Chuck Seiler

Is that the origin of "Doing a half fast job"? 😁 (Think about it.)

Me too! 
 
Otherwise it's just one more Viking ship  . . .
 
Steven

Some more progress. Putting in the mast partners. The mast is recycled from my dromon model and will need to be altered.
 

 
          
 
          
 
As nobody's ever found a mediaeval European mast , I really wasn't sure how the halyard worked, but I did find a photo of a Viking ship replica that used a sheave in the mast, so here I am making a sheave for the halyard.
 

 
Here's the mast before . . .
 

 
           
 
 
         
 
 
Here's the mast after. More to be done to make it right for the nef.
 

 
 
Planking of the foredeck.
 
         
 
Steven
 
 
 
 

Thanks for all the likes.
 
Christian, I'm basing the spacing of the frames on the Skuldelev 1 knorr, which was also clinker built. (Otherwise I could have saved myself a lot of work and trouble - I only decided to add the extra frames after I saw the photo below). It seems to me that every second frame only goes down as far as the turn of the bilge. I don't know if I will be doing this.
 

 
Steven

Thanks for the reply, Tony. I can fully understand the time constraints. I only really got serious progress on my modelling once I'd retired.
 
Pearl luggers are fascinating vessels (though strictly the West Australian ones should be called schooners or ketches, as they were gaff rigged). Unless it's been removed, there's an old lugger at the Maritime Museum in Fremantle. I'm looking forward to seeing what you decide to build once you get the time.
 
In the meantime, here's the latest progress on the nef.
 
Deck beams for the after deck.
 
   
 
Side beams for the hold opening
 

 

 
Adding intermediate frames between the existing ones. Firstly the bits that show above deck level.
 

 

 
 
 

 
I will probably add intermediate floor timbers as well, at least in the hold, as I intend to have the hold partly exposed (a couple of removable deck planks removed) to show some cargo. Not sure if I'll carry the intermediate floor timbers all the way through the hull, as most of them will be hidden by the decks.
 
Steven
 
 

Retired Naval Aviator and apprentice model boat builder here.
 
Currently building a Dumas kit of the Lightning Sail Boat, which I’ve had on a closet shelf since 2007, the year I retired, when I thought I'd pick up the hobby while my dad was still around and could lend his expertise, but life — and death got in the way.
 
I built many a model airplane as a kid and a few ship models, mostly of the plastic variety. My father, on the other hand, was a master model ship builder — in my view anyway. He built wood ship models for as long as I can remember. Always the complex and intricate. With his binocular loop on tying rigging he looked like a surgeon in theater.
 
On the other hand my love is sailboats, so the Lightning was a good starting point for me. However, I found the Dumas kit instructions lacking so I began a search online for more detailed information which led me to MSW, and in particular to Andrew J’s built log of the Lightning. I’ve learned a lot from that build log and all the great pics Andrew posted of Lightning #1. Andrew’s finished model is a work of art and an aspiration for this neophyte modeler.
 
My build is currently at the hull painting stage with subassembly construction underway on the rudder and cockpit furniture, (attempting to make slat flooring and seating). A lot more difficult  cutting curves at scale than I thought.
 
At some point I should attempt to put up a build log. In the meantime I will continue to enjoy the craftsmanship and camaraderie on display here at the MSW forum.
 
Cheers to all.

More framing - and the last through beam and beam clamps made.
 

 

 
Got the final through-beam in place and the beam clamps glued in.
 

 

 

 

 
Steven

I've been working on the mast step. Here's my first attempt. The longitudinal groove is for the keel to fit into.
 

 
And the crosswise slots are for the frames. Note that some of them are wider than others, due to inaccurate transferring of frame locations from the ship to the mast step, and one in particular I seem to have just got completely wrong.
 

 
Shaping and putting in the socket for the mast tenon.
 

 
And in place. Not terribly bad, but really it just wasn't good enough. Somehow I got the whole thing wrong so the socket for the mast was way off centre. I may have got the whole thing turned backwards, so the fore end was aft - that's the only explanation I can think of. 
 

 

 
And looking back at the cog's mast step which I was using for a model, I realised that the mast step body wasn't supposed to go all the way down to the planking - it was just to be supported on the frames, with fairly shallow grooves cut in the underneath (see the reconstruction drawing in my previous post). Where I'd gone wrong was not to print the diagram off, and just rely on memory. Bad idea.
 
So, here's version 2.

 

 
 
Much better.
 

 

 
Moving right along, I've made the next through-beam and glued it in place. 
 

 

 
Next I have to make all the rest of the frames and put them in place, then add the beam clamp and the crossbeams to mirror the ones at the other end.
 
Coming along.
 
Steven

Thanks Brian.  I've been following his build and others.   I think I"ve got it sorted out and have started the first layer of planking.  It'll be awhile before I really have anything to show.

I’m returning to ship model building after an 18 year maternity leave.  I’ve just bought Heller’s 1/150 Le Superbe, but now I’m a little worried …. Just a little but I rigged a plastic kit ship of the line about 20 years ago so I should recall enough.  My intention is to build a ship over a year or more, no rush.  
 
That said, I may buy a small, inexpensive plastic kit to practice on first.  Like this http://www.hobbylinc.com/airfix-hms-bark-endeavour-sailing-shipcaptain-cook-plastic-model-ship-kit-1:120-50047

More framing.
 

 
And for those of you who may be interested in how I'm making the frames to insert in the planking, here's an example of a partly made pair of floor timbers, showing how I carve the "blank" to fit in place. The I'll cut along the pencil line to finish shaping the frames.
 

 
I'm getting into researching the mast step and the windlass.
 
The windlass will be based on those of the Bremen cog and the Ijsselcog, and that of the Kalmar ship from the mid-13th century (referenced in an earlier post), which is very similar. It'll have to be shorter than those of the cogs - unlike them, there just isn't room for one that long in a ship with pointy ends like the nef.
 

 
I'll be basing the mast step on that of the Ijsselcog, as being closest in time to the nef. Here it is (pictures from the Ijsselcog archaeological report referenced above)
 

 

 
And here's mine just getting started. Right side up
 

 
And upside down - the slots are for the frames.
 

 
As I originally built the frames with a crossbeam near the bottom as in knarrs, I'm having to cut several of them off to accommodate the mast step which is different from those of Viking ships.
 
      
 

 
I've still got a bit of tidying up to do to make it all smick and merge the cut-off bits into the shape of the frames.
 
One last thing. I'd been lamenting that I didn't have any wood with a forked grain (as you get at a branch), suitable for the frames of the bow and stern and the breast hooks. I realised I was wrong. The yellow(ish) ones are from an apricot tree in the garden which went to meet its maker. Still needs time to season. The three at top right are old seasoned walnut from the guy next door's dead tree which he let me have the timber from.
 

 
Nice to have this.
 
Steven
 
 
 
 
 
 

More framing.
 
Here's where she was at the end of the last post.
 

 
Framing for the foredeck done and now adding beam clamps.
 
 
 

 
And glue dried - slightly wonky beam clamp because it's recycled from what was going to be a frame.
 

 
And adding the deck beams for the foredeck, level with the through-beam nearest the bow.
 

 
And about here I realised I was going to hit problems - I'm getting short of walnut sheet that's the right thickness. Plenty of stuff suitable for planking, but not for framing. So I got out some European plane wood that was left over from the dromon build. Not exactly the same look, but in places where it's not going to be visible it's ok - and anyway, the difference isn't all that obvious. The middle of the three frames in the photo below is plane wood - the others are walnut.
 
I'll be using plane wood for such things as deck beams and floor timbers where they are hidden by decks. I'll try to keep all the upper futtocks in walnut because they're visible at the top ends.
 

 
Adding the breast hook.
 

 

 
All the deck beams added for the bow half. Note that two beams seem to be missing, but that's where the hold is - it will have a catwalk each side and removeable floorboards above the hold, each spanning over the gap between the deckbeams. 
 
And a nice view from the stern.
 

 
Steven

Hello Blair.  Welcome to Model Ship World.  
 
    I think you will find the CHAPERONE to be an interesting and challenging build, but not overwhelming.  I built the Missouri River steamboat FAR WEST as my first scratch build many years ago.  All the joys of model ship building without the pesky rigging. 

 
    Looking forward to your build log.

Hi Blair, and welcome to MSW.
 
Judging by the jalopy it looks like your layout is just the right time for the Chaperone - she was in use until she was burnt in 1922, so she sounds like just the vessel for your railroad. 
 
A river steamer is on my own wish-list, but as an Aussie I'd be doing an Australian one (they're quite different from the American ones). But it's very much on the back burner - I've got so many models I want to make, I doubt I'll get all of them done this lifetime.
 
Yes, start a build log. You'll find it very worthwhile - the members here are very friendly and helpful.
 
Good to have you aboard.
 
Steven

Thank you everyone. I knew this would be a good website. I downloaded everyone’s pics. Cathead, I lived in MO for 30 years (STL) and still work there some times.  Here is a shot of one of my model scenes. I’m hot to get going but it will take a while to get the kit.

Hello Blair.  Welcome to Model Ship World.  
 
    I think you will find the CHAPERONE to be an interesting and challenging build, but not overwhelming.  I built the Missouri River steamboat FAR WEST as my first scratch build many years ago.  All the joys of model ship building without the pesky rigging. 

 
    Looking forward to your build log.

Hello Blair.  Welcome to Model Ship World.  
 
    I think you will find the CHAPERONE to be an interesting and challenging build, but not overwhelming.  I built the Missouri River steamboat FAR WEST as my first scratch build many years ago.  All the joys of model ship building without the pesky rigging. 

 
    Looking forward to your build log.

Hello Blair.  Welcome to Model Ship World.  
 
    I think you will find the CHAPERONE to be an interesting and challenging build, but not overwhelming.  I built the Missouri River steamboat FAR WEST as my first scratch build many years ago.  All the joys of model ship building without the pesky rigging. 

 
    Looking forward to your build log.

Hello Blair.  Welcome to Model Ship World.  
 
    I think you will find the CHAPERONE to be an interesting and challenging build, but not overwhelming.  I built the Missouri River steamboat FAR WEST as my first scratch build many years ago.  All the joys of model ship building without the pesky rigging. 

 
    Looking forward to your build log.

Hello Blair.  Welcome to Model Ship World.  
 
    I think you will find the CHAPERONE to be an interesting and challenging build, but not overwhelming.  I built the Missouri River steamboat FAR WEST as my first scratch build many years ago.  All the joys of model ship building without the pesky rigging. 

 
    Looking forward to your build log.

Hello Blair.  Welcome to Model Ship World.  
 
    I think you will find the CHAPERONE to be an interesting and challenging build, but not overwhelming.  I built the Missouri River steamboat FAR WEST as my first scratch build many years ago.  All the joys of model ship building without the pesky rigging. 

 
    Looking forward to your build log.

I'd agree with you, Mark, though there are certain things they all seem to have, such as those beautiful stem and sternposts, which I haven't seen in any other type of vessel, including Viking ships which are otherwise very similar. Some have "bowsprits", others don't, some have a single "castle" (always at the stern), others have two, some masts have a "top", others don't. And many pictures show some kind of leafy branch at one or both ends - no idea why. 
 
Another interesting thing is how the town seals have so many features in common - such as guys up on the yard unfurling the sail. 
 
Steven

Steve,
 
From looking at the various depictions of nefs, it seems each nef may have been 'one-off' making no two exactly alike.  
 
Great work on the model!  Keep it up!
 
Chief Mark
 

Well, between a busy month of August and a minor health issue for my dad, I was late in delivering his gift.
All is well and he finally received it over the weekend:

 
I caught him completely off guard! And he was very surprised!
That will conclude this build log!
 

Hi,my name is doug.i an from pa,ive buildt lots of plastic models this my foray into wooden ships. I am 47yrs old have a wife and 3 wonderfull kids.my plan is to start with model shipways dory and go from there will shiw pics when i can.ty everyone doug