thanks. That is about what my current build looks like; wale = 1/16 over base and black = 1/32 over base. I am a bit concerned with working with the 1/32" stuff. My other option is to go full thickness: 3/32". My opinion on that is it will be TOO thick to porperly bend. I guess that's why they made experimentation.
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What is the URL for Clare's website?
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Rumor has it that you were soliciting Fair go-ers to find Japanese speaking/reading folks to help with the instructions. How have you been able to cope with the Japanese-only instructions? Any recommendations for somebody considering this kit?
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Rusty, What thickness above existing planking will you be doing for the wales? Will you be doing a blackstrake? If so, what thickness above existing planking? Chuck S.
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Kurt, I don't know how far along you are. If you get a chance, take a gander at the rigging plan. Does the location of the top yard lift blocks look right to you? I think when I get my PHILLY back, I will move that up the mast another 1/4" or so. Bob, Kurt was going for the "under the water for 150 years" weathering. :-) Chuck
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This kit category is a tough crowd. Slack off a couple days and you slip to page 4. Bob, I have it on good authority that you had a good 8 hours of build time Saturday. Let's see some updated pictures of that balsa wood pirate ship. Chuck
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Bart, I have added it to my list of things to do if I ever get back east again. I am glad that I have had an opportunity, along with other PHILLY builders, to bring this little known part of American history to people's awareness. Chuck
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I agree with Mike Y. It is very fixable.
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I remember SOB. Signs northbound all the way from Florida and Southbound from Virginia.
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Bob, Your CONSTITUTION feels forsaken and unloved. First the longboat, now Woody Joe. I look forward to your progress.
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JS, I just came upon your log. I am planning on building the Hunt bashed MS Rattlesnake in the near future. I will review your build log in great detail and will refer to it often.
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Dave must be one of the Manitowoc promoters. He is trying to get me to come from San Diego,
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Black Strake
Chuck Seiler replied to Chuck Seiler's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Allan, Thanks. I had forgotten about that. I used India Ink for the wale on my SULTANA. I think I diluted it slightly with alcohol to help penetrate. On SULTANA, I had experimented with both black and variations of red. I tried several different methods (diluting vs not diluting, etc) that I forgot what I did. :-( Since I will install the wale and black strake before I plank anything else, I can paint or ink without fear of it bleeding over. Also, since I will be experimenting with planking (real vs haphazard) I am thinking about trying the painting method of multiple coats of diluted acrylic. Decisions, decisions. Perhaps one method on one side and one on the other. Or one on the side and one one the transom. I better stop before the moderators move this to the PAINTING folder. ;-) -
Thanks Pete. You arrived just in time for closing. Actually, some time after July 4th I will get the model back from the County Fair and will install: Sweeps rack, sweeps, folded awning, add 3 more swivel guns, add a few more rope coils (can never have too many rope coils). I am debating whether or not to add barrels, crates, etc.
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Black Strake
Chuck Seiler replied to Chuck Seiler's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I agree. For the most part I don't paint much...mostly natural wood or stain. I would prefer to plank the wale and black strake in ebony. I have some that I will try out, but have found it hard to work with. Barring that, the wale will be painted. I have noted Chuck's (and others) method of multiple coats of thin acrylic paint and really like the result.
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