Chuck Seiler
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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler
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When I made the Pavel Nikitin "JOHN SMITH SHALLOP", I replaced the line with after market line. Two GREAT sources are SYREN SHIPMODEL COMPANY and ROPES OF SCALE. Both are MSW sponsors. ROS offers synthetic and cotton line while SYREN only has synthetic. Both are good.
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Never use rungs, steps, ratlines or horizontals on boarding nets as handholds. Its a good way to get your hand stepped on. -
Gap on flat bottom
Chuck Seiler replied to WGibson's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Riverboat hulls are really pretty basic...a flat bottom barge with alot of stuff on it. -
Gap on flat bottom
Chuck Seiler replied to WGibson's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Is what we are looking at the underside pf the hull or the main deck? Either way, I would sand the frame to the planking and plan the sides accordingly. If underside of hull, the sides could be slightly tapered inward. Ditto deck...It appears too small to notice. I build the steamer FAR WEST a few (hundred) years ago. I don't recall any waterways on a riverboat. -
Call me a heretic, but I liked the Alexander Kent/Bolitho novels better than Patrick Obrien/Aubrey. Welcome to the club. Good luck!!!!
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Good luck dragging a fully masted model thru the Fair.
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I dunno, the new Guildmeister is pretty adamant about having entries.
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Is that going to be ready in time for The Fair?
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I second Chris' comments about starting small AND checking out other "first timer" build logs. There are alot of good vendors out there, large companies and small operators. Check out the build logs to see what they say about quality of instructions and quality of material. I would recommend a kit that has some rigging and some planking (double plank on bulkhead) to get a feel for what you need to learn. Also recommended -pick something that interests you AND has numerous build logs to assist you. I know that doesn't answer your specific question, but I hope it helps. ALSO: Alcohol is your friend...to unglue the errors you made. AND You can never have too many clamps.
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That surprises me, although I never got anything smaller than 1/16". There might be a limit down to which they can work. It wouldn't hurt to ask. What wood?
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IIRC, Nelson had his ships paint the masts below the tops yellow prior to Trafalgar so the could be distinguished from the French/Spanish in the smoke of battle. Not sure if he did this at other times or if the tradition was carried forward. I don't believe Pegasus was at Trafalgar.
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I would be reluctant to use oak in planking that small. The grain is quite coarse. I have been told beech is 'scale oak'. It is tight grained and easy to work with. I get beech from OCOOCH HARDWOOD. That having been said, if you are dead set on using oak and Modelers Sawmill cannot get it, Ocooch probably can.
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Square away that rudder mate! 🤣
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I do as well. It works great for my older corded Dremel but my newer non-corded has a smaller circumference and does dot fit. I asked Larry if he makes an adapter. He does not. 😒
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Sometimes. That is what my Dremel is for.
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I agree with Mark and Gregory...look into the NRG Planking Tutorial. It is much more than a "Read this or watch that" tutorial. It involves actually planking a half hull. I know that doesn't answer your original question...but it actually does. "Using planking (shipbuilding) methods they originally used" is complicated and not completely replicatable on a plank on bulkhead model. The tutorial teaches you about spiling,tapering, cheaters and spacers (and maybe edge bending) so your planking comes out right. Some start with the wale and work up and down. I like Mastini's recommendo about starting a half plank below deck level. It allows the next plank up to overlap (strength) and give space for waterways, etc.
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Here is one I like alot. It handles the really small micro bits and is VERY comfortable in the hand. I got it from a local hobby shop (model train) but it is also available online.
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Excellent work on the carlings and ledges. Practicing on the covered side is like practicing on the first layer of a double planked hull-your mistakes will not show.
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I had similar results with my hold, but for different reasons. Test staining of structural pieces (frames) proved less than satisfactory. I ended up using wood dye (brown in the lower areas and a mix of brown and golden yellow above deck). The brown was darker than I wanted but the brown/golden yellow got me close to what I wanted. I went with B/GY on the deck beams. My planking stain will be Golden Pecan rather than Golden Oak. At the end of the day, the 'rustic' lower deck may work out well. The various colored barrels give the cargo and lower deck a well used look. ...although if you are looking for pristine, that may not be what you want. Why did you go with Miniwax Poly BEFORE you stained? It seemed to me that would inhibit penetration.
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I will second the motion on walnut being too coarse-grainy and dark. I also find it too brittle. I love cherry for frames/bulkheads and some furniture, but not consistent for planking. For a model I hope to be a quality piece, I like boxwood for hull planking. works wee, sands well, staims well. A bit pricey these days, but... Another favourite is Alaskan Yellow Cedar. Not as hard as box. A little harder than basswood, but works and finishes well (IMO).
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I did too. I was just wondering if somebody had come up with a way to 'lay to rest' my old models.
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I was curious about the hull planting.
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Eyesplice or cow hitch on the ends. Clove hitch on all others.
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