Chuck Seiler

She is Ukrainian.  Her shirt says "Olha" and in her FAQ video she pronounces her name "OH-la".

She is Ukrainian.  Her shirt says "Olha" and in her FAQ video she pronounces her name "OH-la".

Chuck, good looking too, I hate her, or maybe I envy her, or ma,bye I love her. Regardless, I am impressed with her talent.
 
johnny, it’s a novel way to put these things together. It’s expected that you can figure out what’s depicted in the illustrations. With help from Chuck Seiler and others with common sense, and experience with the kit, it will be an easy and satisfying project. It’s a nice kit with good materials. I think you won’t be disappointed when you purchase the kit. U

She is Ukrainian.  Her shirt says "Olha" and in her FAQ video she pronounces her name "OH-la".

Jerry,
 
    I think you will find that the skeleton will be surprisingly stable once the frames are inserted into the jig and glued to the keel, the keelson is added and the gunwales and clamps are added.  Delicate, but stable.

Jerry,
 
    I think you will find that the skeleton will be surprisingly stable once the frames are inserted into the jig and glued to the keel, the keelson is added and the gunwales and clamps are added.  Delicate, but stable.

Jerry,
 
    I think you will find that the skeleton will be surprisingly stable once the frames are inserted into the jig and glued to the keel, the keelson is added and the gunwales and clamps are added.  Delicate, but stable.

we’ll, I’ve got the full set of frames, the bow and stern frames are a little suspect. We’ll see when they are inserted into the jig. If I can get them in the jig, I’m hoping that the gunwale and the clamp will hold it all together until I can get some planking on that should hold it all together.

Hi Jerry,
 
Have a look at Olga's video, about 14:50 along - she shows the frame you are having problems with. I hope the link works. If it doesn't find the video via James' post on the shallop. 
 
 
Cheers

For the char, you can scrape it off with a blade held perpendicular to the surface. Its faster and removes less material.

When you start adding frames to the keel check that they seat down fully. I found the keel sat too low in the jig to allow this. I glued a 1mm strip to the jig (NOT to the keel) to raise the keel up slightly to allow frames to seat correctly.

Chuck, I will fair them as they are assembled. There will be an opportunity to adjust them after the construction is removed from the jig and placed on the former jig.

So, a little progress was made today.got a nice set of small files. Some of the ferrules are not well fastened. The files work well though. Next time I mix a up a batch of epoxy I’ll take care of that.got the keel glued up and fixed in the jig. There was a little adjustment needed for it to fit nicely.I got six of the frames worked up. 

Wouldn't it be better to fair the frames after assembly?  That way you can ensure an even fair where the futtocks overlap.

Wouldn't it be better to fair the frames after assembly?  That way you can ensure an even fair where the futtocks overlap.

Wouldn't it be better to fair the frames after assembly?  That way you can ensure an even fair where the futtocks overlap.

Thanks Matt. That helps, I thought the little chisel was a file for cleaning the char. It looks like they expect me to bevel the inside of the frames for the ceiling also.

the framing diagram shows you which way round the frames go. The little chisel in a circle symbol means you need to bevel the edges of the frames. on the frames closest to bow and stern you will see a line etched on the wood on one side.
You file each of the steps at an angle from the unmarked edge on one face down to the etched line on the opposite face. This creates the angle for the planks to flow correctly. Effectively your fairing the frames before you assemble them into the jig. The etched lines on the pieces need to face down from frames at one end ( frames 6-3) and face up for frames at other end frmaes 19-22).
From memory a couple of the frames have the L and R labelling transposed., s you need to fit the pieces the opposite way round to get the etched face facing the right way.

As to the possible size of the hull of this vessel, the closest evidence I can find comes from the Great Temple of Hera on the island of Samos. Herodotus referred to it as the greatest temple of his time in Greece and it is now ruined with only one column standing. It was likely founded in the 10th century bce and its major period of construction dates from the 8th century bce and hence in the geometric pottery period. The association of the temple with maritime activity is attested by the discovery of many small clay models of boats which I presume were votive. I cannot find any pictures of these boats. Also excavated were the full size bases of a two boats or ships found near the Great Temple.
 
modified from Google Earth image
Thanasis has kindly sent me a link to a treatise greek which contains pictures of the ship base and a good map which indicates two ship sized bases near each other.
The original for this picture is Kyrieleis, 1983, 1989
Edit: This picture is actually from Samothrace and probably is the base for a trireme ?

Wallinga in The Conway book The Age of the Galley refers to a measurement of this boat base  on Samos as 4 metres in width and 23 metres in length. This probably refers to a pentekontoros and, if so, the length would be consistent with a double banked version (much like the later liburnian)
 
Here are some reasonable deductions from the late Helladic Pottery, literary souces and archaeological evidence:
Length about 23 metres width about 4 metres no ram although a skid like projection of the keel(plank) is likely in order to ease beaching stem first a rockered keel(plank) a curved stern topped with an ornament (possibly an acanthus seed, in my opinion) a straight vertical or slightly forward tilted stem piece topped with a bird-like head ornament facing forward between 30 and 50 rowers rowing from either an upper or a lower bank of oars or both. Some protection of rowers from spray, wind or arrows by cow-hide strips stanchions connecting lower to upper banks of rowers probably a central partial deck level with upper bank of rowers for the warriors to gallumph along a stern platform for the steersman handling a single steering oar (double quarter rudders came later) a forward raised platform aft of the stem piece whence the Great Warrior could menace enemies with long lances. a single mast mid keel which could be quickly lowered and rested on a crutch (histodoke) a square or rectangular sail which could be brailed up. The boom-footed sails may still have been in use however) I will sketch up a concept which incorporates these elements
Dick

Thank you for educating us, Dick. I wonder wherher the ladder-like iconography represents internal thwarts or even frames?

Nick, try the phone. I recently spoke with Jim Byrnes' wife by phone.

There wasn't a user manual when Preac was in business.  If I remember correctly there was a single sheet of information.
I agree that a book on table saw use is good regardless of the size saw you have.  The Preac saw motor is under powered for hard use.  There is a motor upgrade available for $100 that provides every thing one needs to upgrade to the bigger motor.  I purchased it and it is good quality and overcomes the power issue.  However nothing can fix the maximum cut of 1/4 inch.  It has it's uses and I will never part with my Preac even though I have two Byrnes saws.

Hey ho!
 

You'll have to forgive me for not wanting to spend my hols tinkering with stuff in tech here  

While in the Navy, I got to see the underside of my destroyer while in drydock.  I think red primer would be a good color.  I know it is not acrylic, but....