Chuck Seiler

Have a look at the advertisers on the front page.  Many of them do sell wooden deadeyes.

both 1/8 and 3/32 deadeyes 85 % dust i would like to replace with pewter but so far i have only found wood

Vasco da Gama - first round the Cape of Good hope to India in 1497-1499. So yes, these spices came the traditional way - over land and through several middle men.
 
Gribshunden was a royal carrack, as far as they've been able to make out. She was the king's flagship. But nomenclature varies - as far as I'm aware, what we call a carrack was referred to in Scandinavia as a Kravell (from caravel). Here's her dragon (griffin-hound, actually) figurehead being retrieved from the Baltic:
 

 
Steven

Do we know what kind of ship it was?  Hulk, caravel, carrack?
 
    1495 was only three years after Columbus "discovered" America, but managed to NOT find a route to the Indies (where many of these spices came from).  I don't recall if the Portuguese had established a route around Africa by then, or not.  I don't think so.  As a result, all trade from the spice areas was dominated by the Arabs/Muslims and subject to significant price hikes.  The king and extremely wealthy were likely the only ones to afford them.

Looking good Jerry. 
 
Be careful not to sand down too much or else it may throw off the alignment.  I noticed that with the frame jig the charring was in ridges.  I think if you lightly sand the charring to where the ridges are smooth but you still have some color...AND...smoothing the frame faces, you will get a snug (but not too snug) fit.
 
Little at a time.  You can always take more off.  Harder to put more back on.

Looking good Jerry. 
 
Be careful not to sand down too much or else it may throw off the alignment.  I noticed that with the frame jig the charring was in ridges.  I think if you lightly sand the charring to where the ridges are smooth but you still have some color...AND...smoothing the frame faces, you will get a snug (but not too snug) fit.
 
Little at a time.  You can always take more off.  Harder to put more back on.

Looking good Jerry. 
 
Be careful not to sand down too much or else it may throw off the alignment.  I noticed that with the frame jig the charring was in ridges.  I think if you lightly sand the charring to where the ridges are smooth but you still have some color...AND...smoothing the frame faces, you will get a snug (but not too snug) fit.
 
Little at a time.  You can always take more off.  Harder to put more back on.

Jerry's parts have arrived or should be arriving shortly, based on timing of previous shipping.  I look forward to the  shipyard restarting production.
 
I wanted to take this opportunity to ask a question about real construction.  Based on building practice of the day, would the frames have been bolted together or treenailed?

The replacement parts are looking good. 
 
there will be a bunch of thickness sanding to do. 
The clearances are tight. I noticed it on the jig and now I’m seeing it on the frames To the jig. 

Yes, I only just finished the first few frames but the fit is tight. I guess it's a good idea to widen the clearances so that the frames can slide in and out easily. Otherwise removing the completed skeleton without breaking something might become a real challenge.

Knowing that I am easily distracted, I attempted to make it semi-foolproof.  On a piece of paper I made a side diagram of two frames.  I marked one bow and one stern, so I would remember orientation.  Then I marked :face up" or "face down".  As I said, for me this is only critical at the ends.  The middle frames will be left unbeveled until I get them into the frame.
 
    I them marked next to the end 3 or 4 frame slots on the jig "Face up" or "Face down".  We'll see how that works out.

Ok, I’m back on track!

Chuck, I can confirm this. I started with frame 21, and 21L goes into the right side of the jig, and 21R into the left side, with the floor futtock on top. So I first thought, R and L refer to starboard and port side of the ship, not the left or right side of the jig's slot.  But now as I read your post I checked and can clearly see that part 19 breaks this rule, as L and R are switched compared to 20 and 21.
 
The drawings in the instructions clearly don't help much either... Obviously the pieces are marked inconsistently.
 
Confusing. I guess the only way to deal with this is to always keep in mind how the frame parts are to be oriented towards the stern or the bow in the boat, which decides the direction of the fairing, and then place the L and R frames into the jig accordingly.
 
Frank

Hi, Lee.
 
I think some additional information would be useful:
 
What kit is this?
Can you provide pictures of the area in question? (I suspect you may be referring to filler blocks.)
Where are you located?
 
If this is the Model Shipways kit, and you simply misreported the scale, you might have a two-fold problem. The first is that Model Shipways kit instructions often assume a certain amount of prior experience on the part of the builder, i.e. they will say "do this" but not tell you how to do it. The second potential problem is one you've already hinted at, namely that wooden models are not like plastic models. It's quite possible that you have simply bitten off more model than you can chew, in which case taking a break to build a less demanding model might be a wise option.
 
Cheers!

I have the 'John Smith SHALLOP".  It appears to be a good representation based on the reproduction in the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum.  I have ordered, but not yet received, the Oseberg Drakker.  The laser etchings on the bow and stern look superb.  So far, I am happy with the quality of the SHALLOP.  The instructions are a bit light on verbiage, but oherwise complete.  Email responses from "Pavel" have been quick (although so far I have only dealt with Denis...not Pavel).
 
    As noted above, shipping is pricey.  Another issue is that it takes a long time to get the package,  It took over a week for them to send the package and several weeks to arrive.  Part of this is due to the war.  IIRC, this is a small operation so they only crank out a few kits at a time.  It is even slower when bombs are dropping around you and knocking out your electricity.  Also, it is my understanding that there is no commercial air currently in Ukraine, so everything has to go by ground until it gets to a place with air.

I have the 'John Smith SHALLOP".  It appears to be a good representation based on the reproduction in the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum.  I have ordered, but not yet received, the Oseberg Drakker.  The laser etchings on the bow and stern look superb.  So far, I am happy with the quality of the SHALLOP.  The instructions are a bit light on verbiage, but oherwise complete.  Email responses from "Pavel" have been quick (although so far I have only dealt with Denis...not Pavel).
 
    As noted above, shipping is pricey.  Another issue is that it takes a long time to get the package,  It took over a week for them to send the package and several weeks to arrive.  Part of this is due to the war.  IIRC, this is a small operation so they only crank out a few kits at a time.  It is even slower when bombs are dropping around you and knocking out your electricity.  Also, it is my understanding that there is no commercial air currently in Ukraine, so everything has to go by ground until it gets to a place with air.

I have the 'John Smith SHALLOP".  It appears to be a good representation based on the reproduction in the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum.  I have ordered, but not yet received, the Oseberg Drakker.  The laser etchings on the bow and stern look superb.  So far, I am happy with the quality of the SHALLOP.  The instructions are a bit light on verbiage, but oherwise complete.  Email responses from "Pavel" have been quick (although so far I have only dealt with Denis...not Pavel).
 
    As noted above, shipping is pricey.  Another issue is that it takes a long time to get the package,  It took over a week for them to send the package and several weeks to arrive.  Part of this is due to the war.  IIRC, this is a small operation so they only crank out a few kits at a time.  It is even slower when bombs are dropping around you and knocking out your electricity.  Also, it is my understanding that there is no commercial air currently in Ukraine, so everything has to go by ground until it gets to a place with air.

I have the 'John Smith SHALLOP".  It appears to be a good representation based on the reproduction in the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum.  I have ordered, but not yet received, the Oseberg Drakker.  The laser etchings on the bow and stern look superb.  So far, I am happy with the quality of the SHALLOP.  The instructions are a bit light on verbiage, but oherwise complete.  Email responses from "Pavel" have been quick (although so far I have only dealt with Denis...not Pavel).
 
    As noted above, shipping is pricey.  Another issue is that it takes a long time to get the package,  It took over a week for them to send the package and several weeks to arrive.  Part of this is due to the war.  IIRC, this is a small operation so they only crank out a few kits at a time.  It is even slower when bombs are dropping around you and knocking out your electricity.  Also, it is my understanding that there is no commercial air currently in Ukraine, so everything has to go by ground until it gets to a place with air.

I have the 'John Smith SHALLOP".  It appears to be a good representation based on the reproduction in the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum.  I have ordered, but not yet received, the Oseberg Drakker.  The laser etchings on the bow and stern look superb.  So far, I am happy with the quality of the SHALLOP.  The instructions are a bit light on verbiage, but oherwise complete.  Email responses from "Pavel" have been quick (although so far I have only dealt with Denis...not Pavel).
 
    As noted above, shipping is pricey.  Another issue is that it takes a long time to get the package,  It took over a week for them to send the package and several weeks to arrive.  Part of this is due to the war.  IIRC, this is a small operation so they only crank out a few kits at a time.  It is even slower when bombs are dropping around you and knocking out your electricity.  Also, it is my understanding that there is no commercial air currently in Ukraine, so everything has to go by ground until it gets to a place with air.

Does anyone have experience with Pavel Models? I am thinking about buying one.

The micro drill bits Mark is talking about run from size 60 (largest) to 80 (smallest).  I tend to mostly use 72 and 76, which (coincidentally) are the years I graduated from high school and college.  I normally work in 1/64 or 1/72 (or there abouts) and they work well for me for eyebolts and such.
 
    I get mine on Amazon.

Dave, I usually fit the margin plank first, how I form it depends on the severity of the bow curve.
I then plank from the centre outwards and as I reach the margins I cut the joggling into the margin using a fine micro chisel.
The waterway I add  once the decking is complete, and then cut the scuppers into it.
 
At 1:64 scale and smaller I tend to scribe a false scarf joint in the margins.
 
B.E.

After reading several threads on the above subject, I am still unsure how to proceed. Some modellers are gluing the waterway into position and then joggling the deck planks to fit and using a sharp knife to shape the waterway to suit the planks. Others are not gluing the waterway into position so unsure what would work best. My question is this, can you still start laying planks from the centre of the deck and work outwards or will this cause issues with the thickness of the planks being different thicknesses or will you have the smae problems starting at the waterway and working inwards.  Another question I have is regarding the margin plank/waterway itself and is it easier to shape this from several pieces scarfed together rather than trying to bend a plank edgeways. I appreciate there are different scarfing joints for this purpose but if there  is a less complicated joint than the hook method or is this applicable to 18th centuary. 
              I have thought about doing this for a while now, but each time I get closer to starting  out the the deck planking , I end up just doing the deck planks without an edging plank/waterway.

Here is another set of visual references to consider. These photos are of the 2014 recreation of the French frigate Hermione, available on the the ship's website: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_frigate_Hermione_(2014)
 
With the first two photos, the holes for fastening the hull planking are quite evident at this stage of the ship's construction. The second of these two photos shows some of the holes filled with what are presumably lag bolts (some with washers). I'm surmising that these very visible holes were finally "capped" with wooden plugs and as such, the execution is a thoroughly modern invention/solution; in the earlier Age of Sail, these fastening holes would be filled with treenails (and plugs) made from wood - regardless of the ship's country of origin (as mentioned earlier in this thread). 
 
The second set of photos of the completed ship show nearly the entire vessel painted and thus, no immediately visible indications of how any of the superstructure was held together.
I have not been on deck of this ship so I don't know how the deck fastening was handled; presumably, it was done with "treenailing" but not necessarily with the same methods employed in the 17th century.
 
Indicating this level of detail with one's model is a matter of choice first, and second  - if even depicted - should be reasonably scale-accurate. I've seen some models of the era where the hulls appear to have the "measles"- clearly an unnecessary visual distraction (too much of a contrast in wood coloration); the same holds for deck planking. At smaller scales for most ship modelers (@ 1/72 or smaller), I would not recommend trying to simulate these details, whether hull or deck. Attempting to create realistic fidelity can result in wholly unnecessary distraction. In 1:48 and larger scales, it's a whole different ballgame.
 
My personal preference (at 1:64 scale) is to subtly indicate both these fastening conventions on the hull and deck when and where bare wood is exposed (sans paint).

 



 
 
 

The micro drill bits Mark is talking about run from size 60 (largest) to 80 (smallest).  I tend to mostly use 72 and 76, which (coincidentally) are the years I graduated from high school and college.  I normally work in 1/64 or 1/72 (or there abouts) and they work well for me for eyebolts and such.
 
    I get mine on Amazon.