Chuck Seiler

Spanish news blimp gets a picture of HMS VICTORY as it cuts the line.

It is now 12:45, 21 October 1805, twelve miles off the coast of Cape Trafalgar...and you are there.

Bogey, I believe that is the method used by the folks in the Southern Hemisphere.

I think Grolz has an unstarted kit he is trying to get rid of. Hey!!! What do you mean you are in Japan? Who is going to run the meeting Wednesday?

ouch

Sounds reasonable to me. Now that I think about it, how much time would be spent under oar vice under sail? I would think most of the work would be done under oar. The sail would be used for long distance point a to b. Probably not a lot of maneuvering required.

We talked about this at length at one of our community build meetings. While the contemporary model may have had it, we wondered at the actual functionality of it. I can see, while coming about in a stiff wind, Helmsman Hewitt goes over the side after being hit by the boom while trying to bejigger the tiller bar. I sailed in small boats (a little) many years ago. I would have found it a problem trying to remove or shift the tiller bar/handle at the same time I was trying to tack or come about. Of course back then I found it a problem coming about and not getting hit by the boom WITHOUT worrying about the tiller bar. Perhaps some better small boat sailers/sailors than I can opine. I just know Bob's not going to win many America's Cup races with that rig.

Bob, It appears that you are running your horse under the tiller bar, per the original instructions. Is that correct? ("Correct" that you are running it that way, not "correct" right versus wrong).

I have used black India Ink on both Swiss Pear and Holly to simulate Ebony.

Gulfmedic1, I use TransTint which I get from Rockler. A Google search reveals other retail locations as well...even Amazon. Pricey...2oz goes for about $20 but a little goes a long way. See the reds I ended up with on my 18th Century Longboat build log. I'm not big on bright reds on a period model.

Bob, Looking good!! I'm feeling guilty about languishing on mine. ....although I think I will start anew with the one I got from Brian, incorporating lessons learned. I will then use the old one for a 'hand to the audience to look at' demo at the Fair. It was pretty popular last year. Once I get this cyber inspection at work out of the way (and deal with this newsletter that somebody dumped in my lap), I will be off and running with the Longboat and the Philly.

I have one just like that. Got it at Harbor Frieght for very reasonable. Great tool.

I hope to get a look at those bad boys Wednesday.

This is a great model. It makes a great display piece with much less effort than it's wooden counterpart. As pointed out, it is by no means easy. I made one many years ago, before I got into wooden ship building. I had it proudly displayed (without a case) until one of my cockatiels landed in the rigging and brought the whole thing crashing down. :-( ...but I digress. If I were going to make it today, I would consider planking the deck, making wooden mast and yards, or reinforcing the existing plastic masts and yards, and using after market wooden blocks/deadeyes....and getting a case. Chuck

I was going to question the MS Armed Virginia Sloop as a first model, however I recall a couple folks I know made that as their first model and it turned out rather well. I think in both cases they used Bob Hunt's practicum to help the build. It is a dandy model (and can be easily based to become Blackbeard's ADVENTURE....arrggghhh matey!!) Chuck

Oh, I meant to include...If I could purchase a coil or two of the grey so I could test coloration and work into my PHILADELPHIA (still about a month from rigging) that would be great. Could you make some without having to go full production? CHuck

Chuck I am probably a bad source for rigging interest, since once I get to the rigging stage...progress slows to a crawl. Like Frank, I like a black with a brown tint, to simulate old pine tar. I have used black rigging dipped in sepia ink and natural linen dipped in black india ink, then sepia ink. I like the look, but am not sure how long it will last. Brown waterbased wood dye intrigues me. Back on topic. The dark grey looks interesting but I would like to see its effect as rigging on a model rather than coiled up. Chuck

Good luck Richard!

Richard, I would start off saying that the Longboat is NOT a good kit to start with. It looks easy, but is actually complex. (Planking issues). Randy is correct that Midwest makes good starter kits. They are relatively simple and give a good opportunity to learn about planking and how the lines of the ship/boat come together. If you want soemthing a little more complex, I recommend Model Shipways SULTANA. It give you a nice model, a sailing ship versus a small boat and provides alot of 'learning opportunities'. Much depends on your skill level and own wants. There are many good starter kits. It should meet the following checks in the box: 1. Expendable. 50/50 chance you will end up crapping it up beyond all hope of recovery and will have to trash it. A good model on sale helps there. Wood is a great medium. It allows you to make mistakes and recover by tearing apart and redoing. ...on the other hand, sometimes you cannot undo the banana shape your modl has become. 2. Simple plank on frame or solid. Both have their pros and cons. Each gives an opportunity to have a relatively stable form which you can get a handle on how a hull curves, etc. Both give you an opportunity to plank (solid hulls can be planked). 3. Not too much frill and pieces-parts. After you have learned how to build a model you can play around with 100 guns and 100 gunports and 200 pieces of deck furniture. No need on the starter. How to build a windlass, a grating and a few other items is enough. 4. Simple/basic rigging. The CONSTITUTION and SULTANA use the same rigging principles. Learning about blocks and belaying lines and stuff follows the same principle as above. A little is great at first. Once you get that first model under your belt (and you are hooked on the hobby for all eternity) you can take on the big beasties that take time. People who take on big projects too early have a tendancy to quite them and the hobby over frustration. Tools: Dremel, exacto knife, clamps-lotsa clamps, basic wood glue, sand paper....nothing exotic. (but exotic helps :-) as time goes by). Chuck

Juan, The reason for 2-3-2 or 7-10-7 is geometry, specifically triangles. A squared + B squared = C squared. In the above diagram you want to shave off the corners (A and so that the remaining side © is equal to D. (2x2)+(2x2)= 4+4=8 D=3 so 3x3=9 Close (7x7) + (7x7) = 49 + 49 = 98 10 x 10 = 100 closer Then there are hexes. :-|

Birch plywood is used by model airplane (R/C) builders. It is light and strong. I can get the really thin stuff (less than 1/16th") at the local hobby shop. For bulkheads I prefer 1/8"...which I can get at Michael's.

I thought about using a very thin piece of Evergreen plastic (same as the width you used, square) as the under friese molding...but I got the evil eye from Mike Lonnecker and chickened out.

I am not sure if price/cost is an issue. I can get either modeling plywood (1/8") or basswood for reasonable price at Michael's. The warping and strength, however are my major issues. I use (usually 1/8") modeling birch plywood for my bulkheads (frames versus walls) and have had no problems with delaminating. Strength is a particular issue when dealing with the thin upright stantions for the bulwarks, such as on SYREN, I never sand my stantions down to the desired width until the outer planking is in place, but even still there are breakage issues with basswood (see '18th Centrury Longboat breakaway stem piece').

John, It's a small step from kit building to kit bashing and just a little stroll from there to scratch building. You may not be ready to scratch build another VICTORY in a few years, but perhaps a schooner. Some day the scratch bug will get ya. I couldn't do it without my trusty Byrnes Saw, but other than that, my exotic equipment include a dremel and an exacto knife. I look forward to your build log. Chuck

John, If I understand you correctly, you want to get strip wood 24", 30", whatever, and then cut them into individual smaller planks around 5" or so. Is that right? Obviously the final length of the plank will be dictated by the bulkhead or frame location, but at least 1 plank per strake will probably be shorter than your ideal plank length. This will be due to: 1. Not every strake will be an even multiple of your ideal plank length. 2. Staggering of butt joints will result in a short plank in the bow, or stern, or both. Chuck